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Routes in Central Coast for selected grade

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Showing all 37 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
14 M2
Wondabyne Wondabyne North
14 M2 Montage

Peg left under roof to corner. Nut up this then free up blank wall. Finish up 'Callous Crack'.

Start: 2m right of 'Callous Crack'

Trad 12m
14
Hominy
14 Jealousy

Balancy start. Avoid the left-hand flake in the cave finish. Lower off

FA: S. Negus & D. Forbes, 2009

Sport 9m
Umina Lake View
14 V for Varroa

The trench left of FF, at roof traverse right to anchors on FF

FA: David Gray, Vanessa Wills & flynn cooper

Trad 15m
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Dog Face
14 The Arena

The western face of the outcrop known as Dog Face, at the top of the hill above Wagstaffe General Store.

FFTRA Will Monks, Peter Monks, Dec 96.

FA: Will Monks & Peter Monks, 1996

Top rope 15m
Southern Cousin Limited Options Easy Access
14 Rumday Monday

Start 2m right of LPP.

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Jun 2018

FA: Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Cooper & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018

Sport 8m, 5
Southern Cousin Limited Options The Blocks Scramble Up
14 Recycled Curry

5m left of MSULA and a long way from Chante's curry!

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 31 May 2018

FA: Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Cooper & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018

Sport 7m, 5
Blackwall Offspring Wall
14 Grubby groove

Corner crack 8m left of RN.

FA: Gordon Porter & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 2000

Trad 6m
14 Backyard Blitz

8m further left up corner past black boy sticking out of the cliff.

FA: Gordon Porter & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1999

Mixed trad 12m, 2
14 Home improvements

Obvious crack 1.5m left of 'Shelve it'.

FA: Jackie & Grant Severn, 1999

Trad 10m
Blackwall Kit Kat Wall
14 Chocoholic

Start up corner at the right end of Kit Kat wall to ledge of cave, then left up slab to top. 2BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

FA: Anna, Rod Schneider, Richard Jeffrey & Jenny Mclaren, 1996

Sport 10m, 2
Joll's Bridge Lower cliffline
14 O

This and the following climbs start 10m off the ground on a large terrace at the base of a vertical wall of excellent rock. O starts on a ledge below R end of the Sports wall Scramble up gully and out R onto ledge below steep wall.

  1. 19m (14) Straight up wall to below roof, escape L, up and around R to belay on big ledge.

  2. 6m up small corner to top.

FFA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Kathy Merz, 1993

Trad 25m, 2
Wondabyne Wondabyne North
14 Native

Step up into crack, then delicately onto face and up pleasant flared chimney.

Start: 1m left of 3 sided gully below roof and face forming thin chimney.

FA: S. O'Brien, S. Hoy & P. Stallard, 1976

Trad 10m
14 Calm Before the Storm

Up undercut overhung groove to small cave. Traverse delicately left and up to tree and cave. Pull over roof directly above tree then up ramp to top.

Start: 8m right of Lillee's Luck.

FA: P. Stallard, 1977

Trad 21m
14 Rilly Billy

Obvious square corner high on wall. A good climb. Up face to ledge, traverse right 3m then up to corner. Up this to the top.

FA: M. Foster & P. Stallard, 1977

Trad 23m
Wondabyne Wondabyne Mainline
14 Suzy

Up gully (Beginner's Climb) for 5m then step right and follow the finger crack, still "partially vegetated " after 40 years. Excellent wires in crack. Tree belay 4m back.

FA: P. Stallard, S. Hoy & S. O'Brien, 1976

Trad 12m
14 Mightor

Line of scoops 5m right of 'Plaster Cast Crack'. Up to roof then hand traverse left to join 'Plaster Cast Crack'. Protection looks dubious.

FA: P. Stallard, 1976

Trad 12m
Woy Woy Phegans Bay
14 Wet 'n' Wild

An obvious large, dirty and often wet crack. Bring a range of friends and some absorbent cloth.

FA: Gordon Porter, Jeff Connelly, Grant Severn & Richard Jeffrey, 1999

Trad 12m
14 Middle of the Knife

Start as for Knife Edge, but follow the vertical seam up, then straight up to top out. Carrots for anchors.

FA: Sean Gallagher, 28 Jan 2023

Trad 8m
14 Roundabout

Up high corner about 20m left of MC, then break out left onto wall and up slab above.

FA: Phil Stallard & Steve Moss, 1978

Trad 8m
14 I don’t know

20m right of 'O'. 2 BRs and 1 RB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 4m, 3
14 Sandy Stuff

Start over to the right of the wall, up to the horizontal seam, then traverse left to exit up the crack as Flakey Stuff.

FA: Lee Ogley, Jan 2023

Trad 8m
Koolewong Lara Street Crag
14 Spiders silk

Undercut start onto slab right of blunt arête to share single U-bolt anchor with 'Charlottes web'

Sport 10m, 3
14 Charlottes web

The blunt arête right of chimney up three carrots to single U-bolt on top.

Sport 9m, 3
Tascott Tascott Cave Lower Cliff
14 Access Crack
Unknown 4m
Tascott Tascott Cave Elevated Grey Walls
14 Piece Of Cake

Up and trend right to double ring bolt anchors in the roof.

Trad 8m
14 R
Wondabyne Wondabyne North
14 R Branches of the Almighty

Obvious clean corner in centre of cliffline. A great climb. Straight up the corner. Unless you have tube chocks, the last gear is at about half height, which puts you on a 15m ground fall through the crux (a rounded, insecure layback right near the top).

FA: P. Stallard & S. Hoy, 1976

Trad 23m
V0-
Umina The Cape
V0- The Cape

At the very left hand end of the wall is a low obvious, in cut jug in front of the black boy. Start here and move directly up through the seams.

Boulder
Umina The Brown Room Brownroom proper
V0- Easy Cheese

All the good holds to mantle. Approx. 4-5m right of low hanging roof. Sit start.

FA: TD, 1999

Boulder 3m
Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Bouldering Toblerone Block
V0- Frankenstump

The right side of the top arête. Not exactly 'Frankenstein' at the Fear Factory.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Odyssey Block
V0- Odyssey

Fun for the kids Climb the slabby arete. Worth doing

Start: Standing

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Boulder 4m
Woy Woy Road House Press Man Boulder
V0- Rise

Sit start at R/H end along the pocketed break. Straight up. The easiest of the easy.

Start: Sit

FA: dan, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House The Alien
V0- Space Pod

An easy climb up the side face of the alien boulder.

Start: sit start in the middle of boulder on the side facing the break down lane.

FA: dan, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Whale Boulder
V0- Bobble

Just right of scale the whale on the little face slab. Climb from standing start up the lumpy feature

Start: 1m right of arete

FA: dan, 2000

Boulder
Woy Woy Road House Break Down Lane Right
V0- Nothing of Interest

Climb the easy blocky slab. Also the descent here

Start: Left of 'Hidden Agenda'

FA: Dan, 2000

Boulder 3m
Koolewong Lara Street Crag
V0- Kalani

Opposite the trackside boulder and 6m left of the twin cracks is a blunt arête, just past a ledge that is half way up the wall. This climbs the left side of the blunt arête

Boulder 3m
Point Clare Little Asia Moon Boulder
V0- Bamboo Cutter

The left most line on this boulder stand start and topping out.

Boulder 3m
Apex boulders Spectators
V0- Bracken

Sit start to slopy top out

Boulder 3m

Showing all 37 routes.

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