Routes in Central Coast for selected grade

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, then onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.

The black streak 2 metres left of arete. Straight up for 2 or 3 bolts then diagonally left to double ring bolt anchor. Sustained and good fun

1st climb done at this area. Out massive holds towards the big pockets and finish on the the last big jug.

The route left of the corner chimney. Hard start to move right up scoops to ledge then off ledge to anchors. Be wary of wasps that sometimes nest in the scoops. Monty can be top roped from the anchors if you don't have trad gear.usually dry in rain.

This route is located in-between HIL and BJ and heads straight up. Stick clipping the first clip is recommended as the holds right bellow are often damp. Extend draws number 3 & 4; 7 & 8. Classic!

Start where there is a step up in the cliff through overlap. Go direct ( snakes inhabit pockets to left) through roof then traverse left to quick links.

Climb out to the jugs via the easiest method. Finish on the obvious deep break as for "Whats Golden" or you can traverse the break off to the right for a little extra

Start: Sit start in the little cave on the right hand wall.

As for 'Texas', up 3 bolts to ledge, then traverse right 2 metres, clip RB then very cruxy move, up through roof and step right to anchors. All RBs. If you are in trouble at the crux a bolt plate on an old carrot and a spare draw will let you aid

2m right of M. 4 BRs and mid sized friends.

Climb out left from the small cave and over. Some good holds above make for an easy top out

Start: Sit start on the left of the small cave

A few metres left of Golden Shower is a diagonal ramp. Follow this trending R and then traverse further R to a short corner. Up the rings to rap anchor. Retro ring bolted 2014.

Mixed gear - hex bolts and a couple of cams. Has not been retro-bolted. Yet another gem that does not let up till you haul through the final bulge. Start 3m L of King Kong. Boulder up past friend to bolt runner, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this to overhang and friend #2 placement. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

One of the last boulders when walking north, clearly visible up on the left. Sitstart to some great moves on juggy pockets to a classic mantle.

Video link https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZEaNkTJ4u5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Locate the big blob on the left side of the low cave. Follow the holds out left to the jugs outside the cave.

This is a slightly harder variant of 'Knob Jock' if you do not use the big ramp for your feet to start.

Starts 15m L of the corner at the right end of the slabs. The short open book corner with a u bolt at 3m.

1. 15m (21) Up the short crack and onto slab. Belay at the tree below the arete. 17, 19, or 21 depending on height!

2. 15m (20) From tree head up 1m right of arete on flakes. You can belay from the cave or continue thru to the top. Anchors are on top and require long slings, easy to collect on walk out. 30m to ground.

2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start.

Start: 3m L of Ring Leader. Trends R up the weakness L of RL with a funky move to get to the anchors. Looks easy with some fun at the end. Easy tick for the grade.

Starts at the far left of the top cave. Lean out and grab the ledge then traverse for 3 bolts and head straight up to anchors. Tree start has largely disappeared.

Sit/crouch start with L/H on undercling and R/H on incut sloper. Hard first move into sloped edge on the right then make your way left to top out around the left side of the feature.

From inside the cave near broken drill bit up steeply then out onto face to shared anchors with route to right

Traverse left from Easy Cheese staying low and finish up low hanging roof arete. Sit start.

8m left of BB, start off low block & veer slightly right to finish back on the left side of the prominent overhanging block. Looks like this has been retro-bolted.

Starts 2m L of BD. The first of two climbs with 3 ring bolts, that share a common finish up the smooth slab to a Double Bolt Belay.

1.5m L of BF. The little corner then the same as for BF.

On right hand side of the same bloc as The Aquarius.

Low start on small crimps. Climb up and left using good edges until you make the arete and then traverse up and right along it until you make the “V” shaped jug 2/3rds of the way up. Top out from there to finish.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYgUPWJA6b/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

2m right again. Up through the carrots onto the slab and keep going.

Up SB then veer right, the back left to rejoin SB to finish. 4 BRs.

Climb past the hole and over. Usually wet

Start: Standing below the dirty seeping hole

Steep moves to a tricky mantle and lower off on the left.

Bridge corner to start, then move out on to face to thin top.

Second climb out from the cave on the right side. 3 bolts to double rings at the top

Start 2m right of BBTAKK (below). 4BR, shares belay with BBTAKK.

Same as Knob Jockey except use low ramp for feet start.

Start as for 'Windward Passage', tending right along the black rock to top out directly above next crack.

Start matched on nice big undercling under the lip, then pop up to ledge. Traverse the lip out left staying low and then top out using huge victory jug.

Sit start from side pull flake, reaching for the crimp rail, trend left on more crimps and tricky feet to a committing top out on slopers with a sneaky hidden jug - if you can get high enough to grab it.

Start on lowest edge and climb straight up to top out. First few moves are the hardest.

Start matched on lowest ledge and climb straight up to top out. Lots of high feet.

Start as for "Crunchie" and then head diagonally left before traversing down the good ledge and then climbing up the crack to top out.

Start in front of the small boulder from a good low pocket. Climb directly up in front of the vertical seam.

Start at low juggy block. Climb straight up, topping out slightly right

Start: Standing start 2m right of skyline

Begin with the same start as the only way out. Sit start with both hands matched on the jug. Move left along the main prominent jugs and crimps above the charcoal flake (which may be used for footwork). Half way there is a nice foot jam to rest. Continue to end of line-finish with both hands on final jug along line.

Start matched on ledge in cave and then traverse around the tip of the boulder using any holds. Swing across to wall on right side of boulder and then finish with top out to the right.

Rising lip traverse along the top of the left hand wall. Good warmup

Start to the right side of SWDI, straight up arête to roof and exit left. 4BR, DBB.

3m left of signpost, sit start to left of crack. Up onto slopers, left a metre then up.

Traverses right through the roof left of MB. 4 bolts, rap anchor.

2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.

1. Start as for HIL (faded initials near short crack into cave).

2. After pedestal belay traverse 2m right (ie not as far as HIL) and then up hanging corner (crux). More gear needed then bolts to DRB anchor. Care required with block just before top. 27m to ground

1m right of Buzz. Start on low break then climb up via the diagonal seam running up to the left only. Do not use the holds from the problems either side.

Walk R beyond the cave to the next wall. Daily Bread starts below a L leaning crack (Pearly Gates). Climb past the first two bolts of Pearly Gates and trend acutely L following the diagonally leading U-Bolts. A fun route. Not too hard. Lower off anchor.

Sit start matched on jug rail, slap the arete and up to lip to topout

Sit start L/H on sidepull edge R/H on arete, bump up arete and gain the lip to mantle

Climb the left hand arete keeping your eye out for the hidden pocket and your feet on the R/H wall

Start: Sit start on the low pocket near the L/H arete. , 'Arete' left of Road side assistance)

2m right of TLG. Up thin wall. 4 BRs. DBB .

Variant finish taking middle line at 2/3rd height. Consistent climbing

Start matched as for jiggsy on lowest jug, move up then big move up left to slopey slot on arete, then up and mantle

Climb directly up the blankish section

Start: Standing about middle of block

Start as for The only way out. Big move to the arete using the block on the right to top out early

At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

Sit start near the R/H 'Arete' on the low ledge. Climb the arete to finish at the top of the prow as for 'Chopping block'

Start: Sit start near Right 'Arete'

Climb up veering slightly right. The arete is off

Start: Standing 1m right of arete.

Start matched on crimpy edge on right side of boulder. Make your way across the face and then around the corner to topout/finish.

Start on pocket and sloper. Reachy with an awkward topout.

Start as for "The Gingerbread Man" but pop out slighty right before making your way straight up through slopers (cool double bump sequence) and then topping out using huge scoop out the left. Vault the final scoop as you top out for some extra fun!

Start at fishermans basket up to roof then traverse under roof left to right. One of the easier routes of the cliff.

Start on right hand side of wall, staying off the arête. Straight up off progressively larger holds.

Start matched on the inside jug rail no feet on lower rock in the cave, come out through good edges then bust up left to mega jug, then up through scoop and top out

Sit start from the low horizontal sloper rail and work your way up using the arete, top out left.

The left hand route up the corner of the cave moving R as you get higher and finishing at the anchors in the middle of the roof. There is a much harder variant if you elect not to use the rail at the top. Just pockets

2m left of SWDI up left side of blunt arête. 5BR, DBB.

Variation of 05 Holden. Same starting position as 05 Holden, except cannot use the main jug directly above starting hold. Dynamic power move to first jug on adjacent wall. Continue along 05 Holden to finish.

Start behind trees on lowest ledge and make your way up slightly left then up to top out. Crux is 2/3 of the way up. Crack is not in.

Stand stand on opposing sidepulls or matching the right sidepull, moving up and slightly right to top out.

20m left of Sweet Mamma. Up right side of blunt arete passing 2 BRs and 1 RB. Take care with opening gate on second runner.

Standing start in the middle of heavilly pocketed wall. Climb directly up through the sockets.

Start as for Shake & Bake 'Flake' but head straight up and over.

Climb the corner using some intermediate side pulls

Start: As for 'Jettison', on the undercling

Start matched on sidepull (same as Ruby Tuesday), go straight up, and top out. Perpendicular wall is out.

Start 2m left of BBTAKK, take care with the first high clip. 3BR, DBB.

sart at right end of wall at offwidth and traverse left along entire wall to tree. Crimp endurance training

Variation of 06 Holden- use same hand holds, albeit no footwork on the charcoal flake-footwork to match hands along the jugs and pockets.

Shared start as for 'Cha Siu Bao' but moving more right to top out.

Start below Hungery sex Tables. A low traverse right below the middle horizontal break. Finish as for 'Childs Play'.

Start: As for H.S.T

Up slab a metre right of Descent, through bulge and kindest top out of the boulder

Sit start below the pointed nose of the Alien Boulder on a big pocket. climb up and over to top out.

Start: Alien boulder, sit start below rounded pocket.

1m right. Start on block , straight up to big hold and up crack to tricky mantle.

Just in front of the boulder on the ground. Make a big first move to the first good break then easily up through the jugs to a tricky exit.