Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven for selected grade

A couple of metres left of Hanko, hands to fists crack, marginal gear to get through the sandy bulge. Rap off tree sapling or potentially top out.

The corner crack.

11m right of Shoulders. Arete.

Short corner to roof. Left to wide crack, then scramble. Needs lower-off bolts.

The corner crack. On trad gear.

Corner crack, needs a brush but otherwise good climb.

Huge roof on crazy holds! Start in cave 8m left of Skibumski (same cave as You're the Clown), stick clip high right ring, up to it then left, either thru little roof or up arete, then through big easy roof (clip last bolt way out left in roof as it reduces drag) and into corner and right arete, finish on right. When cleaning, you can hang on the last bolt in the big roof and unclip the previous 2. But easiest for someone to second and clean.

Nice flake system. Up corner on left to ledge (beware loose block that we couldn't budge) then up flakes on left.

Lovely crack with a bit of a grovel down low. Great gear, comfortable with a BD5, a little run out with only a BD4 and run out with only some BD3s. Needs a brush but can be led as is.

Corner climbing with a final traverse to the anchors of 'Bring Out The Chimp'.

Top-rope only. This lovely looking juggy overhung arete is situated right above the tourist track. Once on the midway ledge climb the unlikely 4m off-centre slab arete. There used to be a couple of anchor ringbolts above this route, but some moron has hammered them flat. Set anchors off tree way back instead.

Follow corner crack until you can step right then up to anchors.

Straight up wall

Straight up the crack to Lower-offs

Up the crack and up through the suprisingly solid honeycomb rock to anchors at the top of the wall. A great photo op route.

Up the corner then into the cave briefly until you can pull round onto the slab then up.

Two good pitches, first has better rock, second has better position. Mix of rings and gear. Not ideal if 16 is your limit or you're new to placing gear. Good warm up to some of the other mixed routes here.

A fun route with some good exposure and good photo opportunities. Ring bolts. Take about 10 draws.

1. 16m (14) Climb up to the set of double rings.

2. 20m (16) Traverse left to the airy arete and up to double rings on the ledge on the left of the cave (not the ones 2m further left). Don't clip the brown bolts halfway along the traverse, they belong to Humpback Sushi Roll.

3. 14m (12) Up and R around the arete onto the face. There are double rings at the top for belaying.

Nice climbing up airy arete right of the top of Whale Watchers. Rap down from Whale Watchers anchor, at 10m step into corner and right around arete to double bolt anchor. Or fix a rope from the next anchors (2 fixed hangers) up slightly and and 4m to the right (facing the cliff). Up layback arete to single U loweroff or mantel to top-belay on those 2 fixed hangers on block.

Jump on to the ledge for a fun bouldery move to pull your self up into a nice rest position, then easy onwards with more rest positions. Two chains for anchor.

The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig. Up the corner to the top.

Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.

Face left of DSOTT.

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts.

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left, searching out for those crimps and jugs.

Use Psicotico rings or carrots just to the left. Work you way up diagonal crimp rail. Reach for slopers at horizontal break then jugs to the top.

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

Top rope from double rings: Start from the track in the corner (left of the arrow in the tree) for a harder start or walk up to the break for an easier accent.

NPWS are reviewing this route - May 2013

Balancy start, pull up on roof(s) or squeeze right, bridge through the gap and then juggy slab in the last half. (finishes at Upper South Playground area , thus gives ascent access to the Upper South Face climbs)

[New July 2012] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down via SlipSlabSlop wall or climb up via Amundsen. Fine foot and handholds to reach 1st ledge, look for that right 2 finger pocket to enable the mantle. Up the incuts on the right side of the wall . The last move is a high step, balanced to the left foot. Don't forget to turn around and see/hear where the climb got its name.

[July 2012 - added ring bolt lower-offs] . The first of the main South Face climbs. On the red faced wall at the beginning of the South Face access track.

Top-rope Problem. The problem at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the curved crack. Pretty thin pro.

Toproped Another mongrel climb... Stay off the #1 Crack. Start 1m right of #1 Crack. A long reach up then up the centre.

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top.

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw']

Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's.

You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs.

The arete 1m to the right or Renaissance. Deviously (?) up the arete to ledge. Up easy wall past another carrot.

Start 2m to the right of Daves Dilema. Climb the left crack to the ledge then up the wall above to carrot. Then as for Daves Dilemma.

Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay.

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay.

The crack to the right of Kindergarten.

1. As for Travail to end of traverse and bolt on arete

2. Along Traverse line rightwards to cave, bolt belay

3. Up the cut-off cave to the top.

Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.

1. One Strenuous pull-up move off the ground then climb the middle of the wall between the arete and El Packo to ledge beneath the short wall. 4 RB and 1 carrot bolt (bring a plate)

2. Up the short wall on the left as for Travail 2nd pitch. 4 RB to DBB

The thin crack. Marked EP. Natural pro. Jamb the crack and stem up the sides...mmm nice :?/ Up the crack in arete from ledge.

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

Natural pro. Not popular but a nice climb. Multi pitch with excellent positions. Start at the J.

1. 24m It might be an idea to get your belayer up on the small ledge before you traverse out on the utter crap at the start of this climb. A couple of highsteps will get you to a large horn. Sling this to avoid the 15 ft grounder! Very easy moves up slab near the nose on better rock. Up groove to ledge and left to large tree belay.

2. 14m Follow crack or wall tending right to belay beneath the final roof (DRB).

3. Crux 7m Up short corner to incut hand traverse left under roof. Contorted exit to belay at the top.

We think its probably a 16. Here is the original description: The climb is unique in that you can get a rest (tsk tsk) by climbing up into a big black hole (fuck that!) in the roof before doing the crux. It is also unique in that it is probably the hardest 15 that you will ever climb. Start at the huge chimney at the left of The Crap Stops Here. Up the groove then go right when you get to the roof. Lots of rope drag (doubles are nice here).

One for us botanical minded! Start 2m left of Mangy Donkey in the right hand corner. Climb the corner.

Start in the lefthand corner 3m left of Gallows Tree. Up the flake and to the ledge. Layback (crux) around the roof then up to ledge above. Your choice of the cracks above.

The big chimney 10m left of Desperado. Climb the chimney until you're level with the traverse line. Traverse out to the right and belay at the smallish ledge with the rusty bolts. Continue right until you hit the groove of Desperado.

A girdle traverse of Pox Buttress. Start in the corner at mid height to the right of Poxy Loxy. Head for the ledge on the arete and stay on that level until the last climb on the buttress head up this to top.

Start matched on the big jug on the right then move up left to the ledge, work across to the left then top out. !!Don't use the rock slab that protrudes out just above the start holds, it is loose and could easily fall.!!

Slab around to the right of Barb. Climb left side of slab following vague line of holds. Downclimb route.

Climb Right side of slab. Downclimb route.

Up left side of very featured wall around to the right of Right Slab. Downclimb route.

Climb straight up the middle of this featured face. Downclimb route.

Start on right side of this face and traverse left along lip all the way to the top. Downclimb this or any other route.

Traverse face with feet about the head-height of someone standing on ground.

The crag warmup, the easiest line up the cliff through the rotted and poxy rock which is surprisingly solid.

Scrape and grunt up the offwidth crack. Toprope or lead using Big Bro's. One old carrot at top, 2 newer carrots above PE / PP .

Bouldery start. Pull onto wall and crank on small holds for jugs above. Easy to the top. 2 carrot bolts at top.

Interesting under cling start then up through easy pocketed mess. 2 carrots to top rope.

The slab at the far left of the amphitheatre with no hands. The wall/natural steps on the right are out.

Start on the good hold above the ledge just to the right of the cave and climb straight up. Once you hit the jug on the lip either mantle over or walk off on the ledge to your left, depending on how brave you're feeling. Watch out for the death drop into the boulder pit below!

Direct.

8m left of Self isolation. A short scramble up to a 6m crack. Crack is well protected. The rock surrounding the crack is quite weak and will crumble. Climb with caution and jam as much as you can. Caution: Top has been cleared of loose rocks but there is still some weak rock on top that might dislodge. Top out to the left of the crack.

Named after my first climbing partner and friend Justin, who took his own life in 2018. Hopefully a good reminder to check in on those we care about.

Traversing line starting off the ledge. Can lower of TTOTUA Anchors

Standing start, straight up the corner.

sit start, up right hand crack

Easy corner variant to help beginners. Start at undercling.

Sit start next to spring tide, use the crack to lay back to the top exiting left

Good for practising your stemming, or Sasuke 4th Stage.

The Obvious Arete seen from the lookout. A single rack should be fine. Be cautious of loose rock.

large crack and ledges

A short punchy problem, not conventionally difficult but will test your head game and ego. Wouldn’t recommend but it’s very unique.

Uses the lone ringbolt in the middle of the climbs for a linkup!

Goes from Scarlet Dog into Little Boxer Girl or vice versa - formerly 'Scarlet Poodles'. (Name change to save confusion - no link to Crashing Poodles.)

Left side of the arete.

Classic sand jug pulling.

Start: Left of TG16 at line of rings. Almost shared start with Bamboozled, but straight up. I think it's also called 'Pasty Poofs', although the latter gets a bonus grade.

All ring bolted classic

Just west of decent gully. Start at obvious large pocket.

Links the 1st half of 'The Furburger' into the 2nd half of 'Blister In The Sun'.

Stick clip the first RB. A difficult but enjoyable introduction to the climb is followed by what appears to be a very difficult move. On closer examination however this is circumvented by the use of a manufactured pocket that looks like it was created with a jack hammer not sculptured with the precision of a 12mm drill bit. This 'Thank God Pocket' is actually all that is left of a misplaced bolt placement.

If you do the climb by stemming back against the opposite wall to bypass any difficulties the grade is about 16.

5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 2m up the access gully.

Starts to the right of the descent gully. Enjoy the sloperd.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.