Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Egg Rock | |||||
20 | Meek
The overhanging corner, right of Poached. Some spaced gear below & above the FH. FA: Andrew Barry & Warren Lee, 1984 | 25m, 1 | |||
20 | Resurrection Corner
Overhanging crack Corner opposite Egg Rock. Scramble down the gully behind Egg Rock. A fierce problem, 80° overhanging corner. Top roped by Rick, as a joke. Back then, grade 19 didn't exist. FA: Rick White, 1968 | 18m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon The Bat Cave | |||||
21 | Mount Maroute
Goes through the cave, then out Right. FA: Greg Hambling & Matt Hutton, 1994 | 21m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Viewpoint Buttress | |||||
20 | ★ Skylark
The first crack at the left end of the cliff. Up crack, then up the face on the right, past the bulge to tree belay. FA: Rick White & Paul Caffyn, 1969 FFA: Robert Staszewski & Chris Larque, 1980 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ High Strake
Thin crack, 2m r. of Skylark. Very thin crack, easier than it looks. FA: Rick White & Paul Caffyn, 1969 FFA: Robert Staszewski & Chris Larque, 1980 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ White Heat
The first arete encountered, about 2m R. of High Strake. FA: Rick White, 1969 FFA: Robert Staszewski & Michael Groom, 1982 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ White Heat VF
Up White Heat for about 20m, then head out left. FA: Robert Staszewski & Steve Staszeswki, 1983 | 30m | |||
20 | Tomboy
Hand-crack & face climbing, about 2.5m R. of White Heat. Poor rock in the lower half, easier but run-out in the top half. FA: Robert Staszewski & Karen Sippel, 1980 | 30m | |||
21 | Wild World
The arete right of Tomboy. Up the crack & arete, passing a lonely BR at 12m. Some thin gear in top half where the climbing eases. FA: Scott Camps & Richard Hendersen, 1986 | 30m, 1 | |||
21 | Flight Of The Bumbly
Up blank face between On Safari & Valkerie. Was bolted - these have been chopped. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright | 33m | |||
21 | ★★★ Valkyrie
One of the best routes at Viewpoint. The thin crack just L of Sticks & Stones. Nice moves up the thinning crack on good gear. Chains on S&S. FA: Robert Staszewski & Ian Thomas, 1972 FFA: Robert Staszewski & Karen Sippel, 1980 | 33m | |||
21 | ★★ Sticks And Stones DS
Up the blunt arete on sharp crimpers, to first carrot 4-5m up (gear possible in large overlapping flake), then up to FH, then past another 3 carrots, then small gear to top-out. FA: Duncan Steel, 1991 | 34m, 5 | |||
21 | Top Knot Hair Fasions
Thin crack 2m R of Slush Puppy. Up the crack/weakness on thin gear. Belay from cable on tree above Slush Puppy. A single 50m rope will get you back to the ground. FA: Scott Camps & John Smoothy, 1986 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ Climb & A Half
The crack just left of the arete & r. of the dead gumtree. Up the crack to the first small cave, then up to the 2nd cave. Head out right at the overlap, around the face & join Fidelio at it's 4th bolt. Small gear & easier climbing to top & chains. Bold climbing: requires a cool head. FA: Robert Staszewski & John Mendoza, 1982 | 34m, 1 | |||
20 | ★★ Climb & A Half VF
Up C&A Half to 2nd small cave, continue straight up the thin crack, passing a bolt on the left, & into cave. Clip the FH, out onto face & up the open book corner, passing a 3rd b.r. to chains out right. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1995 | 40m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ Fidelio
The face just left of Thunderflash. Bold up to the first carrot at 6-6.5m (hard to spot from ground), small gear to 2nd bolt at 12-13m, past 2 more bolts, then easier climbing & small gear to chains on C&H. FA: Scott Camps & Brendan Wilson, 1986 | 32m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Thunder Flash
First crack of 4 on this face. Classic thin finger crack & face climbing. 2m r. of Fidelio. FA: Robert Staszewski & Michael Groom, 1982 | 32m | |||
20 | ★★ Willing
3rd of the cracks on this face, 2m r. of Ready. Up crack on good gear & holds, to tree, then FH. FA: Robert Staszewski., Michael Groom & Michael Siwek, 1982 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Tripitaka
Nice face climbing to the left of the large chimney. Descend via chains at top of this route. One 60m rope will just get you to a safe ledge with rope stretch. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1992 | 30m, 10 | |||
20 | ★ Ghostly Hand DS
The thin crack, a couple of metres right & downhill from Thins. Small, but sufficient gear, then tricky mantle at ledge, then up slabby crack to alcove/cave and start of Ghostly Hand. The easiest exit from here is to down-climb to tree & chains above FF&CP. FA: Robert Staszewski & John Mendoza, 1983 | 20m | |||
21 R | ★ Fad's, Fashions & Climbing Politics
The arete just right of Alzheimer's Flash. Up AF (gear), then out right to 1st bolt, balancy moves up to 2nd bolt, then bold moves to top (or stop & place gear). FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986 | 18m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Masters Of War
Climb Marshmallow till you can clip the BR out L. Up on thin sequency holds to 2nd BR, then easier climbing, but run-out, to chains on FF&CP. FA: Darrin Carter & John Hattink, 1997 | 20m, 2 | |||
20 | The Gynther Route
The shallow corner, just R of Marshmallow. Bold climbing up to first bolt at 10m, over large flake & some friable rock, to 2nd bolt, continue up easier face/shallow corner, to 3rd bolt & top. Rap off cable around tree above Bailliere. FA: Trevor Gynther | 36m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ Going Up
Shallow groove & left facing corner just R of TGR. Face climb the shallow alcove with just enough gear where you need it. TB on Bailliere. FA: Robert Staszewski & Shane Chemello, 1982 | 36m | |||
20 | ★ Minimum Security
The shallow groove 1.5m R of Going Up. Climbing is better than it looks from the ground. Belay from cable above Bailliere. FA: Robert Staszewski & Peter Tocker, 1982 | 36m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm Main Wall | |||||
21 | ★★★ Suspended Animation
A spearing handcrack on the face of the pillar Left of BOTE. Layaway over to crack, on thin holds. Once established, follow this superb line up to the top of roofs, then move left around to tree. FA: Joe Lynch & Rob Staszewski, 1980 | 45m | |||
20 | Left Hook
| ||||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm Speed Buttress | |||||
20 | Minute Man
At the top of the gully: A little wall with a good fist corner in the middle.
Can be done in one pitch. FA: Rob Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1980 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★★ Blindfire
First 20m or pitch; as for Minute Man, then the second half up the perfect fist crack corner to top. A three star route! FA: Joe Lynch & Rob Staszewski, 1980 | 40m | |||
20 | ★ Velocette
Initialed: "V" Up the Left facing corner. Hard technical laybacking. History: first spotted & named by Ted Cais in '72. FA: Joe Friend & Kim Carrigan, 1973 | 15m | |||
20 | Left Out
Start: On the pillar below Wounded Bird, split by a hand crack. Take the Left crack of the hand cracks. A hard start leads to a scrubby top-out. FA: Robert Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1980 | 20m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm Tough Mamma Wall | |||||
20 | Dragon Woman
"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977) The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet. FA: Fred From & Kevin Pearl, 1977 | 20m | |||
21 | Tough Mamma
The fantastic crack line in the middle of the crag (see topo).
Tough Mamma Wall - John Hattink on FA 1974 FA: John Hattink & Rick White, 1974 FFA: Nick Taylor, 1976 | 60m | |||
21 | Pretty Vacant
A more complete finish of the crack Right of Tough Mamma. Up this till it blanks out, then left into Tough Mamma & up to top. FA: Joe Lynch & Robert Staszewski, 1980 | 35m | |||
21 | ★★ Magician
Start in the alcove at the initialed "M", up the slope, Right of the free standing pillar.
Sustained crack climbing, exceptionally hard in places. Ground up first ascent, no rests, no inspection, no cleaning. FA: Rick White & Ian Thomas, 1973 | 65m, 2 | |||
20 | Enduro
Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.
FA: Steven Waite & Allison Greenhalg, 2005 | 30m | |||
20 | Enduro - VS
To avoid the tough direct start, take the overhanging flake/crack & step R into chimney and grovel up this. Rest as per Enduro. FA: Steve Waite & Alison Greenhalg, 2005 | 30m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Maggie's Farm End Gully | |||||
20 | unknown
FA: Joe Lynch & Rob Staszewski | 20m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt May Slopey Wall | |||||
V2 | ★★ Stone Thrower
The cliff band to the right of WKDNC. Sit start with high LH crimp and obvious Rail Rh. Excellent moves on incut crimps slightly moving right and then up to a athletic mantle above on the ledge. Traverse far left to get down FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Scott Walsh & Josh Shipp | ||||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Hamarney (Private Land) Main wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Good Chasing Rock
In an obvious clear patch. Straight up, then trends diagonally left easily to the first bolt, continue trending left through pumpy section, then begin trending diagonally right through the bulge (crux), and up to easy finish. FFA: HM, 2012 FA: HM, 2012 | 17m, 6 | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Hamarney (Private Land) Kaos wall | |||||
21 | ★★★ Little Lily
First climb established at KOAS. Starts 2m left of BVK; A beautiful pitch, following the obvious line of weakness. Set: HM, 2013 FFA: HM, 2013 FA: HM, 2013 | 27m, 14 | |||
20 | ★★ Warren the Turtle
Starts right of the ominous face, following a chimney, traversing to the arête, up to anchors, double fixed hanger anchor FFA: HM, 2013 Set: HM, 2013 FA: HM, 2013 | 28m, 14 | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim MacKrag (Private Land) | |||||
20 | ★★ Leaping Lomandra
A nice warm up, with a pumpy headwall, on pockets, crimps and pinches | 18m | |||
Queensland South East Gold Coast Closed Burleigh Heads National Park | |||||
20 | ★★ Bush Aids Strikes Back
Start up the offwidth to the right of Hunter Gatherer. Bring big cams up to arm you for the mini-wrestling match that you're about to endure. Strenuous smooth off-widthing climbing the outside of Narrow is the Way. FA: Alex Mougenot & Vaughan Christie | 12m | |||
Queensland South East Gold Coast North Burleigh Bouldering South End | |||||
V2 | Get 'Er Done!
The name of the route must always be said in a loud raspy southern American accent. Sit start in small cave; right-hand crimp and left-hand gaston start. Go directly up and end on the obvious jug, L of flake. Optional heel hook to get out of the cave FA: Chris Urbanek, Nat Colville & Douglas Robb, 17 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
Queensland South East Gold Coast North Burleigh Bouldering | |||||
V2 | ★ Cannon Ballin'
Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Poseidon
Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ The Jackdaw
Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out. FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Walk the Plank
Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out. FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Red Emperor
On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Fishermans Friend
Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Sloth
left heel hook start on awesome jugs, heel hook all the way. follow the line. Top out at the very end of the flake. FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Bobs Your Uncle Or Your Aunty
Furtherest left route before choss. Sit start in a cross on good holds and move up positive holds above to a high top. Get down moving left. FA: unknown | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Groundhog day
2nd last line. To the right of BYUOYA- starting on a grey bulge in a pocket. FA: unknown | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Finger Killer
Start at Bobs your Uncle, head up to the chalky ledge then traverse right across to the other chalky ledge. Start to descend before Maimi Slicer and use the "finger killer" undercling crimp to descend into the start of sandy toes under the roof. Finish in the sit start position. Set: Ava Williams, 18 Apr 2022 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Miami Slicer
Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top. FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Tan Line
Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge. FFA: Matt Hutton | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Ruach
Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point. FFA: Leighton Smith Set: Pedro & Yulid Shorrock, 17 Aug 2015 | 5m | |||
V2 | Mike's mischief
So called because Mike told us this was Kadosh. It wasn't. Sit start hands matched on big jug. Bust straight out to mantle. There is also potentially good novelty value if you start reversed with hands on the same jug and feet out near the lip. Get the feet to the lip then turn and mantle. Much harder this way though. Set: Michael Williams, 14 Nov 2021 FA: Jack Mullaly, 14 Nov 2021 | ||||
V2 | Sky Prophet
Sit start low (requires erosion, refer to topo). Right hand sidepull/ pinch. Left hand on good crimp. Follow the bulge up and top out slightly right. FA: 3 Jan 2022 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Hodu
Start on the under-cling and shoot for the lip, mental in to it. Set: WSD, 17 Aug 2015 FA: WSD, 17 Aug 2015 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ No Fear
start on huge 2 hand jug, make your way along the outside of boulder. only using hold on the outside. make your way around the outside of the boulder staying low and top out on the high point.(don't use the hold on top until top out.same finish as Torah. Set: Yulid Shorrock, 3 Jul 2015 FA: WSD, 25 Sep 2015 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Torah
Sit start on the far left of the boulder. RH small undercling, LH on slopper jug or undercling right next to slopper jug. Figure out a way to blast out. Top out on the highest point. FA: Pedro WSD, 26 Aug 2015 Set: Yulid Shorrock, 26 Aug 2015 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Grasshopper's Rock
Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete. | 3m | |||
Queensland South East Gold Coast Pages Pinnacle | |||||
21 | ★★ Penguin Sport Crack
Hybrid climbing, sport climbing leading into a solid crack feature. Has enough sting. | 15m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ El Nino
Traverse left from the belay (runout to start) past 3 bolts to where the wall goes vertical. La Nina goes straight up. This steps further left. Follow the left most line of bolts up the vertical to slightly overhung wall. Steep, pumpy climbing on big holds and great rock. FFA: ross ferguson & Glenn, 2011 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Spanish Fly p1
Starts at WIO belay. Up and right passing FH to stance then up the orange wall to a lower off where the wall steepens. The extension past two bolts is 23 and is juggy - go for it! FA: ross ferguson, 2013 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Yule Corner | 18m, 8 | |||
21 | ★ TOS Extension
If TOS didn't warm you up, keep going through the bulge past 4 more bolts to high anchor. FFA: Sammi, 2013 | 19m, 13 | |||
21 | ★ Dirk Goes Missing
About 5m R. Technical climbing on some unusual angles. Climbs away from the bolt line at one point. FFA: Glenn & Lara Masselos, 2012 | 17m | |||
20 | ★ Striptease
U-bolts. Up the slab and trend right until it steepens. Shares high anchor with previous route. FFA: Gordon Baudino, 2012 | 18m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Iso’s Antidote
Direct finish - Straight up from the 9th UB avoiding the leftward traverse. | 23m, 10 | |||
20 | ★ Hunk-Erup
Black streak at belayers 11 o’clock with chain anchors above the roof crack’s left corner. Shares the first three bolts with previous routes then split right for the 4th. | 19m, 8 | |||
20 | ★ Ripple Effect
A mix of slab, cave, vert and crimp. The only Rona Wall route to have it’s own first bolt, up and right from the belay station. Shares the anchors with ‘Maggie’s on the Bogroll’. | 18m, 8 | |||
21 | ★ Bobby Dazzler
A bit of a runout at the top. Starts 1m right of FC&W. Shares chains with FC&W and YT. FFA: ross ferguson, Matthew Clifford & Glenn, 2010 | 12m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Yorkshire Terrier
Climb the steep start (Stick Clip recommended) and into the scoop. FFA: Glenn & John Amsler, 2010 | 12m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Razor
The 2nd Last route at the cliff, 2m left of the small alcove. 8 Ubolts to chain anchor, consistent and not obvious climbing. Set: Gordon Baudino, 21 Dec 2014 FFA: Gordon Baudino & Glenn, 26 Apr 2015 | 13m, 8 | |||
21 | ★ Snakes and Ladders
Climbs the shallow corner, providing a nice puzzle and solid slab finish. Shares the last bolt and anchor with Quick Draw McGraw. Set: Glenn, 21 Jul 2015 FFA: Glenn & Sarah Shoelace, 2 Sep 2017 | 28m | |||
21 | ★★ Tomahawk
Climbs nice rock to the right of the corner up the steepest part of the wall. Long classy pumper with no hard moves. Set: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 21 Jun 2015 FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen & Glenn, 26 Sep 2015 | 27m | |||
20 | ★★ Tommygunn
Start in the juggy lava tubes veering right to high first bolt. Stickclip recommended. | 29m, 14 | |||
Queensland South East Gold Coast Closed Poondahra | |||||
20 | ★ Muffy
ALL ROUTES LISTED L TO R. | 40m | |||
21 | ★ Immoral Aids
| 45m | |||
21 | ★★ Rock Of Ages p2
| 23m | |||
20 | ★★ Kinaesthetics
| 26m | |||
20 | Lucifer
| 20m | |||
20 | Domino
| 8m | |||
21 | ★★★ Socialist Sympathies (Leaning To The Left)
| 20m | |||
21 | ★ Black Elk
| 22m | |||
20 | ★ Block Buster
| 26m | |||
20 | ★★ Grumble Bum
| 26m | |||
21 | ★ Opposite Lock
| 10m | |||
20 | ★ Frendz
| 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Blind Justice
| 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Ground Swell
| 44m | |||
21 | ★ Tubed
| 35m | |||
21 | ★★ Glassy Walls
| 42m | |||
21 | ★★★ Stand Up, Stand Up
| 46m | |||
21 | ★★ Wrinkles From Smiling
| 46m | |||
20 | ★★ Escape From Reason
| 40m | |||
21 | ★ Needeep Wall
| 40m |