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Ascents in Tasmania by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 435 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall
24 Hung on a Tree Sport 13m, 5 Very Good
Back-to-back-to-back thinness on positive edges. The technical finale is the best bit. No time for another shot.

 
21 Sugar Mountain Sport 10m Very Good
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.

 
Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso Golgotha
22 The Long Kiss Goodnight Sport 25m, 12 Very Good
Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.

 
19 Ghost Rider Sport 27m, 10 Classic
Clean repeat. Just pleasant, flowing slabbing the whole way. Dreamy!

 
Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Leviathan
22 No Antidote Sport 15m Very Good
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.

 
21 Yuddy Boody Noo Sport 15m Very Good
Repeat. Weird, funky, and tough.

 
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock
New Horizons
23 ~24 Captain Awesome Sport 18m Very Good
Another stacked one. The opening boulder gave me a fair bit of grief initially. I went through it twice, only to bungle easier moves higher up. Complex face climbing.

 
24 The Mullets' Edge Sport 18m Classic
Repeat attempt - not clean today. In this instance, I couldn't even touch the opening move, but had no real trouble from after it to the top. But for the bouldery start, this route is better, and more arete-y than I remember it.

 
21 Way Of The Beanie Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Really short, but really tricky and unrelenting in my opinion. I came close to falling a few times.

 
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill
22 Rock Around the Clock Sport 15m Very Good
Short, but intense and unlikely.

 
19 Crocodile Rock Sport 14m Very Good
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.

 
17 Rock N Roll is King Sport 12m Good
An okay face climb.

 
23 Rock Steady Sport 20m Very Good
2 shots. Couldn't keep it together at the mid-point crux on either lap. A stacked upper half.

 
23 Rock Hard and Ride Free Sport 20m Very Good
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.

 
23 Hard as a Rock Sport 20m Very Good
Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.

 
21 Let’s Get Rocked Sport 18m Very Good
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.

 
Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
24 Heaven Can Wait Sport 30m, 14 Classic
Repeat attempt -not clean today. Frustrating. I first onsighted this back in 2016, and have never fallen off it since. Today, I got utterly schooled. Some big falls, much complaining, and a pathetic effort. The sun didn't help, but that's certainly not wholly to blame.

 
23 Fire in the sky Sport 30m, 16 Very Good
Clean repeat. Well, at least I can still get up this one despite weakness and temps. Still a personal favourite.

 
Thu 12th May 2022 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
25 Neon God
1 22 25m
2 25 25m
Sport 50m Classic
TRS Clean both pitches. Good to get back on this years after I last did it, and repeat it without too much difficulty even sans chalk. P2 is quite sustained and continuous in its two halves, with very rad moves up an incipient series of seams. I enjoyed this way more today than I did last time.

 
23 The Holy Road Sport 25m Very Good
TRS clean. Surprisingly worthwhile, and not as contrived as I was expecting from some of the comments here (certainly no more contrived than Neon God P2). Challenging thin sequences between good stances. This didn't seem too hard in the style even absent chalk.

 
14 Fiddlesticks Trad 65m Classic
Morning FS to get my rope atop the pillar for some TRSing. Absolutely brilliant! Clean, old school, exposed, technical, and even a tad thrutchy. Easy climbs dont get much better.

 
Wed 11th May 2022 - Bare Rock
The Block
26 Stiff Upper Cock Sport 12m, 10 Classic
TRS Clean 2nd shot. I wanted to give this a lap now that it's no longer a closed project, but absent belayer, TRS will have to do. I've given this little gem classic, because I just can't imagine 12m of climbing getting much better (Great rock, super sustained, complex, technical moves, a very obvious line... even the initial gr21 crack section was engaging with bombproof rock).

 
15 Block O'Clock Sport 8m, 3 Good
Repeat. Great way to access the top of the boulder. Has cleaned up nicely since last time I did it, and is now good insecure fun.

 
Mon 9th May 2022 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 28 Chase that Feeling Sport 35m Classic
Wow! A sustained, complex face climb with classic moves and rock, to a no-hands rest, before a gnarly V6 boulder finale through the top roof. The upper slab is not to be underestimated!

Though I could do the moves of the boulder, I didn't feel that I could put both parts of the climb together in the 2 days I had to try it, so instead I traversed over to the finale of Velvet Morning immediately before the no-hands rest at the top roof, and finished up that (hence not claiming the full grade). Sure, it's the piker's McDougall, but it makes the climb even more sustained, and just as classic as most of the other routes here IMO! Hopefully next time I'll send it properly.

Full disclosure: I also started with the first 3 bolts pre-clipped.

At the start I use a compression/arete-slapping/heel-hooking sequence rather than the crimp boulder. Was heaps of fun figuring it out.

 
Sat 7th May 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Deepwater Zawn
17 Beowulf - with Stephen Varney, Jared Anderson Trad 35m Classic
Haha, what a hilarious route. Not really a "line" per say, but certainly a very unlikely journey. I climbed a sightly harder variant for the sake of a photo, where I climbed the tier of rooflets below the normal line (ie, my handholds were the normal footers), which added even more wildness. Bomber rock and pro. My old criticism is that rapping in is a bit faffy.

 
Fri 6th May 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall
12 Apline - with Stephen Varney Trad 70m Mega Classic
Clean repeat. An evening lap before dinner. Heavenly.

 
Thu 5th May 2022 - Bare Rock
Easter Rising Face
27 M1 Masked Lapwing - with Jared Anderson, Stephen Varney Sport 40m Very Good
5 days of effort in total to free both pitches. It takes a lot for exposure to scare me, but this route managed it. Super obscure, but stunning.

Wild, gymnastic traversing, with huge falls into space. I got in the habit of climbing this with my grigri pre-set just behind my knot, and my Jumaar ready for rapid deployment.

On one of my laps on P2 I took a really bad fall, to the point I thought I'd broken my foot. I managed the Send on my final real shot of the trip.

The Aid move on P1 probably goes free if you've a bigger standing reach than me. The one on P2 definitely goes free, but it adds at least 3 more grades to the pitch. Feel free to go for the true FFA!

 
Tue 3rd May 2022 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
23 Fire in the sky - with Stephen Varney Sport 30m, 16 Very Good
Clean Repeat. Even after all these years and laps, this doesn't get any easier. Damn its sustained!

 
Mon 2nd May 2022 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
23 Smoke on the Water - with Stephen Varney Sport 30m Very Good
Clean repeat. Totally worthwhile technical face climbing. This has cleaned up well over the years.

 
Sun 1st May 2022 - Fortescue Bay
The Totem Pole
27 The Sorcerer - with Jared Anderson
1 22 10m
2 25 15m
3 27 40m
Mixed trad 65m, 9 Classic
Early birthday present! What a rad outing. Like the Free Route, but with proper physical, burly climbing. The crux pitch is very sustained in the bottom half. Gale force winds made this a griping, shivering, barn-dooring experience.

P1 - Self-belay shennanigans after the belay got dumped by waves. After self-belaying to the end-of-pitch anchor, I fixed the rope there, and back-tracked to undo my self-belay anchor so Jared could rap all the way to the P2 belay from the mainland.

P2 - Hard fought, unchalked onsight. The top 5m is fierce arete slapping. I almost gave up at the last bolt as I struggled to clip mid-barndoor, but just squeaked it.

P3 - 4th shot total (including onsight attempt and a TRS lap). On my 3rd shot I fell off on tbe last move of the last hard sequence. Stacked techo climbing, with no shutdown crux.

 
Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Maelstrom Wall
22 The Green Dream - with Jared Anderson Sport 20m, 12 Classic
A lot of this was sopping, so I chose to chalk and equip the draws on the way down. Like everything here, the quality was so high that crappy connies didn't impede the fun. Super classy face climbing.

 
21 White Noise - with Michael Lehmann, Jared Anderson Sport 30m, 14 Classic
Seconding Michael. Yep, deserves the rep. Quality rock, classy climbing, very unlikely at the grade. A total joy to climb.

 
Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Elephanthide Wall
21 21/22 Trunk Music - with Jared Anderson Sport 33m, 18 Classic
Wild face climbing, with lots of insecure technicality. After the nights rain, this was super spooge, and I climbed like I was walking on eggshells.

 
23 Deep Six - with Jared Anderson Sport 40m Classic
Awesome! Lots of unlikely moves that seem like they'll be nails, but come together okay. Even with a sopping wet start, this was just tonnes of fun, and easily as rad as white noise IMO.

 
Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Bull Pinnacle
21 Zugzwang - with Michael Lehmann Sport 20m, 12 Very Good
Seconding Michael. The rock is a bit crunchy, but the climbing is rad, insecure and gripping. The bottom half is the money, and seemed hard at the grade to me. Be sure to make the most of the arete through the crux.

 
Wed 27th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay The Aviary
25 Lodestone - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Mixed trad 30m, 14 Classic
2nd shot total. Scrapped by way up this with the help of some funky crux beta from Michael -necessitating some gnarly foot-above-head insanity to work with my physiology- which was key to my success without working the route. It's far from over even after sticking the roof, and I felt like I was questing desperately all the way to the anchor. Highlight of the Bruny trip for sure.

 
24 Footnote - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 25m, 10 Classic
2nd shot. Flash pumped out at the top bolt on the onsight. Awesome, technical shallow corner climbing in an insecure position. Quite unrelenting in the top half. Totally deserves its rep.

 
21 Peer Review - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
1 21 28m
2
Mixed trad 28m, 10 Very Good
Great warmup. Climbed both pitches as 1 big pitch. Beautiful climbing up funky grooves on P1, and easier but worthwhile box groove traddy stemming on P2. I brought a rack of medium wires, and cams 0.3 - 1 for the top.

 
Tue 26th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay The Aviary
23 Primavera - with Gerry Narkowicz, Michael Lehmann, Jared Anderson Mixed trad 28m, 12 Classic
Mega! The slightly annoying trad start is long forgotten after you tackle the sustained overhanging stemming grooves. Even in todays wetness, this was just too much fun!

 
22 Crow - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 20m Very Good
2nd shot. Did not find the key crimps at the crux before I spooged off. Still felt nails at the grade 2nd shot.

Really cool, sustained climbing, with a gnarly fingery crux. The upper bit is great!

 
23 Desert Raven - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 20m Very Good
2 gnarly cruxes in differing styles separated by easier climbing. The upper crux got me, I'm afraid. Was a bit too frustrayed to give it another shot.

 
25 Lodestone - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Mixed trad 30m, 14 Classic
Went for the unchalked, spoogey onsight, and managed to make it to the roof before falling. After that it was bolt to bolt. Happy with my effort and the fight at EOD, cause it is proper stemmy stem insecurity to the roof.

 
24 Powerful Owl - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 20m Very Good
Short and punchee!

I probably had more trouble keeping it together through the start boulder, than the upper powerful, morpho section... but I did have Michael's good foot beta.

 
20 19 Cheeky Monkey - with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
Some cool, delicate moves... but I thought the crux was absolutely brutal at the grade. Not a bad introduction to the crag, though.

 
Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Bare Rock
Main Face
23 Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch - with Jared Anderson Sport 20m Very Good
Clean repeat. Whew... thinner than I remembered! This one got me warm.

 
19 Tomorrows Dream - with Jared Anderson Sport 100m Very Good
Clean Repeat. Great way to shake out the bare rock cobwebs. A worthwhile easy multi!

 
Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Bare Rock
Supernaut Face
25 Heaven and Hell - with Jared Anderson Sport 45m Very Good
Gave it a mega onsight attempt, which ended high high high when I encountered too much moss on one of the final sequences. With a quick scrub it woulda been fine, but such is the nature of onsighting, I guess.

Despite appearances, this has a lot of independant, sustained technical climbing, which I thoroughly enjoyed.

 
26 Master of Puppets - with Jared Anderson Sport 55m, 13 Classic
2nd shot. First clean repeat, I think. Mega exposed climbing through huge blocky roofs on immaculate rock. I giggled my way up this on the send (singing Lovecats, for some reason).

 
Sat 1st May 2021 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul - with Will Vidler, Gerry Narkowicz, Match, Ingvar Lidman, Lucas C Sport 25m, 11 Classic
13 More days of effort on the project, and came a hair's breadth from success. The gr25/26 sections either side of the crux felt like a cruise wherein I could rest on almost any move, and each of the 6-moves of the crux (and the crux in isolation) were in complete control. But I just didn't manage to link the final moves of the crux into the rest of the route.

Twice I latched the final hold of the crux (once in the dark with a headlamp) which I'd never managed in all my previous days on this route over 7 years, but just didn't have the wherewithal to see it through, and was worn out after so many days on the climb.

It's all there for the taking, I just need to bring my route knowledge/fitness from this trip BACK to the climb when I'm fresh and psyched. October, methinks...

All in all, disappointing, and a trifle frustrating, but still a great journey.

 
Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
25 Dopamine - with Will Vidler Sport 30m, 15 Classic
Clean repeat. Given some frustrating days on my project (and my injured shoulder) getting up this clean 3 years after I was last on it and feeling relaxed and engaged was just what I needed. Very pleasant technical padding.

 
23 Fire in the sky - with Will Vidler Sport 30m, 16 Very Good
Clean Repeat. Great climbing (after the first few metres) and much easier than I remember. A pleasant technical stroll today.

 
Mon 12th Apr 2021 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
25 26 Vapour Trail (Pitch 1) - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Will Vidler Sport 25m Classic
EOD Repeat attempt after a full morning on the Project.. Not clean today. A single fall when I misread a sequence, but otherwise this felt every bit a rad 25, and I felt stroooooong. Other than a few garbage bolt placements, this was heaps of fun.

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Bare Rock
Main Face
24 Godhead's Lament - with Will Vidler Sport 25m, 11 Very Good
Clean Repeat. A nice lower-tier steep route to escape the rain (hence why we were here today). Given that I originally graded this 25 (???) I actually think it's probably quite easy for a 24 (!!!). Absolutely cruised it today.

 
23 Mornings Minion - with Will Vidler Sport 83m, 14 Very Good
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Um... After telling Will how much I love this route and that I haven't fallen off it in 7 years, I then proceeded to slip off it.

In my defense, it was raining, and I'd been awake for 30 hours

Maybe not quite as classic as I remember, but still a great re-introduction to Bare Rock.

 
Tue 10th Apr 2018 - South Sister
Pole 62
25 Out of the Shadows Sport 25m Classic
2nd shot. So much for a "rest day". The ludicrous overhang is formed by the fact that the dolerite column has fallen over, and you are climbing the underside, with very few "holds" but lots of intriguing features and body-positions to work to keep you on. The final moves at the lip would be an onsight killer, and even on red-point I only just kept the thin and powerful moves together. Absolutely brilliant, would be a classic anywhere in the world.

 
Sat 31st Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Main Face
18 Tomorrows Dream
1 16 30m
2 18 20m
Sport 50m Very Good
FS attempt with the predominant aim to FS the top (3rd - gr19) pitch, but got a bit rattled by a bunch of loose blocks on P2, and with my head space out-of-check, decided to bail. The end of P1 was bloody gripping in the circumstances, as was the traverse on P2, though neither were -technically- hard, they were insecure enough to be engaging.

 
Sat 31st Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
Over the course of a month (with the loss of just over a week due to rain), I had 16 working laps on Top Rope Solo, and 15 lead shots. In my final 3 days, despite being totally worn out, I was regularly coming within a few millimeters of skin (or the odd stupid punt with it "in the bag") of the tick, but despite everything time has escaped me. Without the loss of time due to rain, and maybe a few more rest days (or another week or two up my sleeve to carry on for the tick), I genuinely have no doubt that it would have gone down this year (my 3rd year on the route), as I had crossed the "red-point threshold" in the last few days, and was moving determinedly to the goal. Hard not to be disappointed.

The route is absolutely stunning, and despite the epic access, difficult belay position, and challenges to find belayers, it is worth all the effort for this amazing piece of hyper-technical test-piece (for me) climbing. Hard 25 to the bad rest below the crux; V6/V7 crux, and techo 25 to the top. Immaculate rock. Inspiring position.

Maybe next trip to Tassie will be the one.

 
Sat 24th Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 Vapour Trail Sport 35m Classic
Repeat ATTEMPT in the proper, sopping, waterfall-ing, torrential rain. This route was wet wet wet, which -considering how slopey it is- made it exciting. Somehow linked -placing the draws- to near the tippy top before exploding off a particular wet hold in a particularly inglorious manner. Good training in adverse conditions. If it was cold enough, I could've ice-climbed it today.

 
27 Atomic Vampire Sport 20m Very Good
Working lap in torrential rain. I lead as high as the water running down the face, then worked the various cruxes of the route from the top down (as the rapid progression of the water necessitated). Great progress, but out of time (and decent weather) to stick with this route this trip.

 
23 Smoke on the Water Sport 30m Very Good
Repeat, placing draws as a warmup. A particularly tough crux. If the rock was better on the lower section, this would be great.

 
Fri 23rd Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Easter Rising Face
27 M1 R Rise of the Masked Lapwing - PROJECT PAUL - with Heath Black Sport 40m Mega Classic
Lead attempt in damp conditions (not ideal for steep-sloper jugging). Took quite a while to work out the moves to leave the corner and turn the blunt arête, then a bunch of semi-scared falls/rests along the traverse line to Green Spandex, before running out time, back-jumping and bailing. Outrageously cool. A lot of effort to climb though. Kinda scary.

 
Fri 23rd Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Main Face
26 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - with Heath Black Sport 180m Mega Classic
Repeat attempt (sort of). Pitches 3-6 with Neil, with all manner of crazy weather. P3 - Fell off a few times at the slab crux in the rain before I stopped trying to follow Neil's chalk, and climbed the line of the bolts (at grade 21). Short and tough for a slab. P4 - 2nd Clean. Gripping on 2nd, but still a great pitch. My desire to climb this section of rock was what actually motivated me to start developing this entire multi! Hard techo traverse under a cramped roof, an engaging roof turn, and a long, pleasant, aesthetically appealing slab above. P5 - 2nd Unclean. I'd forgotten how hard (and sequency) this roof pitch is. Managed the first half of it clean on 2nd taking the draws off, but the two main cruxes took me a bunch of falls to remember. Super-duper boulder. P6 - Dog. After Neil bailed. I went up to finish the pitch. Clean to the crux, then a bunch of falls at the crux before I worked it out, then clean to the top. A brilliant, beautiful pitch of powerful climbing up a BLACK STREAK!

 
21 Yesterday's Hero - with Heath Black Sport 45m Very Good
Another lap. This time seconding Neil (clean) in rather wet conditions. The weather didn't detract too much, despite it being a techo slab. Long.

 
24 Godhead's Lament Sport 25m, 11 Very Good
Repeat ATTEMPT in the rain as a warmp, to get the route prepped for Neilio to flash. Surprised myself by only falling off once, after linking the majority of the hard stuff and chalking and cleaning as I went. Pumpy and funky, with some average rock (for Bare Rock).

 
Wed 21st Mar 2018 - Sand River
Colosseum Area The Colosseum
17 Lions Sport 7m, 4 Good
Huzzah! Average rock, but actually kinda fun for the grade. Pocketses.

 
26 Caligula Sport 15m Very Good
2 laps. The first was just getting up it, the second was sorting the beta. Something of a pumpy novelty (a prolonged lip traverse of a cave), but the moves are extremely complex (I love a good Rose move) and funky, in an acrobatic sort of way. Out of time for the second, but could certainly do this in a few more shorts.

 
Wed 21st Mar 2018 - Sand River
Fire Wall
24 Fire Starter Sport 18m, 9 Classic
2nd shot. I needed to get crafty on the top crux to suit my style. Near-perfect rock (with a single dirty-horizontal exception), and 3 distinct sections, each of which has its own style. I particularly enjoyed the gripping this slab at the bottom, but it's all pretty good.

 
22 Glowing Embers Sport 18m, 9 Very Good
Great for the grade, with a huge variety of moves. Reminds me of "Cinderella crag" in NSW. Bouldery start to a thin slab. A dawdly middle, and a funky steep juggy ending. You'd be stoked on this if it was your limit.

 
Tue 20th Mar 2018 - Sand River
Colosseum Area The Colosseum
24 Fed to the Lions Sport 15m, 8 Average
The start is easy and pleasant, and the boulder-problem crux is quite improbable and not too hard (though very sharp: I circumcised a finger on a key hold), but everything above it is a disintegrating sandpit. Bailed after the crux, when I got sick of eating sand (literally).

 
25 Hercules Sport 15m, 7 Classic
Pooooooowerful! Just the one lap. Falls in a few sections working it out. There's a thin move (the setup to the dyno) which gave me more trouble than the rest of the route, and I'm dubious about sticking on a Send attempt. Great moves and rock, and the thin and punchy finale could certainly spin anyone off.

 
23 Alea Jacta est Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
2nd shot. Flashed to the infamous top crux, but had to come up with some new beta for the send. Great grampians-esque rock. Short and sweet, and tricky for the grade.

 
Mon 19th Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Main Face
17 MacDonagh Trad 200m Classic
With No-Chalk Rob. A classic in the style, with amazing exposure an improbable moves (especially when you consider when it was first climbed!). Onsight P2, and P4 & P5 (linked), clean 2nd P1 and P3. We started up a cleaner corner further right of the original line on P1, which was more pleasant (and less loose) and slightly harder. P2 in general is brilliant tradding, with the opening moves up the block, and the stemming across the void, being truly standout at the grade. P3 was "okay" rambling. P4 was brilliant steep stemming/jamming, though somewhat loose. I accidentally made up a new P5 (linked from the previous pitch), climbing up the thin overhanging corner directly (with a brief foray to the middle of the face immediately left), which was hard, loose and sparse on the gear... but bloody exciting. About gr21? That'll teach me not to read the guidebook. Rob also led a short grade nothing exit doddle.

 
Fri 16th Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 28 Atomic Vampire Sport 20m Classic
Working lap as the torrential rains moved in. I really love this route (though it took me ages to remember the first sequence of the crux), but the ACTUAL crux for me is the clip immediately following the 2nd half of the crux... I've never managed to do it on link (seems to be about 1m right of the climbing line?). Might be time for some "Velcro jiggery-pokery" (a la Barbarella). I'd love to have this route as a local!

 
27 Vapour Trail Sport 35m Classic
Decided to check out the full route. Fell on the main crux of the bottom section while re-familiarising myself with it, then a bunch of falls on the top section. The top is quite intense (3 back-to-back V2/V3 boulders after having ticked a stiff 25 to the lower anchors), but really achievable, in an interesting balance of techy and boulder. One to spend some time on... if I had more time.

 
23 White Powder Warmup (To the 7th Bolt) Sport 12m, 7 Very Good
2 x clean Back-to-back lead laps as a warmup. Short, pumpy and punchy. Good warmup.

 
Wed 14th Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Main Face
26 27 Ride the Lightning Sport 200m Classic
Repeat ATTEMPT of P1 only. With damp rock and no chalk to guide my way, I surprised myself by linking to the very end of the crux before failing to find the key hold, but otherwise climbing it well and in control. Barring a section in the middle of the route which has been damaged by rockfall (still climbable, but very loose... needs some industrial-grade trundling to tidy it up), this route is an eclectic mix of styles, with an aesthetic and punchy thin crux. The final fridge-hugging moves to the anchors are great.

 
23 Mornings Minion Sport 83m, 14 Classic
Clean repeat. This has become a well-loved trade route now, and it's well worth the hype. I never get tired of this quality slab, and it's surprisingly intense upper half.

 
Mon 12th Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
23 Fire in the sky Sport 30m, 16 Very Good
Clean Repeat. As good as I remember. Sure, its a bit pox for the first 6m or so, but after that it's pure hyper-technical class.

 
Mon 12th Mar 2018 - Bare Rock
Main Face
23 HomoClimbtastic Sport 30m Good
2nd shot. Stuck the crux (climbing it totally chalkless and wrong) on the onsight, then had a foot-slip soon after . Was fine 2nd shot. Okay climbing, very cruxy, not as good as Tomorrow's Dream P3.

 
21 Yesterday's Hero Sport 45m Very Good
Clean repeat. Just a brilliant long pitch of Bare Rock slabbing, with a few rooflets to negotiate. Hard to imagine that it is one of the newer routes here, as it's super-obvious, and proper quality.

 
Sun 3rd Jul 2016 - Bare Rock
Easter Rising Face
27 M1 R Rise of the Masked Lapwing - PROJECT PAUL Sport 40m Mega Classic
A lap on Top Rope, definately not clean. Just doing all the moves (to verify that they go as un-tensioned complete sequences), which I can verify that they DO! Pumpy as hell, intimidating position, strenous moves which require a weird intricacy to climb. No move harder than gr25, but sooo many moves at that grade. I guess its gonna have to wait until Next Season... I leave on Wednesday. =(

 
Fri 1st Jul 2016 - Bare Rock
Easter Rising Face
27 M1 R Rise of the Masked Lapwing - PROJECT PAUL Sport 40m Mega Classic
Wow! How has this not been climbed yet? A contender for THE best line in all of Bare Rock! The best rock on the crag, in the best position (the massively overhanging headwall above The Great Roof) and amazing moves (non-stop gr25 for 25m of climbing!) AND it starts from an awesome belay stance (not the usual hanging belay nonsense of the other Headwall pitches, with Belayer Bait routes nearby off the same belay.) The very definition of SPECTACULAR, and DAMN I am PSYCHED!

 
Wed 29th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
Despite no rain for a week, the crux and above was a seeping mess on this today. I did the starting gr26 section clean 5 times (back to back) with 5kgs of weight as a WARMUP for training. The crux finally dried out hours later, and I launched into it again... and realised that I've fallen off this thing so many times, I've started balking at move 5 just because I'm sick of doing it. I've been in the realm of Sending this for the last month or so, but I'm just over it. I made the decision to strip my gear off this route... The Obsidian Obsession escapes me again. =(

 
Mon 27th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
Back on lead again (and I had a WHOLE rest day this time!!!), though too hot on the face to be ideal. Climbed consistently to the 4th move of the crux, but didn't manage to push beyond that on link. I then proceeded to destroy myself throwing myself the entire crux sequence (and climbing into it from below) again and again for about an hour, and taking the excitingly big fall (from skipping a clip) when I blow the last move of the crux. .

 
Sat 25th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
3 more body destroying laps, throwing myself at this thing. Improved a foot placement in the crux and managed to go through the crux in its entirety (in isolation) numerous times. Just need to get to that crux feeling good! Feeling thrashed now.

 
Wed 22nd Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 Queen of the Galaxy Sport 32m, 14 Classic
Psyched! 2nd shot today, 3rd redpoint (+ 4 working laps on the new section, and I also had the Barbarella section more dialled than anyone on the planet). It went down with a fight, and I feel like I've been beaten with a stick at the moment. Unrelenting for 30m of technical pumpiness, then a V3 roof-turn sting in the tail. Probably pretty nails for the grade, but I just dont feel comfortable calling it 27 (its slightly less intense than the full Barbarella.

 
Mon 20th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
3 looong (skin destroying and soul-crushing) laps (throwing myself at the crux relentlessly). Got the moves pretty dialed like never before... but I just cant imagine that I'll ever have the endurance to pull the whole crux off after hiking the initial gr26. This route is toying with me =(

 
Sun 19th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Supernaut Face
26 Master of Puppets (Master of Puppets - Pitch 1 - PROJECT ANDREW) Sport 55m, 13 Classic
2 laps. 1st lap was just piecing together the sequences for Andy (there were moves on this that had never been solved before), and while I did all the sequences, I didnt work anything. Then Andy encouraged me to have a proper redpoint lap for the First Ascent 15min later (he was a bit over this climb), and despite making mistakes and forgetting sequences I did it with just a single fall on a wet hold (before the final hard sequence)... Doh! Hard to get to. Intimidating and committing. With 6 bolts of tough bouldery roof climbing to a no-hands stance. Then easier (23?) climbing for 12m through exposed, steep terrain taking you to the lip of the Great Roof. Utterly spectacular.

 
Sat 18th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 Queen of the Galaxy (Queen of the Galaxy - PROJECT PAUL) Sport 32m, 14 Classic
3 top rope solo laps on the NEW section of the climb before bolting, then one redpoint shot at the end of the day. I actually thought I was about to tick this... but I blew the last hard moves before this climb joins Velvet Morning (though I've since found a better sequence)... but I fell off the hideous top roof of Velvet Morning as well (I havent been on it in 6 months), so its probably not so bad that I botched the lower move. Makes Barbarella a more sustained route (though not as intensely hard), but harder than Velvet Morning (though not as classic).

 
Thu 16th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
1 Lap on lead, and 3 Top Rope laps today. 6th Day on and feeling tired, BUT on the 3rd lap today I made a breakthrough for the first time in about 4 months! Consistently (read: 4 in 5 shots) linking the last 3 moves of the crux, which previously was probably 1 in 5 at best, and worked out a trick footer for Moves 2 and 3 which make it a BIT easier (and less Barndoor-y). Also linked from mid-crux to the top (incl the V3 and V4 boulder sections above) surprisingly easily today. For the first time in MONTHS, I'm psyched for this route! Rest days, and then we'll see where I REALLY stand!

 
Wed 15th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Orange Crush Ledge
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul Sport 25m, 11 Mega Classic
A quick afternoon lap on lead to re-familiarise, re-quip, chalk and clean the route after 2 months off it (and the recent floods). Climbed the opening gr26 to the main crux, then bailed.

 
Wed 15th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 Barberella! Sport 35m Classic
Done and Dusted! First CLEAN repeat of this route! 4th Redpoint shot, 13th lap in total (incl. my Onsight attempt, another ground-up attempt 6 months later, and 7 Top Rope Solo laps when the route was partially wet after the flood). 5th day on, and slightly too hot for ideal conditions... but I went into Warrior Mode in the upper half, and fought and whimpered and screamed through the moves I'd never linked past. I'm bloody glad I didn't blow the final gr23 moves to the roof, or I would've had the biggest whip of my life!

 
Tue 14th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 Barberella! Sport 35m Classic
2 more shots. Both down to a single fall just below the LAST bolt (5m from the anchors), on easier gr23 climbing, but VERY pumped. I skipped the last bolt on the final crux, and had 10m+ falls today (though totally clean air) for much shrieking excitement. I solved the hard (but crucial) clip further down with some Ingvar Ingenuity: incorporating some Climbing tape and some velcro to keep the draw hanging horizontally so I can clip it from my stance. Just need a rest day, and a bit of luck.

 
Mon 13th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 Barberella! Sport 35m Classic
Clean to the 3rd last bolt below the roof-headwall (with only 1 hard-sequence -that I have totally dialed- to go) feeling strong and cruising the moves... But I just can't clip 2 of the bolts on the final 1/3rd of this (the 1st of which will stop a monster ledge-fall, and the 2nd which will be a 10m leadfall if I skip it and blow it), and ended up having to grab a draw to clip with the majority of the route in the bag. It seems that 3 of the bolts on this are about 1.5m right of the climbing line, and my sending fears came true when I was unable to clip the ONE crucial draw that cannot be skipped. Too fucking frustrated to even consider giving this another lap today.

 
27 Barberella Sport 35m Classic
Warmup lap on Top Rope Solo, and to remove my fixed rope from the climb so that I can lead it. Climbed well, though the roof and the headwall above it was a waterfall.

 
Sun 12th Jun 2016 - North Sister
Main Face
25 Now, swallow! - PROJECT GERRY Sport 12m Very Good
2 Top Rope Laps (it's still a Project so there was no point leading it). First lap wasn't clean, due to trying to find the crucial "good" part of the arete slapping section. Very short, and briefly powerful, but interesting arete-slapping and fridge-hugging, heel-hooking around the left-arete, and then again around some sloper-sidepulls to the right. Rad. Will be great when it's finished.

 
22 Lick my Love Pump Sport 25m Classic
Repeat. Clean Placing draws today. Felt harder than I remember it, but the water streak might have contributed to that. Could be 23? Rad technical stemming and beautiful white quartzite.

 
25 Yank Me and Crank Me Sport 22m Very Good
The climbing is awesome, sustained and intense... the rock quality is average (though I didnt break off anything). Straightforward moves, just intense and without any reprieve to chill and breathe. Happy with the flash. Steep crimping with big moves and tricky footers.

 
24 Argo (fukyaself) Sport 30m Very Good
Damn... hung on for all time through the main part of the crux on the flash attempt, only to blow the final sideways deadpoint 1m from the anchors. The start is very average rock, though the climbing is interesting... but the upper headwall is a 2-star section in itself: great rock, committing and improbable climbing, and in a rad exposed position. Too bad theres over 20m of average climbing to get there.

 
Fri 10th Jun 2016 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 Barberella Sport 35m Classic
2 MORE laps on Top Rope Solo. Dry Rock and NO Waterfall today! Still have never linked past the "shield sequence" (2nd crux) in the lower half of the route, but manages (on my 2nd lap today) to link the top 2 cruxes and the entire upper half of the route. Devised a new sequence for the Shield Crux which seems MORE repeatable. Climbing today with weight (2 x #6 Cams, 1 x #5 and 1 x #4) to get more value out of the training laps.

 

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