Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
17 |
★ Maximus
![]() | 13m | ||||
18 |
★ Age of Raisins
![]() | 11m | ||||
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
23 |
★ Pulpy Kidney
![]() | 15m, 2 | Average | |||
Has new bolts, yay.
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15 |
★★ Downward Bound
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Good. You can go over the back to the chains of PK, or scramble off maybe. The direct looks good but doesn't really come together as a route.
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14 |
★★ Mantis
![]() | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing, just a bit greasy
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18 |
★ Preying
![]() | 37m | ★ Good | |||
Top is quite good
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19 |
★ Mandible
![]() | 41m | Average | |||
OK, technical traverse
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26 |
★★★ Ergonomics
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just as well Dave got to this first. I was going to do it on the RP placements. Wouldn't have been so popular!
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25 |
★★ Strolling Right Hand Variant
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
This one's quite good. Placements is better though.
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24 |
★★ Strolling
![]() | 25m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
I think this is 24 and no stars - wandery, hard greasy crux then easy. Just a bit dumb.
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18 |
★ Fang
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
25 |
★★ Placements
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This route is excellent! Really interesting and hard for.. quite long enough.
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18 18 R |
★★ XI
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 23 R |
★ Ferrets and Berts
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
I did the sensible version - up XI to to the top of the crack, then L to the bolt. I found it quite technical, puzzling and blind. Good!
|
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16 |
★ Kamikaze
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Odd, slippery, hard.
|
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15 15 R |
Orc-Wood
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, crap rock and gear.
|
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26 |
Hot Finger
![]() | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
More like 24?
|
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Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area | ||||||
21 |
★ Directathal
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
3 |
★ Ali's
![]() | 60m | Average | |||
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
12 |
★ Bygone
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
20 |
★ Televisual Laxative
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | |||
23 |
Visual Laxative
![]() | 35m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Backed off on lead, crux is probably safe but comitting.
|
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20 19 |
★★★ Morfydd
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit discontinuous, with a hard start. Has always seemed like 20 to me.
|
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24 |
★★ No Standing
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Wandery but good climbing. You don't climb past the pin - you traverse L underneath it. Double ropes are good.
|
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17 |
★ Leadership Spill
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
18 |
★ Housemaid's Knee
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Slightly scary rock and gear.
|
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18 |
★★ Kinkaid (Kincaid)
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
23 |
Kool Aid
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
23 |
★★ Slap Happy
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Desperately hard start
|
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24 |
★ Petrol Solutions
![]() | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, bolts are probably suspect and there's a silly #4RP behind a loose looking flake at the top. At the moment, a good one to toprope off the chains.
|
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15 |
★ The Philanthropist
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty hard for 15
|
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22 21 |
★★ Slap the Philanthropist
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Borderline 22.
|
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22 |
★★ Feral Chicken
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I have got a wire in before the bolt, but it seems to be a very specific size as I have gone up twice subsequently and not been able to place it. Best solution is to take a clip stick!
|
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25 |
★ Feral Fee-box
![]() | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
24 |
★★ Deeply Techo
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
After the alcove I stopped at every move looking for gear as I wasn't convinced about the nest below.. I fell off slapping the jug at the top and went most of the length of the route. The gear was fine!
|
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20 19 |
★★ Firedance
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 |
★★ Dunes Direct
![]() | 100m | ★ Good | |||
16 |
★★ Arab
![]() | 110m | Average | |||
20 |
★★ Scarecrow
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gear is decent all the way. Nicer starting up Saracen p2. Good climbing and position, some cool chickenheads near the top.
|
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16 |
★★ Saracen
![]() | 110m | ★ Good | |||
I like this one. First pitch is sustained and challenging for it's first half. A bit of a ramble then second pitch is good too.
|
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13 |
★ Lawrence
![]() | 100m | Don't Bother | |||
Not worth it for one good section!
|
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
24 |
Nurse, Increase the Sedatives
![]() | 10m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
25 |
Stage Right
![]() | 15m, 2 | Average | |||
25 |
★★ No Exit
![]() | 65m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Backed off second pitch - I'll try taking a big cam for the pocket. Seemed committing pulling over the bulge.
|
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26 |
★★ Cecil B De Mille
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool past the pillar.. I wish the chip was bigger! Nearly fell off every move after the crux to the top. Was too pumped to put the wire in so it was pretty exciting!
|
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23 22 |
★★ Dreadnought Variant
![]() | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 |
★★ Dreadlots
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
24 |
★★ Dreadnought
![]() | 54m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The second pitch is the only route I have gotten up before Nick Sutter! I find the first pitch desperate, especially placing the gear. The second pitch is desperate too, but only for a few moves, then it's easy.
|
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22 22 R |
★ Jeepers
![]() | 8m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
The bolt is rubbish, and you might hit the ground off the crux even if it held.
|
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
24 |
★ The Real Thing
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
22 |
★★★ Los Endos
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Loose feeling and not that well protected. Double ropes are good.
|
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24 |
★★ Breezin'
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A really good wire at half height, then that's it.
|
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21 |
★ Not Like a Hurricane
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
18 17 |
★ Oh Bondage
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle | ||||||
21 |
The Garden's Full of Furniture
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Felt loose and poorly protected
|
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21 19 |
★ Pestilence
![]() | 20m, 2 | Average | |||
I did this before the bolts went in, thinking it was The Garden's Full of Furniture - the upper section probably is. Start is reachy and hard for 19 unless you come in from Scourge
|
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20 20 R |
★ Scourge
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Gear is ok but pumpy to place
|
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22 |
★ Kinky Kupple
![]() | 17m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Was very serious before the bolt went in!
|
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
20 |
★ Wild Oats
![]() | 70m | ★ Good | |||
I found the first pitch quite runout after the start (even going R)
|
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18 |
Non-Saraband Route-like Substitute
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
22 |
I Can't Believe it's not Chaconne
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
23 24 |
★★ Jilted
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.
|
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21 |
Saraband
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Hard start which is difficult to protect. Not the greatest rock. Top crack is nice. I was surprised by a nesting bronzewing pigeon exploding out of her nest at about half height.
|
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
19 |
Hassan
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
25 |
Cuddly Fat
![]() | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Crap with a chipped hold.
|
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25 |
★★ Non-Stop
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 |
★★ On High
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
11 |
Freckled Duck
![]() | 26m | Average | |||
Tres vegetated
|
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24 |
★ Revolution Rock Low Start
![]() | Average | ||||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★ Girls on Bikes
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Top crux is very reachy. Climbing is good, but not awesome.
|
||||||
24 |
★★★ Intransience
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
26 |
★ Clap Hands
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
The bottom bit is quite good. Second shot.
|
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22 |
★★ Cecilia
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 |
★ Johns Corner
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
19 |
Up In My Bedroom
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
Could actually be ok if it ever got any traffic
|
||||||
23 23 R |
★ Moving Right Along
![]() | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Finish is runout, not the start.
|
||||||
19 18 |
★ Femroc
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
I find the crux awkward and hard for the grade.. and the top bit thin on gear. Climbing is ok though.
|
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21 |
★★ Droop Street
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy to place the gear. Good climbing but all over after 10m
|
||||||
20 |
★★ Electric Warrior
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
A very slippery crux down low. Pretty slippery up high too!
|
||||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 |
★ Power Crazy
![]() | 28m | Don't Bother | |||
Takes lots of blue aliens - but the climbing's not that great
|
||||||
14 |
★★ Megalomaniac
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | ||||||
24 |
★ Deep Throat
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
A bit thin on gear
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | ||||||
24 23 |
★ Strapping
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
One very hard move...
|
||||||
21 |
Saddle Sore
![]() | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
very short and a bit scrappy
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | ||||||
9 |
★ Hope
![]() | 16m | ★ Good | |||
14 |
★★ Loyalty
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
7 |
★ Charity
![]() | 14m | ★ Good | |||
5 |
★ Sincerity
![]() | 14m | ★ Good | |||
15 |
★ Bozo
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good for a micro route!
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 |
★★ Jackal
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nice
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
16 |
★ Jed's Climb
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
19 |
★★ Quisling
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Some days this is desperate, some days it's fine!
|
||||||
22 |
★★ Quisling Direct Start
![]() | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical and pumpy placing the gear
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Tannin Direct
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 |
★ Hornpipe
![]() | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 |
★ Crescendo
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Buandik Area The Gallery | ||||||
26 26 R |
★★ Gorilla Tactics
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
24 |
★★ Two Tribes
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
23 |
★★ Chain of Fools
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good |