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Ascents in Victoria as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 970 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 25th Dec 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
24 Free Will - with Geordie Webb Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.

 
Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle
22 Fine Tune - with Wendy Eden Trad 16m Average
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.

 
Sun 13th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall
21 Amazing Lace Direct Start Trad 23m Good
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good

 
Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
22 Family Food - with becca saurus Trad 20m Good
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux

 
Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Running Amok - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.

 
Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
23 Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 35m, 2 Good
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.

 
Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
19 Silent Senile Running Foxes - with Wendy Eden Trad 35m Good
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.

 
16 Heart Full of Soul - with Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy Trad 60m Good
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.

 
21 Only Fools Eat Marmite Trad 30m Good
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
18 Perpetual Standstill - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark Trad 40m Good
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!

 
13 Sundowner - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark Trad 30m Good
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.

 
22 Cream Between - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Good
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.

 
Sat 28th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
23 Walking Amok Trad 15m Very Good
Mon 23rd May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
21 Meekly Unconcerned Trad 15m Good
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!

 
Sat 21st May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
23 22 Running Amok - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!

 
Wed 18th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
24 23 Walking Simulator Mixed trad 12m, 2 Good
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.

 
17 16 Guider not a climber - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Good
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.

 
Sun 15th May 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
19 Coeur de Lion - with Wendy Eden Trad 43m Classic
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.

 
Sat 14th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Under Control - with Ben Weissner Trad 30m Average
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier

 
Sun 1st May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
17 Armchair critic - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Average
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.

 
21 Ice is Nice - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Average
Felt hard even on tr.

 
Sun 10th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
15 No Space for Boxes Trad 30m Average
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
20 Stillborn - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Good
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.

 
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
17 Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) Trad 4m Don't Bother
20 Greg Will be Pleased - with Wendy Eden Trad 9m Don't Bother
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.

 
22 Greg will be Amused - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 10m, 2 Average
22 Lou Direct - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
Probably better than the original

 
24 Man on the Land - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.

 
Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
23 Procrastinationable - with Wendy Eden Trad 26m Good
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.

 
Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Shiralee Wall
8 Cold Episode of Influenza - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Good
Nice!

 
15 I am a Banana Expert - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 2 Good
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.

 
18 Great Sleeping Weather - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 3 Good
Good fun, three interesting sections

 
17 Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 2 Average
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.

 
17 17 R The Crumpet Didn't Front - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Good
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.

 
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area
The Ravine
20 18 Point Perpetrator - with Wendy Eden Sport 17m, 6 Good
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.

 
22 21 Minced Beef Eaters - with Wendy Eden Sport 20m Good
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.

 
20 21 Lake Thelma - with Wendy Eden Sport 18m, 7 Good
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
17 Ed's Super Sarnie - with Ben Weissner Trad 15m Average
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.

 
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
17 The Nile - with Kieran Lawton Trad 110m Very Good
Great climbing on the middle pitch.

 
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Shiralee Wall
20 The Shiralee Direct - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.

 
14 Dingbats - with Wendy Eden Trad 50m Crap
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.

 
17 Banshee - with Wendy Eden Trad 50m Don't Bother
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star

 
Sat 19th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
19 Grand Design - with Gareth Llewellin Mixed trad 54m, 1 Very Good
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.

 
Wed 16th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
10 The Serpent's Venom - with Wendy Eden Trad 60m Good
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup

 
Sun 13th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
15 Is It About A Bicycle? - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.

 
6 Jack-a-Dandy - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Average
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner

 
Sat 12th Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area
The Ravine
18 Hey Youse Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.

 
19 Waterfall Bogans - with Clive Curson Sport 18m, 7 Good
Really nice incut holds.

 
23 Pain Criminals Link-up - with Geordie Webb Sport 18m, 9 Very Good
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds

 
19 Pains Ford Sport 18m, 8 Very Good
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied

 
20 Try Land Sport 17m, 7 Good
21 Brush with Authority - with Clive Curson Sport 15m, 6 Good
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that

 
19 18 Glue Mountains - with Geordie Webb Sport 20m, 8 Good
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day

 
17 18 Gaybarry - with Geordie Webb Sport 20m, 7 Good
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.

 
Thu 3rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
20 Eye Spy Trad 30m Good
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.

 
Thu 4th Feb 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
17 A Night to Remember - with Kate Dooley Trad 15m Good
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.

 
Mon 18th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Puggle Burrow Trad 26m Average
Maybe easier if you're tall?

 
20 Indecisivity Mixed trad 15m, 5 Good
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?

 
23 Misunderestimated Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
18 19 No Turning Back Trad 20m Good
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.

 
22 Totally Foxed! Trad 20m Good
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.

 
19 Unemploid - with Kate Dooley Trad 15m Don't Bother
Just one move then suss rock and gear.

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
18 19 Frontispiece - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Don't Bother
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back

 
Sun 10th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Pritchard's Neuralgia Trad 26m Good
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.

 
12 Eat Your Greens - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Good
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff
22 Cocky Calamity - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Very Good
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.

 
18 Skirt Alert - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Good
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging

 
19 Udder Shudder - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Good
18 Spare Rib - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Average
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Town Cliffs The Radiator
19 Hot - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Very Good
The route to do, good climbing and position.

 
22 Feel the Heat - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Good
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge

 
19 The Only Way is Up - with Wendy Eden Trad 26m Average
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.

 
14 Dirty Work - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Average
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall
17 Checkpoint Charlie - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 5 Average
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.

 
22 21 Sacred Ground - with Wendy Eden Sport 25m, 5 Very Good
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?

 
22 Sprung - with Wendy Eden Sport 25m, 6 Classic
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area
Bundaleer
17 Gerontian - with Zoe Wilkinson Trad 46m Very Good
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.

 
24 The Price You Pay Direct Trad 20m Average
18 Island Cruise Trad 30m Average
17 Odysseus Trad 84m Average
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.

 
12 Scarab Mixed trad 59m, 1 Good
Wandery but has some good bits

 
16 The Frog - with Wendy Eden Trad 45m Very Good
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016

 
19 Crash Dive Trad 25m Don't Bother
Poor rock

 
21 Pathos Trad 28m Very Good
20 Blanketty Blank Trad 28m Average
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?

 
24 25 Bliss Trad 20m Good
25 Ostler Trad 60m Good
Thin and hard

 
21 20 Blimp Mixed trad 25m, 1 Classic
22 Lunging for Melons Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Very odd!

 
25 Manic Depressive - with Paul Hoskins Sport 20m, 7 Classic
25 24 Fistful of Steel Trad 15m Average
27 Angular Perspective (to first chain) - with Dave Jones Sport 12m Classic
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.

 
Sun 13th Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Pet Parsley Mixed trad 30m, 1 Good
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile

 
Sat 12th Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
13 Blue Toes Trad 15m Good
Thin on gear in upper half.

 
13 15 Greenfingers Trad 15m Good
Thin on gear in upper half.

 
18 Brown Thumb - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.

 
19 I Am Not A Pork Chop Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.

 
Sat 5th Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
14 Pitchfork - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Average
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.

 
15 A Weed in the Garden - with Wendy Eden Trad 26m Good
Good climbing all the way. Fun.

 
16 Babylon - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Very Good
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 970 ascents.

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