Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 25th Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Free Will - with Geordie Webb | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | Fine Tune - with Wendy Eden | 16m | Average | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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Sun 13th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 | Amazing Lace Direct Start | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good
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Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - with becca saurus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Running Amok - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.
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Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes - with Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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16 | Heart Full of Soul - with Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy | 60m | ★ Good | |||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 | ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 40m | ★ Good | |||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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13 | ★ Sundowner - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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22 | ★ Cream Between - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Good | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Sat 28th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Walking Amok | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 23rd May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Meekly Unconcerned | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!
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Sat 21st May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Running Amok - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!
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Wed 18th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
24 23 | ★ Walking Simulator | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.
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17 16 | ★ Guider not a climber - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.
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Sun 15th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion - with Wendy Eden | 43m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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Sat 14th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | Under Control - with Ben Weissner | 30m | Average | |||
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier
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Sun 1st May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
17 | Armchair critic - with Wendy Eden | 15m | Average | |||
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.
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21 | ★ Ice is Nice - with Wendy Eden | 12m | Average | |||
Felt hard even on tr.
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Sun 10th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ No Space for Boxes | 30m | Average | |||
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Stillborn - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.
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Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
17 | Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) | 4m | Don't Bother | |||
20 | Greg Will be Pleased - with Wendy Eden | 9m | Don't Bother | |||
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.
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22 | Greg will be Amused - with Wendy Eden | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
22 | ★ Lou Direct - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Probably better than the original
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24 | ★ Man on the Land - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
23 | Procrastinationable - with Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Good | |||
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
8 | ★ Cold Episode of Influenza - with Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nice!
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15 | ★ I am a Banana Expert - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.
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18 | Great Sleeping Weather - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, three interesting sections
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17 | Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | Average | |||
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.
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17 17 R | ★ The Crumpet Didn't Front - with Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 18 | ★ Point Perpetrator - with Wendy Eden | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.
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22 21 | ★ Minced Beef Eaters - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.
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20 21 | ★ Lake Thelma - with Wendy Eden | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
17 | Ed's Super Sarnie - with Ben Weissner | 15m | Average | |||
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Nile - with Kieran Lawton | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing on the middle pitch.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ The Shiralee Direct - with Wendy Eden | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.
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14 | Dingbats - with Wendy Eden | 50m | Crap | |||
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.
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17 | Banshee - with Wendy Eden | 50m | Don't Bother | |||
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star
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Sat 19th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Grand Design - with Gareth Llewellin | 54m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.
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Wed 16th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
10 | ★ The Serpent's Venom - with Wendy Eden | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup
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Sun 13th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Is It About A Bicycle? - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 | Jack-a-Dandy - with Wendy Eden | 12m | Average | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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Sat 12th Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
18 | ★ Hey Youse | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.
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19 | ★ Waterfall Bogans - with Clive Curson | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Really nice incut holds.
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23 | ★★ Pain Criminals Link-up - with Geordie Webb | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds
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19 | ★★ Pains Ford | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied
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20 | ★★ Try Land | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★ Brush with Authority - with Clive Curson | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that
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19 18 | ★ Glue Mountains - with Geordie Webb | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day
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17 18 | ★ Gaybarry - with Geordie Webb | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.
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Thu 3rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Eye Spy | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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Thu 4th Feb 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
17 | A Night to Remember - with Kate Dooley | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.
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Mon 18th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Puggle Burrow | 26m | Average | |||
Maybe easier if you're tall?
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20 | ★ Indecisivity | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?
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23 | ★★ Misunderestimated | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ No Turning Back | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
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22 | ★ Totally Foxed! | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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19 | Unemploid - with Kate Dooley | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
18 19 | Frontispiece - with Wendy Eden | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back
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Sun 10th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Pritchard's Neuralgia | 26m | ★ Good | |||
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.
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12 | ★ Eat Your Greens - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | ||||||
22 | ★ Cocky Calamity - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.
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18 | ★★ Skirt Alert - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging
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19 | ★ Udder Shudder - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Spare Rib - with Wendy Eden | 20m | Average | |||
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Town Cliffs The Radiator | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hot - with Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The route to do, good climbing and position.
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22 | ★ Feel the Heat - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge
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19 | The Only Way is Up - with Wendy Eden | 26m | Average | |||
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.
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14 | Dirty Work - with Wendy Eden | 25m | Average | |||
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Checkpoint Charlie - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | Average | |||
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.
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22 21 | ★ Sacred Ground - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?
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22 | ★★ Sprung - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
17 | ★★ Gerontian - with Zoe Wilkinson | 46m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.
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24 | The Price You Pay Direct | 20m | Average | |||
18 | ★★ Island Cruise | 30m | Average | |||
17 | ★★ Odysseus | 84m | Average | |||
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.
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12 | ★★ Scarab | 59m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Wandery but has some good bits
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16 | ★★ The Frog - with Wendy Eden | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016
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19 | Crash Dive | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
Poor rock
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21 | ★★★ Pathos | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | ★★ Blanketty Blank | 28m | Average | |||
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?
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24 25 | ★★ Bliss | 20m | ★ Good | |||
25 | ★★ Ostler | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Thin and hard
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21 20 | ★★★ Blimp | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
22 | ★★ Lunging for Melons | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very odd!
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25 | ★★ Manic Depressive - with Paul Hoskins | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
25 24 | Fistful of Steel | 15m | Average | |||
27 | ★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain) - with Dave Jones | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.
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Sun 13th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pet Parsley | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile
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Sat 12th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
13 | Blue Toes | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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13 15 | ★ Greenfingers | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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18 | ★ Brown Thumb - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.
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19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.
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Sat 5th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
14 | Pitchfork - with Wendy Eden | 40m | Average | |||
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.
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15 | ★ A Weed in the Garden - with Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing all the way. Fun.
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16 | ★ Babylon - with Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.
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