Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 |
Fine Tune
![]() | 16m | Average | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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Sun 13th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 |
Amazing Lace Direct Start
![]() | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good
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Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★ Family Food
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 |
★★ Running Amok
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.
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Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 |
★ Silent Senile Running Foxes
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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16 |
Heart Full of Soul
![]() | 60m | ★ Good | |||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 |
★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
18 |
★ Perpetual Standstill
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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22 |
★ Cream Between
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Sat 28th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 |
★★ Walking Amok
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 23rd May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
21 |
★ Meekly Unconcerned
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!
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Sat 21st May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 22 |
★★ Running Amok
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!
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Wed 18th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
24 23 |
★ Walking Simulator
![]() | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.
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17 16 |
★ Guider not a climber
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.
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Sun 15th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 |
★★ Coeur de Lion
![]() | 43m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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Sun 1st May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
17 |
Armchair critic
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.
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Sun 10th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 |
★ No Space for Boxes
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
20 |
★ Stillborn
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.
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Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
17 |
Lou's Not 19 (Anymore)
![]() | 4m | Don't Bother | |||
20 |
Greg Will be Pleased
![]() | 9m | Don't Bother | |||
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.
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22 |
Greg will be Amused
![]() | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
22 |
★ Lou Direct
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Probably better than the original
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
23 |
Procrastinationable
![]() | 26m | ★ Good | |||
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
8 |
★ Cold Episode of Influenza
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nice!
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15 |
★ I am a Banana Expert
![]() | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.
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18 |
Great Sleeping Weather
![]() | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, three interesting sections
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17 |
Tallness is something Other People Suffer From
![]() | 25m, 2 | Average | |||
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.
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17 17 R |
★ The Crumpet Didn't Front
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 18 |
★ Point Perpetrator
![]() | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.
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22 21 |
★ Minced Beef Eaters
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.
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20 21 |
★ Lake Thelma
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
17 |
Ed's Super Sarnie
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
17 |
★★ The Nile
![]() | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing on the middle pitch.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
20 |
★ The Shiralee Direct
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.
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14 |
Dingbats
![]() | 50m | Crap | |||
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.
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17 |
Banshee
![]() | 50m | Don't Bother | |||
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star
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Sat 19th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 |
★★ Grand Design
![]() | 54m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.
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Wed 16th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
10 |
★ The Serpent's Venom
![]() | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup
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Sun 13th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 |
★ Is It About A Bicycle?
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 |
Jack-a-Dandy
![]() | 12m | Average | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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Sat 12th Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
18 |
★ Hey Youse
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.
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19 |
★ Waterfall Bogans
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Really nice incut holds.
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19 |
★★ Pains Ford
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied
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20 |
★★ Try Land
![]() | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★ Brush with Authority
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that
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19 18 |
★ Glue Mountains
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day
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17 18 |
★ Gaybarry
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.
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Thu 3rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 |
★ Eye Spy
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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Thu 4th Feb 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
17 |
A Night to Remember
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.
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Mon 18th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 |
Puggle Burrow
![]() | 26m | Average | |||
Maybe easier if you're tall?
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20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 |
★★ No Turning Back
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
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22 |
★ Totally Foxed!
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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19 |
Unemploid
![]() | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
18 19 |
Frontispiece
![]() | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back
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Sun 10th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 |
Pritchard's Neuralgia
![]() | 26m | ★ Good | |||
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.
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12 |
★ Eat Your Greens
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | ||||||
22 |
★ Cocky Calamity
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.
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18 |
★★ Skirt Alert
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging
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19 |
★ Udder Shudder
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
18 |
★ Spare Rib
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Town Cliffs The Radiator | ||||||
19 |
★★ Hot
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The route to do, good climbing and position.
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22 |
★ Feel the Heat
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge
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19 |
The Only Way is Up
![]() | 26m | Average | |||
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.
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14 |
Dirty Work
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | ||||||
17 |
★ Checkpoint Charlie
![]() | 25m, 5 | Average | |||
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.
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22 21 |
★ Sacred Ground
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?
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22 |
★★ Sprung
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
17 |
★★ Gerontian
![]() | 46m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.
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18 |
★★ Island Cruise
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
17 |
★★ Odysseus
![]() | 84m | Average | |||
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.
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12 |
★★ Scarab
![]() | 59m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Wandery but has some good bits
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16 |
★★ The Frog
![]() | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016
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20 |
★★ Blanketty Blank
![]() | 28m | Average | |||
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?
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Sun 13th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 |
★ Pet Parsley
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile
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Sat 12th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
13 |
Blue Toes
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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13 15 |
★ Greenfingers
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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18 |
★ Brown Thumb
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.
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19 |
★ I Am Not A Pork Chop
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.
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Sat 5th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
14 |
Pitchfork
![]() | 40m | Average | |||
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.
|
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15 |
★ A Weed in the Garden
![]() | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing all the way. Fun.
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16 |
★ Babylon
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.
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16 |
★ John Thomas
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
Pretty hard and not very protected start. Not as good as the others.
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15 14 |
★ Wild Mountain Thyme
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Worth a star - worthwhile
|
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18 |
★ Access
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 4th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I find the start greasy and horrible - and not that well protected. I much prefer the LH start - which is not well protected, but not greasy or horrible.
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10 10 R |
★★★ Eskimo Nell LH start
![]() | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 |
Live Footage
![]() | 35m | Don't Bother | |||
Looks good but isn't, Scarecrow is the route to do.
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Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | ||||||
21 |
★★ Parsley
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.
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21 |
★ Sage
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.
|
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18 |
★ Rosemary
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, plenty of gear.
|
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Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 |
No Place for Foxes
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 |
★ Shanghai
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
Same unprotected bouldery start as Shalimar. Take a big cam for the pocket. Rock's probably not great.
|
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Sun 29th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
16 |
★★ Absolutely Fabulous
![]() | 88m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great! As good as Skylark but maybe easier.
|
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
9 |
★ The Parson's Nose
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | |||
17 |
★ Beelzebub
![]() | 27m | Average | |||
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock Deacon Area | ||||||
15 |
★ Deacons Dilemma
![]() | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Harder than it looks
|
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9 |
Gloop
![]() | 16m | Average | |||
9 |
★ The Priest
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
15 |
★ Hollingworth and the Little Boy
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Remarkably worthwhile, looks like nothing.
|