Routes in Victoria

New anchor installed Dec 2010 (also services Jocey and the Pussycats).

Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch. Start at halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder Dust. Follow the 4FHs up the arête, moving to the right-hand side at the 3rd FH. (25m rap) (DRB anchor as of March 2024 - ignore fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon)

Thin face with two FH's. Hard moves are located in the bottom half. The top half is technically easy but hard to protect.

Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out.

Proj

Approach from either direction. Up via the large side pull pinch.

Start as for Carnivore, move right and up the break through the left side of bulge.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height.

Sit start as for Mount to gain the crack, hand traverse the rail left (keep hands below/in crack) to join and finish as for Bridle.

SDS matched on the lumpy jug. Edge and dish on the shield and then array of equally poor features above.

Alternately can start on jugs of the Inbetweener, traversing left to NE prow start holds to link with Underground Resistance at V6 (dotted line - aka Short Circuit).

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Uhuru channel

Start between 'Continental Drift' and 'Buffalo Soldier', head up and right to clip the 2nd bolt on CD, then left to BS, finishing right over semi-detached block/flake.

Start as for Sneaky Snake but finish after "only" 35m, at the Nether anchor. Some tricky rope management is needed, with some tricky sideways runouts at the grade, but worth it.

Start on the ground on the right arete. Go two blocks up and traverse high and left, going up and down as appropriate. Make sure you have a partner moving pads.

Large crack 4 metres right of Fred

Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux. Or better and harder as Howling Wolf (same grade).

SDS Delicate face finishing over the top block direct

SDS with pockets, head up with some big moves between great holds.

Starting right of 'Cave Club' and heading rightwards across the wall. Still unclimbed?

SDS Right side of the arete.

Thin pocketed slab between the scoop and ledge to the right and arete to the left. Has been climbed at an easier grade using the scoop but is better without.

First route with bolts on the wall. Traverse Left across wall 2 FH and up slab on trad gear.

SBS Right on the flake and left very low undercling slot either side of the arete. Long move up left to a good sidepull then up via pockets and edges. Large jug on the left face is out.

Let's leave it at 25 and see what people think... And try not to fall off at end of crux which could be bad for your ankles. Contrived but fun climbing up underside of arête of red wall left of limbo. Start at rightmost RB them left past 4 more to chain anchor. Stay below lip throughout. At last bolt avoid the temptation to follow holds up right and make a few more moves up overhung left face (crux) to mantle.

Sit start to the right of Charlies Sex Tour on right slanting holds and traverse onto the lower line of slopers. Finish up into Bubble Trouble.

The microbrewery is located half way down the Southern descent. Hardest part climbing the problems in this mini cave is keeping off the ground. Recommend only using a tarp as it allows additional clearance!

SDS cramped in the back of the cave on double underclings.

Outstanding! Adds 4m of V6 to Migration. Start up TCOIA then left via edges on FTS to join Migration via excellent technical sequence. Lip of Boulder and jugs on detached block are out.

Located on the separate block just below the main walls. Takes the right side of the face. SDS crimp for the L, Right arete for the R. Only rear section of the pedestal base for the feet.

More of the same. Initialled weakness 37m right of G, 25m left of The Ogive.

Start far right with good pinch on the arete for your right and small crimp pinch for the left. One powerful campus gets you to the rail and on from there. Unsure of the grade

Continues up corner and out right.

thin crack just right of MDTG

The short thin crack just right of BoS

Just left of insomnia. Sit start low on flake and move up.

Fantastic flat edges bust up the unlikely golden wall just right of Aretika. Start move is the hardest although a tenuous move or two near the top as well.

20m Uphill from the Font boulder is small arete.

See pitch 4 of 'Skywalker'

The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish.

Traverse seam right then head up thin edges to DRB at the top.

crouch start on the opposing sidepulls down on the right and then up on cracks and crimps (problem is just right of Compression Problem). Likely to have been done back in the day - placeholder name and grade, please correct if you can.

BL. SDS crack

Start on the right arete and climb up left on edges to top out over the peak.

Has a lot of loose blocks.

The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

Closed project, please stay off. Will be a mega pitch up the full height of the crag. As for Sirocco p1 until halfway across the traverse. Now head up flakes onto the blank grey wall, then head rightish to a brilliant orange scoop/arête, eventually joining Malcolm’s It might go project just before the crux, follow this to the top of the wall. Bolts and trad.

Starts right of the tree and follows some lighter granite passing crystal dikes and an easy stance.

This route is a sit start that uses only the features of the wall to climb up to the bricks. (This route is named after a species of grass that I think grows near the wall a reference to the sit start on the grass)

The arete on the L at the middle of the upper tier. Sit start on the flat big hold on the L and low R crimp. Up and R to finish as for Lystie Slip.

Note: flat hold on the left has broken off. Re-established with two hands on low crimp. Punch for the jug on the arete before continuing with the original climb. Hard V5.

The obvious hand crack facing the road. Beware of its namesake in the crack!