Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Starts at undercut corner 3m left of Fried Flake. Awkward but well protected move off the boulders below the corner. Up to block and around right to exit.

Start at the flake about 1.5m off the ledge and 3m left of Calamari Corner.

300m R upstream of Shale Inferno at the only shimney. The lose chimney, belaying near the track above.

Starts down lower, 10m right of "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib).

Starts at base of flake, up steep wall for 5m and onto easing angle continuing to follow crack. SS then follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain) staying left of the steep wall to right. Up this stain to join the right facing crack above the vegetation.

Above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

Follow the jaw line L of Cachalot up.

Squeeze chimney on the higher downhill face of the main tor. Keeping in higher up. start at other end of gully or from lower ground for a slightly harder chimney, still no pro.

LH corner of face

Arete. BR

Narrow Arete on L. 2BR. Solo FA

Corner crack. Solo FA

Up narrow face R of crack that is Pedestal. BR.

Up on boulder to L of Bifurcation. Solo FA.

R of Tao

Further R on loose holds past 2BR.

R of H, The face. BB

Start directly below the second leg of the dog leg crack and go up.

Go straight up to BB after the first leg of the dog leg crack

The crack R of arete

Arete near uphill end of East face. 1BR

2m R of WoP using the same BR as that climb

Arete on L side of S face. 2BR

2m uphill and L of Left most arête on Southern face of Major Buttress. 3BR. BB

Left side of pinnacle after pulling around cap. RB, 2BR. BB

About 60m to the west is a Pyramid shaped rock that is accessible at low tide. Hop accross the boulders to the north facing wall. Scramble down the back (ocean side) and traverse either way to get off. From the belay seat just above the water line head up thew wall on flakes until an obvious R leading black crack is reached at about 10m. Follow this to the top.

When looking out this is the obvious groove on the L side of the 2nd pinnacle. Reach it at Low tide. Climb it past a runner at 6m, the top is temporary.

On the face of Pulpit Rock facing the Pinnacles. 3m L of the steep central chimney at the foot of a diagonal line running up L.

1. 16m 8 (crux) Climb the groove to a small cave on the L wall.

2. 15m Follow the line to the top.

Obvious crack 2 or so meters left of Falling Rock

At far right of lowest tier climb to small cave. Exit left and follow seam to large ledge. Carefully navigate the chose pile at the back of the ledge to top out.

Up crack and slab on R arete of rocks 15 m Sth of Double Boots

Straight up from low point of slab, past crack and up steeper section. No Pro.

L of crack, up and over flake

Jam crack on L end of face to break then over to top

Mossy slab to R of WAIDH?

Crack, R, the bulge 5m R of AG

Middle of slab R of Mary

Up the corner crack on a N-S running face approx 40 m N of Baal Rock

As for CU Jimmy, but bridge.

Approx 10 m L of Lay it on the Lip Line and R of and above Tensor. The short, thin slab.

Start R of Seaspray. Up Slab

Straight up after starting as for WH

L edge of face. No Pro

Vague crack on L side of slab

If you follow the main boulders anti clockwise you will find this nice looking diagonal hand crack. Taking a stab at the grade... which appears to have been lost in the mists of time for now.

Obvious flaring crack left of Frogs Hollow. Good placements beneath the leaf debris. Double RB belay.

At top of Greenpeace gully is an obvious short hand crack flake. Climb it, it’s fun.

Start as per LBFF to first bolt then follow the lovely dyke left to two more bolts.

The first climb in the area. The curving chimney on the top pinnacle.

Easy crack 4m right of Beater Blockers

Crack 1m right of Rainbow

next wide crackwith nice moves through first steepness

A short distance down the access ramp, a tree grows out of a horizontal crack below a couple of mossy lines (they were clean in 1980) Up the cracked wall L of the tree to below the L hand line. There are no anchors and the stances are poor. The hardest bit is the start.

1. 22m (6) Start below the chimney, up to it till a good ledge.

2. 28m (8) Follow to top of crack

3. 20m (5) And up to top of cliff

At second pitch traverse 7m L. Then go up and left making sure to stay R of a small overhang. Over overhang go up and R to rejoin main line.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

A traverse / girdle from the lower slabs of Sugarloaf, across flypaper wall, main wall and eventually finishing at the very top of Sugarloaf itself. Most of the climbing is easy grade 2-6 traversing, with the sections from baghdad to black streak being slightly harder grade 8-10. There are many variations and belay oppertunities but would be best simul climbed.

From the lowest slabs, or you can even start from the 'Left Route' and climb up and over some blocks, start traversing 5-10m above the ground until onto the main face. From here trend a bit higher and try hit the bolt on baghdad. From here follow some seems and breaks over Cherry flake and black streak. Follow your nose and you will likely find yourself just above the black streak DBB. After this there is a bit of jungle bashing before a very nice clean streak of rock to the top.

Likely done before but recording here for budding adventure climbers. Probably worth 1.5 stars due to novelty and length in a nice position.

Goes from the bottom of the left side, up and around avoiding the steepest/hardest bit of the face.

"Poorly protected, and a waste of time." From 1988 Eastern District Guide and I doubt it has improved with time. Start at the RH edge of Central Buttress.

1. 34m Up to the old bolt on Mein Kampf.

2. 9m Up to a small stance and piton below the overhang.

3. 34m Surmount the overhang then diagonally left into the crack. Up, then left into gully.

4. 27m Grovel up.

5. Continue grovelling.

The middle crack splitting the blocks

Up the corner of the same boulder, but on the edge of the boulder between the two. One again nice holds and not to long/high.

Up the corner of the same boulder as Triangulation and Side on, but on the edge of the boulder between the two. One again nice holds and not to long/high.

( There is a buttress below the Amphitheatre with the next 4 climbs )

On the left side of the buttress below and right of Cella. Up and over the prominent flake.

About 2m right of Hydra. 1. 25m The left side of the slab to a ledge. 2. 8m Step across and climb the crack behind. Diagonally over the boulders to below a shattered groove. 3. 22m The groove.

Starts 3m right of Keres. Initialled.

1. 14m The easy slab. Now has 2 bolt brackets and a ring lower off at the ledge. (Take a 2cm nut to place 2m up and right past the 2nd bolt, if you dont like the run out)

2. 70m Move the belay 60m right (is this a rock climb or a bushwalk?) to below a short groove and then climb it.

Starts 2m right of Prometheus Direct at the chimney/groove. Up the groove until you can traverse left to the flake and over it.

Three metres right of Athena. Initialled. Up the bulging juggy wall, a good route, almost worth a star.

1. 30m. A groove on the wall facing the road, to the ledge. Left on ledges to a crack. Up this, then easily to below a ridge.

2. 40m. Go halfway up ridge, step right to finish up the crack.

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

Okay climb with a little bit of caving. 1) 21m (8) Climb Dummy bidder all the way to the top and then belay. 2) 18m (7) Head right at the top of Dummy bidder and make your way around large boulder. Belay behind the boulder. 3) 8m (8) Here is the fun part head up tricky wall and through the small tunnel. Belay after tunnel. 4) 12m (3) head up the wall and belay at Black Magic area and then walk off.

Start in Chimney left of Grey Arete, continue up chimney, to a slabby finish. Don't mind the moss, that rains down on you with any slight breeze. Claimed to have been climbed in 2018 probably more like 1960s when that kinda climbing was all the rages.

Crack right of One's a Crowd