Routes with min 3 stars in South Coast

Climb the arete and left face. A tricky start leads to great climbing and a slightly daunting top-out.

Start at the thin crack and traverse rightwards to finish at Mongrel. Great slab climbing on sharp holds with a sting in the tail.

Sit start at the base of the obvious overhanging prow. Slap up to glory and an easy top out. Short and sweet - an instant classic!

Stand start. Up the slabbiest section of the boulder. Gets thin up high! https://youtu.be/hnhmankwUhs?t=90

Stand start. Up the highball scoop with good edges and flakes. An all time mega classic on the hill. https://youtu.be/hnhmankwUhs?t=207

Epic highball! Stand start with edges and up with tricky moves into a heady top section where you still have to keep it together.

Sit start on the left of the rail as for 'Bush Tucker Man' (On the juggiest part of the rail). Head left through the bulge with crimp and sloper to top out straight up the flake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tF42vd-liTI

Start on the far right on the slanting flat rail and traverse leftwards along the juggy rail to link into 'Gangajang'. Adds a half or full grade making the crux section surprisingly desperate! https://youtu.be/_o-OaZoScnE

Stand start as low as possible on the arete - low slopey left hand crimp and lowest part of right hand sidepull rail. Awesome moves up the arete then escape left to the juggy flake and up into the slab. All time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I3WyF3wzwM

Needs a clean. High and proud... one for someone a bit braver! Same start but avoid going left to the jug and instead take a direct line up the arete - adding a sketchy crux getting your feet sorted to navigate the bulge after the first crux.

With a lot more cleaning there is probably a right exit too - but it looks a bit sharp and chossy

Sit start on opposing jugs on the far right (right side pull, left hand flat jug) take the rising traverse left to top out through the obvious juggy flake. https://vimeo.com/314673203

Sit start the overhanging arete with left hand on low crimp and right hand on the arete. Tricky move to get up the arete and match. https://youtu.be/wz02zgv3gxQ

Sit start as Kingslayer low on crack but head straight up with a heinous move to a sharp crimp then out to jugs and an intimidating but easy upper section.

https://youtu.be/T8qFdbWNxgY

Sit start. Follow the thin rising crack with small crimps. This will be an epic! Possibly V13+

Sit start down low in the hole. Up the obvious crack. Highball with an awkward landing

Stand start. Up using the arete and left face. Tenuous and smeary feet. Disconcertingly close to the drink...

Sit start with arete and low flake on the right face. Up to dunk the slopey lip. Balancy and rad.

https://youtu.be/odNp6mmIgkk?t=38s

Sit start as for 'Quote Unquote' - but instead of topping out straight up, continue into the bulge with tricky moves and top out to the left. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-YaY6lgo6Q

Sit start on flat edge, trend left and head up the bulge. Powerful.

Located on the waterside boulder and best tried on low tide/swell. Sit start in cave on obvious rail, traverse right into a pumpy layback sequence that leads to jugs. Rad!

Sit start with good flake. Avoid dabbing the disconnected rocks underneath the boulder. Up to horizontal break and then up with tricky moves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3Ip6H0Rrro

Stand start with the obvious bomber jug. Straight up into a heady top out with crystals. Radical.

Make sure to topout directly and left-ish with crystals and flat dish and avoid escaping left or right traversing the foot rail

Sit start with left hand crimp and right hand sidepull undercling. Slap up to glory. Classic. Stand FA by Jim N.

Sit start with left hand undercling and right hand in good vertical slot. Powerful slaps to top out in the middle of the heart. https://youtu.be/JSo3rLyi-t0?t=132

Sit start. Up the slopey bulge with burly compression moves on friction slopers. All time. https://youtu.be/JSo3rLyi-t0?t=307

Sit start with the cracks. Up the middle of the steep face. Radness.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMLqaynYIBA

Up the middle of the slab from the start of ;Just Jazzin'and finishing as for 'Born again Crustacean'. Bolt plates are required, as is a small purple cam or TCU for the top pitch.

P1: 45m, 16 From the DBB at the start of teh diagonal crack ('Just Jazzin') climb slightly right and up to belay on horizontal ledge (again DBB) - 8 BR's

P2: 45m, 13 Meandering pitch to belay on the right of the big overlap (DBB; there is a DBB also half way) - 7 BR's

P3: 25m, 11 Up past 2 Br's to flake (cam). Another BR 3m above the flake blow last steep step (DBB) - 3 BR's

Sit start if you want. Up with jugs. All time highball!

Stand start on underclings. Gets scary up high!

Sit start compressing the boulder. Climb a ~V8/9 compression sequence into the V11 stand start. Awesome, sustained climbing.

Adds a move into the 'crouch' starting with the right hand dish and slightly higher left hand originally opened by legendary Andy Lampard. https://vimeo.com/264036730

The stand start. Left hand on sloper and right down low on a positive dimple. Chuck a left heel hook and squeeze your way up with powerful moves. Hard V11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YXrt1WlZKA

Stand start. Up the obvious prow. Crux is up high. https://vimeo.com/264169521

Sit start low under the first roof in the obvious chossy break then up the double roof feature trending left to the top. Looks meh, climbs sick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKNnNzY3WJA

Sit start. Bouldered by Ron Master. Tall proud crack line.

Sit start on low crimps then into the shouldery crimps to finish as 'Ken Lee'. https://youtu.be/qpcUVFjOGdc?t=3m43s

Sit start and up. https://youtu.be/qpcUVFjOGdc?t=2m52s

Sit start on blocky rectangular feature on the right. Dyno out left to the jugs. Top out around the corner or straight up for a bit of extra scare factor. https://youtu.be/KwLzohGPYeQ?t=2m7s

Stand start using left hand sloper and right hand crimp. Up through the feature and throw to the jug. Easy top out to left.

Fantastic easier classic. Sit start low in scoops under the roof and move straight out of the steep with underclings and flowy sequences. Top out up the slab.

Great value.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNw-xEvGhSQ

Sit start under the obvious bulge and slap up to a tricky top. https://youtu.be/C9Rro0lZ8j4?si=ESwOiiBrYibT1Nuu

Sit start as 'Old Meets New' but traverse right to finish as for 'Steep Edges'.

https://youtu.be/2YA5F81qSDs

Stand start matched on the jug undercling as for 'Steep Edges', but instead of going to the flake out right head out left to the arete with a tricky sequence to join the slab of 'Old Gods'.

Sit start on the undercling edge and edge around the right then up and left. Powerful first move to the undercling jug into a heartbreaking finish crux.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7umCYRlQWs

Went down after 100+ sessions of epic then quickly got a 2nd and 3rd ascent, downgrading to ~V8.

The left starting foothold broke off in November 2022 and new beta for the start had to be unlocked. The line was re-opened 20/11/22 - A. Lampard

Sit start as 'Stone Unturned', instead of going to the flake out right head out left with a tricky sequence to finish as 'Old Gods'. Sustained and tricky. https://youtu.be/JUvPAtxpaS4

The left starting foothold broke off in early November 2022 and new beta for the start had to be unlocked. The line was re-opened 20/11/22 - M. Taran

Sit start as for 'Stone Unturned'. From the jugs go left to the arete then straight up to the obvious orange bloc above the jug flake. Avoiding going right to the flake (Steep Edges) or going left to join the slab of ‘Old Gods’ (Knowing Is Half The Battle).

Stand start from jug undercling FA 24/4/22 V9/10? Michael T

https://youtu.be/HeYJEmcRJo4

Sit start on crimps, then traverse right on underclings into the jugs on the right arete to top out as 'Fun'

Sit start. https://youtu.be/KwLzohGPYeQ

Low start with obvious low flakes (low left hand sidepull and right hand under the roof) and left toe. Hard starting move up to the diagonal flake and then up to jug rail to topout on the slab. The pedestal supporting the rock is out. Estimated 13/14? Has been done from one move in (starting with right hand gaston on the flake) clocks in at ~V10/11 Has also been done in two overlapping halves from the start (T Farrell 2023)

Sit start.

Obvious finger crack

Sit Start. Wide crack. Fist Jam or Gaston Both are great.

Sit start on good holds, shoulder up to flake then long move out right to escape up the right arete.

Sit start low on the lower break. Up the left corner with slopers and the flake.

Sit start on the lower break. Head straight up with a long move to the lip to finish.

Sit start with the lower break, stay between the two vertical crack.

Sit Start with right hand on low jug and left hand around the arete. Hard and bunchy start sequence into a great compression finish. don’t stack/fold pads to start https://vimeo.com/326212278 @3:30

Rap to large belay edge. Start on left side of ledge (very strenuous) Climb left facing flakes.

Same start as 'One Step Beyond' but at half way mark continue straight using a series of flakes on left side of arete.

Build belay on right side of boulder, facing east, about 3m from arête, and rap down to sea-level ledge. It is advisable to build an anchor. Climb crack 3m right of arête.

A powerful line capturing the full atmosphere of the Gap. Start on same wave-washed ledge as for Welsh corner or two meters up on hanging belay. Climb the right trending lay-back flake which turns into a corner crack that in turn leads over a 1.5m roof(crux). The elephant tusk 4m above the roof offers a good no-hand rest necessary to tackle the spicy finish - a 7m off-width body crack.

Sit start on small edge and good foot rail. Left hand up to side pull and big move up to right gaston. Cruisy to the top. https://vimeo.com/326212278 @00:18

Stand start on good jug in the middle of the wall. Straight up the middle of this wall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OINNrSayEQ

Climb as for "Just an Aluetian" but at 3/4 height go right up splitter crack ( crux) then right another move or two and the straight up.

Beautiful line up the undercling with good foot work until the HB. Irresistible maximum stretch chimney move to get to the top. Unforgettable.

Sit start, up the right arete. Powerful and technical to the lip then trend left to topout. Direct topout has also been done and is slightly harder. https://vimeo.com/326212278 @4:19

The direct finish - avoiding going to the jug on the left. Instead do a tricky mantle onto the bulge. May add a grade - hard to tell.

Sit start at the base of the obvious prow. Slap up to gain the obvious flat jug. Ballsy topout.

Sit start on flat rail (doesn't make much of a difference, but the original start is from the lowest of the two horizontal rails with a long-ish move up the the higher rail). Up through the roof with the flake system. Finish matched on the underclings (boulder problem is a drop off).

Can be linked into the the trad route 'Crosswords' - making 'Local Anaesthetic'

Julz

Sit start with high left hand on the arete and right hand pinch then slap your way up. Classic! https://youtu.be/z6O06yvfO5Y?t=11

Sit start in the middle of the face. Trust your feet on the way up.

Sit start, squeeze your way up the arete and left face avoiding the boulder behind you. Tricky up top.

Stand start with right hand undercling and left hand sloper at the bottom of the huge roof to the right of 'Mini-adventure'. Flowing movement on jugs into the guts of the roof and a radical high tension crux. Avoid the dab and top out. A classic!

Needs low swell, low tide and a good going easterly to dry off. Sketchy landing.

https://youtu.be/G-sbC4BD0pI

Sit start deep in the roof on the obvious flat jug on the left. Move right into hard moves to join the stand - 'Absolution'.

https://youtu.be/dt2dJuzYuf0

Sit start. Up the layback jugs. Big move to finish, with various options for beta. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiFT3DUkX-o

Sit start deep under the roof, traverse right to the roof corner then turn the corner and follow right on good edges. Avoid the boulder underneath. An instant classic! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNZda2-GaD0

Stand start. Squeeze your way up! Andy has probably already done it. Seems hard! Possibly done already by Andy

Ask Andy Sit start at the base of the arete. Up the imposing feature. Landing is...death. Andy has might have done it...?

Sit start with obvious jug flake and follow the layback up the middle of the face to committing moves up high. An instant classic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBkcifiE22w

The sweeping left arete. Sit start on the diamond wing at the base of the arete and traverse the arete to topout at the peak of the boulder. Early exits are possible, and earn you a downgrade. https://vimeo.com/264541174

Stand start on the obvious flat rail in the middle of the overhung face. Shoulder up to the obvious juggy feature from a tiny crimp and reel yourself up for the massive finishing dyno. Hard and classic. "this isn't flying it's falling with style"

https://vimeo.com/264040170

Sit start on the far right arete as for 'Mrs Potato Head'. Traverse left with long move to undercling flake to gain the stand start for 'To Infinity and Beyond'. Epic!

https://vimeo.com/268975880

Sit start with juggy left hand and right hand on arete. Slap your way up the arete to glory.

Bouldery moves to start, preplacing the first bit of gear or a bouldering mat would be a good idea then climb the crack with some face holds thrown in at all the right places. Apparently led by a visiting Spanish climber? hence the name I've given it

Stand start with left hand flake, right and crimp and smeary feet. Up the flake into a heady top. Classic.

Sit start and up the twin cracks. Awesome.

Sit start with slopey right hand dish on the arete and left hand high undercling thing. Up to good holds. Fun.

Sit start with left hand undercling and good low right hand on the arete.

Start at 5m high split block for two pitch adventure. Bolts require hangers Pitch 1 50m: up split and follow quartz vein past two bolts to left trending groove. Follow groove to a small hole followed by easier climbing to double bolt belay. Pitch 2: Scramble to top.

A bold climb with long runouts and big reaches. Goes up middle of west face. Bolts require hangers.

Pitch 1 (22) 23m: Climb obvious left trending crack, climbing past small cave to large bulge. Clip bolt and follow flakes to next bolt and crux to belay ledge (needs nuts and cams).

Pitch 2 (19) 20m: 10 m runout from belay to 'dinnerplate flake'. Pull up to bolt to double bolt belay (needs hangers).

Pitch 3 (7) 27m: Scramble to summit

From the top of the first pitch of Baylac Direct continue left up the line of bolts rather than up the right trending crack.

Regarded as one of the best crack pitches in WA, good value at the grade.

Pitch 1 (18) 33m: Up short crack to horizontal break. Enter finger crack and enjoy the climb to the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (16) 23m: Up short corner to easy ramp to block and belay on right below the summit dome.

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Committing slab climbing protected by small wires up to summit