The Alley Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Brandon Raymond Kam Rob Tapp Gord Cheddar Derek Smalls Renee Rogge Leopoldo Polo Ivo ziedins Jan Gosmann

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. The Alley 18 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. The Alley 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.385319, -80.523569

description

The best concentration of easier sport routes at the crag, this area is also shaded basically all day, making it very comfortable during the summer and colder in other seasons.

access issues

A permit is no longer required to climb at Old Baldy. Parking cost is $10/day for all users through the MacKay Pay phone app, or a yearly pass can be purchased on the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority website for $40 for residents or $75 for non-residents. Up to date access information for Ontario climbing can be found here: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/ -updated October 12, 2021

inherited from Old Baldy

approach

From 'Fallout Wall', continue north until you pass the broken bench. Head up to the cliff and scramble up (class 4) into the crevas. For an easier approach, continue hiking around the west side of the central pinnacle and turn back to climb into the crevas from the north.

ethic

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

inherited from Beaver Valley

history

Some of the routes listed as sport were trad routes, but were retro-bolted with the permission of the First Accensionists.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Main Wall Routes These routes are located on the main wall of the cliff. Routes are listed from south to north.
2	★★ Look Moe, a poifect coicle Starts outside the south end of the alleyway, on the mainwall under some overhanging rock. Crux is on the bottom, stick clip the first bolt, and be ready to swing if you fall.	5.10d	Sport 15m, 5
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
3	★ Who's That Change Guy Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley". Starts on the 2m "step". Follow the right set of bolts. FFA: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013 Set: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013	5.7	Sport 15m, 10
4	★ Sneakers and Roids Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley" Starts on the 2m "step" (stack of boulders). This route takes the left line of bolts.	5.6	Sport 15m, 10
5	★ Gridlock Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley". Start 2m left of Sneakers and Roids. Stay to the right at the top to gain the anchor jugs, harder to climb the face.	5.9	Sport 15m, 7
6	Indigo Girl	5.10c	Sport 14m
7	★ Optical Delusion	5.10b	Sport 14m
8	★★ Neo Nautilus	5.10d	Sport 14m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
9	Undomesticated	5.11b	Sport
10	★★ Split Leggings	5.10c	Sport 14m
11	Troglodyte’s Delight	5.8	Trad 18m
12	★★ Labour Pains	5.12b	Sport
Pinnacle Routes The following routes are located on the pinnacle, opposite the main cliff wall. Routes are listed from south to north.
14	★ Amadeus Rocks FA: Martin Seidenschmid	5.11c	Sport
15	★★ Salieri's Revenge	5.11a	Sport
16	Jagged Edge	5.10c	Sport
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
17	★ Pins and Needles Acurately named route due to the sharp pockets on the route. Located directly opposite of 'Gridlock'. Beware of a potential ground fall potential before clipping the second bolt.	5.10a	Sport 15m, 5
18	★ Why does Sara's butt hurt? Located to the right of 'Pins and Needles', start by the large rock near the north end of the alley. Some big moves for a 5.6, but easy climbing. Set: Wade Meade, 2013 FA: Wade Meade, 2013	5.6	Sport 14m, 4
19	★ Return of the Jingoid A retro-bolted trad line (originally a 5.6), this is the last bolted line to the north on the inside of the pinnacle.	5.6	Sport 14m, 6
20	★★ A Shot Across the Bow	5.11d	Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
5.6	★	Return of the Jingoid	Sport 14m, 6
	★	Sneakers and Roids	Sport 15m, 10
	★	Why does Sara's butt hurt?	Sport 14m, 4
5.7	★	Who's That Change Guy	Sport 15m, 10
5.8		Troglodyte’s Delight	Trad 18m
5.9	★	Gridlock	Sport 15m, 7
5.10a	★	Pins and Needles	Sport 15m, 5
5.10b	★	Optical Delusion	Sport 14m
5.10c		Indigo Girl	Sport 14m
		Jagged Edge	Sport
	★★	Split Leggings	Sport 14m
5.10d	★★	Look Moe, a poifect coicle	Sport 15m, 5
	★★	Neo Nautilus	Sport 14m
5.11a	★★	Salieri's Revenge	Sport
5.11b		Undomesticated	Sport
5.11c	★	Amadeus Rocks	Sport
5.11d	★★	A Shot Across the Bow	Sport
5.12b	★★	Labour Pains	Sport