Ascents in Holzgauer Wand having Beta

Was ne geile route

The desperately needed #warmup (it had around -5 degrees). Luckily the hands aren't needed much for the top section. :-D

A good line, but unfortunately retrobolted and straightened into "Angst im Gnack", which makes it harder.

Beautiful line. Really hard to tell which variant I like better, but since this is the original, it deserves some love. After the brittle beginning, it's solid rock from the first bolt to the top. Up left over two bigger holes to the obvious horizontal break, traverse to the left, up over the overhang and through the fantastic, technical dihedral to the anchor. The top section felt much easier than I remember, despite the freezing temperatures.

Komische Linienführung aber gute Kletterrei.

Immer wieder gut.

Umlenker schlecht.

Short but awesome quality. A hard, powerful crux at the grade.

Great line, good rock, solid #warmup. Not too easy to the first bolt, and quite airy to the top (you can thread a small nut through a key-hole pocket above the last bolt if you're feeling insecure).

Nice, straightforward dihedral, the hardest part is the overlap in the beginning. Good rock. A little shorter than the other routes here.

The first line here. Might look a little contrived from today's perspective, with the traverse and all, but it's probably really the easiest way up. Back in the day, it was also probably completely solid. Nowadays, the big flake in the traverse is vibrating quite heavily (this also applies to "Angst im Nacken", maybe this is where the name comes from?) and you shouldn't put too much load onto it, even though it's wedged in from the top. Otherwise great, easy climbing.

Quite a hard boulder up to the second bolt (used to be easier, a hold supposedly broke). You can probably clip the first one, but falling into it would be a bit nasty, so it's best to pre-clip the second. Beautiful wall climbing on small pockets from the second bolt up to the overhang, then it suddenly gets really strenuous again. Quite a few tricky moves in the end, I was lucky that my final crossover move ended up in a monstrous jug, otherwise I would have dropped off just below the anchor. (Flashed the upper part, had to do the boulder at the bottom two or three times.)

1/3 polierte Crux mit schlechten Clips und seifigen Tritten, 2/3 gute pumpige Lochkletterei.

Attempt

2nd go

#1stGo schwerer Einstiegsboulder

#1stGo

Hängen zum Aufwärmen.

Nochmal Hängen zum Aufwärmen.

Sehr coole Route mit Boulder-Start und knee-bars. Oben nochmal pumpig

Henkelpartie, die etwas kurz ist.

Größer Spaß an Kellen.

Den Umlenker klippen ist fast am schwersten.

This one has grown a new bolt after the boulder start. The hardest part is still before the first bolt, the way to the (now) second bolt is relatively easy but not trivial. Powerful moves through the overhang on good holds from there.

Interesting dihedral section on smallish pockets to the third bolt. Hip mobility is advantageous.

Bissl ballern über den Wulst.

Felt like doing a new speed record in this climb 'cause all the skin and feet were hurting so bad;)

Super hard start where I almost fell off! Volume onsight day as it was too hot for trying hard;)

9+/10-

Took me about 5 tries to do the far move from the soaked undercling with totally wet footholds... amazingly good moves through this little roof afterwards with a perfect heel hook above the head at the edge and to really trust this one was the key:)

#2go One hard move into this slopy undercling in the middle of the roof and the rest is more about finding the right footholds;) better than it looks! Felt surprisingly fresh in steep terrain even if it's already the 4th day in a row:)

#2go 1st go, only the traverse to the right was new; nice endurance linkup:) jummy

Never expected that because I was locking at the holds and simply couldn't even imagine how I'll get off the ground... did it with the mono and almost fell afterwards! Nice bouldery line:)

For sure, the best and hardest of its grade in the whole Frankenjura! So much resistance needed finishing with a far commiting move to the top:) would deserve more than 5 stars!

Yess did the hardest route at this wall! Or was it the easiest... thx Kevin for the perfect suitable beta to get these monos right:)

Most do here! Great endurance line with a bouldery start:) without any warmup

Endlich mol ned den onsight versemmelt;) geile abwechslungsreiche querung bei ders heißt dran bleibn bis zum schluss!

Crimpy painful boulder in the beginning with a nice dropknee but the real crux is definitely the endurance part afterwards where i luckily didn't fell once:) one of the best 8b's in Franken!

Had a hard time putting up the draws. The clips are much easier with draws already in place.

Went reasonably well with a few rests. Lots of very good, but difficult moves in steep terrain. Not many good rests, which makes it not really my style, but I'd love to come back and redpoint it.

The guidebooks differ quite a bit where this route is concerned … the best line is probably as it's described here. Nice climbing along the massive flake. Quite sustained in the end.