Routes in Italy

"Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion." Nalle Hukkataival.

Semi traverse, 16 moves, a foothold broke at the beginning of March 2015 but got glued back right after

Progetto

A short, steep, and powerful route.

Between "Solimano" and "Marco Gelato".

A perfectly horizontal roof.

A variant of "Nem".

Extension of 'Lux est Lux'. Goes straight through the center of the cave crossing a 20m horizontal roof. The line is split into two distinct sections, the first up to a rest is about 8b+ from where the hard part of the route begins.

A start variant of 'One Punch'.

Initially graded 9b/9b+, downgrade proposed by Adam Ondra to 9b in Nov-2021.

One of the hardest slabs in the world, show here

The route follows an independent line of holds between Pappagorgia and In Bilico.

As Zeni describes it: "it starts with a dyno followed by a not all too difficult boulder problem that leads past the small roof at the base of Bilico. The slab is relatively easy but the crimps are never really good enough to rest properly. The crux is located in the middle, 4 really small crimps which require perfect footwork. The route doesn’t let up and at 3/4 height there’s another finger crux. Despite being short, there are nevertheless 52 moves. The bolting respects the other climbs at the crag, so it’s fairly runout and although it’s never dangerous, it’s not possible to aid AO your way up. The route is interesting also because, unlike the other climbs, when I bolted it I decided not to place an abseil chain at the top. Instead, you have to mantle over the lip, untie and walk easily back down to the base of the crag."

Underground combined with Thunder Ribes

Pure Dreaming with start on Underground.

Shares the opening section with Bomba. Initially graded 9a+/9b but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi to 9a+.

Connection between 'L’arciere' (8c) and 'Goosfraba' (8c+).

Extension of Omen Nomen.

Starts with Noia and finishes some 70 moves later on Anaconda. Initially graded 9b but downgraded by Sébastien Bouin in 2023.

hard 9a/+ means Elias Iagnemma

Connection between 'St. Anger' and Zauberfee.

Climbs Kalmia to the roof then blasts L to finish on Space Shuttle.

Sit start

Sit start

#sitstart

compressioni dure, sit

parte come F e termina su H, #sit

traverso a sinistra poi uguale a B.

come C ma #sit ed a sinistra di un'eliminante

Starts on "Aji Musa" and climbs into "Unchio R2"

Starts on Callagan and then traverses for about 10 meters into Sitting Bull.

Just left of "Ladro di sogni".

Connexion between Nagay and Tentacoli.

Untere Verlängerung von Waldhexe.

Underground combined with Reini's Vibes.

Variant of "Reini's Vibos".

Without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it).