Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Tukino | ||||||
Tascmaster Wall | ||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Flight of the Condors — 3 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very crimpy, wanders around the wall which is weird as it doesn't need to. Last clip is best to extend a little to make clipping easier. A good outing and again boils down to 2 x V3 boulder problems with a jug rest in the middle.
|
||||||
19 Hard | ★★ TASCbar | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing and a great warm up for the crimpy routes as you will need to use a few small holds.
|
||||||
23 Hard | ★★★ Stinging Riccardo — 2 attempts | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing, took a decent amount of cleaning but now it's primed for summer!!! What a great line, overhanging crimp boulder leads to a no hands rest than technical face climbing on small crimps leads to a fun finish. If you are staying at Tukino nip over, it's only a 10 min walk. Probably on the hard side for 23 but maybe just sneaks under the radar. once you know the sequences its maybe 2 x V3 boulders with a rest in the middle 🤔
|
||||||
Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Tukino | ||||||
Wall of Sound | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★★ Ritual De La Habitual — 2 attempts | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant route but right from the start move this wasn't a 23 for me 😂 maybe I didn't read it very well 🤔 Extend the 6th and 7th or risk the ride of your life. Hard, Wild, Spicy and Brilliant, looking forward to coming back for the other 2 lines that start at the same spot.
|
||||||
22 Hard | ★★ Harakiri — 2 attempts | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing, harder than most 22s but this is not a soft crag 😂
|
||||||
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Brave Stranger - with Raenee Wilson | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This ones a good outing if you like techy problems. Mostly easy until the bulge at the top where the holds run out, mostly cleaned though didnt put too much effort in to cleaning so could do with a bit more. a mix of boulder problems and no hands rests... I think 25 is a good estimation of difficulty though I'm sure you could justify it down to 24 when you know the moves 😂 One thing I will say is.... Bring your head game, I clipped the 4th bolt down by my ankle, took the crux fall and its not too bad if you have a soft belayer 😂 Spicy fun 🌶️
|
||||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ INOTIO | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
another lap... this time went direct through the hedge hog
|
||||||
23 | ★★ INOTIO | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
great line... still
|
||||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Gum's Gully | ||||||
25 | ★★ Pupation — 5 attempts | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I will never forget the time I got pupated
|
||||||
Mon 6th Nov 2023 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
28 | ★ Head Shot — 2 attempts | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
made some progress on attempt one, can hold positions I couldn't last time but attempt 2 was cooked by the sun... I should have known better than to try this on an afternoon with no skin 🤦♂️
|
||||||
23 Easy | ★ Tricks of the Dad — 2 attempts | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
bouldery, good sequence... could do with being longer 😂
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Gum's Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Journeyman | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaned of cobwebs using my hair, face and fingers... Spiders are now living in my pants but the route is clean.
|
||||||
25 | ★★ Pupation | 12m, 4 | ||||
What the heck is this thing!!! Off to file a hurt feelings report as I couldn't make the crux foot bump 😂
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Frighteners Rock | ||||||
22 | ★★ Fashion Pumps | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Possibly the greatest 18 in the North Island!!!!
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Morrisey's Fringe | 8m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
After much deliberation with Alex and the leg man I have decided to take the onsight of this stunning line. I will now regale you with the style and way I climbed it then upload a video for you all to see. I brushed all the cobwebs off the holds that I could reach (90% of the holds on this climb) and then started from as low down (kind of a sit start boulder) as I could. I am taking the full 25 points just because I can... It may be easy for a 25 but I feel like I don't have enough experience climbing at this level to argue with a grade on such a classic boulder... Also, I pre clipped the first incase in the 4 moves that the climb does have I didn't deck it into the rocks
|
||||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
24 Hard | ★★ McFat Burnt Christmas — 3 attempts | 20m, 8 | ||||
what the heck is this thing 😂 Seemed hard but I started the day in bad shape so.... Probably on point. overhanging pocket pulling was actually fun if you are sadistic and enjoy sharp, minging pockets 🤷♂️
|
||||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Hardon | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
extra lap for fun... still hard for 23 😂
|
||||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Upside Down | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
extra lap for fun
|
||||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | ||||||
22 | ★ In the Club | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun "retro-flash" of this one to see if I could still remember the beta, still a nice climb even if the bolts are weird af 😂
|
||||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Hardon | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably a little hard for 23 😂 ... At least now its fully clean, so get in while its still lichen free as its a pretty cool boulder problem 🤙
|
||||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Upside Down | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did a couple of laps, really great addition to the crag. Nice work Dan
|
||||||
23 | ★★ The Wrath of God | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An interesting "retro flash", felt good... still a really nice line
|
||||||
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Mangorewa | ||||||
Sector Sang | ||||||
19 ~16 | ★ Rained Off - with Raenee Wilson | 13m, 5 | Average | |||
Not only soft for the grade.... beware of the feet, They will chicken out when you need them the most 😂
|
||||||
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Mangorewa | ||||||
The Wall of Cheese | ||||||
19 ~16 | ★★ Gene Therapy - with Raenee Wilson | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climbing but way off on the grade
|
||||||
17 ~15 | ★★ Bavarian Blue - with Raenee Wilson | 12m, 7 | ||||
Really nice climbing but a bit off on the grade.
|
||||||
24 ~25 | ★★ Sticky Fingers - with Raenee Wilson | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
🤔 This one seems to have missing holds, or maybe someone just spilt the glue 😂 not outrageously hard as some of the comments here suggest just a bit hard for 24. Should have onsighted as there is nothing cryptic about this one, just pull on sharp crimps to the top. PM me for excuses on why I didn't 😂 2nd Go
|
||||||
24 Easy | ★★★ Chez Royale - with Raenee Wilson | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt like a lot of effort on the onsight, 2nd go a lot easier knowing where the holds were, soft for the grade but an Awesome line, would recommend 🤙
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Burnt Chops - with Raenee Wilson | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Tahi - with Raenee Wilson | 14m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Don't trust the chicken heads at the bottom, rest was great rock. fun climb
|
||||||
Sun 28th May 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Double Leaning Jowler — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seems like a great line with unique movement, sharp holds getting off the ledge. I wish my fingers fitted better in the top holds 😂
|
||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ Lanky | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Can rest on almost every hold until the final 4-5 moves, conditions today better than yesterday ended up going down on the warm up with some nice friction. Not sure why this dent see more traffic, might be the ironic name 🤔
|
||||||
Thu 27th Apr 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 Hard | ★★ Vulture culture — 2 attempts | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good climb... I even started to enjoy the bottom crux. The top just keeps giving it to you with no rest 😂 Great power endurance line found this one harder than Coma tbh
|
||||||
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 Hard | ★★ Vulture culture | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Overall about the same as crooked imo... thought reversing the coma crux was going to be far harder than it actually is. should go with some connies next session 🤙
|
||||||
29 ~29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures — 2 attempts | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard boulder followed by an epic thug fest to the end, I found the bottom boulder to be pretty intense, similar difficulty to coma imo, 2 more line from this start before I get to move on 😂
|
||||||
Sun 19th Mar 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 ~29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures — 3 attempts | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
confident this would have gone today if the holds were dry... wet feet and hands at the crux... still did it with a 1 hang... next session I will bring a leaf blower 😂
|
||||||
Sat 11th Mar 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Snake Oil — 2 attempts | 14m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Started this battle long ago... Didnt give it much thought this year until last weekend when I hopped back on and realised it was ready to go... first go today froze... second go ✅ Im not quite sure how the crux stuck as I improvised new beta 😂 the rest was the battle I deserved and I finally got my draws back... Thanks for reading... the video will be up some day soon... The End.
|
||||||
Mon 6th Mar 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Snake Oil — 2 attempts | 14m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First proper days back on this line this season and all the moves felt way better than last year. Only fired off one proper attempt at it on Sunday but the knee bar was wet and slipped out, dried off and went to the top... Feels close but you never know 😂
|
||||||
Sat 4th Mar 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
27 | ★ Infinite Monkey Theorem — 4 attempts | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyed this line more than the spider and more than I thought I would. a great no hands knee bar in the middle then powerful climbing with a cool finish. overall I thin it took 4 go's over 2 days... Would have been second go if I could learn how to put knee pads on properly 😂
|
||||||
Mon 13th Feb 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 ~29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures - with Justin Wimmer | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent moves after the start 😂 same top as coma, felt same difficulty as coma maybe slightly easier 🤔
|
||||||
29 Hard | ★★ Vulture culture - with Justin Wimmer | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wet rock but great to jump on and figure out the moves, just need some better beta for reversing the coma crux.
|
||||||
Sat 11th Feb 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 ~29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect — 2 attempts | 10m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
On a wet hung over day I decided to do the real version with the coma crux... Far better than the weak sauce knee bars, I feel like a real boy now 😂
|
||||||
Sun 15th Jan 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
30 ~30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An awesome line!!! Harder than coma with the start adding to the power endurance... I got both pumped and powered out and nearly dropped it a few times
|
||||||
Sat 14th Jan 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
30 ~30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest — 3 attempts | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
ooosh... another punt off the top of a route 😂
|
||||||
Mon 9th Jan 2023 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
22 | ★ Taste The Rainbow - with Dan Head | 20m, 7 | ||||
Great climbing for the grade, lots of mantels and technical climbing with the hardest move being just before the anchors... Might feel slightly run out but the holds are all good for clipping
|
||||||
26/27 | ★★ The Great Skittles Tragedy of 2023 — 2 attempts - with Dan Head | 38m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
couldn't decide on a difficulty so 26 will do till it gets a 2nd ascent (just like the rest 😂) first half is great climbing with plenty of rest, get ready for a crux through the steep part on tiny crimps and a dead point or lock off to the big jug, the rest is pretty cruisey with a little technical stuff but nothing harder than 23/24ish... overall a great and looooooong line!!! 🤙
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 Hard | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
great line except that first hold 😂
|
||||||
Sun 1st Jan 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 Hard | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma — 3 attempts | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Blew the top section... should be happy with the high point but it was so close!!! 😂 next go?
|
||||||
30 ~30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
started dialling the bottom section back in, top the same as coma so will go as soon as I get the flow on the bottom.
|
||||||
Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
20/21 | ★★ Dilios | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another great line, some long moves on good crimps and even some jugs in there... dont drop the jugs at the top or you'll be getting some air time 😂
|
||||||
22/23 ~23 | ★★ Edging | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not sure what grade to give this one, a great face climb in an even better position!!! Crimpy with some cool moves
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Kaizo Korner | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Shame it doesn't have its own start but the corner was too good to pass up on, the difficult moves are at the bottom prob around 21ish then the corner is easier climbing at around 18/19ish but an awesome line!!!
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Atreyu | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
The Twister Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Behind Blue Lines - with Marnus, Ryan Yang | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Better than expected. bouldery start leads to easier climbing
|
||||||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
23 | ★★ Another One Rides The Bus - with Ryan Yang, Marnus | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
snagged an FA before the weather came in and stranded Ryan on the route 😂 Great climbing, technical start leads to consistent crimping through the overhanging face.
|
||||||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
The Lost Sector | ||||||
20 19 - 21 | ★ Axis | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Some good rock quality some not so good, mostly this is just access to the other lines.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Old School Epics | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An awesome outing, great views and great climbing
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ The Unknown | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Better quality rock than its right hand counterpart, great moves and great views
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Aliens Exist | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climbing, watch out for the calf pump and the harder movers heading over the top.
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Eat My Short | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Top rope hero for the win, great climbing, holes drilled and bolts coming soon 🤙
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Shin-Dig | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lord it!!! a tricky crux and some excellent climbing.
|
||||||
24 23/24 | ★★★ Big City Life | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Harder than shindig, 3 cruxes with the hardest being at the top through a blank face
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
26 | ★★ Climb This You Peach - with Raenee Wilson | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyed this more than the last few gos, lots of weird climbing and the top crux is awesome... bottom crux is a bit harder imo 🤔 not sure what the grade is, I really had to want this one today. needs a second ascent, some anchors and a quick scrub down after my scrub downs... possibly just traffic.
|
||||||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
25 26 | ★★ Climb This You Peach - with ChrisBlake | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Still needs some more cleaning, the higher you get the better the rock quality gets. funky climbing on the arete with good holds all the way to the rooflet, a flaring crack thing spat me off a few times before I worked out how to double Gaston 😂 once through the first crux you get a no hands rest before attacking the final over hanging arete on excellent holds, big moves and then a bit of compression. If the bottom rock quality was better it would get more stars but probably just one for now. Anchors will go in at the weekend as well as it getting a first ascent. Probably 25 maybe harder.
|
||||||
23 22 | ★★ Climb this you Bastard - with Ryan Yang | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This one prob needs an upgrade, I have seen a few people who can easily climb 22 spat off by it and having repeated it now a few years later its definitely up there... Or... I need new beta 😂 epic line once you are past the bottom weak rock. Take your head game!!!!
|
||||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
24 24/25 | ★★ The Odyssey | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still great climbing!!! laps for filming and fun
|
||||||
27 26/27 | ★★ Save The Human Babies | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I wanted this one to start differently but it didnt seem logical to bolt the boulder. up the ramp, grade 17 climbing to the roof... Boulder problem on a rope, big dynamic span for this move and nearly exploded my forearm pulling on a shallow pocket. some crimpy overhanging climbing then its over and another 17/18 to the anchors. Grade... don't ask me... felt like the hardest individual move of the climbs I have done in the bottom tier so far, but thats all it was really... followed by some cool crimpy moves.
|
||||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
The Twister Buttress | ||||||
16 | unknown | 25m, 9 | Crap | |||
Some of the worst rock quality you could imagine, Whom ever bolted these routes is a sadistic monster who probably wants to lure unsuspecting Gumbies to their death via choss. If you step on to this rock expect your feet to explode and to be pulling chunks off!!! Mega Classic if you enjoy sketch!!!!
|
||||||
18 | Unknown 2 | 25m, 9 | Crap | |||
Some of the worst rock quality you could imagine, Whom ever bolted these routes is a sadistic monster who probably wants to lure unsuspecting Gumbies to their death via choss. If you step on to this rock expect your feet to explode and to be pulling chunks off!!! Mega Classic if you enjoy sketch!!!!
|
||||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Crimps | 28m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I have no idea how to grade this line... crimps through the overhang range from 10-15mm and require some good footwork to be able to hold, as you get further through the crux the crimps get a bit more in-cut. After the crux its not over, you get decent holds through a couple of bolts and then a long lock off to another small hold then more jugs after that to the top. The route stays overhanging and I couldn't find a no hands rest till the end!!!! Great line if you like small crimps 😂
|
||||||
Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
26 | ★★ Pneumothorax | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a few gos to work out the crux and then a few more attempts to get it, should come out about 26 but could possibly be harder to easier 🤷♂️ holding the tension on small crimps through the bulge was hard but then its not over there. The top section is awesome on slopey holds and a final bulge is blind but the holds are good when you find them. Id give this one 1-2 stars and well worth doing.
|
||||||
24 24/25 | ★★ The Odyssey | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This line has everything you could hope for, excellent moves at the start laying back jugs (if the corner is wet just transfer onto the boulder) extend any draws that take the rope into the overhangs or unclip after the next draw is in and I found no rope drag, without extensions the rope drag is noticeable at the top. the roof is the crux with one huge move(jugs to jugs), hard to grade prob a grade 22 with hard crux. I'd give this one at least 2 stars!!!
|
||||||
Thu 8th Sep 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Falkor | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Best line at the crag so far!!! steep and thuggy!!!
|
||||||
23 22 | ★★ Atreyu | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A really fun line on really good rock, crux was the tricky slab and pulling the roof. Looking forward to hearing what people think of this one, quality and grade.
|
||||||
Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
19 | ★★ Face Down - with Marnus | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice face climbing for a short route
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Dealers Choice | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wish it was 20m longer... nice juggy overhanging climbing, probably a good warm up for some of the harder stuff
|
||||||
25 | ★★★ Mo’ Mojo - with Marnus | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
JP you have done it again!!! This line is so much more betterer than the other start, got some tricky moves in the bottom section too. Cleaned the route from top to bottom so anyone wanting to jump on you'll have a lichen free line for the next 2 weeks!!!
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Whanganui Bay | ||||||
The Plateau | ||||||
25 | ★★★ The Pumice Stone Kid - with Tom Baanders, Marnus | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great outing... Toms directions helped me flash this bad boy... pretty happy to get a classic 30m flash under my belt at the grade, got me pumped at the top!!!
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Shneiderburner - with Marnus | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Blew the onsight on the moss... should have taken marnus up on the cleaning he offered for the top 😂 cleaned top to bottom then sent next go, brilliant moves.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Bunny in Disguise - with Marnus | 10m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ A Change of Tune - with Marnus | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A really nice 18... good feet.
|
||||||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Whanganui Bay | ||||||
Whekenui | ||||||
23 | ★★★ On Patrol in the Ruins of Your Body | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Best 23 I have climbed in NZ to date... unbelievable!!! had to want that top out!!!!
|
||||||
22 | Dr Funkenclimb | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Great climbing until you mantle and realise there are no bolts over the lip, didnt read the guide and actually have to do a deathly traverse to either JTABG or Orm... originally I thought the 2 inch layer of moss had eaten the bolts and anchor but nope. Would be a great line if it had a single bolt over the lip and a direct anchor... makes no sense to me that it doesn't already have this but 🤷♂️
|
||||||
23 | ★★ Jim Takes a Booma Gutsa | 16m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A fantastic line!!! no specific crux for me on this just a consistent climb without resting 🤙
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Jim Takes A Tumble | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another banger... jumped on this thinking it was a 19... it soon became apparent it was a tad hard... 60 mins of cleaning the moss of later and this one turned out to be a techy master piece!!! #secondgo
|
||||||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Whanganui Bay | ||||||
Lobotomy Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Duudooduudoo (Doodedoodedoo) | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What an outing this was!!! end of the day and expecting your usual 21 jaunt... this was anything but... being the first to climb this one in 5 years before cleaning it was an absolute mission 😂 digging out pockets of moss and eating spider Webbs all the way this thing has some amazing moves and keeps going forever!!! would recommend!!!
|
||||||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Whanganui Bay | ||||||
The Plateau | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Childhood's End | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An incredible line and felt just as difficult as Kefunka. ... Either way its an incredible route with a funky top out, well bolted and actually has a decent anchor 😃 #secondgo
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Kafunkafunkafunkapteschew! | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An outrageously awesome line with an equally outrageous run out to the anchor 😂 #secondgo
|
||||||
Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
24 | ★ Rumble in the Jungle | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not a bad route, not a great one. weird bolt placements but some of the moves are cool.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent line
|
||||||
Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
24 | ★ The Big Bad Mouse | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thanks Dan for letting me jump on this one, one for people who like wedging themselves into things.
|
||||||
Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Jungle Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Jungle Fever | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent route with a great view at the top
|
||||||
22 23 | ★ Kaa's Kingdom | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
draws in, not sure it gets 23 for me but a great route non the less
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Bandar-log | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
an enjoyable outing
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ The Crow King | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First attempt got confused at the top and tried to go direct on blind holds 🤦♂️ second go much easier knowing where the good holds were. A great route with a bit of everything.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Baloo | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
flowy, enjoyable climbing
|
||||||
25 | ★★★ Bagheera | 7m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go, dropped the dyno with a solid hand on it 😂 the key to the jump is really to stick it with both hands... just leap!!!
|
||||||
19 21 | ★★ The Faraway Tree | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
a really nice climb, done after Alice then Dan did back to back first/second ascents. the first move may be height dependant 🤷♂️
|
||||||
Fri 1st Jul 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
27 | ★★ The Creature Within (The Creature Within (project)) - with Marco Lefebvre | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
actually an awesome techy little boulder on a rope, thanks for the catches today Marco 🤙
|
||||||
Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
26/27 | ★★ The Great Skittles Tragedy of 2023 (Closed Project 4) | 38m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This one is excellent all the way to the crux going over the bulge, some big move crimpy s**t going down. Im going to split the route into 2 routes as there is an obvious break between 23ish climbing and something much harder. The bottom deserves the traffic and the top will be for people who want some crimpy punishment!!!
|
||||||
27 | ★★ The Creature Within (The Creature Within (project)) | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This one just isn't laying down for me 😂 a couple of wet holds in the crux didnt help but I just cant get the body position solid enough to link the crux moves... next time though, looking forward to drier conditions and jumping on again. cool moves 🤙
|