Routes in Wharepapa South for selected grade

Great climb. Weave up face on thin holds, get over bulge and make way up vertical face to anchors.

2nd pitch of cocoa kids (16). Pumpy overhang to the top

Arete left of Still Crazy crack, to it's anchors. Mainly on the right, but on to left side around half height. 5 bolts, to chain anchors

Start right of arete, move over left and straight up on tiny holds the whole way.

Overhang start to short tricky face.

Slight overhang start on good holds to thin hard face climb.

Climb the arete, bulge, short face to finish on a big ledge.

Start right of 'Via Dolorosa' and trend right following diagonal holds. Sustained.

Steep runnel with overhang start on good holds to easy climbing on jugs.

Climb the wide groove with difficult moves at half height. Up the slab to finish.

Start as for Torquemada, onto the short face then finish up Rok It To The Moon.

Climb the slab to the short overhanging face. Balancy.

The left side of the Going Ape roof, via the bolts then run it out to the peg (is it still there?) on Krishna, then up and left to the Lentil Nightmare belay.

Crimps to start, up vertical wall, then onto slab.

First half of climb on trad (or abseil in to set top rope from first bolt about 10m up and lead the short headwall). Hard start to good crack, following this up into corner for awkward moves to reach first of 3 bolts on headwall.

Start up the arete to a good rest at half height. Either take some nuts to reduce the risk of ground-fall getting to the third bolt or just run it out. Same top as 'Jug Abuse'

Follow the obvious crack in the dihedral. The difficulty increases where the angle changes.

Fantastic arete climb. Three cruxes, one being the mantle onto huge ledge near the top.

Steep start to vertical face all on small sharp pockets.

Up into the scoop, tackle the overhanging bulge, continue up the blunt arete.

Up to the overhang left of the arete then tackle the bulge. Not 2 stars, but seems we can't change how it was entered.

Wander up from the toe of the buttress, trending left to a crux then around the corner, back right and up to the anchors. Lots of shiny expensive bolts.

Use the last bolt of 'Performance Anxiety'

Climb to finishing jug on arete.

Climb the delicate arête and groove then up through the overhang.

Climb to first bolt. On the eastern side of the gully.

Traverse from right to left.

Climb up the easy slab to ledge. ('Slab of Bolts/ Starting Small' route) But with no hands!

Start at far right move left and up, cross and up, right before moving down. Keep moving to left arete.

Climb to first bolt.

Climb the arete. Opposite 'Mister Daddy Long Legs'

Start further left than previous V4. Out to steep arete to good hold at top.

Climb inside cave over roof left to right.

Bouldery start through the scoop. Then easy climbing to the top.( I believe the original name was Lunar Leper, because when Wayne cleaned it bits kept falling off)

Climb up to the first bolt on Lunar Leopard.

Climb up the overhanging boulder problem to the slab before climbing through the small roof. Powerful pumpy climbing.

Crimps lower down on the slight overhang leads a mantle over the lip, with better holds the higher you go.

Climb to to the first bolt of Zoomers.

The second route on the right walking up Bulge Gully. Name and grade provisional until further information gathered. FA Unknown.

Sit start, climb up the middle right to the top.

Sit start, mantel over slug horn.

Traverse the slug boulder. Start left of '1. V2' and go all the way to '8. VE'

Big moves leads to a good hold to clip and rest from before the pumpy moves waiting for you on the face, followed by a mantle onto the lip.

Climb the overhanging face left of Appetite For Destruction route and finish on the ledge.

Climb through the bulge.

Layback off side pulls then pull to the top.

Climb the middle of the face and then mantel.

Climb up the middle of the face.

Traverse withut using the lip.

Climb up the centre of the face.

Work your way up the slab start to then test your confidence moving through the roof before a pumpy finish. A must do if you are visiting Waipari

Climb to first bolt.

Left line of bolts. Climb up on the crack and face. 20 is laughable if the crack is in but we'll let it go.

It starts just left of Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt. Climb the steep face on small pockets (the hard bit), moving left onto the arete after the 3rd bolt. The slab finish adds to the mix. Well placed bolts with nice moves. Shares the same anchor as Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt.

Great arete climb. Up thru crack to start, thru short groove on to face. Move left then back right onto the arete and power up to mantle for anchors.

Great climb. Climb up from right onto arete to get to big crack. Move left onto wall for mantle to small ledge. Up face on small holds to anchors.

Bridge your feet to get your hands onto the arete.

Climb up the ramp.