Ascents in Austvågøy

Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!

One to come back for

Was fun large fist/stack crack. Good for technique training. If was 5-10 m longer would be an absolute classic and probably 2 grades harder.

Was hard little crux and I wussed out and rested. Was nice to remind myself that climbing isnt always about getting the onsights, good to go out and chill a bit sometime.

Fun climbing, with some very thought provoking bolt spacing! Was climbed rather slowly. Longgg single pitch

Long, diagonal R) leaning crack system with diverse gear and movements. Crux was moving through laybacking offwidth dihedral crack thingy. Could knee bar often and was hella fun climbing.

Caitlin led first and 3rd and me second. Was quality. 2nd pitch was some brash jamming!

I led second picth, Cailtin the first and 3rd. Fun climb.

Tried in the rain, was desperate to climb. This is a friction, stem, layback corner. Had many regrets. Needed to bail and then set up top anchor to clean my gear. Still had fun

Crux was fun and committing. The rest of the climbing is dreamy. Best easier grade layback crack ive climbed.

Was a bit nervous, before committing to the crux so had a rest. Was actually non complicated and not very strenuous

Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3

Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.

Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them

A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb

First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day

Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.

Much easier when we got on the right route.

Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.

A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like

Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.

Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.

Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.

Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock

Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.

Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack

Good sequences following Dave

Amazing route!