Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Vestvågøy Eggum | ||||||
| 6c Hard |
★★ Ildvann
- with
Håkon
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Great warm up route.
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| 7b+ |
★★★ Commando
- with
Håkon, Yngve, Stian Bruvoll
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
|
3 sessions attempting to be a sport climber. No send
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| Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster | ||||||
| 7- A0 |
FA
★ Joika Raiders
- with
Christoffer Martinsen
| ★ Good | ||||
| Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | ||||||
| 8- |
★★★ Lofoten reality
- with
Pat
| 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
|
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| Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | ||||||
| 7- ~6- |
★★ The King Has Spoken
- with
Pat
| 600m | ★ Good | |||
|
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
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| Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Lyngvær | ||||||
| 7+/8- |
★★★ La Vida Joika
- with
Pat
| 100m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
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| Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten | ||||||
| 6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- with
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Korstoget into Vestpillaren
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| Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten | ||||||
| 6 |
★★★ Vestpillaren
- with
Innika
| 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management
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| Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | ||||||
| 6 |
★★★ Gamle rev
- with
Innika
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Tue 28th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Hjørnet | ||||||
| 7 |
★★★ Ninjarisset
- with
Sara S
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
| Thu 18th Nov 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Småbakkan Lower Terassen Flomsteinen | ||||||
| 6A |
★ Våte Drømmer
| |||||
| Thu 18th Nov 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Småbakkan Lower Terassen Grottesque | ||||||
| 6A |
★ Grottesque
| |||||
| Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Pianokrakken | ||||||
| 4+ |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
| 110m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | ||||||
| 5 |
★★★ Gandalf
| 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Gandalf into Gollum to avoid some slippy parts. Vises, Gandalf
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| Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | ||||||
| 6 ~6- |
★★★ Tromsø ekspressen
- with
Vegard With Stennes
| 95m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6 |
★★★ Gamle rev
- with
Vegard With Stennes
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården
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| Fri 29th Oct 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Ursvika | ||||||
| 6A |
Thor försökte
| |||||
| 6B |
★ Han är bara lat
| |||||
| 4 |
★ Ukjente hjørnet
| |||||
| Wed 27th Oct 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Vestvågøy Smorten Low | ||||||
| 7A |
★ Hurdalsrisset
| ★ Good | ||||
|
Fun but just one heavy move into the hand crack.
Easier than Flexmix if you know how to jam
|
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| Sat 23rd Oct 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Vestvågøy Smorten Low | ||||||
| 6C |
★★ Project Flexmix
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
| Fri 15th Oct 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder J | ||||||
| 7A+ |
★ Røde risset
| ★ Good | ||||
| Thu 14th Oct 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Pianokrakken | ||||||
| 8- |
★★★ Huggormen
- with
Sara M.
| 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!
|
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| Thu 7th Oct 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf boulders Boulder A | ||||||
| 4+ |
Nameless problem #13
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| 5 |
Riss
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| 5+ |
Nameless problem #8
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| 5+ |
Nameless problem #7
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| 5+ |
Left
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| 5+ |
Nameless problem #14
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| 4+ |
Nameless problem #12
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| 6A |
Nameless problem #3
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| 4+ |
Nameless problem #11
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| 5+ |
Nameless problem #15
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| 4+ |
Nameless problem #10
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| Sun 19th Sep 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøymyren | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Gimsøytraversen
| ★ Good | ||||
| Fri 17th Sep 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder K | ||||||
| 6C |
★ Giljotinen høyre
| ★ Good | ||||
| Fri 17th Sep 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder G | ||||||
| 6B |
Flakeggen
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| 4C |
Mikroveggen
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| 5+ |
★ Taktrening
| ★ Good | ||||
|
Went full Joika with this one. Took some time & cursing. Thankfully late September so there were no witnesses. Kafaaan!
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| 5+ |
Andre sva
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| 4+ |
Første sva
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| Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Svolvær- området The boulders Børvagen Gårdsplassen Boulder C | ||||||
| 6A |
★ Gårdsplasstraversen
| ★ Good | ||||
| Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset The boulders The Tao-Te Circuit | ||||||
| 6A |
★★★ Tao (Tao-Te)
- with
Kjetil
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
|
Fun afternoons scrambling (even if the quality drops off a bit in the second half)
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| Thu 19th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika Finnvika/Tjeldbergvika Boulders Tjeldbergvika East | ||||||
| 5 |
★ Venstresprekken
| ★ Good | ||||
| 6A+ |
★★ Epic Split
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
| 5 |
★ Vikveggen
| ★ Good | ||||
| 6C |
★★ Nameless roof
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
|
First 6c flash
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| Wed 18th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Cornflakesveggen | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★★ Ormen Lange
- with
Alexander
| 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Nice steep route. Pulled on gear through P2. First bolted anchor is junk but it´s easy to build a stance directly under the 7+ pitch. Rest of the anchors are in good condition (A 70m gets you to the ground from P2)
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| Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Vågakallen | ||||||
| 7 R - X |
★★★ Storpillaren
- with
Ada, Ingrid V
| 620m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.
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| Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Salten | ||||||
| Bodø Fugløya Skiftnesågfjellet | ||||||
| 7 |
★★★ Skyvandraren
- with
Fanny, Ada
| ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
| Fri 6th Aug 2021 - Salten | ||||||
| Bodø Fugløya Ramntind-området | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ 3-stjerners karbonpudding
- with
Fanny, Ada
| 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6+ |
★★ Syltetøying
- with
Fanny, Ada
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
| Thu 5th Aug 2021 - Salten | ||||||
| Bodø Fugløya Skiftnesågfjellet | ||||||
| 7- |
★★★ Jediriddarane kjem attende
- with
Fanny, Ada
| 290m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Baugen | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Silhuetten
- with
Fanny
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Finished up Silhuetten
|
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| 6+ |
★★★ Alexis
- with
Fanny
| 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Pleasantly epic. Took extra 0.4-#1, which was nice.
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| Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Masta | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Sørpilaren
- with
Fannny
| 250m | ★ Good | |||
|
Thought we´d signed up for a casual stroll. Wrong. Climbs very old school
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| Tue 27th Jul 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Zapffetoppen | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Vesterveg
- with
Fanny
| 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Straight Albatross
- with
Fanny, Kjetil
| 90m | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 12th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder K | ||||||
| 6A+ |
Runde Svaet
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| Mon 12th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder I | ||||||
| 6A+ |
Ny dihedral
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| 5+ |
★ Grårisset
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| Mon 12th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder J | ||||||
| 4+ |
Hjörnerisset
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| 4+ |
Kjerktrappen
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| Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Presten Stålormsrisset | ||||||
| 8 |
★★★ Stålormsrisset
- with
Karantene livet
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
|
Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).
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| Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Northeast | ||||||
| 2+ |
★ Lofoteggen
| ★ Good | ||||
| Wed 23rd Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy The Coast Jomfrupillaren | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★★ Den Siste Sommeren
- with
Alexander
| 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them.
Standard Lofoten rack works fine.
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| Fri 18th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Vestvågøy Smorten Low | ||||||
| 5+ |
Gubbstön
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| 4+ |
Fyrglo
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| 6A |
Silly Me
| |||||
| 5+ |
Silly Season
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| Fri 18th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Vestvågøy Smorten Morena | ||||||
| 5+ |
Pinchcliffe
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| 6A+ |
Cowboysträck
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| 4+ |
Pullover
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| 6A+ |
Nameless
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| Wed 9th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Pedersenryggen
- with
Vegard With Stennes
| ★ Good | ||||
|
Short rope practice / Vågarisset recovery session
|
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| Wed 9th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Pianokrakken Oceanside minnerisset Boulder A | ||||||
| 6A |
Homerun
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| Wed 9th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Vågarisset
- with
Alexander
| 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((
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| Tue 1st Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Breiflogtinden | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★★ One hundred years later
- with
Sofie
| 600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.
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| Wed 26th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
| 6- |
★★ Four pitch route
- with
Sofie
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
#4 for start of P4 nice
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| Tue 25th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Djupfjord Sjøsvaet | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Lay-bye Layback
- with
Sofie
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Climbs nicer than it looks.
|
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| Tue 25th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Englevinger
- with
Sofie
| 85m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
|
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| Sat 22nd May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders La Perla | ||||||
| 6A |
Triple Cracks
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| 6C+ |
Pearly Gates
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| Mon 17th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
| 7- ~6+ |
★★★ Fire forsøk
- with
Sofie
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!
|
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| Fri 26th Mar 2021 - Ofoten | ||||||
| Narvik Leirvik | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ BAS
- with
Sara/Anna
| |||||
| 5c |
★★ Fururuta
- with
Sara/Anna
| |||||
| 5c |
Areten
- with
Sara/Anna
| |||||
| 5a |
★ Vinduet
- with
Sara/Anna
| |||||
| Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy The Coast The boulders Geitvikneset Boulder D | ||||||
| 6B |
Friends på turné
| |||||
| Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy The Coast The boulders Geitvikneset Boulder C | ||||||
| 5C |
Diagonalrisset
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| 5B |
Høyrerisset
| |||||
| 4C |
Extremehøyre
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| 4C |
Venstrerisset
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| 4C |
Centralrisset
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| Fri 13th Nov 2020 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
| 6 |
★★★ Lundeklubben
- with
Vegard With Stennes
| 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs
|
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| Wed 21st Oct 2020 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet | ||||||
| 3+ |
★★ Back to Paradise
| 27m | ||||
| 5- |
Bunkered paradise
| Average | ||||
| 3+ |
★★ Too Wide for Paradise
| 27m | ||||
| 5+ |
Escape to paradise
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| 4 |
★ Storsvaet
| 30m | ★ Good | |||