Ascents in Oceania as trad by Josh Ellis

Forgot to log this at the time but from memory pinged off above the flake and took a proper whip for the first time ever on gear, screamed like a girl, very embarrassing, good times.

New proj lol

Had delusions of flashing this… fell at every bolt and couldn’t do the crux. Blamed it on the sun going down…

Went up three times, could gain the pocket but could not get my bloody foot up after that. Must’ve tried 30 times, 10 different ways all up! Been a while since I’ve been shut down on a 25. Brutal.

Did it as two pitches as described but the belay ledge is super awkward and a pain with an 80m rope, would suggest doing as one (maybe it’s too wondery 🤷‍♀️). Either way great fun/exposure. Totally worth pumping myself out flaking the 80m three times over because of my terrible rope management!

Pretty close to the flash thanks to Kat Hayhoe setting ‘er up and showing me the moves. Should go next time, be a good warm up for Slinkin’ I reckon!

Nice lil’ warm up courtesy of Matt Brooks gear.

Bit of a faff fest, probably my own fault, built the first anchor in a bit of an awkward position, got a nut stuck on the second anchor then had to find our way down in the dark. At least I took the headlamps! 🤷‍♀️

It took my phone and my shorts, maybe it's type 3 fun?

Forgot to log this at the time, James lead this, I lead Jihad, not sure which was more terrifying!

Followed Caroline Chang up this to access "Tannin"

Forgot to log this at the time, pretty exposed (read "bloody terryifying").

Bloody brilliant!

Fun jaunt with Lou Man for his first “proper” trad leads. We were pretty efficient till the last pitch where I managed to create an 40m knot in the rope that required about 0.5km of rope pulling which added about 45minutes to the excursion, definitely the crux! Rapped down in the dark for the epic!

Great lil' expdition for Tanya's first outing. Great gear throughout with a couple of classy moves through the buges at the top.

Getting around the bulge seemed a bit spicy initially (espcially as there's not really any pro after the piton!) but was actually fine, basically a wondery gym climb after that!

Might have done this before? Either way I doubt I fell off. Squeezed a couple of jams outta it’ worth a go.

Probably should have took an extra cam (I had 2 reds and a gold) but fun lil number. Hard to not step on the block out right!

Spicy “warm up” after not climbing/doing trad for ages!

Stitched it up and still kinda’ shat myself on the traverse under roof! First trad lead in a while I guess, what a route to get back into it though!

Might have done this with Anne years ago maybe? But pretty sure I would’ve onsighted it back then anyways. Great climb, some outrageous positions for the grade. Megan Ellis first trad lead!

Lovely Arapilian smoothness through the crux. Very classy.

First proper crack climb! Actually smooshed a few jams in! I have a vague memory of Dan Marshman taking me up a crack on probably my first Arapiles trip years ago but was can’t remember if it was this or some other crack so maybe it’s an onsight or maybe it’s actually not? 😂

Mega first lead by Caroline Chang!

Solid lead from mr Tommathy swift bit of a one mover but a heck of a move for the grade!

Probably more laybacked than jammed, made putting in cams kinda’ blind so I just put in lots.

Just as good as the original!

Clipping the piton would have been spicy without the sling already in I reckon! Cheers Ben for going up first!

Slightly pumpier version of “Muldoon”

Caroline Chang’s first trad multi, what a great experience and throughly enjoyed the beer we carried up at the top. Good work Caroline Chang 🤟

Mega lead by Tommathy swift! Fell out of a sloppy jam, lowered back down to chockstone and then went clean to the top. Think I’d like to toppy it again before leading though, was proper working for it!

Left some statics for the escape, went up on the micro trax which was quite smooth actually. Pretty hard with a big pack after a day of climbing!