Sit start with both hands and feet on the arete, lay back your way up to top corner of arete then trend left not using the top of the boulder until you pass the ‘disconnected’ bloc then top out to finish.
A fun 100m long traverse in an incredible location.
Start at the entry of the obvious deep ravine, climb 2m up the RHS arete and keep traversing right, keeping 1 to 2.5m high all the way to the manky end of the wall, going through some interesting overhanging moves.
The rock is crumbling in places on the surface so look for big holds.
Starts 3m R of detached block which forms a chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Ascends pockets (protectable) and then an unprotected slab. Looks like it finishes on a grassy ledge below the overhang - uncertain finish & descent.
An older rambling line on the right of the
easy angled slab. Abseil down to the first or second ledge
depending on the swell. The lower is a slightly harder line.
Trend left along the diagonal cracks on either line then up
through a steeper section with horizontal breaks.Continue
straight up or move right to a large crack.
Two ropes are useful owing to rope drag.
J.Nevin ca. 2001
10m R of Arrow, there is a nice little line the follows a groove/crack up the rock. Up the crack and around a block and then up and R following the line. It would take some gear. Probably a scramble off R. Possibly hasn't been climbed before.
One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.
The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.
It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.
The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.
Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.
27m (- M4) Move left and up incipient groove to ledge. BB on right.
40m (12 M3) Step up right (BR) and then left to the foot of a crack. Free up the crack, switching to aid when necessary. Finish with some bolts then free to a big ledge.
10m (-) Step right and up to next ledge.
27m (- M3) The crack, mostly aid, to below the roof.
15m (- M4) The thin crack in the outrageously exposed roof.
