Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Törnskogsklippan | |||||||
Järnpinneväggen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Chippad av staten — 4 attempts - with anna | 12m, 6 | |||||
One fall, then up with no rest. Feels super technical, easy to slip off!
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Kanalklippan | |||||||
6a+ | Pyssel | 20m | |||||
5+ ~6- | Snubben med nubben | 10m | |||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Kanalklippan | |||||||
6a Hard | Stockholm Sightseeing | 15m | |||||
6b | ★ Pick pocket | 22m | |||||
5+ ~6 | ★ Helt galen | 16m | |||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
West | |||||||
6c | ★★ Verklighet | 17m, 8 | |||||
Fri 10th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, left | |||||||
7b | ★★ Nattskiftet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 10th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7a | ★★ Panta Rei | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tue 7th May 2024 - Kanalklippan | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Kanalen - Short | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Skevik | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Snabbare än tiden | ||||||
7b | ★★ Non-Stop — 2 attempts - with Matt Evans | 28m | |||||
Worked on the moves up to the big runout. Good and insecure climbing all the way, I understand why its callted non-stop!
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Träskberget | |||||||
Stora Träskberget | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Sno från dom rika direct | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Thu 2nd May 2024 - Gåseborg | |||||||
Djävulsväggen | |||||||
6a | ★ Wall Hall - Kratrar | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Ryssgraven | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Trotskij | 9m, 4 | |||||
5b | ★★ Plåster på såren | 22m, 6 | |||||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Orhem | |||||||
Christers Väggar | |||||||
6B | I'm a sendin man — 2 attempts | ||||||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7b | ★★ Orup | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Orhem | |||||||
Christers Väggar | |||||||
6C | ★ Flash Gordon — 3 attempts | ||||||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Gåseborg | |||||||
Djävulsväggen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Bella ciao - with Francesco Mancino | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
6c | ★★ Talk är tungt - with Francesco Mancino | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, right | |||||||
6a | ★ Pommesshit - with Francesco Mancino | ★ Good | |||||
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Ekoberget | |||||||
7a | ★★ Anomalocaris — 3 attempts - with emil | 28m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could do all the moves, but needed to stick clip the crux.
A bit scary and runout clip, but a challenge i want to pursue! Really cool climbing.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Hamra grustag | |||||||
Höger | |||||||
6c | Andra advent | 10m | |||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Hamra grustag | |||||||
Sandlåda, remaining | |||||||
7b | The sands of all time (the top bit) | 8m | |||||
Wed 14th Feb 2024 - Klättercentret Solna | |||||||
A Sektionen | |||||||
7A+ | ★★ A5.3 Yellow - with Elena Ruiz | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not a serious attempt due to rental shoes.
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6C+ | ★★★ A2.1 Yellow - with Elena Ruiz | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice attempt to this physical boulder problem. I needed to leave but I felt I could handle it.
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6C | ★ A3.1 Black - with Elena Ruiz | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Not a serious attempt due to rental shoes, where the start feet is tiny.
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7A | ★★★ A3.1 Yellow — 2 attempts - with Elena Ruiz | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice attempt in this slab boulder but being far away to send it.
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6C | ★★ A2.1 Dark Green - with Elena Ruiz | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great attempt but very physical to send it
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6C+ | ★ A1.2 Dark Green - with Elena Ruiz | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Very physical start that I cannot handle
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6C | ★★★ A6.3 Yellow — 4 attempts | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super great boulder problem, where the most difficult part lies on the top. The rest is okish and I could handle it since the attempt number 2.
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Wed 14th Feb 2024 - Klättercentret Solna | |||||||
B Sektionen | |||||||
6B+ | B4.1 Green — 2 attempts | 4m | Average | ||||
Physical boulder but not so quality feet holds, which are very slippery.
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6C | ★★ B2.10 Purple — 3 attempts | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A great route, but very intense for finger strength.
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6C | ★ B4.1 Blue | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Not really my type, but interesting 6c.
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Wed 14th Feb 2024 - Klättercentret Solna | |||||||
A Sektionen | |||||||
6B+ | ★★ A5.5 White | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
An interesting route but I'm not able to start properly as the tags display.
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6B+ | ★ A7.3 Dark Green | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Not being to complete it. I'm not able to find any feet after the first two movements.
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Älvnäs | |||||||
6c | ★★ Kalles Kaviar — 3 attempts - with Matt Evans | 14m, 9 | |||||
Hard and super fun start. The last part is a bit easyer, but a wet hold and my indecision made me fall at the top two times...
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Mon 16th Oct 2023 - Törnskogsklippan | |||||||
Järnpinneväggen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Chippad av staten — 3 attempts - with Anna | 12m, 6 | |||||
Night session! Hard crimps, technical amd bouldery.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
6c+ Hard | ★ Pickespricke | 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Burly, some awkward clips.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7a+ Easy | ★★ Pumpmaskin — 2 attempts - with Matt Evans | 25m | |||||
Start pretty techncal, into a really fun crux. Lets see if i can link it!
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Nescafe - with johan | 12m | |||||
Tried the lower moves, the top was wet so we ended it with Casal.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
6c | ★★ Silicon valley — 2 attempts | 28m | |||||
Really committing and delicate ending, my lead attempt did not go so well. Managed to do the moves on toprope, but still feels quite stiff for the grade.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Ekoberget | |||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★ Calle förlitar sig på molntjänster | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
6c | ★★ Ekoturism | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
Slab wall | |||||||
6a ~6b | Hoppa in | Average | |||||
Very hard,cruxy start, the rest is easy
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7a | ★★ Panta Rei | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sustained.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
6c | ★★ Rövsvett — 2 attempts | 12m | |||||
Fun, big moves in the start follwed by technical climbing in towards the top. Next time!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7b | ★★ Utan Smör | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bouldery start, scary part in the middle, tricky at the end on sidepull slopers.
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Münchenbryggeriet | |||||||
6c | Babba Bitch - with claudic ira | ||||||
Balied from the anchor at the ledge. Felt really hard and it was getting dark!
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Gåseborg | |||||||
Ravinen | |||||||
7a | ★★ Himmler | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Vårdberget | |||||||
Lilla Vårdberget | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Paulins inflyttningsfest - with Ola | 15m, 7 | |||||
Messed up my footwork in the crux.
Was a cool sequence once i got it, sadly no time for a redpoint attempt.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Gåseborg | |||||||
Ravinen | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★ Diktator | 16m | Average | ||||
7a Hard | ★★ Himmler | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Kanalklippan | |||||||
5+ | ★ Helt galen | 16m | |||||
6b | ★ Styrman Stake | 27m | |||||
6b+ | ★ Prime time | 15m | |||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Dumpster diving | ||||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
6c | ★ Ghetto rebel | 12m | |||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Beatelund | |||||||
6c | ★ Mosarmasse | 20m, 8 | |||||
Dirty & scary.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
7a ~7b | Bultfeber | ||||||
Might be morpho?
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Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Henriksdalsberget | |||||||
6c+ ~6c+ Hard | ★★ Ursprunget | ||||||
I am embarrassed as all hell that I still cant get this. I am so frustrated. I need THREE goes in a session, I never get three. I always have to get the dyno (IT IS ONE & IT IS NOT 6c) working again on the warm-up. This time I did it PERFECTLY second go. PERFECTLY. Cut my feet, re-established, clipped the next, got my heel hook... but I forgot to swap my hands so that the RIGHT ONE is under the QD that pinches your hand and you can use the left gaston with the left hand to bump to the good hold above. And it was DARK. I could NOT SEE MY FEET below the overhang to even have a chance to catch just the right little thing in the crack with my left foot. Fail. I don't understand why I just never get this. I am so much stronger than this. I am so extremely disappointed. A lot of people tell me to stop projecting 7c, but honestly, the moves on my projects go with more certainty??? And I like that more??? At least I found the send motivation again, but I went home crying
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6c+ ~6c+ Hard | ★★ Ursprunget | ||||||
rock felt shitty today
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
Put in the QDs first go. Second go I had to grab pretty much all of them Not like Sunday. But they need to be extended even more, and I need to make sure to tell belayers to give slack fast. I found new beta in the crux, to grab the pinch with the left hand to establish body higher up before going left. Felt good. It isn't clear what to do starting the part right before the crux, when you work up to the shouldery move. Still nervous about clipping bolt 2, and the one right before the slab section - what to grab with left hand?
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans — 2 attempts | 18m | |||||
Hang dogged the whole route WITHOUT a panic draw!!! First time!!! Had first 2 pre-clipped, grabbed draw 8 and pulled on it, but no others. Fingers were raw... Remember to clip the 5th from the left hand. Use the low gaston with right hand. match in crack to shake out. Use the sloper for balance before going for the 2 finger undercling. After the jug of the crux, right foot on tick, left foot on slopey spot above and right of QD. Then bring right foot to tiny hold after you establish on upper gaston. Check on left side because as you reach up there are possible intermediates before the crimp jug. This next tiny bit is unclear before you get to a bit better feet and holds.
Extend draws by one LONGGGG link: 4, 5, maybe 6 (or short link), 8 (definitely). Did not do all moves on this attempt, pulled through bits of them a little to focus on clipping (e.g. crux and 8th draw especially). Climbing partner said I am ready to actually lead it!!!
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7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
Went up on the LOOSE end of the rope on top rope. Really tried to understand where to clip the 2nd draw from and the moves before and after the crux. The crux was NOT going as well (well no possibility of rope tension) and took a LOT of tries to get the way I had other days. The moves right after the crux did not feel as solid, either. just harder to launch for the gaston.
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7b | ★★ Tabu | 28m | |||||
On the LOOSE end of the rope again I top roped this as a warm-up. ALL the moves went better, fell a lot less/went in direct a lot less/less of a fight, the top section makes sense, the middle makes more sense. I sort of have some ideas for after the crux. Kelly said at the top undercling to grab the shitty sloper crimp below the QD to get the left foot high so you can use the undercling and go left to a better crimp. Also, on the section before the pitons, there are hidden slot holds on the right side. Find them! Definitely can lead this again soon, but would need one more top rope go of the whole thing.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Underarmsufo — 2 attempts | ||||||
Nice climb, rally hard start followed by good flowy climbing to the top. Too pumped from panta rei to send today.
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7a | ★★ Panta Rei — 3 attempts | ||||||
3rd attempt felt really good, got up to the ledge, 2 draws from the top. From there i needed one hang at each draw, but starting to feel possible.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
7a+ ~7a+ | ★★ Casall | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7c | ★★ Utan Tvekan | 25m | |||||
Too wet and too tired so just was working first 5 bolts. Move to 5th bolt still not going well...
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
First 7c hang dog of a whole route! Used my panic draw to accomplish this though so not entirely... But no clip stick! First 2 pre-clipped. Struggled a lot clipping while doing moves from 3 to 4, and the moves on the crimps from 4 to 5 we're not going well. Need better feet. Feel like my right hand top finger joints invert on the sidepull crimp. Other beta would be better. Should maybe extend clip 5 even more. Crux move went in segments but not perfectly. Harder to clip 6 & 7 then I thought it would be, esp 7, the jugs felt bad - my skin already worn through??
Had to use panic draw again on 8 but landed the move using the 2 finger crimp on left and a sorta left heel to get the right sidepull. Tried that Monday and it didn't go... Feels reachy still and clip position as well as feet aren't clear.
Then led the next runout slab but to the last bolt for the first time without a clip stick. Grabbed the draw in the end. Not sure the crystally pinch I'm trying to clip from is ideal. But I made it to the anchors
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7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
Stick clipped up to place draws. Managed to put QDs in 3&4 just like Monday. But the moves were harder before the crux. Managed crux move 5,th go but not linked to the part before it
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Törnskogsklippan | |||||||
Järnpinneväggen | |||||||
6c | ★ Sponsrad av kapitalet - with Erik | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Han time to forget the beta... Next time!
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7a | ★★ Panta Rei — 2 attempts | ||||||
Lots of rests, focusing on learning an effective beta. Linkup will be a challenge.
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Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
Stick clipped up. Crux didn't go. Managed to put QD in on 3rd and 4th bolts both this time (without stick clip)
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Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Dödskalleberget | |||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Asers Arête | 15m | |||||
Surprisingly harder start for the grade, becoming easier as you commit. Superb rock quality.
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7b+ Hard | ★★ Mio — 3 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is hard, needing flexibility and reach
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Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Gåseborg | |||||||
Ravinen | |||||||
7a+ ~7b | ★★ Tirpitz | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
The merging to Himler is no joke
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
7b Easy | ★★ På vårkanten | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Klättermusen | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Kanalklippan | |||||||
5 | Apa i bur - with xenia | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Ekoberget | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Yohoia — 2 attempts - with ola | 30m, 10 | |||||
Dont trust all the chalk! Crux is had to read, and pretty powerful. After that follows sensitive slab climbing to the top. All moves felt good on my second try, but to tired to go for a real attempt.
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7c+ ~7c+ | ★★ Vinna Eller Försvinna | ||||||
Got on this at the end. I have to remember the left crimp pinch to get up to the clip before the crux starts... Also that the first "serious" clip after the Orup start is clipped best from the biggest hold below, rather than continuing to bump the hand up
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7c | ★★ Utan Tvekan | 25m | |||||
Worked the first 5 bolts. First 4 I did in isolation but each move went first go, just have to get clip spots. Then I spent a long time trying to get to the 5th. I think I figured it out going left into the direkt insteg near that bolt, and some kind of drop knee to match on the clip hold and bump or cross to the crimp. But now I'm very uncertain how to clip the one above it, and get through the crux. That's going to take work and feels demotivating. It seemed impossible :S
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7a | ★★ Panta Rei | ||||||
Had some issues getting to the last bolt, and it got dark. The parts I climbed I really liked, big moves on nice rock.
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
West | |||||||
6c Easy | ★★ Verklighet | 17m, 8 | Average | ||||
Did not like all the loose blocks too much.
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, left | |||||||
7c+ | ★★ Bad Boys | ||||||
Made a pathetic warm-up attempt using this route today but it didn't feel good at all compared to the other time I tried it. Felt so insecure with the clips for some reason. Holds were a bit damp still from rain yesterday
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Lätta | ||||||
First try in a year. Start was difficult. But top didn't feel as scary as last year
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7c | ★★ Utan Tvekan | 25m | |||||
Worked first 4 bolts again. Got the moves a bit more solid, they make more sense... Not where to clip though yet
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★ Imperiet | ||||||
body direction is where it's at
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7c | ★★ Utan Tvekan | 25m | |||||
Led first 4 bolts hang dogging up. Worked on moves and clipping positions. Intense even there but feels more doable than Siddharta. Throws in precise core tension moves. Very "on" immediately compared to e.g. Bad Boys or Vinna eller försvinna, better jugs and holds than Siddharta, more intuitive
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7c | ★★ Utan Tvekan | 25m | |||||
Stick clipped all but 3 draws of the first 8. Feels slightly easier than Siddharta but still have many questions
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Sjötorpsberget | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Klättermusen | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
really pulled to the crux as I was quite sore by this point, tried quite hard to get there, and it was getting dark. Stick clipped the remaining 2 draws and anchor in the dark. The part right after the crux is very unclear. Next time I need to work on where to clip from and really figure out feet and hands for after the crux.
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7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
Plan was to go bolt to bolt. The first section felt great, then got to the portion where I would go up the crack to clip the second - and that made no sense how to clip. Managed to clip the 3rd. Then felt unbalanced in the move above the 3rd to think about how to clip bolt 4... So I used the panic draw on this and the next 3 bolts through the crux. Friction for feet felt slippery and bad, making the crux too tricky for me today. Then was stuck above the crux where the crimps start and could not use the panic draw to go bolt to bolt, and retreated
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
I think I understand a little bit more of it. Especially the first 2 bolts and the part before the crux. But the crux didn't feel as good as this weekend. The top was ok. Last bolt to anchor is wonderful. Crimps immediately after crux are hard to read
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Ekoberget | |||||||
6c | ★ Yggdrasil | ||||||
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans | 18m | |||||
Second time trying it, but didn't top rope above the crux. The start I am doing very inefficiently and making harder than it needs to be. the crux goes with the little 2 finger crimp and a dynamic move, but not the part before it which feels like the crimps above the hard part of Tabu. Someday soon will do the part above the crux
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7b | ★★ Tabu | 28m | |||||
Finally top roped the whole thing. Not through the draws, loose rope, so took falls whenever I didn't make a move.
Things that went better:
Right after crux. Go far right temporarily to jugs. crimp section, can twist through to get the bad hold at the bolt. Use a tiny intermediate crimp to get next hold.
Section I never lead before piton: feet still not clear. Maybe need to go left?
Deadpoint to the bolt jug worked better but have to commit.
New questions: Not clear how to rest at piton. The next moves at the next bolt are not solid. What am I supposed to grab? Do I use the slopey undercling? On last 2 bolts, the jug at the first one is clear, but going to the anchors, there are some sketchy weird moves with unclear feet. What should I use? |