A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Hard Landin' Brandon Sergey Komarov Justin Case Simon Dale Kai Richard Pattison Andy Gnarr David Gibbs Brendan Heywood rick
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Yosemite National Park
3156 in Crag
-
1.1.
Yosemite Valley 2185 in Area
-
1.1.1.
North Lower Merced Canyon 485 in Area
- 1.1.1.1. Arch Rock 43 in Area
- 1.1.1.2. The Cookie Cliff 56 in Area
- 1.1.1.3. Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area 47 in Area
- 1.1.1.4. Knob Hill 10 in Area
- 1.1.1.5. Reed's Pinnacle Area 52 in Cliff
- 1.1.1.6. Five and Dime Cliff 17 in Area
- 1.1.1.7. Highway Star Bluff 2 in Area
-
1.1.1.8.
Parkline Area 25 in Area
- 1.1.1.8.1. Parkline Slab 22 in Area
- 1.1.1.8.2. Narrow Escape Cliff 3 in Area
- 1.1.1.9. Short Circuit Boulder 2 in Area
- 1.1.1.10. Dog Dik Cliff 5 in Area
- 1.1.1.11. Finger Lickin' Cliff 11 in Area
- 1.1.1.12. Roadside Attraction Area 7 in Area
- 1.1.1.13. Kat Pinnacle 5 in Area
- 1.1.1.14. Bobcat Buttress 6 in Area
- 1.1.1.15. Boulder Cracks 2 in Area
- 1.1.1.16. Oreo Cliff 7 in Area
- 1.1.1.17. Above The Cookie 12 in Area
-
1.1.1.18.
Wildcat Falls Area 12 in Area
- 1.1.1.18.1. Through Bein' Cool 3 in Area
- 1.1.1.18.2. Knobby Wall 9 in Area
-
1.1.1.19.
Cascade Falls 28 in Area
- 1.1.1.19.1. Left Side 19 in Area
- 1.1.1.19.2. Upper 4 in Area
- 1.1.1.19.3. Right Side 5 in Area
- 1.1.1.20. This and That Cliff 29 in Area
- 1.1.1.21. Generator Station 4 in Area
- 1.1.1.22. New Diversions Cliff 19 in Area
- 1.1.1.23. Trix Area 4 in Area
- 1.1.1.24. Owl Roof Area 18 in Area
- 1.1.1.25. Goldrush Area 11 in Area
- 1.1.1.26. Fantasy Island 4 in Area
- 1.1.1.27. The Mojo Tooth 25 in Area
- 1.1.1.28. Last Resort Cliff 17 in Area
- 1.1.1.29. Audubon Buttress 5 in Area
-
1.1.2.
South Lower Merced Canyon 125 in Area
-
1.1.2.1.
Turtleback Dome 85 in Area
- 1.1.2.1.1. Super Nova Area 3 in Area
- 1.1.2.1.2. The Rostrum 24 in Area
- 1.1.2.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard 6 in Area
- 1.1.2.1.4. Elephant Rock 41 in Area
- 1.1.2.1.5. Overview 11 in Area
- 1.1.2.2. Discovery View 1 in Area
- 1.1.2.3. Wawona Tunnel, Eastern Vent 1 in Area
- 1.1.2.4. Flagman Buttress 2 in Area
-
1.1.2.5.
Pulpit Rock 14 in Area
- 1.1.2.5.1. Southeast Face 6 in Area
- 1.1.2.5.2. Northwest Face 5 in Area
- 1.1.2.5.3. High Pressure Cliff 3 in Area
- 1.1.2.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End 8 in Area
- 1.1.2.7. Wawona Tunnel, West 2 in Area
- 1.1.2.8. Cream Area 6 in Area
- 1.1.2.9. The Blowhole 6 in Area
-
1.1.2.1.
Turtleback Dome 85 in Area
-
1.1.3.
Cathedral Rocks 129 in Area
- 1.1.3.1. Phantom Pinnacle 2 in Area
- 1.1.3.2. Higher Cathedral Spire 7 in Area
- 1.1.3.3. Lower Cathedral Spire 2 in Area
- 1.1.3.4. Higher Cathedral Rock 16 in Area
-
1.1.3.5.
Middle Cathedral Rock 57 in Area
- 1.1.3.5.1. Cathedral Chimney 1 in Area
- 1.1.3.5.2. East Buttress 4 in Area
- 1.1.3.5.3. Northeast Face 14 in Area
- 1.1.3.5.4. North Buttress 6 in Area
- 1.1.3.5.5. North Face Base, Left 6 in Area
- 1.1.3.5.6. North Face Apron 21 in Area
- 1.1.3.5.7. North Face 5 in Area
-
1.1.3.6.
Lower Cathedral Rock 45 in Area
- 1.1.3.6.1. North Face / Gunsight Area / Mecca 18 in Area
- 1.1.3.6.2. North Buttress / Toejo 9 in Area
- 1.1.3.6.3. Lower Cathedral West 5 in Area
- 1.1.3.6.4. Bridalveil Falls Area 1 in Area
- 1.1.3.6.5. Unknown 12 in Area
-
1.1.4.
El Capitan 253 in Area
- 1.1.4.1. West Face 6 in Area
- 1.1.4.2. Southwest Face 36 in Cliff
- 1.1.4.3. Southeast Face 41 in Area
- 1.1.4.4. West Buttress Base Area 13 in Area
- 1.1.4.5. Delectable Pinnacle 6 in Area
- 1.1.4.6. Southwest Base Area 32 in Sector
- 1.1.4.7. Southeast Base Area 27 in Area
-
1.1.4.8.
Schultz's Ridge 26 in Area
- 1.1.4.8.1. West Side 12 in Area
- 1.1.4.8.2. East Side 6 in Area
- 1.1.4.8.3. Dan and Jerry's Playground 8 in Area
- 1.1.4.9. Loggerhead Buttress 38 in Area
- 1.1.4.10. Slab Happy Pinnacle 7 in Area
- 1.1.4.11. East Ledges Area 1 in Area
- 1.1.4.12. Miscellaneous 20 in Area
- 1.1.5. Eagle Peak 0 in Area
-
1.1.6.
Yosemite Falls 163 in Area
-
1.1.6.1.
Lower Yosemite Falls 120 in Area
- 1.1.6.1.1. Swan Slab 40 in Cliff
- 1.1.6.1.2. Five Open Books 30 in Cliff
- 1.1.6.1.3. Sunnyside Bench, Far Left 2 in Area
- 1.1.6.1.4. Sunnyside Bench 33 in Area
- 1.1.6.1.5. Sunnyside Bench, Far Right 1 in Area
- 1.1.6.1.6. East 4 in Area
- 1.1.6.1.7. Lower Ampitheater 10 in Area
- 1.1.6.2. Upper Yosemite Falls 28 in Area
- 1.1.6.3. Upper Yosemite Falls Trail 15 in Area
-
1.1.6.1.
Lower Yosemite Falls 120 in Area
-
1.1.7.
The Royal Arches 145 in Area
- 1.1.7.1. Indian Canyon 5 in Area
- 1.1.7.2. Church Bowl 31 in Area
- 1.1.7.3. Church Bowl, Far Right 5 in Area
- 1.1.7.4. Rhombus Wall 2 in Area
- 1.1.7.5. Serenity Crack Area 23 in Area
- 1.1.7.6. Devil's Bathtub Area 25 in Area
- 1.1.7.7. The Shining Area 6 in Area
- 1.1.7.8. The Royal Arches Base, Center 15 in Area
- 1.1.7.9. The Royal Arches Center 6 in Area
- 1.1.7.10. Terrace Area 20 in Area
- 1.1.7.11. Horse Trail Boulder Cracks 7 in Area
-
1.1.8.
Washington Column 33 in Area
- 1.1.8.1. Base Area 14 in Area
- 1.1.8.2. South Face 6 in Area
- 1.1.8.3. East Face 13 in Area
- 1.1.9. North Dome 10 in Area
-
1.1.10.
Half Dome 45 in Area
- 1.1.10.1. Northwest Face 16 in Area
- 1.1.10.2. Southwest Face 12 in Area
- 1.1.10.3. South Face 7 in Area
- 1.1.10.4. Miscellaneous 6 in Area
- 1.1.10.5. Porcelain Wall 4 in Area
-
1.1.11.
Glacier Point 145 in Area
- 1.1.11.1. Mt Broderick 2 in Area
- 1.1.11.2. Illilouette Canyon 13 in Area
- 1.1.11.3. Glacier Point Apron 104 in Area
- 1.1.11.4. Staircase Falls Area 12 in Area
- 1.1.11.5. Liberty Cap 6 in Area
- 1.1.11.6. Firefall Wall 2 in Area
- 1.1.11.7. Panorama Cliff 1 in Area
- 1.1.11.8. 9 O'Clock Wall 4 in Area
- 1.1.11.9. Vernal Falls 1 in Crag
-
1.1.12.
Sentinel Rock Area 158 in Area
-
1.1.12.1.
Public Sanitation 21 in Area
- 1.1.12.1.1. Lower Tier 8 in Area
- 1.1.12.1.2. Upper Tier 13 in Area
- 1.1.12.2. Chapel Wall 43 in Area
- 1.1.12.3. Chapel Wall, Far Right 8 in Area
- 1.1.12.4. Sentinel Rock 9 in Area
- 1.1.12.5. Sentinel Creek 26 in Area
- 1.1.12.6. Pharaoh's Beard Area 6 in Area
- 1.1.12.7. Lost Brother 7 in Area
- 1.1.12.8. Taft Point 6 in Area
- 1.1.12.9. B-1 Boulder 13 in Boulder
- 1.1.12.10. Small Boulder behind B-1 Boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.1.12.11. Midget Boulders 14 in Boulder
-
1.1.12.1.
Public Sanitation 21 in Area
-
1.1.13.
Cloud's Rest Area 2 in Area
- 1.1.13.1. Cloud's Rest Approach 1 in Area
-
1.1.14.
Ribbon Falls 37 in Area
- 1.1.14.1. Nuts Only Cliff 2 in Area
- 1.1.14.2. Little Wing Area 18 in Area
- 1.1.14.3. Ribbon Falls Amphitheatre 17 in Area
-
1.1.15.
Three Brothers 92 in Area
-
1.1.15.1.
Eagle Creek Area 22 in Area
- 1.1.15.1.1. Manure Pile Buttress / Ranger Rock 17 in Crag
- 1.1.15.1.2. Commissioner Buttress 3 in Area
- 1.1.15.1.3. Upper 2 in Area
-
1.1.15.2.
Lower Brother 22 in Area
- 1.1.15.2.1. 4th Street Area 7 in Area
- 1.1.15.2.2. Absolutely Free Area 5 in Area
- 1.1.15.2.3. Michael's Ledge 10 in Area
-
1.1.15.3.
Middle Brother 48 in Area
- 1.1.15.3.1. Rixon's Pinnacle 7 in Area
- 1.1.15.3.2. The Folly 10 in Area
- 1.1.15.3.3. Camp 4 Wall 31 in Cliff
-
1.1.15.1.
Eagle Creek Area 22 in Area
-
1.1.16.
Tenaya Canyon 45 in Area
- 1.1.16.1. Basket Dome 3 in Area
- 1.1.16.2. Mirror Lake Area 12 in Area
- 1.1.16.3. Apathy Buttress 13 in Area
- 1.1.16.4. Mt Watkins 7 in Area
- 1.1.16.5. YaSoo Dome 2 in Area
- 1.1.16.6. East Quarter Dome 4 in Area
- 1.1.16.7. West Quarter Dome 1 in Area
- 1.1.16.8. Above Mirror Lake 1 in Area
- 1.1.16.9. Silver Platter 2 in Area
-
1.1.17.
Leaning Tower 42 in Area
- 1.1.17.1. Left Side 1 in Area
- 1.1.17.2. West Face 8 in Area
- 1.1.17.3. B.O.L.T. Wall 2 in Area
- 1.1.17.4. Base 14 in Area
- 1.1.17.5. FiFi Buttress, West Face 10 in Area
- 1.1.17.6. The Widow's Tears Area 6 in Area
-
1.1.18.
Camp 4 130 in Field
- 1.1.18.1. Little Columbia Boulder 7 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.2. Big Columbia Boulder 12 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.3. Titanic Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.4. Goodrich Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.5. Pratt Boulder 5 in Boulder
-
1.1.18.6.
Wine Boulders 31 in Field
- 1.1.18.6.1. Blue Suede Shoes Boulder 9 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.6.2. Cocaine Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.6.3. Wine Boulder 8 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.6.4. Wine Warmup Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.6.5. Shiver Me Timbers Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.6.6. Pinball & Hammerhead Boulders 1 in Area
- 1.1.18.7. Blockhead 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.8. Falls Trail Boulders 13 in Field
- 1.1.18.9. Thriller Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.10. Kor Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.11. Energy Boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.12. The Glass Pyramid 8 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.13. Bachar Cracker Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.14. Shrink Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.15. Manual Labor Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.16. Rebirthing Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.17. Bear Hug 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.18.18. Ament Arete Boulder 13 in Area
- 1.1.19. Presidential Boulder 7 in Boulder
-
1.1.20.
Housekeeping area 61 in Field
- 1.1.20.1. Athletes Die Young boulders 0 in Boulder
- 1.1.20.2. LeConte Boulder 18 in Boulder
- 1.1.20.3. Pathway Boulders 16 in Boulder
- 1.1.20.4. The Hidden Loaf 5 in Unknown
- 1.1.20.5. The Housekeeping Boulder 11 in Boulder
-
1.1.21.
Curry Village 48 in Area
- 1.1.21.1. The Angler Boulder 12 in Boulder
- 1.1.21.2. Kevin's Traverse Boulder 7 in Boulder
- 1.1.21.3. The Zorro Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.21.4. Circuit Breaker 1 in Unknown
- 1.1.21.5. Bathroom Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.21.6. Joe's Garage Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.1.21.7. New Deli Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.21.8. Flapping Shoe Boulders 7 in Boulder
- 1.1.22. Dewey Point 2 in Crag
-
1.1.23.
Ahwahnee Area 28 in Field
- 1.1.23.1. Ahwahnee Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.23.2. Ahwahnee Fin 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.23.3. Soto Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.23.4. Cold Boulders 5 in Area
- 1.1.23.5. Gorilla Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.1.23.6. 2x2 Boulders 4 in Field
- 1.1.23.7. Atlas 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.23.8. No Fur 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.23.9. Warm Up 6 in Boulder
-
1.1.1.
North Lower Merced Canyon 485 in Area
- 1.2. Tamarack Flat Boulders 0 in Field
-
1.3.
Tuolumne Meadows 958 in Area
-
1.3.1.
Olmstead Area 50 in Area
- 1.3.1.1. Crane Flat Ranger Station 1 in Area
- 1.3.1.2. Coyote Rocks 6 in Area
- 1.3.1.3. Roadrunner Rock 6 in Area
- 1.3.1.4. De Gaulle's Nose 4 in Area
- 1.3.1.5. Osprey Overhang 3 in Area
- 1.3.1.6. Olmstead Canyon 29 in Area
- 1.3.1.7. Olmstead Point 1 in Area
-
1.3.2.
Polly Dome 182 in Area
-
1.3.2.1.
Stately Pleasure Dome 53 in Area
- 1.3.2.1.1. South Face 25 in Sector
- 1.3.2.1.2. East Face 28 in Sector
- 1.3.2.2. Harlequin Dome 12 in Area
- 1.3.2.3. The Shark 5 in Area
- 1.3.2.4. Guppie Wall 6 in Area
- 1.3.2.5. Mountaineer's Dome 21 in Area
- 1.3.2.6. Circle A Wall 7 in Area
- 1.3.2.7. The Bunny Slopes 11 in Area
- 1.3.2.8. The Block Area 12 in Area
- 1.3.2.9. Phobos/Deimos Cliff 13 in Area
- 1.3.2.10. The Arena 7 in Area
- 1.3.2.11. Low Profile Dome 21 in Area
- 1.3.2.12. Murphy Creek 12 in Area
- 1.3.2.13. The Knobs 0 in Field
- 1.3.2.14. Galen's Crack 2 in Cliff
-
1.3.2.1.
Stately Pleasure Dome 53 in Area
-
1.3.3.
Tenaya Peak Area 40 in Area
- 1.3.3.1. Tenaya Peak Wall 5 in Area
- 1.3.3.2. Tenaya Peak, Lower Wall 6 in Area
- 1.3.3.3. Tenaya Peak, Skyline Crags 12 in Area
- 1.3.3.4. Proctology Wall 2 in Area
- 1.3.3.5. Guns of Navrone 15 in Area
-
1.3.4.
Pywiack Area 43 in Area
- 1.3.4.1. Pywiack Dome 18 in Cliff
- 1.3.4.2. Pywiack Headwall 3 in Area
- 1.3.4.3. Pywiack, Southeast Face 7 in Cliff
- 1.3.4.4. Pennyroyal Arches 12 in Area
- 1.3.4.5. Pennyroyal Arches Headwall 3 in Area
-
1.3.5.
Medlicott Area 126 in Area
-
1.3.5.1.
Medlicott Dome 91 in Area
- 1.3.5.1.1. South Face 5 in Area
- 1.3.5.1.2. East 13 in Area
- 1.3.5.1.3. Middling/Coming Area 8 in Area
- 1.3.5.1.4. White Line Fever Area 7 in Area
- 1.3.5.1.5. Center 44 in Area
- 1.3.5.1.6. Far West 14 in Area
- 1.3.5.2. Virgin Dome 4 in Area
- 1.3.5.3. Sticks and Stones 5 in Area
- 1.3.5.4. West Farthing Wall 11 in Area
- 1.3.5.5. Dozier Dome 15 in Area
-
1.3.5.1.
Medlicott Dome 91 in Area
-
1.3.6.
Fairview Area 62 in Area
- 1.3.6.1. Marmot Dome 7 in Area
- 1.3.6.2. Razor Back 5 in Area
- 1.3.6.3. Whale's Back 11 in Area
-
1.3.6.4.
Fairview Dome 39 in Area
- 1.3.6.4.1. Left Side 14 in Area
- 1.3.6.4.2. West Face 9 in Area
- 1.3.6.4.3. Right Side 16 in Area
-
1.3.7.
Daff Area 182 in Area
- 1.3.7.1. South Whizz Dome 13 in Area
- 1.3.7.2. North Whizz Dome 12 in Area
- 1.3.7.3. Downstream from Hammer Dome 4 in Area
- 1.3.7.4. Hammer Dome (Micro Dome) 19 in Area
- 1.3.7.5. River Wall 5 in Area
- 1.3.7.6. Lava Dome 5 in Area
- 1.3.7.7. Alcatraz Rock 1 in Area
- 1.3.7.8. Dome Perignon 8 in Area
- 1.3.7.9. Dark Side Dome 8 in Area
- 1.3.7.10. Doda Dome 2 in Area
- 1.3.7.11. Micro Dome 3 in Area
- 1.3.7.12. Bearded Clam Cliff 4 in Area
- 1.3.7.13. The Western Front 6 in Area
-
1.3.7.14.
Daff Dome 41 in Area
- 1.3.7.14.1. West Face Left 10 in Area
- 1.3.7.14.2. West Face Right 10 in Area
- 1.3.7.14.3. South Flank 14 in Area
- 1.3.7.14.4. East Face 7 in Area
- 1.3.7.15. West Cottage Dome 6 in Area
- 1.3.7.16. Peanut Gallery 8 in Area
-
1.3.7.17.
East Cottage Dome 21 in Area
- 1.3.7.17.1. West Face 14 in Area
- 1.3.7.17.2. North Walls 7 in Area
-
1.3.7.18.
Canopy World 16 in Area
- 1.3.7.18.1. West Face 6 in Area
- 1.3.7.18.2. Southwest Face 8 in Area
- 1.3.7.18.3. Northeast Face 2 in Area
-
1.3.8.
Cathedral Range Area 12 in Area
-
1.3.8.1.
Cathedral Peak 6 in Area
- 1.3.8.1.1. Eichorn Pinnacle 4 in Area
- 1.3.8.2. Matthes Crest 1 in Area
- 1.3.8.3. Cathedral Range Traverse 1 in Area
- 1.3.8.4. Cathedral Peak Boulders 4 in Area
-
1.3.8.1.
Cathedral Peak 6 in Area
-
1.3.9.
Lembert Area 62 in Area
-
1.3.9.1.
Lembert Dome 54 in Area
- 1.3.9.1.1. Northwest Face 14 in Area
- 1.3.9.1.2. West Face 14 in Area
- 1.3.9.1.3. East Wall 26 in Area
- 1.3.9.2. Dog Dome 1 in Area
- 1.3.9.3. Puppy Dome 7 in Area
-
1.3.9.1.
Lembert Dome 54 in Area
-
1.3.10.
Twin Bridges 55 in Area
-
1.3.10.1.
Whatchacallit Dome 13 in Area
- 1.3.10.1.1. West Face 8 in Area
- 1.3.10.1.2. North Face 5 in Area
-
1.3.10.2.
Pillsbury Dome 8 in Area
- 1.3.10.2.1. North Face 5 in Area
- 1.3.10.2.2. South Face 3 in Area
-
1.3.10.3.
Don't Call Me Dome 18 in Area
- 1.3.10.3.1. South Face 10 in Area
- 1.3.10.3.2. West Face 4 in Area
- 1.3.10.3.3. North Face 4 in Area
- 1.3.10.4. Junior Wall 7 in Area
- 1.3.10.5. The Grandstand 9 in Area
-
1.3.10.1.
Whatchacallit Dome 13 in Area
-
1.3.11.
Tioga Pass 63 in Area
- 1.3.11.1. Transpire Wall 12 in Area
- 1.3.11.2. Mt. Conness 4 in Area
- 1.3.11.3. Private Property 30 in Area
- 1.3.11.4. The Gold Wall 4 in Area
- 1.3.11.5. Wicked Shortie 2 in Area
- 1.3.11.6. Green Bridge 2 in Area
- 1.3.11.7. Spillway Crag 1 in Area
- 1.3.11.8. Speed of Life 5 in Area
- 1.3.11.9. Third Pillar 3 in Area
-
1.3.12.
Mariuolumne Area 78 in Area
-
1.3.12.1.
The Lamb 29 in Area
- 1.3.12.1.1. North Face 10 in Area
- 1.3.12.1.2. West Face 19 in Area
- 1.3.12.2. Drug Dome 11 in Area
-
1.3.12.3.
Mariuolumne Dome 29 in Area
- 1.3.12.3.1. North Wall 7 in Area
- 1.3.12.3.2. West Face 8 in Area
- 1.3.12.3.3. Right Side 9 in Area
- 1.3.12.3.4. Lost Wall 5 in Area
- 1.3.12.4. Island in the Sky 9 in Area
-
1.3.12.1.
The Lamb 29 in Area
- 1.3.13. Pothole Dome 3 in Area
-
1.3.1.
Olmstead Area 50 in Area
-
1.4.
Mt. Conness Area 7 in Area
- 1.4.1. Mt. Conness 6 in Area
- 1.4.2. North Peak 1 in Area
-
1.5.
Southern Yosemite Peaks 6 in Area
- 1.5.1. Mt. Lyell 2 in Area
- 1.5.2. Mt. Maclure 3 in Area
- 1.5.3. Mt. Clark 1 in Area
- 1.5.4. Mount Starr King 0 in Crag
- 1.5.5. Dome Baez 0 in Unknown
-
1.1.
Yosemite Valley 2185 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Yosemite National Park 3,156 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.844115, -119.558999
summary
The Holy Grail of big wall climbing on polished granite.
description
Yosemite National Park is a haven for big wall climbers, providing epic lines on polished granite.
access issues
As of 27/06/22:
-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )
-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.
where to stay
Note: Significant changes to reservation and access to the camp 4 campsite have recently occured.
"For the 2022 seasons from May 20 through September 30, 2022, campsites will be available only by daily lottery, one day in advance, via recreation.gov." [Note: some non-attended slots have on occasion been made available in the early afternoon through the camp 4 kiosk]. See the NPS website for up to date details including limits on the total number of nights available per calendar year.
1.1. Yosemite Valley 2,185 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.737566, -119.602939
|
1.1.1. North Lower Merced Canyon 485 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.707661, -119.714681
|
1.1.1.1. Arch Rock 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.689647, -119.732491
1.1.1.2. The Cookie Cliff 56 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.718208, -119.718783
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Mystic Mint | 5.11b | ||||
2 | Twinkle | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★ Nutter Butter | 5.12b | ||||
4 | ★ Tennessee Strings | 5.12a | ||||
5 | ★ Coffin Nail | A3+ | ||||
6 | Banana Dreams | 5.10a | ||||
7 |
★★★ Hardd
FFA: Henry Barber, Ron Kauk & Steve Wunsch, 1975 | 5.11b | 240ft, 2 | |||
8 |
★★★ Crack-a-Go-Go
FA: Harvey Carter & Pete Pederson, 1967 FFA: Pete Livesy & Ron Fawcett, 1974 | 5.11c | 130ft | |||
9 |
★★★ Outer Limits
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Jim Orey, 1971 | 5.11a | 150ft, 2 | |||
10 |
Satanic Mechanic
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.12c | ||||
11 | ★ Orangutan Arch | 5.11b | ||||
12 |
★★ Elevator Shaft
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Phil Bircheff, 1965 | 5.8 | 230ft, 2 | |||
13 | ★★★ Cookie Monster | 5.12a | 82ft, 7 | |||
14 | ★★★ Cookie Cutter | 5.13b | ||||
15 |
★★ Twilight Zone
FFA: Chuck Pratt & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 5.10d | 100ft | |||
16 | ★★ Chips Ahoy | 5.12c | ||||
17 | ★ Ginger Snap | 5.12b | ||||
18 |
★★ America's Cup
FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Wiegand, 1985 | 5.12b R | ||||
19 | ★★★ Red Zinger | 5.11d | 82ft | |||
20 | ★★ Meat Grinder p1 | 5.9 | 66ft | |||
21 |
★★ Meat Grinder
FA: Royal Robbins & TM Herbert, 1968 | 5.10c | 250ft, 2 | |||
22 | ★★★ Meat Grinder Arete | 5.13b | ||||
23 | ★★ Beverly's Tower | 5.10a | 98ft | |||
24 | ★★ Afershock | 5.11b | ||||
25 | ★★★ Waverly Wafer | 5.11a | 98ft | |||
26 | ★★★ Butterballs | 5.11c | 82ft | |||
27 | ★★★ Wheat Thin | 5.10c | 66ft | |||
28 | ★★ Butterfingers | 5.11a | ||||
29 | ★★ Ladyfingers | 5.11a | ||||
30 | ★ The Cookie - Left Side | 5.10a | ||||
31 | ★ The Cookie - Center Route | 5.9 | ||||
32 |
★★ The Cookie - Right Side
FFA: Royal Robbins & Lloyd Price, 1968 | 5.9 | 240ft, 2 | |||
33 | ★ Vendetta | 5.10b | ||||
34 | Infraction | 5.9 | ||||
35 | ★★ Anathema | 5.10a | ||||
36 | Last in Line | 5.11b | ||||
37 | ★ Jardin's Hand | 5.11a | ||||
38 | ★ The Cleft | 5.9 | ||||
39 | ★★★ Catchy | 5.10d | 98ft | |||
40 | ★★★ Catchy Corner | 5.11a | 150ft | |||
41 | ★★ Pringles | 5.11b | 98ft | |||
42 | Zipperhead | 5.12c | ||||
43 | ★ The Void | 5.11b | ||||
44 | ★ Void Continuation | 5.10d | ||||
45 | ★★ The Stigma (aka Renegade) | 5.13d | 82ft | |||
46 | ★★ The Enigma | 5.10a | ||||
47 | ★★ Ramp of Destruction | 5.10a | ||||
48 | ★★ Abstract Corner | 5.11a | ||||
49 | Escape | 5.8 | ||||
50 | ★★★ Shortcake | 5.11b | ||||
51 | ★★★ The Enema | 5.11b | ||||
52 | ★ Ray's Pin Job | 5.12b | ||||
53 | ★ Something for Nothing | 5.11d | ||||
54 | ★ Gunning for Buddha | 5.11a | ||||
55 | ★ Terminator Left Side | 5.11b | ||||
56 | ★★ Terminator Right Side | 5.10b |
1.1.1.3. Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area 47 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.725038, -119.713425
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pat Pinnacle | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Jack Pinnacle Right Side | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Jack Pinnacle Left Side | 5.7 | ||||
4 | Domehead | 5.10b | ||||
5 | Scorpion Man | 5.10d | ||||
6 | ★ Stinger | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★ Stand and Quiver | 5.11a | ||||
8 | ★ Hat Pin | 5.11a | ||||
9 | The Knife | 5.11b | ||||
10 | ★ Flailing Dog | 5.11a | ||||
11 | Gilligan's Chicken | 5.7 | ||||
12 | ★ Chicken Fever | 5.10b | ||||
13 | ★★ Sherrie's Crack | 5.10c | 80ft | |||
14 | ★ Nurdle | 5.8 | 180ft | |||
15 | ★★ The Super Slacker Highway | 5.10b | 600ft, 8, 16 | |||
16 |
★★ Knob Job
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 5.10b | 200ft, 2 | |||
17 | ★ G-Man | 5.11b | ||||
18 |
★★ Book 'em, Dano
This is not Book'em Dano this is a continuation of G-man and was done in one pitch by Dimitri in 1988 Book'em Dano was also done by Dimitri but goes out to the right across big knobs FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.10d | ||||
19 | ★ Trough of Justice | 5.10b | 110ft | |||
20 |
★★ Knuckleheads
FA: Dan & Sue McDevitt, 1991 | 5.10b | 90ft | |||
21 | People's Court | 5.10d | ||||
22 | ★★ Desperado | 5.11d | ||||
23 | ★★ Desperate Straights | 5.10a | 90ft | |||
24 | ★ Cat's Squirrel | 5.12a | ||||
25 | ★ Cat's Squirrel Continuation | 5.12b | ||||
26 | Nine Lives | 5.11b | ||||
27 | Black Heads | 5.11b | ||||
28 |
★★★ Skinheads
Climb the arete with nicely spaced bolts. Pause to marvel at the shape of the hanger on the third bolt, just below the crux moves. | 5.10d | 110ft | |||
29 | ★★ Underclingon | 5.12a | ||||
30 | ★★ The Tube | 5.11a | 82ft | |||
31 | Guardian Angel | 5.11b | ||||
32 | Gay Bob's | 5.10b | ||||
33 | Tricky Fingers | 5.10c | ||||
34 | Brainbucket | 5.10d | ||||
35 | Babble On | 5.10a | 80ft, 1 | |||
36 | ★ Showtime | 5.11c | ||||
37 | ★★ Rocky Horror Show | 5.12a | ||||
38 | Wart Hog | 5.8 | ||||
39 | ★ My-Toe-Sis | 5.11b | ||||
40 | Eraser Flake | 5.11a | ||||
41 | Sunblast | 5.13a A2+ | ||||
42 | The Wedge | 5.11b | ||||
43 | ★★ Polymastia | 5.10d | ||||
44 | ★ Suds | 5.9 | 120ft | |||
45 |
★★ Kiddie Corner
Not a kiddie climb at all so why this name? Bolted line, slabby down low with a nice finger crack and definite crux at the corner up high. | 5.10a | 110ft, 7 | |||
46 |
★★ Boneheads
FA: Andersons & Sue McDevitt | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
47 | ★ Makayla's Climb | 5.9 | 160ft |
1.1.1.4. Knob Hill 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.728475, -119.710544
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Pot Belly LHV
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
2 |
★ Pot Belly
FA: Bill Griffin & Bruce Price, 1973 | 5.7 | 60ft | |||
3 | ★ Movin' to Montana | 5.8 | ||||
4 |
★★ Just For Starters
FA: Anderson Family | 5.10a | 180ft, 7 | |||
5 | ★★ Sloth Wall | 5.7 | 180ft | |||
6 | ★★ Anti-Ego Crack | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Sloppy Seconds | 5.5 | ||||
8 |
★ Turkey Pie (aka Chicken Pie)
FA: Jerry Anderson, 1973 | 5.7 | 100ft | |||
9 | Knob Hill Rapist | 5.8 | ||||
10 | Deception Gully | 5.9 |
1.1.1.5. Reed's Pinnacle Area 52 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.724948, -119.699266
description
A short cliff right beside the road with some excellent crack climbing.
approach
Jump on 120 heading out of Yosemite Village. Park in the turnoff just past the very first tunnel, you may have to go down the road a bit to turn around. Look for the post with a picture of a carabena on it and make the arduous 3 minute approach. The most prominent climb on the wall that you can't miss is 'Lunatic Fringe'.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Danger Will Robinson | 5.10d | ||||||
2 | Anal Tongue Darts | 5.10c | ||||||
3 | ★ Olga's Trick | 5.10d | ||||||
4 | Crazy Train | 5.10c | ||||||
5 | Isotope | 5.11d | ||||||
6 | ★ Chingando | 5.10a | ||||||
7 | ★ The Iota | 5.5 | ||||||
8 | ★ The Tooth | 5.10a | ||||||
9 | ★ Crossroads | 5.13a | ||||||
10 | ★ Phantom | 5.13a | ||||||
11 | Micron | 5.11b | ||||||
12 | The Remnant Left Side | 5.10b | ||||||
13 | The Remnant Center Route | 5.12a | ||||||
14 | The Remnant Right Side | 5.7 | ||||||
15 | Reed's Pinnacle Left Side | 5.10a | ||||||
16 | Goosebumps | 5.10c | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Reed's Direct
FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964 | 5.9 | 240ft, 3 | |||||
18 |
★★ Reed's Regular Route
FA: Herb Swedlund & Wally Reed, 1957 | 5.9 | 300ft, 4 | |||||
19 | Blaxing Buckets | 5.9 | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bong's Away Left | 5.8 | ||||||
21 | Bong's Away Center | 5.10a | ||||||
22 | Bong's Away Right | 5.9 | ||||||
23 | ★ Magical Mystery Tour | 5.10a | ||||||
24 | Duck and Cover | 5.11 | ||||||
25 | ★ Old Five Ten | 5.10d | ||||||
26 | Midnight Rampest | 5.10a | ||||||
27 |
★★★ Lunatic Fringe
Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb. | 5.10c | 140ft | |||||
28 | Beyond the Fringe | 5.10c | ||||||
29 | ★ Flatus | 5.9 | ||||||
30 | ★ The Rorp | 5.7 | ||||||
31 | ★ Tooth or Consequence | 5.11b | ||||||
32 | ★★★ Stone Groove | 5.10b | 59ft | |||||
33 |
★★ Stone Fist
The off-width and hand crack just to the right of Stone Groove. DBB on top. | 5.9 | 66ft | |||||
34 | ★ Independent Route | 5.10b | ||||||
35 | The Gray Bullet | 5.8 | ||||||
36 | ★★ Rocket in my Pocket | 5.11c | ||||||
37 | ★ Center Route | 5.10d | ||||||
38 | ★ Center Route (pitch 1) | 5.7 | ||||||
39 | ★★★ Reed's Pinnacle Direct | 5.10a | 310ft, 4 | |||||
40 | ★★ Steppin' Out | 5.10d | ||||||
41 | Cosmic Ray | 5.11a | ||||||
42 |
★★ Ejesta
The first pitch is ok with some finger cracks. The top pitches is the money with an amazing hand crack in a dihedral leading up to an easy o/w section - bring a C4 #4 to lower the spice, but you can do without. An easy albeit airy traverse is your finish. | 5.8 | 60ft | |||||
43 | Porter's Pout | 5.10a | ||||||
44 | Sylvester's Meao | 5.11a | ||||||
45 | ★★ Regular Route | 5.9 | 490ft | |||||
46 | ★ Fasten your Seat Belte | 5.10b | ||||||
47 | ★ Free Ride | 5.10a | ||||||
48 | ★ Magic Carpet | 5.11d | ||||||
49 | ★ Cro-Magnon Capers | 5.11b | ||||||
50 | Nothing Good Ever Lasts | 5.10d | ||||||
51 | ★ Spring Fever | 5.11b | ||||||
52 | ★★★ Reeds Regular Route (p1+p2) | 5.9 | 190ft | |||||
|
1.1.1.6. Five and Dime Cliff 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.722884, -119.701210
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Nickel Bag | 5.11d | ||||
2 |
★ Bijou
Warning Fixed Gear: Loose bolt hangers FA: Heather Baer & Jeff Schoen, 1992 | 5.10c | 60ft, 6 | |||
3 | ★★ Mockery | 5.8 | 9 | |||
4 | Chump Change | 5.12a | ||||
5 |
★★ Keystone Corner
FA: Don Reid & Jay Fiske, 1975 | 5.8 | 80ft | |||
6 |
★ Copper Penny
FA: Charlie Porter et al, 1971 | 5.10a X | 90ft | |||
7 |
★★ Five and Dime
FA: Barry Bates et al, 1971 | 5.10d | 90ft | |||
8 | Whack and Dangle | 5.11a | ||||
9 | Penny Ante | 5.11 | ||||
10 | ★★ Ride the Lightning | 5.12a | ||||
11 | ★★ The Anti-Christ | 5.11d | ||||
12 | The Reception | 5.10a | ||||
13 | ★★ Holey Gully | 5.8 | 70ft | |||
14 | ★★ Markery | 5.10b | 75ft, 9 | |||
15 | Inner Reaches | 5.7 | ||||
16 | Hawleywood | 5.9 | 79ft, 8 | |||
17 | Crack 'n Face | 5.10b |
1.1.1.7. Highway Star Bluff 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.721333, -119.675436
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Highway Star (10b variation start) | 5.10b | 59ft | |||||
2 | ★★ Highway Star | 5.10a | 59ft |
1.1.1.8. Parkline Area 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.680637, -119.748535
1.1.1.8.1. Parkline Slab 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.1.1.8.2. Narrow Escape Cliff 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.1.9. Short Circuit Boulder 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ 666 | 5.12b | ||||
2 | ★★★ Short Circuit | 5.11d |
1.1.1.10. Dog Dik Cliff 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Short but Thick | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Opposition | 5.11a | ||||
3 | ★★ Happy Days | 5.11d | ||||
4 | ★ Pink Pussycat | A1 | ||||
5 | Fist Puppet | 5.11a |
1.1.1.11. Finger Lickin' Cliff 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Finger Lickin' | 5.10d | ||||
2 | Fun Flake | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Pandora's Box | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★ Petty Larceny | 5.11b | ||||
5 | ★ Snatch Power | 5.10c | ||||
6 | ★ Jaw Bone | 5.10a | ||||
7 | ★★★ Pinky Paralysis | 5.11c | ||||
8 | Health Insurance | 5.10a | ||||
9 | ★ High Profile | 5.11a | ||||
10 | R and R | 5.10a | ||||
11 | No Exit | 5.10d |
1.1.1.12. Roadside Attraction Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ River Boulder | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★★ Roadside Attraction | 5.12a | ||||
3 | Roadside Infraction | 5.12b | ||||
4 | Dale's Pin Jon | 5.13 | ||||
5 | ★ Van Belle O Drome | 5.13c | ||||
6 | ★ Van Belle Syndrome | 5.13 | ||||
7 | Back to the Future | 5.12b |
1.1.1.13. Kat Pinnacle 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Northwest Corner | 5.7 A2 | ||||
2 | Katchup | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★ Southwest Corner | 5.7 A3+ | ||||
4 | Compass | 5.10c | ||||
5 | A la Moana | 5.11a |
1.1.1.14. Bobcat Buttress 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Cat Flight | 5.10b | ||||
2 | ★ Tiger by the Tail | 5.12b | ||||
3 | ★ Don't Give Up the Ship | 5.12a | ||||
4 | Scratching Post | 5.10b | ||||
5 | Pussy Licked | 5.11a | ||||
6 | ★ Pussy Whipped | 5.11c |
1.1.1.15. Boulder Cracks 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Index Eliminator | 5.12a | ||||
2 | Dynamite Crack | 5.10 |
1.1.1.16. Oreo Cliff 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Animal Crackers | 5.11c | ||||
2 | Original Chips Ahoy | 5.10c | ||||
3 | Ninja Flake | 5.11 | ||||
4 | Fig Neutron | 5.11b | ||||
5 | Spuds McKenzie | 5.10d | ||||
6 | What's your Fantasy | 5.11b | ||||
7 | Snap, Crackle, and Pop | 5.10c |
1.1.1.17. Above The Cookie 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Joe's Garage | 5.11c | ||||
2 | ★★ Gait of Power | 5.11d | ||||
3 | ★ Tunnel Vision | 5.12d | ||||
4 |
★ Romantic Tension
FA: Dimitri Barton-Jonny Woodward | 5.12d | ||||
5 |
★ Klingon
FA: Dimitri Barton-Jonny Woodward | 5.11c | ||||
6 | Miramonte | 5.10c | ||||
7 | ★ Uncertain Ending | 5.10b | ||||
8 | ★ Obscure Destiny | 5.11a | ||||
9 | ★ Skunk Crack | 5.11b A1 | ||||
10 |
★★★ Tales of Power
Sent by Louise Shepherd in 1981 or 1983, one of the first Aussie female ascents at this grade. FA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | 5.12b | ||||
11 |
★★★ Separate Reality
An epic roof climb that has been soloed by many pros. FA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | 5.12a | 49ft | |||
12 | Guilotine | 5.11d |
1.1.1.18. Wildcat Falls Area 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.1.1.18.1. Through Bein' Cool 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.1.18.2. Knobby Wall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.1.1.19. Cascade Falls 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.722373, -119.713007
1.1.1.19.1. Left Side 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.1.1.19.2. Upper 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
1.1.1.19.3. Right Side 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.1.20. This and That Cliff 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Meat Puppet | 5.10 | ||||
2 | Weird Scenes in the Gold Mine | 5.10a | ||||
3 | King Cobra | 5.10a | ||||
4 | Psuedo Desperation | 5.7 | ||||
5 | ★ Agent Orange | 5.10d | ||||
6 | Blame it on 800 | |||||
7 | ★ Gotham City | 5.11d | ||||
8 | ★★ Robin | 5.12c | ||||
9 | Stubs | 5.12c | ||||
10 | Title Fight | 5.13 | ||||
11 | Master Lock | 5.12 | ||||
12 | ★★ Tips | 5.12c | ||||
13 | Back in the Saddle | 5.11a | ||||
14 | Whim | 5.9 | ||||
15 | Said and Done | 5.9 | ||||
16 | ★ Grateful Pinheads | 5.11a | ||||
17 | ★ Slamming Left | 5.11b | ||||
18 | Slamming Right | 5.10d | ||||
19 | Stumped Ray | 5.11 | ||||
20 | ★ This and That | 5.10a | ||||
21 | Slap that Bitch | 5.10d | ||||
22 | Summary Judgment | 5.11a | ||||
23 | ★ Humdinger | 5.10d | ||||
24 | Humdinger Continuation | 5.11b | ||||
25 | Pink Banana | 5.10d A1 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Cramming | 5.10d | 82ft | |||
27 | ★★★ Scram | 5.12b | ||||
28 | Secret Agent | 5.10c | ||||
29 | Cleaver | 5.11d |
1.1.1.21. Generator Station 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.722044, -119.703568
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Conductor Crack | 5.10d | 49ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★★ Generator Crack
A classic Yosemite wide crack climb. A slightly overhung crack starts with stacks and finishes with an exciting squeeze chimney. A three bolt anchor is accessible by walking around the back side of the Generator Crack boulder. | 5.10c | 60ft | |||||
3 | The Blade | 5.12 | ||||||
4 | The Gauntlet | 5.11c |
1.1.1.22. New Diversions Cliff 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Falcon | 5.10b | ||||
2 | ★ Rock Man | 5.11d | ||||
3 | Highlander | 5.12c | ||||
4 | Chicken Pox | 5.8 | ||||
5 | ★★ New Deviations | 5.9 | 120ft | |||
6 | ★★★ New Diversions | {AU} YDS:5.10a | 110ft | |||
7 | ★★ Burst of Brilliance | 5.11b | ||||
8 | Wasp | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Strangers in the Night | 5.10b | ||||
10 | Electric Gully | 5.7 | ||||
11 | ★ Radical Chic | 5.9 | ||||
12 | ★★★ Chicken Pie | 5.9 | 150ft | |||
13 | Catch a Wave | 5.11d | ||||
14 | Jugs | 5.8 | ||||
15 | Spring Chicken | 5.11a | ||||
16 | ★ Shake, Rattle, and Drop | 5.10b | ||||
17 | Chimney for Two | 5.6 | ||||
18 | Holidays | 5.8 | ||||
19 | Tail End | 5.6 |
1.1.1.23. Trix Area 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wrong Address | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★ Arlington Heights | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Hampton Estates | 5.9 | ||||
4 | Trix | 5.11a |
1.1.1.24. Owl Roof Area 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pimper's Paradise | 5.11d | ||||
2 |
White Owl
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.11d | ||||
3 | Loose Tooth City | 5.10a | ||||
4 | Block Horror Picture Show | 5.9 | ||||
5 | Teenage Warning | 5.10d | ||||
6 | Dromedary Direct | 5.10c | ||||
7 | Dromedary | 5.8 | ||||
8 | The Shaft | 5.10d | ||||
9 | ★ The Owl Bypass | 5.9 | ||||
10 | Stroke (My Erect Ear Tufts) | 5.10c | ||||
11 | Owl Roof | 5.12c | ||||
12 | ★ Floating Lama | 5.11c A1 | ||||
13 | ★ Mirage | 5.12c | ||||
14 | Color Purple | 5.11b | ||||
15 | Pygmy Sex Circus | 5.10b | ||||
16 |
Wicked Jones Crusher
FA: Dimitri Barton-Roy McClenahan | 5.10b | ||||
17 | Walrus | 5.9 | ||||
18 | Traffic Jam | 5.9 |
1.1.1.25. Goldrush Area 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | William's Climb | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Mongolian Clusterfuck | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★ Siberian Swarm Screw | 5.10a | ||||
4 | Gang Bang | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Hand Job | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Fun | 5.9 | ||||
7 | Polymorphous Perverse | 5.10c | ||||
8 | Shit on a Shingle | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Mainliner | 5.10c | ||||
10 | Rest for the Wicked | 5.11c | ||||
11 | ★ Goldrush | 5.11b |
1.1.1.26. Fantasy Island 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Jupiter | 5.12d | ||||
2 | ★★ Fantasy Island | 5.13b | ||||
3 | Project 1 | |||||
4 | Project 2 |
1.1.1.27. The Mojo Tooth 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.1.27.1. Left 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.1.1.27.2. Right 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.1.1.28. Last Resort Cliff 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Turning Point | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Side Kick | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Tiger's Paw | 5.10a A1 | ||||
4 | Plumkin | 5.10a | ||||
5 | ★ Moon Age Daydream | 5.11a | ||||
6 | The Steal | 5.10a | ||||
7 | Sex, Drugs and Violence | 5.10a | ||||
8 | PMS | 5.11a | ||||
9 | ★ B & B | 5.10a | ||||
10 | No Falls Wall | 5.10b | ||||
11 | Black Sunday | 5.10a | ||||
12 | Shattered | 5.10d | ||||
13 | ★ Ready or Not | 5.11a | ||||
14 | Slumgullion | 5.10 | ||||
15 | Neutron Escape | 5.10a | ||||
16 | Radioactive | 5.11a | ||||
17 | ★ Atomic Finger Crack | 5.12b |
1.1.1.29. Audubon Buttress 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Wild Turkey | 5.10c | ||||
2 | The Dove | 5.8 | ||||
3 | Birds of a Feather | 5.7 | ||||
4 | ★ Eagle Feather | 5.10c | ||||
5 | Duncan Imperial | 5.11a |
1.1.2. South Lower Merced Canyon 125 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.715160, -119.702239
1.1.2.1. Turtleback Dome 85 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.715947, -119.704787
|
1.1.2.1.1. Super Nova Area 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.2.1.2. The Rostrum 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.718790, -119.708026
1.1.2.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
1.1.2.1.4. Elephant Rock 41 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
1.1.2.1.5. Overview 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.2.2. Discovery View 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Overdrive | 5.11a |
1.1.2.3. Wawona Tunnel, Eastern Vent 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Pump Dummy | 5.11d |
1.1.2.4. Flagman Buttress 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Scrub Scouts | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Flagman | 5.11a |
1.1.2.5. Pulpit Rock 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.1.2.5.1. Southeast Face 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.1.2.5.2. Northwest Face 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.2.5.3. High Pressure Cliff 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.2.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ A Dog's Roof | 5.12b | ||||
2 | ★ A Bit of OK | 5.12b | ||||
3 | Walk On By | 5.10a | ||||
4 | Your Pizza Is Ready | 5.9 | ||||
5 | ★ Eat at Degnan's | 5.9 | ||||
6 | Pohono The Barbarian | 5.10a | ||||
7 | Landshark | 5.12a | ||||
8 | Dancin' Days | 5.11c |
1.1.2.7. Wawona Tunnel, West 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | I Don't Know | 5.10a | ||||
2 | I Don't Remember | 5.9 |
1.1.2.8. Cream Area 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Cream | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Jam Session | 5.10b | ||||
3 | Cartwheel | 5.10a | ||||
4 | Monkey Do | 5.10c | ||||
5 | ★★★ Energy Crisis | 5.11d | ||||
6 | Shiver-Me-Timbers | 5.8 |
1.1.2.9. The Blowhole 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Thar She Blows | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★★ Honk If Your Horny | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★ Wind Tunnel | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★ The Fledgling | 5.10a | ||||
5 | ★ Fire in the Hole | 5.10b | ||||
6 | ★★ Variation | 5.10a |
1.1.3. Cathedral Rocks 129 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.715181, -119.635771
1.1.3.1. Phantom Pinnacle 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Left Side | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Outside Face | 5.10d |
1.1.3.2. Higher Cathedral Spire 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.714269, -119.635698
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Northwest Face | 5.8 A3 V | ||||
2 | Higher Aspirations | 5.8 A3 V | ||||
3 | ★★★ Regular (Southwest Face) Route | 5.9 | 430ft | |||
4 | ★ Steck Route | 5.9 A1 | ||||
5 | Southeast Face | 5.10d | ||||
6 | ★ East Corner | 5.10a | ||||
7 |
Blue Collar
The route is on the Northwest Face of the Higher Cathedral Spire and it’s first pitches (mainly) follow the original Grade IV/A4 route climbed by legends Royal Robins and Tom Frost.
FFA: Kevin Jorgeson & Ryan Sheridan, 21 Oct 2018 | 5.13d | 12 |
1.1.3.3. Lower Cathedral Spire 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Regular Route | 5.9 | 460ft | |||
2 | ★ South by Southwest | 5.11a |
1.1.3.4. Higher Cathedral Rock 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Syllable | 5.8 | ||||
2 | ★ The Sequel | 5.8 | ||||
3 | ★ Blind Man's Bluff | 5.9 | ||||
4 | ★ Blind Alley | 5.9 | ||||
5 | ★★ The Braille Book | {AU} YDS:5.8 | 610ft | |||
6 | ★★★ Perfect Vision | 5.11c | ||||
7 | ★ Book of Job | 5.10b | ||||
8 | ★ Malice Aforethought | 5.11a | ||||
9 | East Face Route | 5.10 A4 V | ||||
10 | Learning to Crawl | 5.9 A3+ V | ||||
11 | ★★ Mary's Tears | 5.11b | ||||
12 | ★★★ Northeast Buttress | {AU} YDS:5.9 | 920ft | |||
13 | ★★ Power Point | 5.11c | ||||
14 | ★★★ The Crucifix | 5.12b | ||||
15 | North Face | 5.9 A3 V | ||||
16 | ★★ The Affliction | 5.11d A0 V |
1.1.3.5. Middle Cathedral Rock 57 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.717327, -119.636097
1.1.3.5.1. Cathedral Chimney 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.3.5.2. East Buttress 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
1.1.3.5.3. Northeast Face 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
1.1.3.5.4. North Buttress 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
1.1.3.5.5. North Face Base, Left 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.3.5.6. North Face Apron 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.3.5.7. North Face 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alpine climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
1.1.3.6. Lower Cathedral Rock 45 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.718370, -119.644424
1.1.3.6.1. North Face 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
1.1.3.6.2. North Buttress 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
1.1.3.6.3. Lower Cathedral West 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.3.6.4. Bridalveil Falls Area 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.1.3.6.5. Unknown 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.4. El Capitan 253 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.733722, -119.630306
description
|
1.1.4.1. West Face 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Salami Ledge | 5.10 IV | ||||
2 |
★★★ West Face
FA: TM Herbert & Royal Robbins, 1967 FFA: Ray Jardine & Bill Price, 1979 | {AU} YDS:5.11c COM:V | 1800ft, 20 | |||
3 | Mr Midwest | 5.10 A3+ VI | ||||
4 | Realm of the Flying Monkeys | 5.10a A3 VI | ||||
5 | Mirage | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
6 |
★★★ Lurking Fear
FA: Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff & Jim Pettigrew, 1976 FFA: Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden, 2006 | 5.7 C2 VI | 2000ft, 19 |
1.1.4.2. Southwest Face 36 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.732919, -119.640251
approach
Drive to the "El Cap" parking area where the Bear Bins are. Walk towards the face of "El Cap" and pick up the obvious climbers trail. A short 10 mins later and you will be walking directly up to the start of "The Nose", the first climb you come too.
descent notes
Do not underestimate the difficulty of the descent from the top of El Capitan, prepare appropriately with water and food. The Yosemite Falls Trail took me 10 hours (approx 9 miles) to complete as a big wall party with a single haul bag, portaledge and rack and 2 ropes. It was gruelling. I haven't tried the Eastern Ledges Descent but highly recommend it, it can't be worst than the Yosemite Falls Trail.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lost World | 5.10 A3+ VI | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | Squeeze Play | 5.10 A3+ VI | ||||||
3 | Hole World | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||||
4 | West Buttress | 5.9 A3 VI | 2000ft, 20 | |||||
5 | For Your Eyes Only (aka Octopussy) | 5.9 A3 VI | ||||||
6 | Never Never Land | 5.7 A3 VI | 2700ft, 20 | |||||
7 | Aquarian Wall | 5.7 A3 VI | 2800ft, 20 | |||||
8 | Winds of Change | 5.10 A5 VI | ||||||
9 | Wings of Steel | 5.10+ A4 VI | ||||||
10 | ★★ Horse Chute | 5.7 A3 VI | 2000ft, 20 | |||||
11 | Horse Play | 5.9 A3 VI | ||||||
12 | ★★ Dihedral Wall | 5.8 A3 VI | 2400ft, 26 | |||||
13 | ★★ Cosmos | 5.7 A4 VI | 2400ft, 24 | |||||
14 | ★★ Excalibur | 5.8 A3 VI | 2700ft, 28 | |||||
15 | Bermuda Dunes | 5.11c A4+ VI | ||||||
16 | The Heart Route | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||||
17 | Pacemaker | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||||
18 | ★★ Son of Heart (aka Heart Woute) | 5.8 A3+ VI | 2700ft, 29 | |||||
19 | Sunkist | 5.8 A3 VI | 2900ft, 31 | |||||
20 | Jolly Roger | 5.10 A5 VI | ||||||
21 |
★ Magic Mushroom
FA: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton, 1972 | 5.7 A3 VI | 2900ft, 31 | |||||
22 |
Magic Mushroom (free)
The route shares the first 5 pitches of Muir Wall, then continues straight up to the Mammoth Ledges. After the Gray Ledge, it shares 3 pitches with El Corazon and rejoins the original aid line. The final 4 pitches follow the old aid route Jolly Roger. The route to the left of The Nose was first ascended with the use of aid in 1972 by Hugh Burton and Steve Sutton and freed in June 2008 by Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong. with difficulties up to VI 5.14a / 8b+. A month later, drawing on a moment of utter inspiration, Caldwell then led all pitches free in a sub 24 hour push. FFA: Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong, 2012 | 5.14a | 2900ft, 30 | |||||
23 | ★★★ The Shield | 5.9 A3+ VI | 2900ft, 30 | |||||
24 | Dorn Direct | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||||
25 | ★★ Muir Wall | 5.9 A2 VI | 3600ft, 33 | |||||
26 |
★★★ Muir Wall (All Clean)
The Muir Wall is one of El Cap's greatest natural lines, second only to the Salathé. It boasts large clean corners from the ground to summit with moderate yet sustained climbing. This route is substantially more involved than the Nose or Salathé but technically easier than the Shield or Zodiac. | 5.9 C4 VI | 3300ft, 33 | |||||
27 |
PreMuir
A variation of 'Muir Wall'. It takes a line up the centre of El Cap following parts of the 'Muir Wall', 'The Shaft' and 'The Shield', but also includes some 5.13 climbing of its own. FA: Rob Miller & Justen Sjong, 2007 | 5.13c/d | 33 | |||||
28 |
★★★ Freerider
The route follows complex crack systems up the southwest face of El Capitan. Essentially it is the Salathe wall with a few variations used (pioneered by Alex Huber) to avoid the numerous 5.13 crux pitches first freed by Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in the mid 80's. The first 10 pitches of this route are often independently completed as a separate route and is known as Freeblast 5.11. The Free Rider technically climbs the 5.13a boulder problem pitch but it is also an option to do the Salathe’s Teflon Corner at 5.12d. *June 3, 2017 - First free solo ascent on El Capitan, and world's hardest multi-pitch free solo by Alex Honnold. Time: 3 hours, 56 minutes
| 5.13a VI | 2900ft, 32 | |||||
29 |
★★★ Salathé Wall / Salathé
FA: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost & Chuck Pratt, 1961 FFA: Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, 1988 | 5.9 C2 VI | 2900ft, 35 | |||||
30 | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 5.8 C2 VI | 2900ft, 30 | |||||
31 | Grape Race | 5.9 A2 VI | 1400ft, 12 | |||||
32 |
Ephemeron
Parallels 'The Nose' FA: Brandon Adams & Kristoffer Wickstrom, 28 Apr 2018 | 5.10 A4 VI | 22, 35 | |||||
33 |
★★★ The Nose
On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style. The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick. Speed Records
FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958 FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993 | 5.9 C2 VI | 3400ft, 31 | |||||
34 | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 5.11b | 1300ft | |||||
35 |
Golden Gate
https://huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Yosemite-Golden-Gate.pdf FFA: Alexander Huber & Thomas Huber, 2000 FA: Alexander Huber, 2000 | 5.13a | 3300ft, 41 | |||||
36 |
★★★ El Corazón
'El Corazón' is a combination of 'Salathé Wall', Albatross, 'Son of Heart' and 'Heart Route' plus some new established variations to link the freeable sections of the existing routes. Besides placing some new bolts on belay stations, no single bolt was placed for the new route. Pitons and Bird Beaks, which were placed during the first ascent for the necessary new variations, were left as protection for the free climb. FA: Alexander Huber & Max Reichel, 2001 FFA: Alexander Huber, 2001 | 5.13b | 3300ft, 35 |
1.1.4.3. Southeast Face 41 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.731874, -119.640113
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ The Real Nose | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||||
2 | Genesis | 5.11b A4+ VI | ||||||
3 | ★★ New Dawn | 5.8 A2 VI | 2700ft, 28 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Mescalito
FA: Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton, Steve Sutton & Chris Nelson, 1973 | 5.7 A3 VI | 2700ft, 26 | |||||
5 | Hockey Night in Canada | 5.10 A3 VI | ||||||
6 | ★★ Wall of the Early Morning Light | 5.9 A3 VI | 2700ft, 27 | |||||
7 |
★★★ The Dawn Wall / Free Dawn Wall
Pitch 5 : Anchorage Ledge Pitch 14 : protected by fixed gear Pitch 15 : The Traverse Pitch 16 : The Dyno Pitch 22 : Wino Tower Pitch 28 : Ship's Bow FFA: Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson, 14 Jan 2015 | 5.14d | 3000ft, 32, 35 | |||||
8 | Space | 5.10 A4+ VI | ||||||
9 | ★★★ South Seas | 5.8 A4 VI | 2500ft, 24 | |||||
10 | ★★★ Pacific Ocean Wall | 5.9 A3 VI | 2500ft, 27 | |||||
11 | ★★ Sea of Dreams | 5.9 A4 VI | 2400ft, 27 | |||||
12 |
★★★ North America Wall
One of the most historic routes on 'El Capitan'. FA: Golden Age, Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt & Royal Robbins, 1964 | 5.8 A2 VI | 2400ft, 27 | |||||
13 |
Pineapple Express
A free variation to 'North America Wall' that links with 'El Niño' and avoids the rappel completely. FFA: Sonnie Trotter & Tommy Caldwell, 19 Nov 2018 | 5.13c | 2400ft | |||||
14 | ★★ Wyoming Sheep Ranch | 5.8 A4 VI | 2200ft, 23 | |||||
15 | Heartland | 5.10 A4+ VI | ||||||
16 |
El Niño
Free variation of 'North America Wall' with one short rappel down a completely black eight-meter blank section. FFA: Thomas Huber & Alexander Huber, 1994 | 5.13c | 30 | |||||
17 | New Jersey Turnpike | 5.10 A4+ VI | ||||||
18 | ★★ Atlantic Ocean Wall | 5.9 A4 VI | 2000ft, 25 | |||||
19 | ★★★ Iron Hawk | 5.9 A4 VI | 2000ft, 26 | |||||
20 | ★★ Native Son | 5.9 A4 VI | 1900ft, 17 | |||||
21 | Scorched Earth | 5.7 A4 VI | 1800ft, 15 | |||||
22 | ★★ Aurora | 5.7 A4 VI | 2000ft, 16 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Tangerine Trip
FA: Charlie Porter & John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973 | {AU} YDS:5.9 AID:A3+ NCCS:VI | 2000ft, 17 | |||||
24 | ★★ Lost in America | 5.9 A4 VI | 2000ft, 16 | |||||
25 | ★★ Zenyatta Mondatta | 5.7 A4 VI | 1800ft, 16 | |||||
26 | ★★★ The Shortest Straw | {AU} YDS:5.7 AID:A4 COM:VI | 1800ft, 16 | |||||
27 |
★★★ Zodiac
FA: Charlie Porter | 5.7 A2 VI | 1800ft, 16 | |||||
28 | Surgeon General | 5.9 A5 VI | ||||||
29 | ★★ Lunar Eclipse | 5.7 A4 VI | 1800ft, 18 | |||||
30 | Born Under a Bad Sign | 5.10 A5 VI | ||||||
31 | Plastic Surgery Disaster | 5.8 A5 VI | ||||||
32 | Bad Seed | 5.9 A4+ VI | ||||||
33 | Bad to the Bone | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||||
34 | ★★ Eagle's Way | 5.8 A3 VI | 1800ft, 19 | |||||
35 | On the Waterfront | 5.9 A5 VI | ||||||
36 | High Plains Dripper | 5.11 A5 VI | ||||||
37 | Pressure Cooker | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||||
38 | Get Whacked | 5.10 A5 VI | ||||||
39 | Waterfall Route | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||||
40 | Chinese Water Torture | 5.11 A4 VI | ||||||
41 |
★★★ East Buttress
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark. After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road FA: Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Bill Long & Willi Unsoeld, 1953 | 5.10b | 1500ft |
1.1.4.4. West Buttress Base Area 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ West Buttress | 5.10a | 300ft, 2 | |||
2 | ★ Peter Pan | 5.9 | 300ft, 3 | |||
3 | Cuthulu | 5.10d | ||||
4 | ★ Indubious Battle | 5.11a | ||||
5 | ★ Peter Left | 5.10c | ||||
6 | Tinkerbell Left | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Tinkerbell Right | 5.9 | ||||
8 | Lost Boys | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Wendy | 5.9 | ||||
10 | Smee's Come-on | 5.11a | ||||
11 | Captain Hook Left | 5.7 | 60ft | |||
12 | Captain Hook Right | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
13 | ★ Captain Crunch | 5.11b |
1.1.4.5. Delectable Pinnacle 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Left Side | 5.3 | ||||
2 | ★ Center Route | 5.11c | ||||
3 | Cosmic Charley | 5.11b | ||||
4 | Meteorite | 5.12b | ||||
5 | ★ Aid Route | A3 | ||||
6 | Right Side | 5.7 |
1.1.4.6. Southwest Base Area 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.733929, -119.641350
approach
Walk to the base of 'The Nose' of El Capitan. The first climb you will come to along the base of the cliff is 'Moby Dick'. 'Pine Line' is accesssed by traversing along the ledge to the right of 'Moby Dick'. To get to 'La Escuela', etc, keep heading up the scree covered slopes at the base of the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ La Escuela
Pro to 2.5". FA: Yvon Chouinard & TM Herbert, 1962 FFA: Steve Wuncsh & Mark Chapman, 1973 | 5.11b | 220ft, 3 | |||||
2 |
★★ Mr. Dash
Alternate P3 finish for La Escuela named after the late Micah Dash. Pro to 3" with extra 2" cams. FFA: James Selvidge & Melissa Michelitsch, 2010 | 5.10a | 60ft | |||||
3 |
La Escuela Direct
FA: Eric Beck & Steve Williams, 1969 | A4 | ||||||
4 |
★★ The Slack, Left
Pro to 6", 2 ea. 2"-5". FA: Chuck Pratt & Royal Robbins, 1965 FFA: Pat Ament & Larry Dalke, 1967 | 5.10b | 350ft, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ The Slack, Center
Pro to 6". P2 and P3 often linked. FA: Charlie Raymond & Wally Reed, 1958 FFA: Pat Ament & Larry Dalke, 1967 | 5.10d | 400ft, 4 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Sacherer Cracker
Fabulous steep jam crack from narrow hand to offwidth. Pro to 6" with doubles to 3". Two rope rappel. FFA: Frank Sacherer & Mike Sherrick, 1964 | 5.10a | 150ft | |||||
7 |
★★★ The Mark of Art
Pro to 3", 2-3 ea. 0.75"-1.5". FFA: Mark Chapman & Art Higbee, 1974 | 5.10d | 180ft | |||||
8 |
★ Short But Thin
Small pro. Usually top-roped by climbing the first 40ft of Sacherer Cracker to the bolts. FFA: Tobin Sorenson & John Bachar, 1974 | 5.11b | 40ft | |||||
9 |
★ Fifteen Seconds of Fame
Pro to 4". FA: unknown FFA: Clint Cummins, 1988 | 5.9 | 2, 1 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ La Cosita, Left Variation
Offwidth/lieback/chimney variation up the large flake on the left. FFA: Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Dan Doody & Wally Upton, 1962 | 5.9 | 60ft | |||||
11 |
★★ La Cosita, Left
Pro to 4". Stem, jam, chimney, and mantel your way up this surprisingly steep pitch. FFA: Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Dan Doody & Wally Upton, 1962 | 5.8 | 60ft | |||||
12 |
★★ Sparkling Give-away
Pro to 3.5". Traverse right along the horizontal crack (and a piton), then mantel your way up the bolted blunt arête. FFA: Pete Takeda & Eric Kohl, 1991 | 5.11a | 60ft, 2 | |||||
13 |
★ La Arista
Start on La Cosita right, then move up the bolted arête to the shared chain top anchor. Pro to 2". FFA: Chris Craig & Mike Creel, 1988 | 5.10c | 90ft, 2 | |||||
14 |
★★ La Cosita, Right
Pro to 2". FA: TM Herbert & Steve Roper, 1963 | 5.9 | 90ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★ Little John, Left
Pro to 4". FFA: Dan Doody, Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell & Wally Upton, 1962 | 5.8 | 80ft | |||||
16 |
★★ Hardly Pinnacle
Starts atop 'Little John, Left'. Pro to 1.5". This route can be top-roped by ascending the Heart Ledges fixed lines and swinging over to the bolted top anchor. FFA: Dale Bard & et al., 1972 | 5.10d | 80ft | |||||
17 |
★★ Little John, Right
Pro to 3". FFA: Jack Turner & Royal Robbins, 1962 | 5.8 | 260ft, 3 | |||||
18 |
Sunday Driver
FFA: Ken Ariza, Mark Carpenter & Dimitri Barton, 1985 | 5.10b | ||||||
19 |
★ Moby Dick, Left
Pro 2 ea. to 4". FFA: Bob Kamps & Frank Sacherer, 1963 | 5.9 | 160ft, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★★★ Moby Dick, Center
Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing. Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4". FFA: Franch Sacherer & Steve Roper, 1963 FA: Herb Swedlund & Penny Carr, 1963 | 5.10a | 190ft, 2 | |||||
21 |
★★ Ahab
Pro to 6". FA: Frank Sacherer & Jim Bridwell, 1964 | 5.10b | 150ft | |||||
22 |
★★ Masquerade / Call Me Ishmael
FFA: Charles Cole & Rusty Reno, 1988 | 5.11d | 200ft, 2 | |||||
23 |
★★ Reed's Leads
Pro to 2". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel. FFA: Wally Reed & Mike Borghoff, 1963 | 5.10b | 150ft, 2 | |||||
24 |
★ Seedy Leads
Pro to 1". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel. FA: Mark Chapman & Rick Sylvester, 1971 FFA: Clint Cummins & John Lockhart, 1988 | 5.11a | 150ft, 3 | |||||
25 |
★★ Thread of Life
Face climbing left of the P1 of Salathé Wall. Pro to 2". Two rope rappel. FFA: Clint Cummins & Dan Nguyen, 1988 | 5.11a | 4 | |||||
26 |
Dust in the Wind
FFA: Joel Ager & Clint Cummins, 1989 | 5.10a | ||||||
27 |
★ Pterodactyl Terrace, Left
Pro to 2.5". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel. FA: Jim Sims & Steve Roper, 1963 FFA: Chris Fredericks & Frank Sacherer, 1965 | 5.10a | 150ft | |||||
28 |
★ Pterodactyl Terrace, Right
Pro to 2". Bolted top anchor. FA: Glen Denny & Eric Beck, 1963 FFA: Vern Clevenger, 1975 | 5.11b | 110ft | |||||
29 |
★★ Pine Line
Pro to 2". FFA: Jeff Schaffer & Greg Schaffer, 1966 | 5.7 | 70ft | |||||
30 |
★★★ Pine Stein
Climb directly after Pine Line leading to the base of the Nose. 3 bolts with great placement for trad gear. Lay back crack climb. | 5.9 | 36ft, 3 | |||||
31 | ★ Dihedral Wall Base | A1 | ||||||
32 |
★★★ Salathé Base
P1 and P2 only of the Salathé Wall. Pro to 4". | 5.10c | 230ft, 2 |
1.1.4.7. Southeast Base Area 27 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Duty Now For the Future | 5.12b | ||||
2 | ★★ General Dynamics | 5.13a | ||||
3 | ★ Base Hits | 5.12a | ||||
4 | Negative Pinnacle, Left | A3 | ||||
5 | Negative Pinnacle, Center | A4 | ||||
6 | ★ Party Mix | 5.10b | ||||
7 | ★ The High Arc | 5.11d | ||||
8 | Rock Neurotic | 5.11b | ||||
9 | Armageddon | 5.10d | ||||
10 | Say Mama, Say Daddy | 5.10a | ||||
11 | Lunar Landscape | 5.10b | ||||
12 | Simulkrime | 5.9 | ||||
13 | Blazo | 5.8 | ||||
14 | Gollum, Left | 5.10a | ||||
15 | ★ Gollum, Right | 5.8 | ||||
16 | The Footstool, Left | 5.8 | ||||
17 | ★ The Promise | 5.11b | ||||
18 | ★ The Believer | 5.12a | ||||
19 | ★ The Bluffer | 5.11a | ||||
20 | ★★ The Footstool, Right | 5.4 | ||||
21 | Waterfall Route | 5.10b | ||||
22 | ★★ Champagne on Ice | 5.11d | ||||
23 | ★ Submen | 5.11b | ||||
24 |
★★ El Matador
FA: Steve Schneider & Dimitri Bevc, 1985 | 5.12a | ||||
25 | End of the World | 5.10d | ||||
26 | ★ North America Wall Base | 5.11 | ||||
27 | ★ Pacific Ocean Wall Base | 5.11b |
1.1.4.8. Schultz's Ridge 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
1.1.4.8.1. West Side 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.4.8.2. East Side 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Aid climbing and other styles
1.1.4.8.3. Dan and Jerry's Playground 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
Fun, shady single pitch routes with lots of bolts on featured black diorite of dubious quality.
approach
Park in dirt pullout 1.8 miles west of Camp four. Walk 100 metres north into the trees. The trail meets the rock near the short sport route "Dreams of Thailand"
1.1.4.9. Loggerhead Buttress 38 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Orange Juice Avenue | 5.10a | ||||
2 | ★★ Chester the Molester | 5.11b | ||||
3 | Yeast Infection | 5.10c | ||||
4 | ★★ Sink Like a Stone | 5.11d | ||||
5 | ★★ Lycra Virgin | 5.11d | ||||
6 | ★★ Material Girl | 5.12b | ||||
7 | Goodhead | 5.11d | ||||
8 | Hammerhead | 5.11b | ||||
9 | ★ Lagerhead | 5.11a | ||||
10 | Head Banger | 5.11b | ||||
11 |
★★ Loggerhead Ledge Route
Dirty, offwidth and chimney climbing to a 3 star view | 5.7 | 250ft, 3 | |||
12 | Log Jam | 5.11b | ||||
13 | ★★ Simian Sex | 5.10d | ||||
14 | Dick Wrenching Classic | 5.10b | ||||
15 | Monkey Hang | 5.11b | ||||
16 | ★★ Conquest of the Stud Monkey | 5.10a | ||||
17 | Edge-u-cator | 5.11c | ||||
18 | ★ Sorry Poopsie | 5.8 | ||||
19 | Teenage Mutant Blowjobs | 5.10b | ||||
20 | Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark | 5.8 | ||||
21 | Cherry Picker | 5.11b | ||||
22 | Project 1 | |||||
23 | Deflowered | 5.11c | ||||
24 | ★ LeNocturne | 5.10a | ||||
25 | Project 2 | |||||
26 | DUI | 5.11a | ||||
27 | Drunk Tank | 5.10d | ||||
28 | Swillar Pillar | 5.10a | ||||
29 | Sober Up | 5.10a | ||||
30 | Mr. Happy | 5.10a | ||||
31 | Project 3 | |||||
32 | Happy's Favourite | 5.10b | ||||
33 | Project 4 | |||||
34 | Sow Sow Sow | 5.10a | ||||
35 | Brown-Eyed Girl | 5.9 | ||||
36 | Stay Lady Stay Back | 5.10a | ||||
37 | ★ Here on the Inside | 5.11a | ||||
38 | ★ Chow Chow Chow | 5.10c |
1.1.4.10. Slab Happy Pinnacle 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ The Silent Freeway | 5.10c | ||||
2 | ★ Slab Happy, Left | 5.11a | ||||
3 | ★ Slab Happy, Center Route | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★ The Happy Ending | 5.11a | ||||
5 | ★ The Dihardral | 5.10c | ||||
6 | ★★ Never Say Dog | 5.11b | ||||
7 | ★★ The Big Juan | 5.12b |
1.1.4.11. East Ledges Area 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Golden Years | 5.12a IV |
1.1.4.12. Miscellaneous 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Abstract Impressionist | A5 VI | ||||
2 | Allied Forces | 5.9 A3 VI | ||||
3 | Continental Drift | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
4 | Disorderly Conduct | 5.9 A5 VI | ||||
5 | ★★ El Cap Tree | 5.7 C2 | 400ft | |||
6 | El Nino | 5.13c A0 VI | ||||
7 | Every Man for Himself | A4 VI | ||||
8 | ★★ Flight of the Albatross | 5.8 A4 | 2900ft, 21 | |||
9 | Gulf Stream | 5.9 A5 VI | ||||
10 | Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys | 5.9 A5 VI | ||||
11 | Kaos | 5.7 A4 VI | ||||
12 | Ned's Excellent Adventure | A4 VI | ||||
13 | Nightmare on California St. | 5.8 A5 VI | ||||
14 | Reach for the Sky | 5.11 A4+ VI | ||||
15 | Reticent | 5.9 A5 VI | ||||
16 |
★★ Reticent Wall
FA: and then most of the 14 pitches above that route’s Lay Lay Ledge are rated A3 or harder, Steve Gerberding, Lori Reddel & Scott Stowe, 1995 | 5.7 A5 | 2700ft, 21 | |||
17 | Ring of Fire | A5 VI | ||||
18 | The Central Scrutinizer | 5.11c A4+ VI | ||||
19 | ★★★ Tribal Rite | {AU} YDS:5.8 AID:A3 | 2900ft, 29 | |||
20 | Virginia | 5.9 A3+ VI |
1.1.5. Eagle Peak 0 routes in Area
1.1.6. Yosemite Falls 163 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.753209, -119.599635
1.1.6.1. Lower Yosemite Falls 120 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.747880, -119.599315
1.1.6.1.1. Swan Slab 40 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.745377, -119.600056
|
1.1.6.1.2. Five Open Books 30 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.749038, -119.597900
description
Top is extremely loose and sloped with huge amounts of loose stuff. Be very careful moving around, setting up or tearing down belays, coiling rope, etc so as to not drop rock on climbers below.
descent notes
Walk up (away) from cliff front to obvious climber's trail that goes (climber's) left and down, then back to skier's left. One (optional) rap, which may be preferred if 3rd/4th class slab traverse is wet.
1.1.6.1.3. Sunnyside Bench, Far Left 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.6.1.4. Sunnyside Bench 33 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.1.6.1.5. Sunnyside Bench, Far Right 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.6.1.6. East 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.6.1.7. Lower Ampitheater 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
|
1.1.6.2. Upper Yosemite Falls 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.756327, -119.597561
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wheel of Torture | 5.7 A4 VI | ||||||
2 | World of Pain | 5.8 A5 VI | ||||||
3 | Via sin Aqua | 5.10 A2 VI | ||||||
4 | Via sin Liquor | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||||
5 | Miscreant Wall | 5.9 A4 V | ||||||
6 |
Misty Wall
FA: Royal Robbins & Dick McCracken, 1963 | 5.11d A0 V | 15 | |||||
7 | Electric Ocean | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||||
8 | Reckless Abandon | 5.8 A4+ VI | ||||||
9 | Aqua Vulva (aka Route 66) | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||||
10 | Dante's Inferno | 5.9 A3+ VI | ||||||
11 |
★★★ Freestone
FA: Jim Bridwell, Ron Kauk & Dale Bard, 1974 | 5.11c | 820ft, 8 | |||||
12 | Geek Towers, Center Route | 5.10a | ||||||
13 | Geek Towers, Right | 5.10a A2 | ||||||
14 | Lost Arrow Chimney | 5.10a | ||||||
15 | Exit from the Notch | 5.10d | ||||||
16 | ★★ Lost Arrow Spire | 5.8 A2 V | 1400ft, 16 | |||||
17 | Lost Arrow Spire Direct Route | 5.11 A3 VI | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Lost Arrow Spire Tip | 5.12b | 250ft | |||||
19 | Blade Runner | 5.11d | ||||||
20 | Yosemite Pointless | 5.9 A3 V | ||||||
21 | Rainbow | 5.10 A3 V | ||||||
22 | Czech Route | 5.10 A3 V | ||||||
23 | Yosemite Point Direct Route | 5.9 | ||||||
24 | Min-Ne-Ah | 5.11d V | ||||||
25 | ★★ Arrowhead Spire | 5.5 | ||||||
26 | East Arrowhead Chimney (Magasaki, My Love) | 5.10d | ||||||
27 | In Justice for All | VI | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Arrowhead Arete | 5.8 |
1.1.6.3. Upper Yosemite Falls Trail 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Montgomery Cliff | 5.11d | ||||
2 | The Right Profile | 5.11b | ||||
3 | Joe Palmer | 5.11b | ||||
4 | ★ Stay Free | 5.11b | ||||
5 | Teenage Abortion | 5.10 | ||||
6 | The Girl Next Door, Left | 5.10 | ||||
7 | The Girl Next Door, Right | 5.10a | ||||
8 | Roger Stokes Route | 5.8 | ||||
9 | R.F. | 5.8 | ||||
10 | ★ Avalon | 5.10b | ||||
11 | T.D.'s Dihedral | 5.9 | ||||
12 | Wild Child | 5.9 | ||||
13 | ★ Galloping Consumption | 5.11a | ||||
14 | ★ Seaside | 5.10c | ||||
15 | ★★ Mindahoonee Wall | 5.11a |
1.1.7. The Royal Arches 145 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.749716, -119.572364
|
1.1.7.1. Indian Canyon 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Maps and Legends | 5.11c | ||||
2 | Police State | 5.10b | ||||
3 | ★★ Knuckle Buster | 5.11a | ||||
4 |
★ The Wand
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.11d | ||||
5 | A-5 Pinnacle | 5.10a |
1.1.7.2. Church Bowl 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.749136, -119.579652
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Black is Brown
(SuperTopo description is incorrect.) Rap with 2 ropes or walk off 4th class left. Pro to 2". FFA: Kim Schmitz & Frank Trummel, 1966 | 5.9 | 150ft | |||
2 |
As It Is
Mungy. FFA: Walt Shipley | 5.8 | ||||
3 |
★ Deja Thorus
Often TR'ed with directionals after Uncle Fanny. Pro to 3". FFA: Jim Beyer & Misa Giesey, 1978 | 5.10a | 120ft | |||
4 |
★ Uncle Fanny
Pro to 3". Descend with 80' rappel. FA: Bruce Price & Michael McLean, 1970 | 5.7 | 120ft | |||
5 |
★★ Church Bowl Lieback
4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1". FFA: unknown, 1987 | 5.8 | 120ft | |||
6 |
★ Pole Position
Descend carefully via 100' rappel followed by 4th class downclimbing. FFA: John Harpole & et al. | 5.10a | 130ft, 8 | |||
7 |
★ Revival
Descend via two rope rappel, or careful 100' rappel and 4th class downclimbing. Pro to 1.5". FFA: unknown, 1982 | 5.10a | 130ft | |||
8 |
Gardening At Night
Garden your way through munge and moss, starting in the dirty dihedral somewhere above Pole Position. FFA: Clint Cummins & Joel Ager, 1989 | 5.10c | 2 | |||
9 |
★ Tammy Fae
Pro to 2.5". Natural top anchor. FFA: Mark Carpenter & et al. | 5.10d | 130ft, 5 | |||
10 |
Aunt Fanny's Pantry
Pro to 3". FA: Sheridan Anderson & Leo LebBon, 1965 | 5.4 | 100ft | |||
11 |
Jacob's Ladder
Pro to 3". FFA: Mark Carpenter & Jeff Hornibrook | 5.10c | 90ft, 4 | |||
12 |
Skid Row Messiah
Starts above Aunt Fanny's Pantry. FFA: Walk Shipley & et al., 1989 | 5.11a | 150ft, 2, 4 | |||
13 |
★ 800 Club
Starts above Aunt Fanny's Pantry. P1 only. Two addtional pitches (5.10) continue up on poor quality rock and are seldom climbed. FFA: Bill Russell, Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990 | 5.11a | 80ft, 5 | |||
14 |
★★ Book of Revelation
Pro to 2.5" with offsets. FA: Gordon Webster & Chuck Ostin, 1965 FFA: Bob Finn & Chris Falkenstein, 1974 | 5.11a | 140ft | |||
15 |
★★ Church Bowl Tree
FA: Tom Rohr FA: Mike Jefferson & Dave Collins, 1970 FFA: unknown, 1982 | 5.10b | 60ft, 2 | |||
16 |
★ More Balls Than Brains
FA: Dana Brown, 1980 | A3 PG13 | 60ft | |||
17 |
★ Church Bowl Chimney
Pro to 3.5". To descend, walk right and rap 90' from bolts. FFA: unknown | 5.6 | 120ft | |||
18 |
★★ The Energizer
FFA: Dan McDevitt & Sue McDevitt, 1990 | 5.11b | 70ft, 10 | |||
19 |
★★ Atheist
FFA: Dave Bengston, 1990 | 5.13a | 70ft, 9 | |||
20 |
★ Church Bowl Terrace
Pro to 3". FFA: Jim Bridwell & Hamish Mutch, 1965 | 5.8 | 90ft | |||
21 |
★★ Bitches' Terror
FFA: Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990 | 5.11a | 80ft, 11 | |||
22 |
★★★ Bishop's Terrace
Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch. FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden & Steve Roper, 1959 FFA: Chuck Pratt & Herb Swedlund, 1960 | 5.8 | 180ft, 2 | |||
23 |
★ Stephanie's Corner
FFA: Stephanie McCormack & Walt Shipley | 5.8 | ||||
24 |
Sacrilege
FFA: Walt Shipley & Tucker Tech, 1987 | 5.11a | 2 | |||
25 |
Blasphemy
FFA: Walt Shipley & Tucker Tech, 1987 | 5.11a | 1 | |||
26 |
Heretic
Poor rock quality. FFA: Walt Shipley & Tucker Tech, 1987 | 5.10c | ||||
27 |
Catholic Discipline
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.12 | ||||
28 |
★★ Bishop's Balcony
Rap down via Bishop's Terrace. FA: Frank Sacherer & Gary Colliver, 1962 | 5.5 A3 | 2 | |||
29 |
★ No Rest for the Wicked
Pro to 2". FFA: Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990 | 5.11b | 70ft, 4 | |||
30 |
★★ Oral Roberts
Pro to 2.5". FFA: Mark Carpenter, 1988 | 5.12a | 80ft, 4 | |||
31 |
★★ 700 Club
Gear optional. FFA: Mark Carpenter & Scott Stow, 1988 | 5.11c | 70ft, 7 |
1.1.7.3. Church Bowl, Far Right 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Master of Cylinders
FFA: Eric Kohl, 1992 | 5.11a | 50ft, 4 | |||
2 |
★ Fire and Brimstone
FFA: Chick Holtkamp & Chris Ballinger, 1981 | 5.11d | 190ft, 2 | |||
3 |
★ Fool's Finger
Pro to 3". FFA: Bill Price | 5.11c | 60ft, 1 | |||
4 |
Lost Flake
FFA: unknown | 5.6 | 50ft | |||
5 |
★ Skindad the Scaler
Pro to 2". FFA: Walt Shipley & Kevin Fosburg, 1991 | 5.11d | 80ft, 8 |
1.1.7.4. Rhombus Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | My Rhombus | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Q.E.D. (East of Eden) | 5.11a |
1.1.7.5. Serenity Crack Area 23 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Super Slide
Two forgettable access pitches lead to three awesome pitches of flakes and splitter cracks. Rap the route with two ropes. FA: Gene Drake & Rex Spaith, 1971 | 5.9 | 490ft, 5 | |||
2 | Rupto Pac | 5.11c | ||||
3 |
★★ Super Slab
From where the approach trail meets the cliff head up and left along the face for about 180 ft, passing one bolt line, looking for a left facing corner with blocky climbing up and right up the corner with a bolt line rising up and rightwards (for three bolts, then curving back left) on the face to the left of the corner.
Rap to the hanging belay, then from there off the left edge of the ramp to a tree, then to the ground. FA: Gene Drake & Rex Spaith, 1971 | 5.9 | 500ft, 5 | |||
4 | Peter's Out | 5.12 | ||||
5 |
★★★ Trial by Fire
Fist size flaring crack widens at about 80 ft to about body width ends with a squeeze under a block with anchors on top of the block. | 5.8 | 120ft | |||
6 | Deminonde | 5.11c | ||||
7 | Lethal Weapon | 5.11d | ||||
8 | Endorphine | 5.11d | ||||
9 | ★ Adrenaline | 5.11b | ||||
10 |
★★★ Serenity Crack
FA: Glen Denny & Les Wilson, 1961 FFA: Tom Higgins & Chris Jones, 1967 | 5.10d | 360ft | |||
11 | New Generation | 5.12a | ||||
12 | ★★ Maxine's Wall | 5.10c | 260ft, 4 | |||
13 | ★★ Firefingers | 5.11b | ||||
14 | Pigs in Space | 5.12 | ||||
15 | Mother of the Future | 5.11a | ||||
16 | Permanent Waves | |||||
17 | Deviltry | 5.11a | ||||
18 | Holy Diver | 5.11 | ||||
19 | ★ Hell's Hollow | 5.10a | ||||
20 | ★★★ Sons of Yesterday | 5.10a | 790ft | |||
21 | Ahwahnee Buttress | 5.10d | ||||
22 |
Moan Fest
This climb was the first free route up the buttress, it was done before the much better Sons, Sons was full of dirt and took months of cleaning with ice axes and thats why I chose this line, it isn't recommended at all, do Sons. FA: Dimitri Barton-Steve Gerberding | 5.10c | ||||
23 | ★★ Firefingers (1st pitch) | {AU} YDS:5.10c | 82ft |
1.1.7.6. Devil's Bathtub Area 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Peruvian Flake | 5.10a | 98ft | |||
2 | Astro Turf | 5.11 | ||||
3 | ★ Draw the Line | 5.11b | ||||
4 | ★ Fine Line | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Peeping Tom | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Sea Hag | 5.10 | ||||
7 | Sea Cow | 5.10 | ||||
8 | ★★ Surplus Cheaper Hands | 5.10c | 130ft | |||
9 | ★★ Age of Industry | 5.11 | 98ft | |||
10 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route (1st pitch) | 5.6 | ||||
11 | ★★ Astro Spam | 5.11a | 110ft | |||
12 | Distant Driver | 5.10d | ||||
13 | ★★ Arete Butler | 5.10a | 140ft | |||
14 | Royal Prerogative | 5.9 | ||||
15 | Krovy Rookers | 5.10b | ||||
16 | Rum Sodomy in the Lash | 5.10d | ||||
17 | Ilsa She Wolf of the SS | 5.10c | ||||
18 | The Premature Ejaculation | 5.11d | ||||
19 | Metal Error | 5.10+ | ||||
20 | Level Two | 5.10 | ||||
21 | Feminine Protection | 5.10d | ||||
22 | Facade | 5.11 | ||||
23 | ★★ Y Crack | 5.10a | 130ft | |||
24 | Fish Fingers | 5.11b | ||||
25 | Way-Homo Sperm Burpers From Fresno | 5.10c |
1.1.7.7. The Shining Area 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | God Told Me to Skin You Alive | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★★ The Shining | 5.12c | ||||
3 | ★ Hung Like a Hamster | 5.11c | ||||
4 | The Trowel | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Kling Cobra | 5.10d | ||||
6 | Trivial Pursuit | 5.9 |
1.1.7.8. The Royal Arches Base, Center 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Hookie | 5.12a | ||||
2 | ★ Wise Crack | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★ Texas Chain Saw Massacre | 5.11a | ||||
4 | ★ King Snake | 5.12 | ||||
5 | ★★ Poker Face | 5.10b | ||||
6 | ★ Aces and Eights | 5.11b | ||||
7 | ★★ Face Card | 5.10c | 82ft | |||
8 |
King of Hearts
After the first ascent this climb was repeated by Jonny Woodward and Ed Barry- A bolt was added on rappel by some idiots in the run-out to the belay. It was a 45-50 foot run-out on 5.10+ but now much less of a run with the added bolt. FA: Dimitri Barton-Steve Gerberding | 5.10d | ||||
9 | Sleight of Hand | 5.10b | ||||
10 | Dire Straits | 5.10 | ||||
11 | Stacked Deck | 5.11- | ||||
12 | Public Enema Number One | 5.11c | ||||
13 | Barney Rubble | 5.10d | ||||
14 | The Violent Bear It Away | 5.10c | ||||
15 | Double Trouble | 5.10b |
1.1.7.9. The Royal Arches Center 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.747941, -119.570113
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Die Schweine von Oben | 5.11 A3+ VI | ||||||
2 | Toxic Waste Dump | 5.8 A3+ VI | ||||||
3 | Bulging Puke | 5.9 A4 V | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★★★ Royal Arches Route
An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.
| 5.7 A0 | 1400ft, 15 | |||||
5 | ★ The Cobra | 5.11a | ||||||
6 | Arches Direct | VI |
1.1.7.10. Terrace Area 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ The Rambler | 5.10d | ||||
2 | ★ Shaky Flakes | 5.11a | ||||
3 |
Friday the 13th
This climb is very run-out it ends at the Shaky Flakes tree, the last pitch has no bolts and is 5.9 some people thought they may have done this climb but hey didn't do the last pitch, again it has no bolts FA: Dimitri Barton-Scott Burke | 5.10b | ||||
4 | Slander Session | 5.10 | ||||
5 | Flakes Away | 5.10 | ||||
6 | Samural Crack | 5.11- | ||||
7 | Hershey Highway | 5.8 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Mid-Life Crisis | 5.10 | ||||
9 | ★ Reefer Madness | 5.10d | ||||
10 | ★ Arches Terrace | 5.8 | ||||
11 | ★ Greasy but Groovy | 5.10d | ||||
12 | ★★ Surf Nazi | 5.10- | ||||
13 | Fallen Arches | 5.9 | ||||
14 | Wharf Rat | 5.10- | ||||
15 | The Mouse That Soared | 5.10 | ||||
16 | Lingering Lines | 5.10 | ||||
17 | Crying for Mama | 5.10a | ||||
18 |
★★ Arches Terrace Direct
FA: FFA Dimitri Barton - Dave Nielson | 5.11a | ||||
19 | ★★ Hang Dog Flyer | 5.12c | ||||
20 | ★★ 10.96 | 5.10d |
1.1.7.11. Horse Trail Boulder Cracks 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Space Invader | 5.12a | ||||
2 | Left Mini-Meanie | 5.10b | ||||
3 | Right Mini-Meanie | 5.11a | ||||
4 | Pint-Sized | 5.12 | ||||
5 | Twist of Fate | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Bad Ass Baby | 5.11c | ||||
7 | ★ Bad Ass Momma | 5.11d |
1.1.8. Washington Column 33 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.748155, -119.560208
|
1.1.8.1. Base Area 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Trial by Jury | 5.10a | ||||
2 | ★★ Power Failure | 5.11a | ||||
3 | The Fang | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★ Space Case | 5.10c | ||||
5 | ★ Jesu Joy | 5.10c | ||||
6 | ★ Wing of Bat | 5.10c | ||||
7 | ★★ Dwindling Energy | 5.11b | ||||
8 | Nowhere Man | 5.10c | ||||
9 | Turkey Vulture | 5.11b | ||||
10 | ★ Dinner Ledge | 5.10a | ||||
11 |
★★★ Jo Jo
This gorgeous splitter crack sits between the first pitches of The Prow and South Face. The crack slowly widens from fingers, to hands, to fists, to off fists before meeting a bolted top anchor shared with P1 of The Prow. Cams to 4" with doubles or triples of 1"-3". FFA: Bruce Pollock, Matt Pollock & Luke Freeman, 1972 | 5.10b | 85ft | |||
12 | ★★ The Prow | 5.11c | ||||
13 | Tom Cat | 5.10b | 160ft | |||
14 | ★★ The Panther | 5.11d |
1.1.8.2. South Face 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | South Central | 5.10a A2 V | 1100ft, 12 | |||
2 |
★ Southern Man
FA: Francis Ross & Rich Albushkat, 1992 | 5.8 A2 V | 1300ft, 8 | |||
3 |
The Direct Route
Old style route, hard route finding and a few demanding chemneys but worth doing ! Expo descent. FFA: John Dyer, Robin Hansen & DeWitt Allen, 1940 | 5.9 | 1200ft, 12 | |||
4 |
★★★ South Face
FA: Layton Kor & Chris Fredericks, 1964 | 5.8 C1 V | 1200ft, 11 | |||
5 |
South Face (free)
FFA: Matt Wilder, 2002 | 5.14a | 1200ft, 10 | |||
6 |
★★★ Skull Queen
FA: Chuck Clance, Jeff Altenburg & and Steve Bosque, 1984 | 5.8 C2 V | 1200ft, 12 |
1.1.8.3. East Face 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Odyssey | 5.11 V | ||||
2 |
★★ The Re-animator
FA: Kohl & Shipley, 1990 | 5.8 A3+ V | 1200ft, 11 | |||
3 | ★★★ The Prow | {AU} YDS:5.6 AID:A2 COM:V | 1200ft, 12 | |||
4 |
★★★ Ten Days After
FA: John Barbella & Eric Brand, 1987 | 5.8 A2 VI | 1100ft, 13 | |||
5 | Electric Ladyland | 5.10a A4 VI | ||||
6 | Horney/Johnson | 5.10 A3+ VI | ||||
7 | Mideast Crisis | 5.8 A4 VI | 1300ft | |||
8 | Saddam Hussein | 5.9 A4 V | ||||
9 | Great Slab Route | 5.8 A4 V | ||||
10 | ★★★ Astroboy | 5.11c | 3 | |||
11 |
★★★ Astroman
This is what it's all about, pitch after pitch of demanding, ultra high quality climbing on excellent stone w/ a surpassing view. Almost all the pitches would be highly sought after if they were base routes and three or four would be mega classics. If you don't think this climb is great, either you're just being contrary or you need to find another sport. Bibliographic Note 1: supertopo.com has an excellent free topo download for this climb that most will find more useful than the following route description: http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Washington-Column-Astroman Bibliographic Note 2: An old issue Rock and Ice (from the 80s) had an article by Bob Yoho providing the pitch by pitch "betamax" - move by move sequences for all the cruxes -- on this route. This is amusing to look at after you do the climb, but it will probably just confuse you beforehand. Approach: Walk east from the Awahnee on a road for about 15 minutes until you encounter a climber's trail on the left which heads up to Column. The climber's trail can be hard to spot in low light, so if you're getting an early start, it's worth scoping out at least this much of the approach beforehand. The climber's trail continues past the start of AM which is more or less directly below the obvious right-facing 'enduro' corner. After leaving the main climber's trail, scramble up ledges to a small ledge with a tree which is where the climb starts. Without route finding errors, the approach can be done in an easy 45 minutes. P1: Trend up and right on easy vegetated ground for about 100' to a ledge with anchors. This bushy pitch can be wet and unpleasant in spring. It makes sense to skip this belay and continue up a right facing layback w/ finger jams (short stretch of 10a) on steeper, nicer rock for about another 50 feet to another set of anchors; if you plan on doing the easier version of the next pitch, belay here, otherwise traverse left 20' and belay at the base of a thin crack. 10a 170-190' P2: The Boulder Problem. Option 1 the traditional Boulder Problem: From the left end of the ledge, climb up a thin crack, fiddle in some small nuts, bust some fingery, footless, old school 11c moves (the technical crux of the route), reach a ledge/flake and traverse right 20, then up another 20'of ±5.9 layback jamming to a small, sloping ledge w/ fixed anchors. Option 2, easier, more direct, less well protected. This variation goes straight up, avoiding the two traverses. Historically, the route did not go this way because it was harder to protect but with modern small cams (~0.2 Yellow) it is safe. The climbing is thin lay-backing/face climbing. ST rates it 10a but 10d is more like it. The need to hang out and place gear adds some difficulty. After you make it through the crux first 10', you encounter a ramp with a crack in it. Be forewarned, this may be covered in dirt, exasperating when you are desperately trying to plug a unit (~0.5 Purple). Above this point, the two options merge. I will blasphemously recommend option two, skipping the boulder problem, as the more direct, in character with the rest of the climbing, momentum preserving way. Note: Dean Potter caught some grief when he took the piker's variant during his solo of AM, so if you've got hard-ass friends or are in the limelight, you might want to "bear down" and go the hard way. Note 2: Either way, this is a quality pitch. Pitch 3: The 'Enduro' Corner. Totally classic, an endless Indian Creek style, continuous corner which favors those with smaller hands. Starts out with #2.5 Friends and gradually thins. Keep you eye out for the occasional bomber hand-jam and stem rest. Towards the top, the corner thins more (1.5 Friend) and most people go from jamming laybacks to straight lay-backing. This point is probably the crux of the pitch and ends with a thank god sinker hand jam. The last 40' of the pitch are 5.7 chimney in which it is nice to have a #4 Friend or Camalot. Belay at the second set of anchors, on a big ledge. 11c 165'. If you rap from here, you've done 'Astroboy'. P4. One of two "easy" pitches on the climb. Head up and left in an easy, blocky corner system for maybe 20'until you hit an cruiser hand-crack which is followed to a small stance in a flare with bolted anchors. 5.9 80'. P5. Another great one, reminiscent of the Rostrum. Follow a wide hands corner crack for about 1/2 a rope length until encountering a roof; the trick on this pitch in rationing and/or walking your bigger gear through this section. From the roof, reach left to a thin crack system, finagle in some small gear (RPs, purple Alien) then step over to this crack and follow it up ( 10c layback & face climbing, occasional small nut) until you can reach back right where the crack is easier and followed to another bolted anchor ledge beneath the ominous, impending maw of The Slot. 10c, 130'. P6. The Harding Slot. Competitor of the Hollow Flake for THE imagination seizing Valley pitch. Many strong climbers have melted down here. There are a couple of reasons for this: first, it requires a style of climbing that is rarely encountered outside of the Valley and avoided in general and second, most average and large size people don't believe they can fit through the slot. (This is a great pitch to be small on.) At any rate, from the belay crank up on straight forward 10+/11- lay-backing for about 25' until a stance. Place some #1 Friend size gear (BETA ALERT: there is an obvious 1.5 Friend placement here -- don't fill it up w/ gear.) Once you've got bomber gear, make a plan and execute. The next 6 or 7 feet can be both baffling and exhausting. You're working with very thin hands (for only one hand!) in a slick, smooth flare that's not quite a chimney and not quite a corner. ST indicates a "dyno chicken wing" is the secret here; I say nonsense -- that's the sort of inscrutable beta that's likely to leave have you hanging on the rope, thinking about rap anchors. So somehow you've passed the entry move, and you're standing on a small ledge, still able to move your head. You're officially in the slot. Make sure there's nothing on the back of your harness (you should have lengthened your knot at the belay and left your helmet on the ground) and start squirming. They say take an 'S' path but it's not like you could move otherwise. Stay calm and settle for an inch at a time progress. The entire slot itself is about 20-25' long and the really narrow part 10-15'. There is gear to be had in the back of the slot but don't place it unless you have it in for your second; anyhow, it would be pretty hard to fall -- if you slipped, you'd quickly wedge. For those absolutely too large to squeeze through, there is an alternative, lay-backing the outside of slot, supposedly 11 X. (I question the X as I've heard a fairly reliable story of a guy going this way and taking the fall unscathed three times before he finally made it through.) I've belayed a 2nd taking this outside route and it seemed horrendous -- if possible, any members of your party who have to go this way should be following. The Slot is the key to route. Be ready for it which means having someone who can lead 5.10 squeeze and get through the baffling entry moves. Some parties which had been cruising up to that point bail after being stymied by the entry moves. There are some great pitches above the slot and just because one move is giving you fits is no reason not to experience them; if need be, aid a couple moves and press on. 11b, 60'. Note: you probably started the slot in the sun and ended in the shade. Plan accordingly. You're now at the point of no return. The ledge at the end of slot is the last with bolted anchors and the last place you could reasonably retreat from. P7. Hands around a roof (10b), then some 5.9ish hands brings you to a spot where the traditional route goes left at 11b and the pikers var. right at 10c. The 11b way is better (technical face/stem move with good gear) but if your tank is running low, discretion might be the better part of valor. More quality 5.9 cracking takes you to a good ledge where you'll actually have to rig your own belay. 11b/10c 150'. P8. Changing corners. Fantastic. 20 or 30' of easy ground bring you to mantle (11a) which is one of those moves that you can sail through one time only to flail the next time. There is an old, questionable bolt here which can be backed up w/ something like a #0.4 grey; if you're really motivated top rope pro (#2 Rock?) can be had. After the mantle, some more easy ground takes you to the base of the corner, right-facing at this point, which is ascended until things get too hard and you step left around the arete onto slabby face which is followed for a few feet until you start wondering about your last pro, out of sight, below you around the arete. BETA ALERT: reach blindly back right and place something (2 Friend, 1 Camalot?) in the original corner. Eventually you rejoin the corner, now facing left, for a long stretch of finger-locks and stemming (small nuts). (The face passage is sensational but can be avoided by staying in the corner (11d, better gear)). After the corner ends, continue in easier, wider cracks (good to have a 3 Camalot and a 4 Friend) until a stance in the vicinity of a couple of fixed pins. There are several belay options before this point but its good to stretch it to here in order to be able to link the next two pitches. 11b 150'. P9: Blast through a long stretch of 10- which trends right. Then up 50' of 5.9 cups and fists (#3 through #4 Camalot, easy to walk). At the end of this crack, step right and hand traverse right to the left end of a long ledge and set up a belay. This may be a really good pitch, but at this point you're probably too sated to really appreciate it. 10a, 200'. Move the belay to the right end of the ledge. P10. The scary face pitch. Not the best pitch on the route, but as the sting in the tail, essential to the experience. The nature of the rock changes from classic Valley granite to something less desirable. Up an easy corner for about 20'. Then a reachy 10+ move with decent protection including an extruding angle that makes a good foothold (shame); ST gives this section an R but it seemed pretty well protected to me. Up a few easier face moves, taking whatever gear you can get, and establish yourself at the base of a thin, downward pointing flake. You can get ostensibly decent gear at the bottom of the flake (red RP, #0.2 yellow) but the flake is expanding, so this gear probably isn't worth much. If you're lucky, there may be some fixed heads within reach to the left. Whatever the case, sack up, commit to sending and work up the flake (10b) which gradually gets easier but doesn't offer pro for at least 20'; if you blew it in this section, it is possible you'd zipper all the way down to a menacing spike at the start of the difficulties. At any rate, you succeed, place a 1.5 Friend size piece (phew!) and romp up easier ground to a ledgey area. 10d, 100+'. 50' of 4th class up and right leads to the top of the column. Descent: follow a rough trail, north for a short while and then east for much longer, with the occasional class three or four section. This will eventually feed you into slabs which are tediously descended (class two to four, possibly complicated by wet streaks) until you eventually can walk back west towards the column and find the trail to your packs and the bottom. The full descent from the top of the column to the valley floor will take two to three hours and would be quite sketchy in the dark. I don't remember much more about the descent but it would probably be well advised to consult SuperTopo or some other authoritative reference before embarking on it for the first time. Protection 1 ea 2,3,4 RPs 2 ea 1-4 Rocks 1 ea 5-7 Rocks 1 ea purple & blue Alien 2 ea cams from #0.3 blue to #0.5 purple Camalot 3 ea cams from .75 to #2 Camalot 2 ea #3 Camalot 1 ea #4 Friend, #4 Camalot. Water, haul line, headlamp. | 5.11c IV | 10 | |||
12 | Terminal Research | 5.11c | ||||
13 | Bad Wall | 5.8 A4 VI |
1.1.9. North Dome 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.755054, -119.559991
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Skid Row | 5.8 | ||||||
2 | West Face | 5.8 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★ South Face
Fantastic views, almost guaranteed solitude, 900' of solid granite, a great route at 5.7 (or more likely 5.9). The real crux is route-finding on P3. Valley Approach: Climb Royal Arches with an early start, then hike to the base of North Dome. Tuolumne Approach: Hike in from Porcupine Creek. From the base of the south face, hike up a 3rd class ledge angling from bottom left to top right, aiming for the large corner in the centre of the face.
Unrope and continue up 3rd class terrain to the summit. Valley Descent: Quite epic, descend the North Dome gully. Tuolumne "Descent": actually ascent, hike up the trails to Porupine Creek. FA: Mark Powell & Wally Reed, 1957 FFA: Mort Hempel, Irene Ortenberger & Steve Roper, 1960 | 5.7 | 900ft, 8 | |||||
4 | Mass Assault | 5.9 | ||||||
5 | ★ Freaks of Nature | 5.11c A0 | ||||||
6 | ★★ Priceless Friends | 5.10a | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Crest Jewel | 5.10a | 720ft | |||||
8 |
★ Nataraj
A long, moderate slab climb with a bit of A0 bolt pulling at the start. Starts below the left end of the huge roof system that dominates the Southeast face of North Dome. Finishes a few feet from Crest Jewel. FA: Dan Dingle, Bob Steed & Chris Callegari, 2008 | 5.10b A0 | 1500ft, 13, 67 | |||||
9 | ★ Dakshina (Psycho Killer) | 5.11 | ||||||
10 | Doctor Gravity | 5.11b |
1.1.10. Half Dome 45 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.743815, -119.534038
summary
|
1.1.10.1. Northwest Face 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.745412, -119.535426
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ North Ridge | 5.10d | ||||
2 | Northwest Buttress | 5.8 A3 IV | ||||
3 | ★★★ Final Exam | 5.10d | ||||
4 |
★★★ Regular Northwest Face
FA: Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick & Jerry Gallwas, 1957 FFA: Dean Potter †, 2002 | 5.12b | 2200ft, 23 | |||
5 | Arcturas | 5.7 A4 VI | ||||
6 | ★★ Direct Northwest Face | 5.10a C2+ VI | 2000ft, 23 | |||
7 | Queen of Spades | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
8 | Tis-sa-ack | 5.9 A2 VI | 1800ft, 22 | |||
9 | ★★★ The Kali Yuga | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||
10 | ★★★ Zenith | 5.9 A4 VI | 1800ft, 21 | |||
11 | The White Room | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||
12 | The Big Chill | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
13 | Arctic Sea | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||
14 | Bushido | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
15 | The Jet Stream | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
16 | The Luminescent Wall | 5.10b A4 VI |
1.1.10.2. Southwest Face 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 37.741452, -119.538385
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ On the Edge | 5.11b | ||||||
2 | ★ Labor of Love | 5.10b | ||||||
3 | Snake in the Grass | 5.10b | ||||||
4 |
★★ Salathe Route / Southwest Face
FA: John Salathé & Anton Nelson, 1946 FFA: Frank Sacherer, Bob Kamps & Andy Lichtman, 1964 | 5.10b | 800ft, 7 | |||||
5 | ★★ Dome Polishers | 5.9 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★ The Deucedilke | 5.9 | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Snake Dike
Bolts replaced in 1992. FFA: Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 5.7 R | 1800ft, 8 | |||||
8 |
★ Eye in the Sky
Bolts replaced in 2010. FFA: Mark Spencer, Shirley Spencer, Dan Abbot & David Abbot, 1985 | 5.10b | 1500ft, 7 | |||||
9 | ★★ Snake Dance | 5.9 | ||||||
10 | ★★ Dreamscape | 5.11+ IV | ||||||
11 |
★★ The Fast Lane
FA: Dimitri Barton - Scott Burke | 5.11+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★★ Autobahn
Bolts replaced in 2010. FFA: Charles Cole, Rusty Reno & John Middendorf, 1985 | 5.11+ | 1400ft, 12 |
1.1.10.3. South Face 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.741338, -119.534352
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lost Again | 5.10 A3+ VI | ||||
2 | South Face Route | 5.8 A4 VI | ||||
3 |
Karma
Orignally graded with 5.11+ (A1). Freed in 2023 from the German Tobias Wolf; More at www.kletterblock.de FA: Dave Shultz, Ken Yager und Jim Campbell, Ken Yager & Jim Campbell, 1986 FFA: Tobias Wolf, Oct 2023 | 5.13d | 15 | |||
4 |
★★★ Southern Belle
Full story of the FFA by Scott Cosgrove FA: Dave Schultz & Walt Shipley, 1987 FFA: Dave Schultz & Scott Cosgrove, 1988 | 5.12d V R | 2300ft, 14, 30 | |||
5 | Call of the Wild | 5.10d | ||||
6 | Happy Gully | 5.8 | ||||
7 |
The Xue Way
Dedicated to Michelle Xue, who recently passed away in an ice climbing accident. FA: Chris Koppl, Brian Pence & Vitaliy Musiyenko, Nov 2019 | 5.11+ A0 | 20 |
1.1.10.4. Miscellaneous 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blue Shift | 5.11b A4 VI | ||||
2 | Promised Land | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||
3 | Psychedelic Shack | 5.10 A3+ VI | ||||
4 | Same as it Never Was | 5.11b A4 VI | ||||
5 | Shadows | A5 VI | ||||
6 | The Vodka Putsch | 5.10 A4 VI |
1.1.10.5. Porcelain Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Bouldering and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Porcelain Wall | VI | ||||
2 | Sargantana | 5.9 A5 VI | ||||
3 | Sky is Falling | 5.10 FB:5A VI | ||||
4 | When Hell Was in Session | 5.9 A5 VI |
1.1.11. Glacier Point 145 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.726916, -119.553553
1.1.11.1. Mt Broderick 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.733022, -119.535315
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unemployment Line | 5.9 A3 | ||||
2 | 40 oz or Freedom | 5.10a A3 V |
1.1.11.2. Illilouette Canyon 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.716511, -119.561357
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dark Shadows | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Fistibule | 5.11c | ||||
3 | ★ Air Bare | 5.10c | ||||
4 | ★ Plane Fare | 5.10b | ||||
5 | Way Lost | 5.9 | ||||
6 | Fresh Squeezed | 5.10a | ||||
7 | Roto Killer | 5.10- | ||||
8 | Tennis Shoe Crack | 5.6 | ||||
9 | George's Secretary | 5.8 | ||||
10 | ★ Streamline | 5.12b | ||||
11 | ★ Ape Index | 5.11b | ||||
12 | Cynical Pinnacle, Wrong | 5.10b | ||||
13 | ★ Cynical Pinnacle, Right | 5.10c |
1.1.11.3. Glacier Point Apron 104 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.732251, -119.567845
|
1.1.11.3.1. East 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.730274, -119.564669
1.1.11.3.2. Center 36 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
1.1.11.3.3. West 39 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.1.11.4. Staircase Falls Area 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.734753, -119.574914
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Old A5 | A3 | ||||
2 | Old A3 | A3+ | ||||
3 | Old A2 | A2 | ||||
4 | ★ The Cafeteria Lieback | 5.11a | ||||
5 | ★ Good For Your Soul | 5.11a | ||||
6 | Blockbuster | 5.11c A1 | ||||
7 | Derelict's Diagonal | A4 | ||||
8 | Broken Circuit | 5.12 | ||||
9 | ★★ Circuit Breaker | 5.11b | ||||
10 | Derelict's Delight | 5.11c | ||||
11 | ★ Doggie Submission | 5.10b | ||||
12 | Speed Racer | 5.11c |
1.1.11.5. Liberty Cap 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.729379, -119.531747
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | West Buttress | 5.10 A3 V | ||||
2 | Southwest Face | 5.8 A2 VI | 1100ft, 11 | |||
3 |
Bad Moon Rising
FA: Steve Bosque, Ezra Alle & Josh Mucci, 2012 | 5.8 A2 V | 14 | |||
4 | Direct Southwest Face | 5.10 A5 VI | ||||
5 | A Joint Adventure | 5.9 A3+ IV | ||||
6 | Turkey Shoot | 5.9 A3 V |
1.1.11.6. Firefall Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ...A Sad State of Afairs | 5.7 A3 V | ||||
2 | Ashes to Ashes | A4 V |
1.1.11.7. Panorama Cliff 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.720633, -119.551861
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bananarama | 5.10a A3 V |
1.1.11.8. 9 O'Clock Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ice Age | 5.8 A5 VI | ||||
2 | Crystal Cyclone | A4+ VI | ||||
3 | Time Machine | A5+ VI | ||||
4 | Express Checkout | A VI |
1.1.11.9. Vernal Falls 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.726457, -119.544301
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Magic Line
One of the hardest cracks in the world. FFA: Ron Kauk, 1996 FFA: Lonnie Kauk, 14 Nov 2018 | 5.14c R | 110ft |
1.1.12. Sentinel Rock Area 158 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.729474, -119.589529
1.1.12.1. Public Sanitation 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.739403, -119.587240
1.1.12.1.1. Lower Tier 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.739514, -119.587229
1.1.12.1.2. Upper Tier 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
1.1.12.2. Chapel Wall 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.737769, -119.590004
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Colors | 5.12b | ||||
2 |
★★ Fly girls
The corner on the far left, up the sandy hill. Gear to 5” | 5.10d | ||||
3 |
★★★ 96 degrees in the shade
Face directly right of Fly Girls corner. | 5.12c | ||||
4 |
★★★ Mr Pink Eyes
Not the bolt line on the right side of the Arete, this is Pink Panther, but one line right of this. | 5.11b | ||||
5 | ★★ New Wave | 5.11d | 82ft | |||
6 | ★★ New Wave Direct | 5.12b | ||||
7 | ★★★ Heathenistic Pursuit | 5.10b | 130ft | |||
8 | ★★ Gold Dust | 5.10d | 110ft | |||
9 | ★ Berlin Wall | 5.12b | ||||
10 | ★★ Drive By Shooting | 5.12a | 66ft | |||
11 | ★ Cripps | 5.13b | ||||
12 | ★★ Double Dragon | 5.12b | ||||
13 | ★★ House of Pain | 5.12a | ||||
14 | ★ Cling Free | 5.11c | ||||
15 | ★★★ The Great Escape | 5.11c | 4 | |||
16 | ★★ Mongoloid | 5.11c | ||||
17 | ★ Max Deviator | 5.11d | ||||
18 | ★★ Controlled Burn | 5.11a | ||||
19 |
★★★ Cosmic Debris
A overhanging finger crack. FA: Bill Price, 1980 | 5.13b | 30ft | |||
20 | Bad Company | 5.11d | ||||
21 | False Prophets | 5.11c | ||||
22 | Lay Lady Lieback | 5.11a | ||||
23 | Delicate Delineate | 5.11c | ||||
24 | ★★ Lighten Up | 5.12b | ||||
25 | On The Loose | 5.9 | ||||
26 | ★★ Great Escape | 5.11c | ||||
27 | Chockblock Chimney | 5.8 | ||||
28 | Tithe | 5.9 | ||||
29 | The Symphony | 5.9 A1 | ||||
30 | Season of the Bitch | 5.11d | ||||
31 | ★ Freaky Styley | 5.11d | ||||
32 | ★ The Hidden | 5.12a | ||||
33 | Little Girl's Route | 5.10d | ||||
34 | Dope Smoking Moron | 5.11 | ||||
35 | The Den | 5.8 | ||||
36 | ★★★ Shockwave | 5.13b | ||||
37 | Diminshing Standard | 5.12 | ||||
38 | Hangover Heights | 5.10d | ||||
39 | Morality Check | 5.10 A0 | ||||
40 | Icons of Filth | 5.7 | ||||
41 | Earth First | 5.10 | ||||
42 | Dorn's Crack | 5.10c A0 | ||||
43 | Dirty Dancing | 5.11 |
1.1.12.3. Chapel Wall, Far Right 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Love Missile F1-11 | 5.10b | ||||
2 | ★ Under Siege | 5.11b | ||||
3 | ★ Resurrection | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★ New Testament | 5.10d | ||||
5 | Betrayal | 5.9 | ||||
6 | Bryan's Crack | 5.8 | ||||
7 | By Way of the Flake | 5.10c | ||||
8 | ★ Sixth Heaven | 5.10b |
1.1.12.4. Sentinel Rock 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flashback | 5.8 A3 VI | ||||
2 | Direct North Face | 5.12a V | ||||
3 | Gobi Wall | 5.9 A2 V | 900ft, 10 | |||
4 | Flying Buttress Direct | 5.9 A2 V | ||||
5 | In Cold Blood | 5.11b A3 V | ||||
6 | ★★ Chouinard-Herbert | 5.11c | 1400ft | |||
7 |
★★★ Steck-Salathe
A big day out including a descent which should be done in both daylight and dry conditions. Listed in "50 Classic Climbs of North America" with the majority of the 16 pitches involving wide crack climbing and chimneying Steck-Salathe will test your endurance, willpower as well as your wide crack and squeezing ability. The infamous 'the narrows' pitch still echos with the desperate cries of a many a climber and offers an excellent insight into the depths of the human condition. A double rack of cams with a single #4 and #5 should be sufficient for most parties. For those wishing to train for Steck-Salathe: "Get a garage door and unhook it, lay down on your driveway and have four friends lay the garage door on top of you. Now they each sit on a corner of the door and you try to wiggle out from the center to escape." -Karl Baba "To practice for the Steck-Salathé, crawl across asphalt parking lots in the summer, on your knees and elbows." -Dingus Milktoast | 5.10b | 1500ft, 16 | |||
8 | ★★ West Face | 5.12b A0 | ||||
9 | ★★ How the West Was Won | 5.12b |
1.1.12.5. Sentinel Creek 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unnamed
On far left | 5.9 | ||||
2 |
Unnamed 2
On far left | 5.10b | ||||
3 | ★★ Spiderman | 5.11c | ||||
4 | ★★ Vanishing Point | 5.10d | ||||
5 | ★ Fast as a Shark | 5.11 | ||||
6 | ★ Savage Amusement | 5.11b | ||||
7 | Rat's Tooth | 5.10a | ||||
8 | The Bay Bush | 5.6 | ||||
9 | Titled Mitten, Left | 5.9 | ||||
10 | ★ Titled Mitten, Right | 5.8 | ||||
11 | ★ The Hand Me Down | 5.10a | ||||
12 |
★★ Mental Block
FA: Jim Bridwell & Dale Bard, 1973 | 5.10c | 5 | |||
13 | The Sphinxter | 5.9 | ||||
14 |
★ Yami Shami
A fun little sport route with plenty of bolts and a high-dependent crux. Triple bolt belay is off to the left (past the tree with webbing) which makes cleaning while lowering difficult. | 5.11a | 50ft, 7 | |||
15 | Unagi | 5.10c | ||||
16 | ★★★ Hari-kiri | 5.10a | ||||
17 | ★★★ Ying-Yang | 5.10d | 110ft | |||
18 | Mantra | 5.10d | 1 | |||
19 | ★★★ Manana | 5.10d | 110ft | |||
20 | Wings of Maybe | 5.12a | ||||
21 | King Tut's Tomb | 5.10b | ||||
22 | ★ Into the Fire | 5.11b | ||||
23 | Kung Pao Chicken | 5.10b | ||||
24 | ★ The Sceptor | 5.11a | ||||
25 | Dead Souls | 5.11d | ||||
26 | ★ Lost and Found | 5.12c |
1.1.12.6. Pharaoh's Beard Area 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route | 5.8 | ||||
2 | ★★ Whisker | 5.11d | ||||
3 | ★ Pharaoh's Beard, Right | 5.10d | ||||
4 | Look Before You Leap | 5.11a | ||||
5 | ★ Buried Treasure | 5.11a A0 | ||||
6 | ★ Sheba | A4+ |
1.1.12.7. Lost Brother 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Realm of the Lizard King | 5.11c | ||||
2 |
Goliath
FA: Gabel & Toumey | 5.10 | 1500ft | |||
3 | Northwest Face Route | 5.10c | ||||
4 | The Last Resort Pinnacle, Left | 5.9 | ||||
5 | The Last Resort Pinnacle, Center | 5.10a | ||||
6 |
Birthday Rhymes
FA: Gabel & Toumey | 5.10 | 600ft | |||
7 |
Lazy Days
FA: Gabel & Toumey | 5.10 | 600ft |
1.1.12.8. Taft Point 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Journey to the East | 5.12b | ||||
2 | ★★ Dread and Freedom | 5.13a | ||||
3 | ★★★ Kundalini Express | 5.13a | ||||
4 | ★★ Notes from the Underground | 5.12 | ||||
5 | ★★ The Pointy Part | 5.12b | ||||
6 | ★ Jordi-Sattva | 5.10b |
1.1.12.9. B-1 Boulder 13 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.732332, -119.600214
description
Park at four-mile trail, this is the first to your left. It's huge.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unnamed 1
Climb the log to get to the descent ramp. | V0 | ||||||
2 |
Jungle Book
Start with high left hand sidepull crimp. Make a big move up and right to the left-facing flake. Continue straight up. | V6 | ||||||
3 |
No holds bard
Start on high, left-facing holds. Climb straight up following the white dike. | V7 | ||||||
4 |
Slapshot
Climb the seam from a stand-start. | V8 | ||||||
5 |
Flake Out
Start on a high crimp, climb up and right to an angled shelf and then top out straight up. | V7 | ||||||
6 |
The Abstrusion
Start with a left hand undercling and a right hand sidepull both at head height. Climb up and right. | V4 | ||||||
7 |
The Slopster
Start sitting in the boulder at the base. Climb up and slightly right through sloping jugs (stand start is V5). | V6 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ Unnamed 2
Start on high jug in the middle of the cave. Climb straight up. | V5 | ||||||
9 |
★★★ Sentinel Traverse
Start sitting at the left side of the face with opposing sidepulls. Traverse 25 ft. right to a drop-off on to a good jug. | V6 | ||||||
10 |
Project 1
Climb the Sentinel Traverse and then top out. | |||||||
11 |
Project 2
Climb the smoke-stained overhanging face. | |||||||
12 |
It Seams So
Start low with opposing pinches. Follow the seam to a mossy slab. Traverse right to finish up the arete. | V8 | ||||||
13 |
South Arete
Climb the arete from a high start off the log. | V1 |
1.1.12.10. Small Boulder behind B-1 Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.732003, -119.599966
description
Second one on the left, smaller than B-1.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Unnamed 1
Right facing corner. | V0- | ||||
2 |
★ Unnamed 2
Start on high crimp. Move to a jug. | V3 | ||||
3 |
★★★ Unnamed 3
Start on sloper and sidepull crimp. Climb straight up. | V0 | ||||
4 |
★★ Unnamed 4
Start on jugs at 6.5 ft right of the seam. Climb straight up, and traverse to finish as per Unnamed 2. | V0+ | ||||
5 |
★★ Unnamed 5
Start on jug at about 4 ft. Traverse left to join Unnamed 2. | V5 |
1.1.12.11. Midget Boulders 14 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.731134, -119.600184
description
These are the small boulders on the right of the four-mile trail after B-1 and the small one ahead of B-1.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Unnamed 1
Climb the prow from a high start. | V0- | ||||
2 |
★★★ Unnamed 2
Start on a jug and climb leftwards past a crimp. | V1 | ||||
3 |
★★★ Unnamed 3
Start on a jug and climb straight up. | V0- | ||||
4 |
★★★ Door Knocker Traverse
Start on Door Knocker and climb left onto Unnamed 2. | V3 | ||||
5 |
Door Knocker
Climb the arete from a sit start. | V0 | ||||
6 |
Joby Face
Climb the face left of a juggy shelf at 6 ft. | V0+ | ||||
7 |
Unnamed 4
Climb straight up from the right side of the juggy shelf. | V0- | ||||
8 |
Unnamed 5
Climb the slabby scoop. | V0- | ||||
9 |
Unnamed 6
Climb the face 5 ft right of a tree. Start on high underclings. | V0 | ||||
10 |
★★★ Mr. Pink Eyes
Jump start to a sloping jug above a sloper. Go straight up. | V0 | ||||
11 |
Unnamed 7
Start with a low sidepull and undercling. Climb straight up the arete. | V4 | ||||
12 |
Midget Traverse
Start high at the arete. Traverse the shelf and then the crack. Mantle 7 ft. right of a tree. | V3 | ||||
13 |
Unnamed 8
Climb the face just right of the arete. | V1 | ||||
14 |
Unnamed 9
Sit start with jugs 4 ft. left of the tree. Climb up and slightly right. | V3 |
1.1.13. Cloud's Rest Area 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.769928, -119.498906
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 |
My Favourite Things
Great beta here: https://www.summitpost.org/my-favorite-things/415315 And: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106673057/my-favorite-things FA: Hannah North, Tom Harper & Tom Malzbender, 2003 | 5.10a | 2700ft, 15 |
1.1.13.1. Cloud's Rest Approach 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Meet Mr. Nuehachii
Approach from West end of Tenaya Lake on Cloud's Rest Trail. Hike in for approx. 30 min. Just before the third wash is a 35-40' high slab with a seam running down the middle. This is it. No bolts. Can be bouldered, but not recommended. (I broke my ankle falling off it!) Take two ropes, some slings and biners to set up TR on top. Can easily walk on/off on either side. Well worth the effort. FA: Eamonn & Tara | 5.10c | 35ft |
1.1.14. Ribbon Falls 37 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.1.14.1. Nuts Only Cliff 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Catch-U | 5.11b | ||||
2 | W'allnuts | 5.10d |
1.1.14.2. Little Wing Area 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Scuz Ball | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Squeeze-n-Tease | 5.8 | ||||
3 | L.D. Getaway | 5.8 | ||||
4 | Andy Devine | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Machine Gun | |||||
6 | ★ He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You | 5.7 | ||||
7 | ★ Kryptonite | 5.12b | ||||
8 | ★ Gunks Revisited | 5.11c | ||||
9 | ★ Honor Thy Father | 5.10c | ||||
10 | ★ Leisure Time | 5.10b | ||||
11 | ★★ The Riddler | 5.10a | ||||
12 | ★★ Little Wing | 5.10d | ||||
13 | Dolly Dagger | 5.9 | ||||
14 | Building Blocks | 5.8 | ||||
15 | Angelina | 5.8 | ||||
16 | Little Thing | 5.11d | ||||
17 | Red House | 5.10a | ||||
18 | Too Much Paranoia | 5.10b |
1.1.14.3. Ribbon Falls Amphitheatre 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Aid climbing and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Golden Bough | 5.10a | ||||
2 |
★★ Gold Wall / Silent Line
Gold Wall is the name of the aid climb. Silent Line is the name of the free version. FA: Werner Braun, Rick Cashner & Layton Kor FFA: Dean Potter †, 2001 | 5.10 A3 V | 1000ft, 8 | |||
3 | West Portal - Fool's Gold | 5.10a | ||||
4 | West Portal - Thin Line | 5.11c | ||||
5 | West Portal - Straight In | 5.10a | ||||
6 | ★★ Ribbon Candy | 5.11c IV | ||||
7 | Hole in the Sky | 5.10b A3 VI | ||||
8 | Dyslexia | 5.10d A4 VI | ||||
9 | Keel Haul | 5.10 A3 VI | ||||
10 | Solar Power Arete | 5.10a A3+ VI | ||||
11 | Gold Ribbon | 5.10 A3 VI | ||||
12 | Chockstone Chimney | 5.9 | ||||
13 | The Lionheart | 5.10b | ||||
14 | Gold Leaf | 5.9 | ||||
15 | Nottingham | 5.10a | ||||
16 | ★ The Hourglass Left Side | 5.11a | ||||
17 | The Hourglass Right Side | 5.10a |
1.1.15. Three Brothers 92 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.736746, -119.613525
|
1.1.15.1. Eagle Creek Area 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.731114, -119.618864
1.1.15.1.1. Manure Pile Buttress 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.731022, -119.618913
approach
From the El cap picnic area, an easy trail heads east from the washrooms for 1km. This deposits you direct at the base of After Six and After Seven.
Descent: from the top flat plateau walk north walk north and scramble up to a bench that is 8' higher then the one you are on. Contour left on this bench and drop down into a gully to a dirt path about 10-15' down the gully. Turn right at a dirt path and head into the trees, then continue down through the forest. Do not descend lower into the gully then the dirt path or you will need to rap to get to the ground.
|
1.1.15.1.2. Commissioner Buttress 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.15.1.3. Upper 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.15.2. Lower Brother 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.735523, -119.612915
1.1.15.2.1. 4th Street Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.15.2.2. Absolutely Free Area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.735493, -119.612957
approach
From Camp 4, head west on the one-way Northside drive toward El Capitan. Park your car at the first pullout bay on the left hand side after Camp 4. Cross the road and look for the faint climber’s trail that zigzags 400 feet up to the base. This short approach wanders through downed trees and boulders. When you reach the cliff head left, or west, for “Positively 4th Street”. Heady right, and up, another few hunderte feet past dirty, low angle slabs until the gully that you are in makes a hard right. Walk left a few feet onto an exposed ledge, for “Absolutely Free”.
where to stay
Camp 4, Yosemite Lodge or at any campground in The Valley.
1.1.15.2.3. Michael's Ledge 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.1.15.3. Middle Brother 48 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.742581, -119.607548
1.1.15.3.1. Rixon's Pinnacle 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
1.1.15.3.2. The Folly 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
1.1.15.3.3. Camp 4 Wall 31 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.742611, -119.607570
approach
At the west end of Camp 4 behind the SAR tents, follow a shallow drainage uphill until it becomes a major drainage that leads all the way to the base of the cliff.
1.1.16. Tenaya Canyon 45 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Aid climbing and Alpine climbing
1.1.16.1. Basket Dome 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Basket Case | 5.11b | ||||
2 | Straight Jacket | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Scott-Child | 5.10a |
1.1.16.2. Mirror Lake Area 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mirror, Mirror, Left | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Mirror, Mirror, Right | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Mirror, Mirror, For Right | 5.10d | ||||
4 | Eric's Book | 5.9 | ||||
5 | Thin Man | 5.10c | ||||
6 | Groundhog | 5.11b | ||||
7 | Breathalizer | 5.10b | ||||
8 | ★ Precious Powder | 5.11a | ||||
9 | Diminishing Returns | 5.10c | ||||
10 | Werner's Crack | 5.8 | ||||
11 | The Prude | 5.9 | ||||
12 | Rurp Rape | 5.10c |
1.1.16.3. Apathy Buttress 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Silent Majority | 5.10b A1 | ||||
2 | Winterlewd | 5.10b | ||||
3 | Uppity Women | 5.10c | ||||
4 | Creeping Lethargy | 5.10d | ||||
5 | Neil Down | 5.11c | ||||
6 |
★ Water Babies
FA: Dimitri Barton--Ken Ariza | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★★ Back To The Slammer | 5.10b | ||||
8 | Apathy Buttress | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Destination Zero | 5.11a | ||||
10 |
Valley Syndrome
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.11c | ||||
11 |
Free Clinic
FA: Dimitri Barton | 5.11b | ||||
12 | Black Angus | 5.11 | ||||
13 |
Ken's Dream
FA: Dimitri Barton--Ken Ariza | 5.10a |
1.1.16.4. Mt Watkins 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hook, Line and Sinker | 5.10 A4 VI | ||||
2 | ★★ South Face Route | 5.9 A2 VI | 2500ft, 19 | |||
3 | Tenaya's Terror | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
4 | The Prism | 5.10 A3+ VI | ||||
5 | Bob Locke Memorial Buttress | 5.11 A4 VI | ||||
6 | Escape from Freedom | 5.11c A1 VI | ||||
7 | Golden Dawn | 5.10d |
1.1.16.5. YaSoo Dome 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | South Face | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★★★ The Chief | 5.11b A1 V |
1.1.16.6. East Quarter Dome 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pegasus | 5.12 V | ||||
2 | North Face | 5.9 A2+ V | ||||
3 | Route of All Evil | 5.9 A4 VI | ||||
4 | Nashville Skyline | 5.8 A3 V |
1.1.16.7. West Quarter Dome 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | North Face | 5.8 A3 V |
1.1.16.8. Above Mirror Lake 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Porcelain Pup | 5.10b III |
1.1.16.9. Silver Platter 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gravity's Rainbow | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Silver Platter | 5.10c |
1.1.17. Leaning Tower 42 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Aid climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.710750, -119.646431
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7 |
Everything is Karate
An unfinished project of Dean Potter †. Recently brought to the public by Chris Sharma. | 5.14 C - D |
1.1.17.1. Left Side 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Yellow Corner (Turning Yellow) | 5.12a IV |
1.1.17.2. West Face 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.712844, -119.647464
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Disco Strangler | 5.10 A4 V | ||||
2 | Jesus Built My Hotrod | 5.7 A4 V | 1200ft, 9 | |||
3 |
★★★ West Face
FA: Warren Harding, Al MacDonald, Glen Denny (with help from Les Wilson, Chris Westphal & George Whitmore), 1961 | {AU} YDS:5.7 AID:A3 COM:V | 1000ft, 11 | |||
4 |
★★ Westie Face
The Westie Face is one of the best mostly-free routes anywhere. The movement is stellar, the protection just reasonable enough, the rock immaculate, and the position is simply brilliant. Additionally the fact that it's relatively short and low commitment makes it easier to work than many of the other routes in the area. That being said it's quite sustained and only has one pitch that isn't 5.12 or harder. Lastly, many of the pitches are a little heady to climb. This can be more or less true depending on the condition of the fixed gear. See the aid route description for approach and traditional descent beta. FA: Leo Houlding & Jason Pickles | 5.13- R | 980ft, 8 | |||
5 |
★★ Wet Denim Daydream
FA: Darrell Hatton & Angus Thuermer, 1977 | 5.6 A3 | 1000ft, 10 | |||
6 |
Wet Lycra Nightmare
This is the free variation to "Wet Denim Daydream". FFA: Todd Skinner & Jim Hewett, 2004 | 5.13d | 9 | |||
7 | ★★★ Heading for Oblivion | 5.10 A4+ VI | 980ft | |||
8 | Roulette | A5 VI |
1.1.17.3. B.O.L.T. Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Love Without Anger | 5.8 A3 V | ||||
2 | Life on The Dark Side | 5.6 A3 IV |
1.1.17.4. Base 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Princess | 5.9 | ||||
2 | The Joker | 5.10b | ||||
3 | ★★ The Thief | 5.10d | ||||
4 | ★ Megaforce | 5.11a | ||||
5 | Barefoot Servants | 5.10c | ||||
6 | The Amoeba, Left | 5.8 | ||||
7 | The Amoeba, Right | 5.11c | ||||
8 | ★★ Rycrisp | 5.7 | ||||
9 | Beat the Clock | 5.10c | ||||
10 | The Triscuit | 5.9 | ||||
11 | ★★ Drop-out | 5.10a | ||||
12 | The Chosen Few | 5.9 | ||||
13 | Machine Head | 5.11c | ||||
14 | The Cracker, Right | 5.7 |
1.1.17.5. FiFi Buttress, West Face 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sunset Strip | 5.11a | ||||
2 | Vortex | 5.12 | ||||
3 | Colony of Slippermen | 5.11+ A1 | ||||
4 | ★★ The Warbler | 5.11d | ||||
5 |
★★ Center Of The Universe
Just left and around the corner from Voyager. 1 bolt and first anchors visible from base. First 7 pitches are the money and most parties rap from here. Brilliant, sustained 10+, 11- climbing in varied styles. | 5.11a | 1000ft, 13 | |||
6 |
★★★ Voyager
Bolted rap anchors, rap route with 70m rope | 5.11c | 7, 4 | |||
7 | Make it So | 5.8 A4 | ||||
8 | Final Frontier | 5.13- | ||||
9 | ★★★ Romulan Warbird | 5.12c | ||||
10 |
The Dream Team
FA: Cedar Wright & Lucho Rivera | 5.13a | 10 |
1.1.17.6. The Widow's Tears Area 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Alpine climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Local Motion | 5.11d A1 | ||||
2 | ★★ Windfall | 5.11a | ||||
3 | Breezin' | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★★ Windjammer | 5.10c | ||||
5 | ★ Castaways | 5.10c | ||||
6 | Wind Chill | 5.11a V |
1.1.18. Camp 4 130 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.742189, -119.604046
1.1.18.1. Little Columbia Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.741647, -119.603711
description
'Big Columbia Boulder' 's less imposing counterpart.
approach
If coming from Camp 4 parking lot, this is the boulder behind the iconic Big Columbia Boulder (the one with the lighting bolt in chalk).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Unnamed Face 1 on Little Columbia
Climb the left side of the arete above a flake at the base. | V0 | ||||||
2 |
★ All Star Movie Mantel
Mantel the high protruding point. | V1 | 7ft | |||||
3 |
★ Unnamed Scoop on Little Columbia
Climb straight up from slopey jugs. | V0- | ||||||
4 |
Unnamed Ramp on Little Columbia
Climb the left angling ramp. | V0- | ||||||
5 |
★ Unnamed Arete on Little Columbia
Climb the blunt arete starting with a left hand crimp. | V0 | ||||||
6 |
Unnamed Face 2 on Little Columbia
Go up edges on the back face. A good downclimb. | V0- | ||||||
7 |
Unnamed Mantel on Little Columbia
Start on slopers. | V1 | ||||||
|
1.1.18.2. Big Columbia Boulder 12 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.741720, -119.603536
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ After Midnight
FFA: Jerry Moffatt, 1993 | V10 | 25ft | |||||
2 |
★★★ Midnight Lightning
Midnight Lightning is a problem on the Columbia Boulder in Camp 4 of Yosemite National Park. It has been described as the world's most famous bouldering problem.The route had been easily identified by a chalk lightning bolt drawn by John Bachar in 1978 while attempting the problem with John Yablonski and Ron Kauk. In May 2013, the iconic chalk lightning bolt was scrubbed off the face of the boulder. The bolt was re-drawn in the same location a few days later. FFA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | V8 | 25ft | |||||
3 |
★★ Kauk Start
FFA: Ron Kauk | V9 | 25ft | |||||
4 |
★★★ Moffatt Start
FFA: Jerry Moffatt | V10 | 25ft | |||||
5 | ★ Midnight Cowboy | V9 | 20ft | |||||
6 | The Robbin's Problem | V3 | 20ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Bates Problem
FFA: Barry Bates | V4 | 20ft | |||||
8 |
Float Like a Butterfly, Sting Like a Bee
FFA: Randy Puro, 2011 | |||||||
9 |
★★ Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass
FFA: Greg Loh | V9 | ||||||
10 | Steck Overhang | V0 | ||||||
11 |
★★ End of the Day Problem
Sit start on left leaning arete facing 'Little Columbia'. Go left. | V5 | ||||||
12 |
Unnamed Slab
Climb the slab right of 'End of the Day Problem' on polished feet. | V0 |
1.1.18.3. Titanic Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Unnamed
Climb the line just right of the tree from a start with head-height holds. | V3 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Battle of the Bulge | V6 | 12ft | |||
3 |
★★ The Titanic
A short, sweet and classic Yosemite boulder problem. | V5 | 13ft | |||
4 | The Bulge Traverse | V7 |
1.1.18.4. Goodrich Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Tendons Give Traverse | V4 | ||||
2 | ★ Pinch Arête | V1 | ||||
3 |
★★★ Marco's Traverse
Start on the big jug in the boulder next to the Wine Boulder and traverse left to mantel on edges. | V1 | ||||
4 | 38 | V1 | ||||
5 | 39 | VB | ||||
6 | 41 | VB |
1.1.18.5. Pratt Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pablo's Piccolo | V6 | ||||
2 | Elegant Gypsy | V7 | ||||
3 | Armadillo | V3 | ||||
4 | Pratt Face | V1 | ||||
5 | 13 | VB |
1.1.18.6. Wine Boulders 31 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.742311, -119.604381
approach
Go up the hill and slightly left from 'Midnight Lightning'
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 57 | VB |
1.1.18.6.1. Blue Suede Shoes Boulder 9 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
|
1.1.18.6.2. Cocaine Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
|
1.1.18.6.3. Wine Boulder 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
A huge boulder
approach
Go up the hill and slightly left from 'Midnight Lightning'
1.1.18.6.4. Wine Warmup Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.1.18.6.5. Shiver Me Timbers Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.1.18.6.6. Pinball & Hammerhead Boulders 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.1.18.7. Blockhead 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blockhead | V4 | ||||
2 | ★ Pratt Mantle | V0 |
1.1.18.8. Falls Trail Boulders 13 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.742817, -119.603349
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ King Cobra
FA: Adam Wainwright, 1993 | V8 | 20ft | |||
2 | ★★★ Ament Arête | V3 | 10ft | |||
3 | ★★★ Ament Arête, Sit Start | V6 | 10ft | |||
4 |
★★★ Bachar Cracker
FFA: John Bachar | V4 | ||||
5 |
★★ Kauk Slab
FFA: Ron Kauk | V7 | 20ft | |||
6 | ★★★ Chapman Overhang | V1 | ||||
7 | Swamp Thing | V5 | ||||
8 |
★★ The Jimi Hendrix Experience
Horizontal crack above Bachar Cracker. Traverse L to R. | V0 | 10ft | |||
9 |
★★★ Bear-Hug Mantle
Sit start. | V4 | 7ft | |||
10 | ★★★ Bruce Lee | V8 | 20ft | |||
11 | ★★ Torque Spinner | V8 | 8ft | |||
12 | 26 | V1 | ||||
13 | 27 | V2 |
1.1.18.9. Thriller Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Thriller
FFA: Ron Kauk, 1984 FFA: Frederic Nicole, 1993 | V9 | ||||
2 |
★★★ The Force / The Farce
FFA: Jerry Moffatt, 1991 | V9 |
1.1.18.10. Kor Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.742869, -119.602756
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Kor Problem
FA: Layton Kor | V3 | 15ft |
1.1.18.11. Energy Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 41 | V0 | ||||
2 | 56 | VB | ||||
3 | 58 | VB | ||||
4 | 60 | VB | ||||
5 | Anvil Mantle | V0 |
1.1.18.12. The Glass Pyramid 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.742538, -119.602650
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Zschiesche Problem | V3 | ||||||
2 | Smear Out | V4 | ||||||
3 |
★★★ The Glass Pyramid Face
Climb the slab directly up to the apex of the pyramid. | V1 | ||||||
4 |
★★ The Glass Pyramid Arete
Smear up the arete right of 'The Glass Pyramid Face' | V0 | ||||||
5 |
Unnamed Arete on Glass Pyramid
The arete right of 'The Glass Pyramid Arete'. Start on the flake and go up. | V0 | ||||||
6 |
★ Unnamed Glass Pyramid Traverse
Start on the flake and traverse right and up | V2 | ||||||
7 |
The Glass Pyramid Downclimb
The easiest way off. | V0 | ||||||
8 |
Unnamed Glass Pyramid Slab
Unnamed easy slab between 'The Glass Pyramid Downclimb' and 'The Zschiesche Problem'. | VB |
1.1.18.13. Bachar Cracker Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.743153, -119.603069
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Largo Lunge | V0- | 15ft | |||
2 | The Jimi Hendrix Experience | V0 | ||||
3 | Bachar Cracker Stand | V0 | ||||
4 |
★★ Bachar Cracker
FA: John Bachar | V4 | ||||
5 | #28 Unnamed Traverse | V1 | ||||
6 | ★ #29 Unnamed Shelves | V2 |
1.1.18.14. Shrink Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
approach
Next to 'The Glass Pyramid' boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ The Shrink | V3 | 10ft |
1.1.18.15. Manual Labor Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
approach
In the talus above Camp 4.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Manual Labor
FFA: Will Strickland, 2007 | V0+ | 11ft |
1.1.18.16. Rebirthing Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Rebirthing
FFA: Brian Warshow, Andres Zeegers & Brian Kay, 1989 | V3 |
1.1.18.17. Bear Hug 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | #32 Unnamed Face | V1 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Bear Hug Mantel | V4 | ||||
3 |
★★ Lyn's Awesome Arete
FA: Lyn Barraza, 2006 | V3 | ||||
4 | Back to School | V5 | ||||
5 |
★★ Glass House
FA: Lyn Barraza, 2006 | V3 | ||||
6 | All Hands on Deck | V8 |
1.1.18.18. Ament Arete Boulder 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
summary
Camp 4 Center
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed Traverse | V0 | ||||
2 | Ament Arete | V4 | ||||
3 | Ament Arete Sit | V6 | ||||
4 | Unnamed Face | V0 | ||||
5 | Unnamed Arete | VB | ||||
6 | Kauk Slab | V8 | ||||
7 | Unnamed Crack | VB | ||||
8 | Unnamed Crack | VB | ||||
9 | Hug a Rock | V1 | ||||
10 | Mark's Mantel | V1 | ||||
11 | Torque Spanner | V8 | ||||
12 | Anvil Mantel | V0 | ||||
13 | Chapman Overhang | V1 |
1.1.19. Presidential Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.724512, -119.606416
description
Great beginner boulder with an easy approach. Because it is a little out of the main camps it may not be as busy.
approach
Easy approach (5-10 mins) Park at the double-sided paved car park 1 mile after the junction of south side drive and El Cap bridge road. Walk east (towards the village) on the road (about 200 feet) and then up into a clearing on the right to a horse trail just before the road curves left. Continue up from two large boulders flanking the trail. Boulder is barely visible from the trail.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Unnamed Mantel
The first route as you approach the boulder from the trail. There is an obvious tongue of rock. Mantle this and go up. | V0 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Presidential Traverse
Make your way along the feature in either direction. Lots of different options to change the difficulty. | V0 | 10ft | |||||
3 |
★★ The Presidential
Choose your own adventure! Pick any line up with massive feature. | VB | 13ft | |||||
4 | Unnamed Undercling Problem | V1 | ||||||
5 |
Unnamed Slab
At the right end of 'The Presidential Traverse', there is a small triangular overhang and a slab. Go up the slab. | VB | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Cave Direct
Jump start to the huge jug. Go up. | V4 | ||||||
7 |
Cave Direct Low
Start in the cave on good edges below and right of 'Cave Direct'. | V9 |
1.1.20. Housekeeping area 61 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.739755, -119.579255
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Darth Maul | V10 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Flatline | V8 | ||||
3 | ★★ Heart Attack | V6 | ||||
4 | ★★ Guerneys Gone WIld | V4 | ||||
5 | ★★ Unnamed 1 | V1 | ||||
6 | Unnamed 2 | V1 | ||||
7 | Project | |||||
8 | ★★ Athletes Die Young | V5 | ||||
9 | ★★ Conan | V9 | ||||
10 | ★ Cashner-u-ap | V4 | ||||
11 | ★★ The Shield | V11 |
1.1.20.1. Athletes Die Young boulders 0 routes in Boulder
1.1.20.2. LeConte Boulder 18 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
description
The large obvious boulder opposite the LeConte memorial building
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Descent Route | V0 | ||||||
2 |
Kor Practice Aid Ladder
This is the bolt ladder on the steep side of the LeConte Boulder (closest to the building). Bolt ladder leads up and over the steep roof to chain anchors. A good place to practice steep aid climbing. | A1 | 40ft, 8 | |||||
3 | Project | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
The Hooker
This is a short practice aid climb on the back side (away from the road) of the LeConte Boulder. There is a rivet and four bolts, and some hook moves can be made near the top (above the bolts). Chain anchors | A1 | 40ft, 4 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Sasquach | |||||||
6 | ★★ Piranha | V9 | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Amazon Face | V4 | ||||||
8 | ★ Unnamed 1 | V0 | ||||||
9 | ★ Unnamed 2 | V0+ | ||||||
10 | ★ Unnamed 3 | V3 | ||||||
11 | ★★ Shuttle Face | V2 | ||||||
12 | ★★ Fine Line | V7 | ||||||
13 | ★★ Rabbit Habit | V8 | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Narcissus | V11 | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Goldmund | V10 | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Prowess | V7 | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Torque | V7 | ||||||
18 | Project 2 |
1.1.20.3. Pathway Boulders 16 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Unnamed 1 | V0+ | ||||
2 | ★ Macro's Edge | V0+ | ||||
3 | ★★ People Pleaser Face | V0 | ||||
4 | ★ Unnamed 2 | V0- | ||||
5 | ★ Unnamed 3 | V0 | ||||
6 | ★★ Unnamed 4 | V4 | ||||
7 | ★★ Cranium Cruncher | V3 | ||||
8 | ★ Unnamed 5 | V0- | ||||
9 | ★ Unnamed 6 | V4 | ||||
10 | ★★ Unnamed 7 | V0- | ||||
11 | ★ Unnamed 8 | V0 | ||||
12 | ★ Unnamed 9 | V0- | ||||
13 | ★ Unnamed 10 | V0 | ||||
14 | Unnamed 11 | V0- | ||||
15 | Project 1 | |||||
16 | Project 2 |
1.1.20.4. The Hidden Loaf 5 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Unnamed 1 | V0 | ||||
2 | ★ Unnamed 2 | V0 | ||||
3 | Collins Direct | V8 | ||||
4 | ★ Unnamed 3 | |||||
5 | ★ Unnamed 4 | V0 |
1.1.20.5. The Housekeeping Boulder 11 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Knuckle Fucker | V4 | ||||
2 | ★★ Trail Traffic | V0 | ||||
3 | ★ Kauk's Crack | V5 | ||||
4 | ★ Unnamed 1 | V3 | ||||
5 | ★★ Unnamed 2 | V0 | ||||
6 | ★★ Unnamed 3 | V0- | ||||
7 | ★★ Unnamed 4 | V0 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Housekeeping Face | V2 | ||||
9 | ★★ Purple Barrel | V8 | ||||
10 | ★★ Friction Slab | V0+ | ||||
11 | ★★★ The Big Moe | V3 |
1.1.21. Curry Village 48 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.736834, -119.575795
description
There is a great collection of boulders spread throughout the Curry Village area. Because it gets more shade, Curry Village is usually one of the cooler parts to climb. Lots of easies and moderates.
approach
Park in any one of the Curry Village parking lots. The boulders are behind the buildings in the woods, spread throughout different areas.
1.1.21.1. The Angler Boulder 12 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Just before arriving to the knife edge that is the iconic Kevin's Traverse Boulder is this slabby boulder with a slopey side and crimpy backside.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unnamed 1
Climb the face in a variety of spots. | V0- | ||||
2 |
Unnamed 2
Start with the right-facing slot in the seam at 6ft. climb up and right. | V1 | ||||
3 |
Unnamed 3
Climb straight up on edges 3ft right of the tree. | V0 | ||||
4 |
★★★ Unnamed 4
Start on head-height crimps 7ft right of the tree. Climb straight up. | V2 | ||||
5 |
★★ Unnamed 5
Start on Unnamed 4. Traverse right a few feet and then top out. | V2 | ||||
6 |
Unnamed 6
Sit start with crimps in the shallow corner at the arete. Climb to the lip and then traverse all the way to finish on the Angler. | V6 | ||||
7 |
★★ Unnamed Mantel
Pull a mantle starting on the lip traverse. | V2 | ||||
8 |
★★★ The Angler
Start sitting with diagonal crimps. Climb left to a sloper and a horn. Finish straight up. | V3 | ||||
9 |
Project
Climb up the faint arete via sharp crimps. | |||||
10 |
Unnamed 8
Start on low slopers and climb left to a dihedral finish. | V3 | ||||
11 |
Unnamed 9
Jump start to fin and top out. | V1 | ||||
12 |
Unnamed 10
Mantle into the scoop and climb up. | V0- |
1.1.21.2. Kevin's Traverse Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
A perfect edge. You can't miss it.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Unnamed 1
Climb on low edges to mantle. | V3 | ||||
2 |
★★★ Unnamed 2
Start on Unnamed 1 and finish on Kevin's Traverse. | V3 | ||||
3 |
★★★ Kevin's Traverse
Start on the lowest part of the rail. Traverse right using the low boulder to a finish at the apex of the boulder to the right. | V0 | ||||
4 |
Project
Start low with large squeeze. Climb straight up. | |||||
5 |
Unnamed 3
Climb the left-leaning arete to a finish just left of the apex. | V2 | ||||
6 |
Unnamed 4
Sit start with opposing edges. Climb right on the slopey angled shelf. | V4 | ||||
7 |
The first glasses
Sit start on the left side of the bulge with a right hand crimp and a left hand sidepull. Make a move right and then bear hug your way to the prow. | V8 |
1.1.21.3. The Zorro Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Walk beyond Kevin's traverse boulder until you see about 75m ahead a boulder with a medium bulge on its right hand side. This is the Zorro Boulder.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Unnamed 1
Climb the rail just right of the tree from a high start. | V0- | ||||
2 |
Project 1
Climb straight up the face from slopers. | |||||
3 |
★★★ Zorro
Start on a shoulder height sloper. Go right to the flake and then make a big move straight up (V2 from a high start from the flake). | V4 | ||||
4 |
Unnamed 2
Start with a left hand undercling and a right hand pinch. Climb straight up just left of the tree. | V5 | ||||
5 |
Unnamed 3
Climb the flakes just right of the tree. | V0 | ||||
6 | Project 2 |
1.1.21.4. Circuit Breaker 1 route in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Circuit breaker | V2 |
1.1.21.5. Bathroom Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | #17 Unnamed Face | V2 | ||||
2 | #18 Unnamed Face | V3 | ||||
3 | ★★ #19 Unnamed face | V3 | ||||
4 | ★★ #20 Unnamed Flake | V2 | ||||
5 |
★ Multiple Variations
Multiple ways up the low backside of boulder | VB | ||||
6 | ★ #22 Unnamed Arete | V0 |
1.1.21.6. Joe's Garage Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Curry West
approach
Near Kevin's Traverse
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed Slab | V0 | ||||
2 | Joe's Garage | V5 | ||||
3 |
★★★ The Mechanic
Sit-start with a right hand sloper and a left hand under the roof. Climb left to top out. | V6 |
1.1.21.7. New Deli Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Curry West
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed Slab | VB | ||||
2 | Unnamed Arete | V1 | ||||
3 | Eliminate Arete | V5 | ||||
4 | ★★ New Delhi Line | V1 | ||||
5 | New Delhi Freight Train | |||||
6 | Unnamed Arete | V0 |
1.1.21.8. Flapping Shoe Boulders 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Curry East
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mantel Variations | V0 | ||||
2 | Flapping Shoe | V6 | ||||
3 | Fine Building Face | V3 | ||||
4 | Power of Attorney | V10 | ||||
5 | Unnamed Prow | V5 | ||||
6 | ★★ Cabin Crusher | V3 | ||||
7 | Tent Crusher | VB |
1.1.22. Dewey Point 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.704751, -119.651496
approach
Dewey Point is at 2,200 metres and is a 12.5km round-trip hike out from Glacier Point Road.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
West Buttress Direct
FA: Jason Torlano & Josh Helling, 31 Jul 2019 | 5.10a A2 | 6 | |||
2 |
Dewey Point Direct
FA: Jason Torlano & Mike Poisson, 7 Aug 2019 | 5.10c A1 | 9 |
1.1.23. Ahwahnee Area 28 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 37.748057, -119.576347
approach
Along the trail across the road from the Ahwahnee Hotel
1.1.23.1. Ahwahnee Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ahwahnee Face
Climb slabby face from under clings. Stay left of the arete. | V2 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Unnamed Slab right of Ahwahnee Face
Climb the slab right of Ahwahnee Face. | V0 |
1.1.23.2. Ahwahnee Fin 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unnamed Mantle
The mantle that ends 'Ahwahnee Fin'. | VB | ||||
2 |
★★★ Ahwahnee Fin
Sit start at the right end of the fin. Traverse the lip around to the triangular ledge. Mantle to finish. | V3 |
1.1.23.3. Soto Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Soto Slab | V0 |
1.1.23.4. Cold Boulders 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed Cold Boulders Face | V0 | ||||||
2 | Mellow Yellow | V0 | ||||||
3 | #13 Unnamed Arete | VB | ||||||
4 | Training Bra | V4 | ||||||
5 | The Fridge | V5 |
1.1.23.5. Gorilla Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Boulder just slightly off the trail.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dead Precedence | V5 | ||||||
2 | Dead Precedence Sit | V6 | ||||||
3 | Go Go Gorilla | V4 |
1.1.23.6. 2x2 Boulders 4 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unnamed Left Face
On the face left of 2x2, stand start to climb up to V and top out. | V0 | ||||||
2 |
2x2
The arete FA: Paul Barraza | V5 | ||||||
3 | 2x4 | V4 | ||||||
4 |
4x4
Low start to '2x4' | V8 |
1.1.23.7. Atlas 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Atlas
FA: Greg Loh, 2001 | V5 | 10ft |
1.1.23.8. No Fur 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Liceberg | V7 | 13ft | |||
2 | ★ Iceberg | V4 | 13ft | |||
3 | No Fur / Munch n' Live | V3 | 13ft | |||
4 | ★★ #37 Unnamed Arete | V0 | 16ft |
1.1.23.9. Warm Up 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | #38 Unnamed Face | V3 | 10ft | |||
2 | Wristy Business | V8 | ||||
3 | ★ #40 Unnamed Bulge | V2 | ||||
4 | ★★ Warm Up Arete | V0 | ||||
5 | ★★ #42 Unnamed Traverse | V3 | ||||
6 | Myles Traverse | V8 |
1.2. Tamarack Flat Boulders 0 routes in Field
summary
A pleasant and reasonably concentrated series of good boulders along the road to and within the Tamarack Flat Campground.
where to stay
Camping is available at the Tamarack Flat Campground. Bookings required.
1.3. Tuolumne Meadows 958 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.854758, -119.395739
1.3.1. Olmstead Area 50 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.813224, -119.496476
1.3.1.1. Crane Flat Ranger Station 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pumper | 5.10d |
1.3.1.2. Coyote Rocks 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Acme Crack | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Pleasant View Arete | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Battlescar Galactipus | 5.9 | ||||
4 | Upper Wall from Notch | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Buckets of Blood | 5.8 | ||||
6 | Cattlestar Faticus | 5.10b |
1.3.1.3. Roadrunner Rock 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cuckoo | 5.6 | ||||
2 | Beep-Beep | 5.6 | ||||
3 | Desert Highway | 5.9 | ||||
4 | ★★ Roadkill | 5.9 | ||||
5 | ★ Roadrunner | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★★ Smilling at Wilee | 5.10a |
1.3.1.4. De Gaulle's Nose 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Overhang Over | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Back to the Bar | 5.8 | ||||
3 | ★ Body Language | 5.11b | ||||
4 | Point of No Return | 5.10b |
1.3.1.5. Osprey Overhang 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Regular Route | 5.7 | ||||
2 | ★★ Ornithology | 5.11d | ||||
3 | ★ The Cage | 5.11b |
1.3.1.6. Olmstead Canyon 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Black Like Me | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Just What The Doctor Ordered | 5.11d | ||||
3 | Solstice | 5.11c | ||||
4 | ★ Creature from the Black Lagoon | 5.10c | ||||
5 | Grease Monkey | 5.8 | ||||
6 | Age of Darkness | 5.11a | ||||
7 | Lock of Ages | 5.10c | ||||
8 | ★ Double Feature | 5.11d | ||||
9 | Pressure Vessel | 5.10c | ||||
10 | ★ Hot Box | 5.11d | ||||
11 | ★ Air-Cooled Unit | 5.11a | ||||
12 | ★ Easy Monkey | 5.11c | ||||
13 | Duoich Mark | 5.9 | ||||
14 | Reanimator | 5.12a | ||||
15 | ★ Short Change | 5.10a | ||||
16 | ★★★ Lord Caffeine | 5.10d | 75ft | |||
17 | Ivory Tower Left | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
18 | ★★ Ivory Tower Center | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
19 | Ivory Tower Body-Double | 5.12a | ||||
20 | Miss Apprehension | 5.10a | ||||
21 | Missile Toe | 5.10a | ||||
22 | Talk Dirty To Me | 5.9 | ||||
23 | ★★ Enemy Within | 5.10b | ||||
24 | ★ The Thrill Is Gone | 5.10d | ||||
25 | The Stanley Edge | 5.10c | ||||
26 | ★ The Chamber | 5.7 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Tideline | 5.11a | ||||
28 | Live Wire | 5.11b | ||||
29 |
★★★ Broken Arrow
FA: Ron Kauk | 5.14a | 69ft |
1.3.1.7. Olmstead Point 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Lord of the Apes | 5.12a |
1.3.2. Polly Dome 182 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.847025, -119.467440
1.3.2.1. Stately Pleasure Dome 53 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.836245, -119.459272
1.3.2.1.1. South Face 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.835941, -119.459663
|
1.3.2.1.2. East Face 28 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.837689, -119.457303
1.3.2.2. Harlequin Dome 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Trilogy | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Harlot | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★★ Hoodwink | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★★ Rock Lobster | 5.10d | ||||
5 | ★ The Sting | 5.10b | ||||
6 | No Rock Nazis | 5.11b | ||||
7 | ★★★ By Hook or by Crook | 5.11b | ||||
8 | ★ Heat Sensitive | 5.12b | ||||
9 | Sausalito Archie's Overhang | 5.11a | ||||
10 | ★ Third World | 5.11b | ||||
11 | The Whore That Ate Chicago | 5.9 | ||||
12 | ★ Chinese Handcuffs | 5.10d |
1.3.2.3. The Shark 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Vicious Thing | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Flipper | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★ Curve Like Her | 5.9 | ||||
4 | ★ Corn Hole | 5.11c | ||||
5 | Bushes and Buckets | 5.11a |
1.3.2.4. Guppie Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gimme Some Slack | 5.10d | ||||
2 | ★ Panning for Nuggets | 5.11b | ||||
3 | Pokin' the Pup | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★ Achilles Last Stand | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Fairies Wear Boots | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Astrovan | 5.10a |
1.3.2.5. Mountaineer's Dome 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Undisputed Truth | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Thin Air | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Namche Bazzar | 5.9 | ||||
4 | Golden Years | 5.12a | ||||
5 | Tourist Trap | 5.10d | ||||
6 | ★ Faux Pass | 5.9 | ||||
7 | ★ Pippin | 5.9 | ||||
8 | ★★ Paiste Formula | 5.11c | ||||
9 | ★ Groundout | 5.11d | ||||
10 | ★ Double Eagle | 5.11b | ||||
11 | ★ Paris Is Burning | 5.11b | ||||
12 | ★ Go for the Gold | 5.11b | ||||
13 | ★ Realm of the Absurd | 5.11d | ||||
14 | ★ Happy Hour | 5.10b | ||||
15 | Dirty Dream | 5.11b | ||||
16 | ★ Vice Gripped | 5.10c | ||||
17 | ★ How Does It Feel? | 5.11a | ||||
18 | ★★ American Wet Dream | 5.10b | ||||
19 | American Wet Dike | 5.10b | ||||
20 | Bastard from the Bush | 5.11a | ||||
21 | Crag Witch | 5.10 |
1.3.2.6. Circle A Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Levy's Lament | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Rodeo Revolution | 5.7 | ||||
3 | Joe Mamba | 5.9 | ||||
4 | ★ Apex Predator | 5.11b | ||||
5 | Delta Squeeze | 5.8 | ||||
6 | Lieback Detector | 5.9 | ||||
7 | Sunny Delight | 5.8 |
1.3.2.7. The Bunny Slopes 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cool Meditation | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Walkman | 5.6 | ||||
3 | Hit Or Miss | 5.8 | ||||
4 | ★ Black Uhuru | 5.6 | ||||
5 | ★ Wild in the Streaks | 5.7 | 160ft | |||
6 | ★ Black Diamond | 5.9 | ||||
7 |
★ Hot Crossed Buns
A good introductory route for Tuolumne. Anchors are hard to spot. Trend right after 2nd horizontal break. | 5.6 | 150ft | |||
8 | ★★ Biscuit and Gravy | 5.8 | 150ft | |||
9 | Raindance | 5.7 | ||||
10 | ★ Mere Image | 5.7 | ||||
11 | Solo | 5.7 |
1.3.2.8. The Block Area 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Don't Exchange Bodily Fluids | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Drafted | 5.9 | ||||
3 | ★ Public Enemy | 5.11d | ||||
4 | Hammered | 5.10c | ||||
5 | The Block, Left | 5.9 | ||||
6 | The Block, Center | 5.11a | ||||
7 | The Block, Right | 5.8 | ||||
8 | Can't Say | 5.10c | ||||
9 | Grass Roots | 5.10c | ||||
10 | ★★ Push-Push | 5.11a | ||||
11 | ★ Fuel Rod | 5.10b | ||||
12 | ★★★ High Heels | 5.12b |
1.3.2.9. Phobos/Deimos Cliff 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.844151, -119.450943
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Transformer | 5.10d | ||||
2 | ★ Five-Volt Zener | 5.10+ | ||||
3 | Universal Corner | 5.11 | ||||
4 | ★ Engine in Distress | 5.12b | ||||
5 | ★★★ Phobos | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★★★ Blues Riff | 5.11c | ||||
7 | ★★★ Gold Finger | 5.12a | ||||
8 | ★ The Cooler | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Jungle Book | 5.10a | ||||
10 | Hobbitation | 5.9 | ||||
11 | ★ Devil Dog | 5.12a | ||||
12 | Compared to What | 5.11a | ||||
13 | ★★★ Deimos | 5.9 |
1.3.2.10. The Arena 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Double Take | 5.10d | ||||
2 | ★ Roadkill | 5.11c | ||||
3 | ★ Ugly Arete | 5.12a | ||||
4 | Carcass | 5.12b | ||||
5 | ★★ Lazer Blade | 5.12d | ||||
6 | ★★ Quick Release | 5.12b | ||||
7 | ★★ Love Supreme | 5.13a |
1.3.2.11. Low Profile Dome 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.858369, -119.440235
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gold Standard | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Pepe Le Peu | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Tom Tom | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★ Hurricane Betsy | 5.11d | ||||
5 | Bachar Solo | 5.9 | ||||
6 | Motzah Balls | 5.8 | ||||
7 | Lotsa Balls | 5.8 | ||||
8 | Luke Skywalker | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Ages Apart | 5.9 | ||||
10 | ★ Latin Lady | 5.10a | ||||
11 |
R2D2
FA: Greg Barnes & John Hovell, 2006 | 5.8 R | 180ft | |||
12 |
★ Black Widow
FA: Alan Bartlett & Bruce Bossman, 1980 | 5.9 R | 200ft, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Get Sick | 5.11a X | 200ft, 2 | |||
14 | Steep Thrills | 5.11c | ||||
15 | Family Affair | 5.9 | ||||
16 |
★★ Golfer's Route
Runout knob climbing. Links with a 60m rope. Climb this to set up topropes for the routes to the right, but be careful on the 5th class traverse to those anchors. Pro to 2". A tricam or purple linkcam works especially well in a pocket before the last runout on P2. FFA: Don Reid & Mike Corbett, 1979 | 5.7 R | 180ft, 2, 5 | |||
17 |
★★ Darth Vader's Revenge
Pro to 1". FFA: Chris Falkenstein & Herb Davis, 1978 | 5.10a | 180ft, 2, 10 | |||
18 | ★★ Shit Hooks | 5.10b | 190ft | |||
19 | ★ Angel Eyes | 5.12a | ||||
20 | ★★ Memo from Loyd | 5.10d | ||||
21 |
★★ Orange Man
Pro to 1.5". FA: unknown | 5.10c | 190ft, 7 |
1.3.2.12. Murphy Creek 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.842636, -119.464032
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sometimes a Great Notion | 5.11c | ||||
2 | Lizard Lips | 5.11b | ||||
3 | Precious Bodily Fluids | 5.12a | ||||
4 | ★ Fluoridation | 5.11a | ||||
5 | ★ Auto Bond | 5.11b | ||||
6 | ★★ Mandric | 5.10d | 75ft | |||
7 | ★ Getting' in the Groove | 5.11d | ||||
8 | ★★ Penguin Café | 5.11a | 80ft | |||
9 | Gortlough RA | 5.9 | ||||
10 | Party Time | 5.10d | ||||
11 | Pinch A Loaf | 5.11a | ||||
12 | Derbyshire | 5.10d |
1.3.2.13. The Knobs 0 routes in Field
description
A great, compact area offering a good variety of classic Tuolumne knob-wrestling problems.
approach
Open your car door. You're there!
history
One of the oldest bouldering areas in Tuolumne (for obvious reasons), and still one of the best.
1.3.2.14. Galen's Crack 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.862852, -119.434210
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Galen's Crack
2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Galen Rowell | 5.10c | 30ft | |||||
2 |
★★★ Falkenstein Face
If top-roping from the Galen's Crack anchor, flick the rope over and behind the flake to prevent against a pendulum. FFA: Chris Falkenstein | 5.10+ | 30ft |
1.3.3. Tenaya Peak Area 40 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.826792, -119.454204
|
1.3.3.1. Tenaya Peak Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fierce Tiger on Rock | 5.11d | ||||
2 | ★ Lakeshore Boulevard | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★ Chimbote | 5.11b | ||||
4 | Hole in One | 5.10d | ||||
5 |
★★★ Northwest Buttress
At 1,500 ft. Tenaya Peak is long. It offers low grade friction climbing with only a few sections in the 5.5 range. A 5.6 or so crack variation on the top pitch is available for those wanting something a bit spicier. | 5.5 | 1500ft, 14 |
1.3.3.2. Tenaya Peak, Lower Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Olive Oyl | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Barnacle Bill | 5.8 | ||||
3 | Pop Eye | 5.10d | ||||
4 | Wimpy | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Sweet Pea | 5.9 | ||||
6 | Black and Bluto | 5.10d |
1.3.3.3. Tenaya Peak, Skyline Crags 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Rapture of the Deep | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Sunset Prow | 5.10b | ||||
3 | Sharks Tooth | 5.10c | ||||
4 | Liberal Apologist | 5.11a | ||||
5 | Rabid Right | 5.10d | ||||
6 | Buzzers and Hummers | 5.10c | ||||
7 | Bar Gash | 5.9 A1 | ||||
8 | Drunk n' Horney | 5.10c | ||||
9 | Mickey's Big Mouth | 5.9 | ||||
10 | ★★ Power of Soul | 5.12b | ||||
11 | ★★ Soul Power | 5.11d | ||||
12 | ★★ Quick Sand | 5.12a |
1.3.3.4. Proctology Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Frontier Proctologist | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Pigmy Pony | 5.10a |
1.3.3.5. Guns of Navrone 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Twister Sister | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Black Leather | 5.8 | ||||
3 | ★ Bull Dike | 5.6 | ||||
4 | Whinning Weanie | 5.9 | ||||
5 | ★ Dinky Doink | 5.12a | ||||
6 | Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence | 5.9 | ||||
7 | Bye Spy | 5.10 | ||||
8 | Half n' Half | 5.10 | ||||
9 | ★ Sixty Nine | 5.11a | ||||
10 | Moaner | 5.11a | ||||
11 | Miller Time | 5.11a | ||||
12 | Bikes on Dikes | 5.10+ | ||||
13 | The Ring Eye | 5.11a | ||||
14 | Creep Show | 5.10 | ||||
15 | Frog Impaction | 5.9 |
1.3.4. Pywiack Area 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.842990, -119.436297
1.3.4.1. Pywiack Dome 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.845349, -119.443643
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pink Turds | 5.8 | ||||||
2 | Up and Out | 5.8 | ||||||
3 | Astroturf | 5.9 | ||||||
4 |
Unnatural Act
Small pro to 2". New bolts as of Aug, 2004. | 5.11a | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Aqua Knobby
Pro to 2". FFA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchen, 1972 | 5.9 | 380ft, 3, 1 | |||||
6 |
★ Pirouette Roof
Retrobolted by the FAist in 1999/2000. No longer runout. 10 bolts on P1. FFA: Chris Falkenstein | 5.11c | 160ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | ★ Boa | 5.12 | 5 | |||||
8 |
★★ Soft White Underbelly
Two rope rappel, or continue up Boa for 2 more pitches. | 5.11a | 150ft, 2 | |||||
9 | Heinous | 5.12a | ||||||
10 |
★ Foott Route
FFA: Jeff Foott? | 5.12a R | 3 | |||||
11 | ★ Forked Tongue | 5.10b R | ||||||
12 | ★★ Fort Knox | 5.11b R | ||||||
13 | ★★ Golden Bars | 5.11b R | 4 | |||||
14 | Piece of Grass | 5.10d X | 5 | |||||
15 |
★★ Needle & Spoon
Pro to 1.5", 7 draws. FFA: Dennis Oakeshott, Bruce Morris & Peter Mayfield, 1975 | 5.10a PG13 | 700ft, 5, 11 | |||||
16 |
★ House Calls
Pro to 4", 2 draws. FFA: unknown | 5.6 R | 700ft, 6, 2 | |||||
17 |
★★ Zee Tree
Mostly a low angle slab climb with a short corner offwidth exit pitch. Pywiack Dome has two small pine trees visible from the road and growing in the middle of the slab about 1/3 of the way up in large huecos. The route is just right of the right one. Bring 10 draws for lower pitches and pro to 4.5" for the last short pitch. Approach Pitch: Easy scramble with no protection to two bolt belay station few feet below steeper darker rock. The anchors are hard to spot, but can be found 10 ft. to the left of the section of rock which looks like it might offer some natural protection. Pitch 1: Follow a line of 5 bolts towards the hueco (solution pocket) with a small tree. The path of the route can be spotted because of the lighter color on the darker rock. The bolts to the tree are about 2-3 body-lengths apart. Follow 5 more bolts on the easier terrain with more distances between bolts, in this section finding the next bolt can be quite hard. This pitch is about 50 meters long and ends at two bolt anchor. Pitch 2: Follow line of 3 bolts while doing easy (~5.5) face climbing to two bolt anchor. Pitch 3: Follow the bolts up and right until reaching a 1-2 foot wide roof with a crack underneath. Create natural gear belay at the crack or continue to the next pitch. Pitch 4: Follow the roof-crack to the left as it become a corner crack. The climbing protects easily and is at around 5.3 level. Follow the crack to the headwall and build natural gear belay station. If you are using 60 meter rope and combined pitches 3 and 4, than you might be ~15 feet short of the optimal belay location. Pitch 5: Move left to the short wide corner crack and follow it to the top. Gear up to 4.5 ''. Last pitch can be skipped if you want to rap down other routes on the wall. Descent: Once on the top walk East (away from the lake, and towards the Meadows) and locate 2 bolt rap anchors at the East most corner. Rap 40 ft to the ridge heading East. Follow the ridge until walking down 3rd class slopes towards the road. FFA: Dan Zimmerlin | 5.7 | 720ft, 6, 14 | |||||
18 |
★★ Dike Route / The Spiral Dike
Pro to 4.5" (if topping out), 3 draws. FFA: Tom Gerughty, Roger Evje & Dave Meeks, 1966 | 5.9 | 700ft, 6, 6 |
1.3.4.2. Pywiack Headwall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Black Slot | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Lover Not A Fighter | 5.12c | ||||
3 | Who Stole My Flip-Flop | 5.10c |
1.3.4.3. Pywiack, Southeast Face 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.844868, -119.442841
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Rising Sun
Bolted top anchor. FA: Tom Herbert | 5.14a | 80ft, 7 | |||
2 |
★★★ Electric Africa
Pro to 1". Bolted top anchor. FFA: Kurt Smith | 5.12c R | 80ft, 4 | |||
3 |
★★ Clash of the Titans
Pro to 1". FA: Jerry Moffat | 5.13b | 100ft, 3 | |||
4 |
★ Medusa
FA: Ed Barry | 5.13b | 5 | |||
5 |
★★ European Vacation
FA: Ron Kauk | 5.13b | 2, 5 | |||
6 |
★★ The Meltdown
Bolted top anchor. | 5.11d | 3 | |||
7 |
★★ Skin Walker
Bolted top anchor. | 5.12d | 7 |
1.3.4.4. Pennyroyal Arches 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Ooze and Ahs | 5.10a | ||||
2 | ★★ The Vision | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★★ Multiplication | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★★ Alchemists' Re-vision | R | ||||
5 | ★ Eagle Dihedral | 5.7 | ||||
6 | Euphoria | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Pennyroyal Hight | 5.7 | ||||
8 | The Hump | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Walk About | 5.7 | ||||
10 | ★ U.F.R. | 5.10a | ||||
11 | ★ Diaphoretic Spasms | 5.9 | ||||
12 | White Slab | 5.7 |
1.3.4.5. Pennyroyal Arches Headwall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Disorderly Conduct | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★★ Resisting Arrest | 5.11a | ||||
3 | ★★ Whippersnapper | 5.13a |
1.3.5. Medlicott Area 126 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.860493, -119.421374
1.3.5.1. Medlicott Dome 91 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.858227, -119.422706
1.3.5.1.1. South Face 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.5.1.2. East 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.3.5.1.3. Middling/Coming Area 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.5.1.4. White Line Fever Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.5.1.5. Center 44 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.3.5.1.6. Far West 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.5.2. Virgin Dome 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Virgin Killer | 5.11a | ||||
2 | Ho Charlie | 5.10b | ||||
3 | No Bones | 5.11a | ||||
4 | Virgin Testimony | 5.11+ |
1.3.5.3. Sticks and Stones 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Centinella | 5.11d | ||||
2 | Friends in High Places | 5.11a | ||||
3 | Slim Pickins | 5.12a | ||||
4 | ★ Sticks and Stones | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Lost in Face | 5.11 |
1.3.5.4. West Farthing Wall 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pieces of Eight | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Two Bits Worth | 5.8 | ||||
3 | ★ Black Light | 5.10b | ||||
4 | Maniac's Maneuver | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Kryptonite | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★ Master Samwise | 5.9 | ||||
7 | Three Stooges | 5.8 | ||||
8 | ★ Rock n' Rope | 5.8 | ||||
9 | Zephyr | 5.7 | ||||
10 | Save Out Soul | 5.9 | ||||
11 | Cop Out | 5.8 |
1.3.5.5. Dozier Dome 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Easy Walk | 5.6 | ||||
2 | Repo Man | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Granite Garden | 5.9 | ||||
4 | Stir Crazy | 5.8 | ||||
5 | ★★ Holdless Horror | 5.7 | 400ft | |||
6 | Side Dish | 5.8 | ||||
7 | Out of Bounds | 5.8 | ||||
8 | ★ Out of Gas | 5.10d | ||||
9 | ★★ Ursula | 5.10c | ||||
10 | Claim Jumper | 5.12a | ||||
11 | ★★ Angelic Upstart | 5.11a | ||||
12 | Tune Up | 5.10a | ||||
13 | After Thought | 5.8 | ||||
14 | Dozier Dihedral | 5.9 | ||||
15 | ★★ Erret Out | 5.7 |
1.3.6. Fairview Area 62 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.873558, -119.401780
1.3.6.1. Marmot Dome 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mop and Glow | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★ Scratch | 5.7 | ||||
3 | ★ Mother Lode | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★ Slabstick | 5.7 | ||||
5 | ★ Holiday on Rock | 5.8 | ||||
6 | Low Pro | 5.6 | ||||
7 | ★ Easy Day | 5.5 |
1.3.6.2. Razor Back 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.873358, -119.399023
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Offday | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Juvenile Delinquent | 5.8 | ||||
3 | First Verse | 5.10d | ||||
4 | Delinquent | 5.10d | 3 | |||
5 | Pot Luck | 5.11a |
1.3.6.3. Whale's Back 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ice Ten | 5.10d | ||||
2 | Sole on Ice | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Strike it Rich | 5.11b | ||||
4 | Detective | 5.10+ | ||||
5 | Aztec Two-Step | 5.10c | ||||
6 | Parable | 5.10c | ||||
7 | Looking Glass | 5.10c | ||||
8 | Math of the Pastor | 5.11b | ||||
9 | Fast Track | 5.11a | ||||
10 | Nutsack | 5.10d | ||||
11 | Defenders of the Faith | 5.11c |
1.3.6.4. Fairview Dome 39 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.870088, -119.404750
|
1.3.6.4.1. Left Side 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
1.3.6.4.2. West Face 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.6.4.3. Right Side 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.7. Daff Area 182 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.887623, -119.425134
1.3.7.1. South Whizz Dome 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Prow | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Decoy | 5.11b | ||||
3 | ★ Start Bouldering | 5.11d | ||||
4 | ★★★ Shadow Warriors | 5.12c | ||||
5 | ★★ Super Sonic | 5.13b | ||||
6 | ★★ Love Sexy | 5.13b | ||||
7 | ★★ Fame and Fortune | 5.12d | ||||
8 | ★★★ Body and Soul | 5.12 | ||||
9 | ★★★ Cheat Stone | 5.12 | ||||
10 | ★★★ Blackout | 5.11b | ||||
11 | ★★ Body Count | 5.12a | ||||
12 | ★ Countdown | 5.12a | ||||
13 | Rivendell Crack | 5.8 |
1.3.7.2. North Whizz Dome 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cuckoo's Nest | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Ease On It | 5.10c | ||||
3 | Knob Roulette | 5.10d | ||||
4 | North Face Route | 5.7 | ||||
5 | West Side Route | 5.6 | ||||
6 | The Deviate | 5.12a | ||||
7 | ★ Thy Will Be Done | 5.10c | ||||
8 | Twister | 5.11a | ||||
9 | ★★★ Handbook | 5.11a | ||||
10 | ★ Deception | 5.10a | ||||
11 | Take a Whizz | 5.9 | ||||
12 | ★ Gee Whizz | A2 |
1.3.7.3. Downstream from Hammer Dome 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Beyond A Shadow of Doubt | 5.12a | ||||
2 | Motor Home for Midgets | 5.11c | ||||
3 | Low Budget | 5.11 | ||||
4 | ★ Johnny Rock | 5.11c |
1.3.7.4. Hammer Dome (Micro Dome) 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Not Quite Right | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Childhood's End | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Face to Face | 5.8 | ||||
4 | ★ Barbary Coast | 5.11a | ||||
5 | ★ Murder By Numbers | 5.11d | ||||
6 | ★ Tin Pan Alley | 5.11c | ||||
7 | ★★★ Shadow of Doubt | 5.10c | ||||
8 | ★ Mystery Achievement | 5.12d | ||||
9 | ★ Skeletor | 5.11d | ||||
10 | ★★ Rap It Up | 5.12d | ||||
11 | ★ Wild Streak | 5.12a | ||||
12 | Belay o' matic | 5.9 | ||||
13 | ★ Litho Lux | 5.9 | ||||
14 | ★ Air Play | 5.10d | ||||
15 | Pygmy Variation | 5.11c | ||||
16 | ★ Prime Time | 5.8 | ||||
17 | Team Yuppy Does Tuolumne | 5.10c | ||||
18 | ★ Too Pooped To Pop | 5.9 | ||||
19 | ★ Watts Wrong | 5.7 |
1.3.7.5. River Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The S.S. Minow | 5.6 | ||||
2 | ★ Whipped Cream | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★ Pajama People | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★★ Boat Party | 5.9 | ||||
5 | Zulu Lulu | 5.9 |
1.3.7.6. Lava Dome 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Stick and Span | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★ Shut It Up | 5.12b | ||||
3 | ★ The Flash | 5.11 | ||||
4 | ★★ Movement in Camouflage | 5.10d | ||||
5 | Summertime | 5.10a |
1.3.7.7. Alcatraz Rock 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Great Escape | 5.10b |
1.3.7.8. Dome Perignon 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Night and Day | 5.11b | ||||
2 | ★ Torque Yer Mudda | 5.11a | ||||
3 | Space Sluts in the Scammer | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★ Mike and Urmy | 5.11a | ||||
5 | ★ Friggin For Higgins | 5.10c | ||||
6 | Urban Perversion | 5.10a | ||||
7 | Charriots of the Todds | 5.10a | ||||
8 | Pie in the Sky | 5.11a |
1.3.7.9. Dark Side Dome 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.883379, -119.430008
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pebble Beach | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Inner Vision | 5.10b | ||||
3 | Walking The Dog | 5.11a | ||||
4 | ★ Voice of the Crags | 5.10b | ||||
5 | Brainwave | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★ Shot in the Dark | 5.10b | ||||
7 | ★ Batteries Not Included | 5.11c | ||||
8 | ★ Who's The Bosch | 5.8 |
1.3.7.10. Doda Dome 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Tittely Winks | 5.8 | ||||
2 | ★ Silcon Corner | 5.7 |
1.3.7.11. Micro Dome 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Midnight Hour | 5.11c | ||||
2 | ★★ Positivity | 5.12d | ||||
3 | ★★ Rebel Yell | 5.12b |
1.3.7.12. Bearded Clam Cliff 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Bearded Clam | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★★ Cowabunga | 5.12c | ||||
3 | Reptilian Brain Syndrome | 5.12a | ||||
4 | ★★ Into The Void | 5.11c |
1.3.7.13. The Western Front 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Green Eggs and Ham | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★ March of Dimes | 5.10a | ||||
3 | New Tricks for Old Dogs | 5.10a | ||||
4 | Touch of Grey | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Ace in the Hole | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Deadheads Delight | 5.9 |
1.3.7.14. Daff Dome 41 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.880385, -119.412116
1.3.7.14.1. West Face Left 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
1.3.7.14.2. West Face Right 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.3.7.14.3. South Flank 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.3.7.14.4. East Face 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.7.15. West Cottage Dome 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Pencilitits | 5.11a | ||||
2 | Geekin' Hard | 5.10d | ||||
3 | ★ Penci-Necked Geek | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★★ Cottage Cheese | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Head Cheese | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Fist Fight | 5.9 |
1.3.7.16. Peanut Gallery 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Prognosis | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Plausible Deniability | 5.11a | ||||
3 | ★ Diagnosis | 5.11d | ||||
4 | ★ Trickanosis | 5.11d | ||||
5 | ★ Osmosis | 5.12a | ||||
6 | ★ Neurosis | 5.12a | ||||
7 | ★ One-Armed Bandit | 5.11b | ||||
8 | ★ Platapus | 5.10d |
1.3.7.17. East Cottage Dome 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.7.17.1. West Face 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.7.17.2. North Walls 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.7.18. Canopy World 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.7.18.1. West Face 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.7.18.2. Southwest Face 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.7.18.3. Northeast Face 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.8. Cathedral Range Area 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alpine climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.838036, -119.397390
1.3.8.1. Cathedral Peak 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 37.847608, -119.406393
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Southeast Buttress
Seemingly intimidating from afar, the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is a beautiful 5 pitch route filled with lovely moderate climbing. A must do when in Tuolumne, Cathedral Peak can become quite crowded, fortunately the climbing offers many ways to navigate around other parties, at least down low (up high the face narrows, and parties tend to get bottlenecked). | 5.6 III | 710ft, 5 | |||||
2 | ★★★ South Face | 5.6 II |
1.3.8.1.1. Eichorn Pinnacle 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.847697, -119.406215
1.3.8.2. Matthes Crest 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 37.820605, -119.398828
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Traverse from South to North
The full traverse from north tip to south tip, inclusive of north and south summits clocks in at 1300M. Most people rap down after the south summit and most of the difficulties come after this point. | 5.7 II | 4300ft |
1.3.8.3. Cathedral Range Traverse 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.841592, -119.392764
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Unicorn Peak to Cathedral Peak
A 9 mile traverse of the northwestern section of the Cathedral Range. Can be made as easy as desired by skipping peaks. | 5.7 IV | 49000ft |
1.3.8.4. Cathedral Peak Boulders 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
There's a large amount of rock on the way out to Cathedral Lake and Cathedral Peak. The problems are spread out and generally undocumented, but it's a cool area to explore.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Behave | V9 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Did it up Direct | V4 | ||||
3 | ★★★ The King | V7 | ||||
4 | ★ Fells like an Oil slick | V4 |
1.3.9. Lembert Area 62 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.878490, -119.347440
1.3.9.1. Lembert Dome 54 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.880116, -119.348825
1.3.9.1.1. Northwest Face 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.881400, -119.350382
1.3.9.1.2. West Face 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.878529, -119.350854
|
1.3.9.1.3. East Wall 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.879796, -119.346532
1.3.9.2. Dog Dome 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.884019, -119.344638
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ North Face Route | 5.8 |
1.3.9.3. Puppy Dome 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.875235, -119.345615
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Achilles | 5.10c | ||||
2 | ★★★ Do or Fly | 5.11c | ||||
3 | ★★★ Grenade Launcher | 5.12c | ||||
4 | ★★★ Horseshoes and Handgrenades | 5.12a | ||||
5 | ★★ Puppy Crack | 5.7 | 49ft | |||
6 |
★★ Battle of The Bulge
Intimidating face moves on pockets/pin scars at the bottom that need tricams to tame. Crux is pulling the prominent bulge at the top. A hike up and around by Puppy Crack provides access for setting up a top rope. | 5.8 | 90ft | |||
7 | ★★ Hand Crack | 5.8 | 40ft |
1.3.10. Twin Bridges 55 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.1. Whatchacallit Dome 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.10.1.1. West Face 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.1.2. North Face 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.2. Pillsbury Dome 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.10.2.1. North Face 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.2.2. South Face 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.3. Don't Call Me Dome 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.10.3.1. South Face 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.3.2. West Face 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.3.3. North Face 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.10.4. Junior Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rolo Solo | 5.11a | ||||
2 | Slate Quarry | 5.11a | ||||
3 | Mighty Mite | 5.11a | ||||
4 | One for the Money | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Two for the Money | 5.10b | ||||
6 | Three to Get Ready | 5.11b | ||||
7 | Go Cat Go | 5.10a |
1.3.10.5. The Grandstand 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pop Fly | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Becky's Corner | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Grand Slam | 5.11c | ||||
4 | Ten A, My Ass | 5.10c | ||||
5 | ★ Spark Plug | 5.10c | ||||
6 | ★★ Blue Moon | 5.12a | ||||
7 | ★★ Straight Away | 5.12a | ||||
8 | Sorry Dave | 5.8 | ||||
9 | Snooze You Lose | 5.8 |
1.3.11. Tioga Pass 63 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.3.11.1. Transpire Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Mellow Yellow | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Harpole and the Hendersons | 5.11a | ||||
3 | Rat Patrol | 5.11b | ||||
4 | ★ Walk Like An Egyptian | 5.11b | ||||
5 | Transpire Crack | 5.10a | ||||
6 | ★★ Scratch 'n Sniff | 5.11d | ||||
7 | ★★ Itchy Scratchy | 5.11d | ||||
8 | ★★ Red Don't Go | 5.12b | ||||
9 | ★ Stickie Wickiet | 5.12a | ||||
10 | ★★ Wicked Stiffy | 5.12b | ||||
11 | Fuel Pump | 5.10d | ||||
12 | ★★ Wicked Itchy | 5.12a |
1.3.11.2. Mt. Conness 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alpine climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Harding Route | 5.10c | ||||
2 | ★ Morning Thunder | 5.9 | ||||
3 | ★★★ West Ridge | 5.6 | ||||
4 |
★ North Ridge
FA: Galen Rowell & Barry Hagen, 1969 | 5.6 | 800ft |
1.3.11.3. Private Property 30 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Executive Decision | 5.11c | ||||
2 | ★★ Quaking Aspen | 5.9 | ||||
3 | ★ Double Cream, Double Sugar | 5.11c | ||||
4 | Ferd's Follies | 5.10d | ||||
5 | Radar Detector | 5.12a | ||||
6 | Lucky 13 | 5.10d | ||||
7 | ★ Torqued | 5.11b | ||||
8 | Made for the Shade | 5.11c | ||||
9 | Made for the Shade Variant | 5.12a | ||||
10 | Falk's Folly | 5.10a | ||||
11 | ★★ Iya | 5.12b | ||||
12 | ★★ Spike | 5.12c | ||||
13 | ★ Invader | 5.10a | ||||
14 | Get to the Roof | 5.11b | ||||
15 | ★★ Dangle Fest | 5.12c | ||||
16 | Jawbone Jitterbug | 5.11c | ||||
17 | Earshot | 5.12c | ||||
18 | ★ Titslinger | 5.11c | ||||
19 | ★★★ Silver Bullet | 5.12b | ||||
20 | Dynomike | 5.11b | ||||
21 | ★★ Felix | 5.12b | ||||
22 | ★★★ Master Cylinder | 5.12b | ||||
23 | ★★ Bag 'o Tricks | 5.11d | ||||
24 | Golden Eagle | 5.10c | ||||
25 | Coq Au Vin | 5.11c | ||||
26 | Stalag 13 | 5.9 | ||||
27 | ★ Mean Left | 5.12a | ||||
28 | ★★ Stones Throw | 5.12a | ||||
29 | ★★ The Finger | 5.12c | ||||
30 | ★★ Poindexter | 5.11d |
1.3.11.4. The Gold Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gold Wall | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Tastes Great | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★ Less Filling | 5.11c | ||||
4 | Hole in the Wall | 5.11a |
1.3.11.5. Wicked Shortie 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Xtra | 5.12c | ||||
2 | ★★ Wicked Shortie | 5.12a |
1.3.11.6. Green Bridge 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ EZ Duz It | 5.12a | ||||
2 | ★★★ We Want EZ | 5.12b |
1.3.11.7. Spillway Crag 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Gold Mind | 5.9 |
1.3.11.8. Speed of Life 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Speed of Life | 5.11b | ||||
2 | Moose and Squirrell | 5.10a | ||||
3 | Codex | 5.12a | ||||
4 | Moon Dawg | 5.9 | ||||
5 | Full Speed Ahead | 5.11c |
1.3.11.9. Third Pillar 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Regular Route | 5.10b | 600ft | |||
2 | Lenticular Limbo | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★ Minotaur | 5.8 |
1.3.12. Mariuolumne Area 78 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.861698, -119.422054
1.3.12.1. The Lamb 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.870801, -119.421982
1.3.12.1.1. North Face 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.12.1.2. West Face 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.3.12.2. Drug Dome 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.863146, -119.421861
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Ice | 5.12d | ||||
2 |
High Times
FA: Ben Ditto, Ian Nielsen & Steele Taylor | 5.13b | 390ft, 4 | |||
3 | ★★★ Oz | 5.10d | 500ft, 4, 10 | |||
4 | ★★★ Gram Traverse | 5.10d | ||||
5 |
Push It
FA: Grossnick, Barnes, Wuhrmann & Jarit | 5.11a | 110ft, 7 | |||
6 | ★★ Sunshine | 5.10b | ||||
7 | Lord of the Overhigh | 5.10c | ||||
8 | Dragonfly | 5.10b | ||||
9 |
★★ Black Nepalese
Great face climbing on wonderful knobs and flakes that turns into low grade slab at the top. Bolted at the bottom. A small rack is needed to reduce the runouts and increase safety. You'll also need #1-#3 pro for a belay anchor on the ledge. | 5.7 | 69ft, 5 | |||
10 |
★★ Dope Show
Great face climb just to the right of Black Nepalese. Wonderful knobs, flakes, and crimps await you on this one. Bring a rack of .5-#1 cams and a set of stoppers to protect the top section or you'll be in ground fall territory. #1-#3 cams are needed for a belay anchor as well. | 5.8 | 69ft, 4 | |||
11 |
Kilogram
A bolted face leading into a roof crack and headwall climbed on gear. FFA: Connor Herson, Jul 2021 | 5.14- | 230ft |
1.3.12.3. Mariuolumne Dome 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.861357, -119.420248
1.3.12.3.1. North Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.12.3.2. West Face 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.3.12.3.3. Right Side 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.12.3.4. Lost Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.3.12.4. Island in the Sky 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Suicide Solution | 5.11c | ||||
2 | Whip It | 5.11b | ||||
3 | ★ Prime Cut | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★★ Thunder Road | 5.10c | ||||
5 | ★ Freedom of Choice | 5.11b | ||||
6 | Munge Plunge | 5.10a | ||||
7 | ★ Chicken Little | 5.9 | ||||
8 | Pussey Paws | 5.10 | ||||
9 | ★ Another Country | 5.7 |
1.3.13. Pothole Dome 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.881939, -119.391046
summary
A dome with some easy climbs and easier scrambling
approach
There is a trail that leads to the dome from the parking lot.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Family Fun (center) | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Slippery When Dry (center) | 5.10a | 100ft | |||
3 | You Found It (center) | 5.6 | 100ft |
1.4. Mt. Conness Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alpine climbing, Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.970016, -119.325502
1.4.1. Mt. Conness 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alpine climbing, Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 37.969800, -119.324287
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ West Ridge
The long ridge separating the large, slabby west face of Mt Conness from the steep south face. There are numerous ways to climb here, but generally the best exposure and climbing is to stay as close to the south face as possible. Can be accessed from the Young Lakes (great camping), or as an exceptionally long day trip from Saddlebag Lake, by hiking in over the south side of the mountain. | 5.6 III | 2000ft, 12 | |||||
2 | ★★★ Southwest Face | 5.10c V | ||||||
3 | Rosy Crown | 5.9 A2 IV | ||||||
4 | Morning Thunder | 5.9 III | ||||||
5 |
★★ North Ridge
The long, low angled ridge extending away to the north of the peak. Usually accessed from Saddlebag Lake. | 5.6 II | ||||||
6 | ★ North Ridge (McCabe Pass) | 5.3 |
1.4.2. North Peak 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.982110, -119.313616
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ North Couloir | Class 5 |
1.5. Southern Yosemite Peaks 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.647995, -119.477962
1.5.1. Mt. Lyell 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.740527, -119.270624
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | East Ridge | Class 3 | ||||
2 | East Ridge (From Marie Lakes) | Class 4 |
1.5.2. Mt. Maclure 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.744402, -119.280346
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lyell-Maclure Saddle, East Ridge | Class 3 | ||||
2 | Lyell-Maclure Saddle, North Ridge | Class 4 | ||||
3 | Lyell-Maclure Saddle, Northeast Ridge | Class 4 |
1.5.3. Mt. Clark 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.702715, -119.437238
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Southeast Arete | Class 4 |