Ascents in World as Clean by Vanessa Wills

rock could do with a clean

brilliant lead by Christopher. Thigh jam

took 6 attempts to start the route. 3 dodgy bash ins and a very old school grade.

warm up

a bit chossy

Climb out before the storm hit. Its not Frog.

2 finger pockets, pumpy as.

2 nice overhangs. (mixed gear)

too cold for comfort

tough start to sustained crack

not really protectable

nice sustained and slightly overhung

Interesting moves on less than perfect rock

the finger crack was OK. The chips are not. The bolts???

First pitch only as warm up

Bolts miss the obvious nice but spaced pockets to the left

Intermittent showers

These grades seem quite sandbagged. Not as sustained as badfinger

Didnt have any cams. Very stout for grade, but actually nice technical moves. Could easily add 2 grades

Would be nice with a bit of traffic. Needs a #4 and 5 up top, which were in the car.

Cold, windy and jet lagged.

Tied off chicken heads and a historic bolt. Easy but run out

Finally regained some energy after shade hit this wall, though we wasted a lot of time figuring out how to get to the start with the “guide” book.

Beautiful moves after a tricky start. Top pitch only, down as 24 which it may feel on lead

Escape at the end of day

Escape at the end of day

Tried to lead, starting crack great, wobbled across traverse, got to third bolt and it is desperate to clip esp when dirty. Took a sideways fall of about 3 m, sprained ankle, cursed carrots, and stupid bolt placement, dave led with some jiggery pokery, managed to second clean ( with more excitement and ankle pain). First pitch only, that was enough!

A quick run up before dark. Dave's much quicker than me on run out slabs

Rpt already, second Neil

Pretty cruxy at points, nicely led by Dave while I snuffled my way up behind him

Had forgotten all my sequences after the 22 section and spent two goes trying to sort it. I still find the crux on the "23" bit at the second bolt the hardest of the 3 cruxy sections, but surprisingly it all worked 3 rd go. Will no doubt forget everything before I get back to lead it.

Not as hard or as interesting as it's neighbour

Thought we should suss out the main descent route, nice enough climbing on runnels. Got descended on sure enough, maybe an earlier start would have helped. Hot. Alt, combined 1&2 and 3&4

I think it had some nice climbing , couldnt feel hands. Seconded the FA.

Although down as 19 on thesarvo, Dave and I thought this was almost as hard as the null hypothesis, and harder than the two 20s we had done earlier. Maybe it would seem milder if we had done a crux on a 000 as occurs on Bittersweet pitch 1.

burly start

Glad I was seconding! Great sustained slabbing and a rooflet to boot

ekeing out another route in the drizzle, thin

Same same

Rpt, definitely find this as tricky as Easy meat. No snakes today.

Nice but suffered from being climbed on when wet a couple of days ago.

We had to leave before we led this. Climbs quite nicely

also did it in 2003 I think

Rather average for arapiles. All I can recall is the stuck wire.....

Led this to last bolt yesterday but bailed to anchors of SsMinnow when run out looked too exciting on the very rusty bolts. Our static was hanging over it so climbed out.

Never tap on Kaputar rock.

Probably not even 20 if you bridge after 4th bolt off other wall which seems how it was designed. Needs some anchors when I get time

5 bolts in 30 m with no useful gear between- no thanks. The top 10 m is a gear crack. Can use anchors for edge of ecstasy to top rope, 70 m rope will get you down. Hard move through rooflet on arête if short, especially when the intermediate snapped on me first go.

Rpt, to change to camouflaged hangers ( left one original gold one on)

Rpt

Exploring options for a rebolt. Nice climbing, shame about the rock. Second go after a bit= a lot of brushing.

Dogged it, chalked up all the holds then seconded to clean as darkness approached. Quite a lot of long moves and I elected to do the traverse to the top rack at foot level rather than dislocate my shoulder

Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.

Sensational despite the peanut gallery

Perfect climbing. Shame about the peanut gallery

Rock was mank.

Lovely dyke feature. Ended up last route at Buffalo due to illness.