Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
19 | ★ Midway | 12m | Average | |||
19 | ★ Plain Dumb | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
2 laps. 55 days off rock, wrist brace on. Skin hurts, wrist seemed to survive, just avoided mantles.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Felt a bit pumped, not surprising I suppose
|
||||||
15 | ★ Stingray | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
2 laps
|
||||||
20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt, good friction today.
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs White Stack | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mithras | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.
|
||||||
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
20 | ★ General Discipline — 2 attempts | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Amazed I Onsighted this, so slippery today
|
||||||
22 | ★ General Benefit — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Hard. Forgot helmet, didn’t feel like leading these spaced bolted climbs.
|
||||||
Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, feels more 22 if short.
|
||||||
21 | ★ Plastic Extras | 18m | Average | |||
Rpt, seems easier than last year on the mantles
|
||||||
Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt.
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Upper | ||||||
19 | ★★ Semi Retirement | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, exit.
|
||||||
23 | ★★ Moby Dick | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Lower | ||||||
19 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Cadbury Flake | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Houdini | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.
|
||||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Flake | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Thu 14th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Snuggles and the Dragon | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.
|
||||||
Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
17 | ★ Little Frog | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Red Head Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon | 10m | Average | |||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Kit Kat Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
This always makes me laugh for a 19, like many of that grade here, but it’s a nice climb.
|
||||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Hakuna Matata — 2 attempts | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Led once then top roped it clean because I thought there were people queuing. Even mid week this place is hectic. The run out freaked me out a bit, will take some finger sized cams to lead. Much more relaxed on top rope though still pumpy. Nothing over grade 22 really, the reachy move near the second bolt is probably the crux for me, but I’m sure a red point crux will be higher.
|
||||||
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Hen-ry! | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Lead it with some falls around 3rd bolt. Then clean from 4 th bolt and too scared to fall. Repeated clean on TR as didn’t fancy the fall around arete again. A bit like a Wards hill first wall route on crimpy ironstone- so not worth travelling the world for.
|
||||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Smooth Operator | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
|
||||||
Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
Fiabe per Samantha | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★ Madame Babette | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Too run out for me chickened out 2 bolts from top.Had to bring in the reinforcement. The slab dyno also seems a bit hard for 6a but may be a height thing. Large wet patch that did require some foot holds in.
|
||||||
Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ||||||
Parking | ||||||
6c | Nuevo C | 25m | ||||
Well I top roped through the crux with a high first clip, though took a couple of goes. Feels a bit contrived away from some slightly better holds.
|
||||||
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
|
||||||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
|
||||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Lyse & Brastad Skälefjäll | ||||||
6+ R | Startpistolen — 2 attempts | 15m | ||||
Gnarly and no protection until half height
|
||||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, much nicer today after a bit of traffic. Probably should be 19
|
||||||
10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Average | |||
Done this a few times and the start is quite hard as is continuing up offwidth on lead. I will argue for upgrade. The start is at least a metre lower than the old days
|
||||||
15 | Brand X | 13m | Don't Bother | |||
Some offwidth practice.
|
||||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave The Terrace | ||||||
22 | ★★ Route with a high first bolt and goes through roof | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, if this is the one I think it’s easier than 22, more like 20
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Just kick it | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt with Mel
|
||||||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Clear and present danger | 15m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Rpt to put rope on weena
|
||||||
13 | ★ Stopper (Direct) | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska — 2 attempts | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt too tricky as the warm up, did it later in the day
|
||||||
Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
21 | ★ Ghetto Blaster | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt to get out
|
||||||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
22 | ★ A Bridge Too Far | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, though I did sneak in a bridge up high
|
||||||
17 | ★ Electric Turkey | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, cleaning
|
||||||
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
18 | ★ Providence | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Old school 18 for sure. Good slab moves though
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Smear to Oblivion | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Brushing en route, nice and almost feels as secure as JTD these days
|
||||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Canyon Cliffs | ||||||
11 | ★ Prologue | 25m | ||||
Ushering up the grandson and then his first abseil
|
||||||
Sun 28th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
21 | ★ Strapidbisectomy | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
15 | Adrenaline Wall | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
19 R | ★★ Garbage Blaster | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting out at least despite feeling poorly
|
||||||
Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Yep, shoulder unhappy laybacking.
|
||||||
Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 in a parallel universe. Always requires thinking Mc the middle part has changed over the years
|
||||||
Wed 10th May 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
22 | ★ Putting shame in your game | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
With the proximity of the trees I no longer feel comfortable leading this. Feels contrived, due to how close tree is to cliff
|
||||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
23 | ★ Watcher in the Water | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Scout Wall | ||||||
15 | Dob Dob Dob | 11m | ||||
Did another couple of eliminates as well on this wall. Getting in before rain and iris moore way too spoogy
|
||||||
16 | ★ Dib Dib Dib | 10m | Average | |||
15 | ★ Woggle | 10m | Average | |||
17 | ★★ V groove | 9m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Tea Bag | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Felt like it deserved a v grade. Steep for the short.
|
||||||
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
19 | ★ Chips Ahoy | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt. Despite name I can’t see any chips on this. The tree is a disincentive to lead this one. Best to set anchor before climbing.
|
||||||
20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. One very thin move, needed a good clean.
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt, always lovely
|
||||||
18 | ★ Joslab | 23m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt, we thought we were about to get rained out. Tried the left variant finish as well.
|
||||||
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Transporter | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, enjoyable 3 d climbing, probably deserves anchors after all the trees burnt a few years back
|
||||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops North Face | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Mis Led | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
|
||||||
21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
I still can’t believe I led this 17 years ago. I must have been mad.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Slabble | 15m | ||||
Still top ropable.
|
||||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
18 | ★★ Juicy Rumours | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, another nice trad classic
|
||||||
21 ~22 | Queen of the Goths | 27m | Average | |||
Rpt, quick end of day lap. Probably more a 22. The rock at the bottom really is crap.
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Shades of Grey | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Would need a bit of cleaning testing out the new anchors over burning spear.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Burning Spear | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, such a nice route
|
||||||
Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
20 | ★ You are not the bose, I am the bose — 2 attempts | 9m, 2 | Average | |||
Rpt, had to clean holds
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Super Nintendo Chalmers | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
19 | ★ All Climb and No Belay Makes Jack a Shit Mate | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
18 | ★ Ferns and Fings | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Apparently been on this before
|
||||||
Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
16 | ★ The Blind Leading The Crippled | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Resurrection | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Interloper | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
20 | ★ Drilling in the Name of | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Bastard Cancer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Death Unto Racists | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
More back rehab
|
||||||
Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
17 | ★ Jesus Built My Hammer Drill | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Weetbix | 11m, 4 | Average | |||
12 | ★ Paradise Found | 12m | ||||
12 | ★ Eye Bolt Route | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Twilight Groping | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt, testing out the back carefully. It’s kind of nice to touch rock, even if it’s waterworks….
|
||||||
Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ No Parking | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, excellent crack
|
||||||
Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Icarus | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the last 2 pitches in 3. Stopping at the notch seemed sensible. I led the last bit only which was not bad, but the crack below was good, though the chimney exit felt hard
|
||||||
Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes University Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★ Sparkle — 3 attempts | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We went direct via some great bouldery moves. I couldn’t reach the way Dave did to a good hold way right, but managed to figure out a tough way whereby I thought my heel would snap if I fell, so did it on TR clean after two lead goes and aiding through crux on first go. Going direct seemed more 24 at my height. The flake to the right of the third bolt rocks and although keyed in at the moment may loosen or come out if someone yarded on it. We actually liked it, includes staying on face past 3 Rd bolt. Dave also did the arete finish.
|
||||||
Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Skidrow Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Skidrow | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky crack size
|
||||||
17 | ★ Sitting Bull | 10m | ||||
Did the offwidth to left start because it looked cleaner. Thesarvo has it down as grade 11 which surely must be a typo
|
||||||
Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bad Luck Silverback | 12m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. Totally spoogy. For a lead I think grade 20
|
||||||
21 ~22 | ★★ High Goose Stepping Action — 2 attempts | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Worthy of rebolt, the carrots and FH are pretty manky, but some good moves. In todays spooge and 100% humidity it felt super hard. Gave horizontals a good clean out first go.
|
||||||
Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Peppercorner | 30m | Average | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | ||||||
15 R | ★ Birds Nest | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
||||||
Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
20 R | ★ Oblivion | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Oblivious doesn’t really differ much from this.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ The Obituary | 30m | ★ Good | |||
I’m not a great fan of this route
|
||||||
Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
14 | ★ Back to Back | 13m | Average |