Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 8th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Calabrese | 55m | ★ Good | |||
Second pitch and probably third after first pitch of Salami.
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Fri 7th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
11 12 | ★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 pitches alt leads, thought the descent was harder than the climb
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10 | ★★ The Shroud | 120m | ★ Good | |||
2 pitches alt leads, about 1 hour 15 min from start to back to bags seeing we had the descent sorted. Given I would normally solo this that's not too bad
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Thu 6th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Hangman | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Maybe I could have done without the tricky move in the middle at this stage
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15 | ★ The Ghost of Melville | 25m | Average | |||
No bees. But likely a lorikeet. Quite contorting. I was meant to restrict myself to 10 and below, but these are more interesting
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3 | ★ Bullet Buttress | 20m | ||||
Quick solo to stay warm
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13 | Sue's Crutchless Knickers | 20m | Average | |||
7 | ★ Little Revolver Crack | 20m | Average | |||
Thu 26th Jul 2018 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
26 | ★★ Aslan | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty happy , even though it was a top rope. Great effort by Dave on his attempted redpoint.
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Wed 25th Jul 2018 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
23 | ★★ Edge Effects | 40m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5 bolts in 30 m with no useful gear between- no thanks. The top 10 m is a gear crack. Can use anchors for edge of ecstasy to top rope, 70 m rope will get you down. Hard move through rooflet on arête if short, especially when the intermediate snapped on me first go.
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Tue 24th Jul 2018 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
25 | ★★ There Goes the Neighbourhood | 35m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We both got this clean third attempt. The climb is also cleaning up ( loose small flakes and moss). Has 2 bolts below each cruxy bit, but will feel exciting on lead.
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Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Stateline Gully | ||||||
20 | ★ Tendon Tensioner | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Quite hard at the start , nice to climb without sticking gear behind the flake
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Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
20 | ★★ Candle Power | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb, despite the cold. Did quite a bit of gardening
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Sun 15th Jul 2018 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
17 | ★★ Yummikins | 33m | ★ Good | |||
This route is always nice, good rock
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Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 20 R | Advanced Decomposition | 50m | Crap | |||
Second P1, led P2, Barley puts up some good routes but this isn't one of them. There is 7m of good climbing around a block on P2 after an Ok arête sequence, but you wonder what keeps the block there. The first pitch was exfoliating weetbix. The rock in the crack just starts to improve when you are made to traverse across some ok face moves to arête. I don't mind choss, the route to the left has quite a bit, but was was a good adventure. This is just crap and hopefully I have stopped someone else's suffering with my description. If you must a single rack from TCUs to # 4 helps.
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Wed 11th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★ Novocastria | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
If this was somewhere else, and had a few more bolts it would be popular ( and clean). Interesting double arête moves, almost felt like I was at Bulahdelah. Up to tree. More like 22/23R, but a convenient TR.
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Mon 9th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
25 | ★★ Barbed-wire Canoe | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finger and toe destroying. Diabolical start again if you can't reach crimp from horn foothold. Once I managed that I was not going to fall off. I have no ambition to lead this. Nice climbing, lots of fragile flakes.
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Wed 4th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Deliverance | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Kind of pink point start with a high runner at base of twin cracks. Took a couple of goes, and I had to leave the rack there to collect en passant. The start was dirty and slippery and detracts from an otherwise great climb. Then fell at the end on first go despite reading the moves right when my heel unexpectedly slipped. Went second time.
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Sun 17th Jun 2018 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Lower Crag | ||||||
20 | ★ So | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up lap, the ground has disappeared from below this so hard to get on
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Wed 23rd May 2018 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Space Ape Area | ||||||
16 | Lacolite Connection | 8m, 1 | Average | |||
And dave soloed this- crazy
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Sat 19th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Shakes and Flakes Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Tips for Troubadours | 30m | ||||
About a year ago, did after doing LNG
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Sat 19th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Sadhu Rum | 30m | Average | |||
Seconding Neil. He had headed into the 22 to the left by mistake but fortunately I didn't have to do the reachy move, just traverse out and retrieve the bolt plate and draw
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Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Honey Dip | 28m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, to abseil over racers edge
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Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops East Face | ||||||
20 | Barely Credible | 45m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
Great climb, crap rock. Nice exposure leading to belay, did as one long pitch, 18 draws
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Sun 11th Mar 2018 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Beehive Area | ||||||
20 | Chimney | 10m | Average | |||
Hard to grade, but is quite overhung at start so bouldery to get into.
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Sat 17th Feb 2018 - West Gosford | ||||||
Rock Soldiers Arete | ||||||
19 | ★ Flares R US | 9m | ★ Good | |||
The cam placements are quite good
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Mon 5th Feb 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Apron Strings | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Yep, needs some anchor attention, better than the rock quality suggests
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Mon 22nd Jan 2018 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Upper | ||||||
19 | ★★ Semi Retirement (Semi retirement (pitch 2)- exit route) | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Fri 12th Jan 2018 - Koolewong | ||||||
Lara Street Crag | ||||||
V0 | Ground floor | 3m | ||||
V0 | Pyramid | 3m | ||||
15 15 R | Golden orb | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Nice features, easy to TR if you don't have gear
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14 | ★ Charlottes web | 9m, 3 | ||||
Good rock
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14 | ★ Spiders silk | 10m, 3 | ||||
18 | ★★ Fangs | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived but fun steep jugging
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V1 | Arachnida (Silky) | 3m | ||||
18 | ★★ Cave 2 | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting moves from cave onto face
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Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Watagans | ||||||
Rope Rd The Main Line | ||||||
23 | ★ The Shuffler | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Should have taped the ankles for this one. Not sure I could get off the ground with cams required, but it was fun to top rope. Felt more like the " snuffler" today with the flu.
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Watagans | ||||||
Rope Rd The Main Line | ||||||
16 | Elite | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I must be sick, I enjoyed the struggle of the chimney at the top
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Sun 17th Dec 2017 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Lower Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ From Here to Eternity | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Overhanging finger and hand jams that is not straight forward. Good to see the FA sandbagged on his own route. Agrees 21, though I reckon New Horizons wasn't that much harder.
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Mon 11th Dec 2017 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops East Face | ||||||
16 | Tottering Blocks | 20m | Average | |||
Ok climbing but the blocks are a little disconcerting
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Sun 3rd Dec 2017 - Watagans | ||||||
Black Stump The Canyon | ||||||
20 19 | ★ Bridge-it (Canyon) | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Probably not even 20 if you bridge after 4th bolt off other wall which seems how it was designed. Needs some anchors when I get time
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Sat 25th Nov 2017 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
20 | ★ The Process of Elimination | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Something a bit different
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Sat 28th Oct 2017 - Blackwall | ||||||
Offspring Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Ring Leader | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Did the 23 version bailing left after trying the direct finish multiple times. Can almost do it direct, a wicked mantle. I was pretty sure Jules did it direct. 25 is reasonable that way I think, very balancy
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Fri 20th Oct 2017 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fingers | 8m | Average | |||
Wide to off fingers, short
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24 | ★★ New Blue Dress | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Did consider leading but the fall looks ugly if you come off between the 2 bolts as you would hit the triangular ledge
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Thu 19th Oct 2017 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
22 | ★★ Supermouse | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice climbing. Would have excellent pro with small cams after 4 m
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19 | ★ Goose n' Off | 15m | Average | |||
The top is fairly green, getting into the crack was quite tricky
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Thu 19th Oct 2017 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Boon Docks Main Docks Roped Climbing | ||||||
20 | ★ Offwidthicus | 15m | Average | |||
The gear required is a #9, 12 and a big bro. Sadly we had these. I may have stood on one of the cams that was in the way, more like a body chimney for me
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Sun 15th Oct 2017 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks South Buttress Integral face | ||||||
14 | ★ Roy's Crack | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Old school stoutness
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Sat 14th Oct 2017 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Northern Slabs | ||||||
20 | ★★ Stele Breeze | 100m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
According to my climbing partner this has been dumbed down into a grade 18 sports route. I found it still scary on second
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17 | ★★ Equilibrium | 140m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice lead by Dave who loves run out slabs
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19 | ★★ Just in Passing | 85m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Second pitch ( crux) linked with bird of Prey first pitch
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21 | ★ Picnic | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Not sure how I didn't fall off, another impressive slab lead by Dave
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Sat 7th Oct 2017 - Tascott | ||||||
Tascott Cave Elevated Grey Walls | ||||||
14 | Piece Of Cake | 8m | Average | |||
Presume chimney left of jam practice. About grade 10 if at Monkeyface
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18 | ★ Jam Practice | 8m | ★ Good | |||
I presume the crack with undercut start, glad it didn't get bolted. Had no cams
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Sat 7th Oct 2017 - Tascott | ||||||
Tascott Cave Right Hand Side Of Cave | ||||||
18 | LH Crack | 8m | Average | |||
19 | ★ Kassim Exam | 10m | Average | |||
Sun 1st Oct 2017 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor The Walker Spur | ||||||
21 | ★ Verities and Balderdash Direct Start | 5m | ★ Good | |||
More like direct finish, went straight up after initial corner, quite tricky
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Sat 9th Sep 2017 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Lower | ||||||
21 | ★★ Houdini direct start | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit trickier since large block washed away a year ago
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Mon 28th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Slhanay | ||||||
5.10d | The Invisible staircase | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
It was ok for a black slab, hard at second bolt and sting in tail. A bit more traffic needed to keep the moss away.
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Sat 26th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute Grub Street | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Sod Buster | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this and finished up a 5.9 on Stooges I had done before. My shoes have got stickier, or the angle has gone down, these slabs feel easy now, when I used to be terrified.
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5.10c | ★★★ Cling Peaches | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not too bad for grade, nice tips climbing, starts under Stooges slab, 2 ledges down
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Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Flake Ledge | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Merci Me | 70m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dave led this as a 68 m rope stretcher as part of our Grand wall
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Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ The Grand Wall | 300m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean- apart from the aid sections and a pull on the bolt on Perry's traverse whose "reachy move" is indeed out of reach. Our 5 am wake up saw us first on route ( at 630) but were soon pursued by 2 teams
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5.11a | ★★★ The Sword | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One stuck nut needed 2 hands to hammer it out, fixed rope up the aid section, very strenuous
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Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Air Voyage Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Extra Dry | ★ Good | ||||
Nice hand jams.
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Wed 16th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Fairy meadows boulders and crags West bivy rock environs | ||||||
5.10c | Chimney block 2 | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Harder start, then easy
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5.9 | Chimney block 3 | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Easier and more bolts, a bit dirty. Single bolt at top
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Wed 16th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Fairy meadows boulders and crags East bivy rock environs | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Toilet block top rope | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Easy to set up, and more fun blobby holds
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5.10b | ★ Toilet block face | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A bit dirty, but fun route on big potato holds- after getting rained off LFT second go
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Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Cirque of the Unclimbables | ||||||
Huey Spires East Huey Spire | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Inner Limits | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Despite its wide nature, this crack/ chimney was very fun, with many climbing tricks needed.
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Tue 25th Jul 2017 - Jasper National Park | ||||||
Lost Boys Main Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Grab a Seat | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Just to first anchors as a warm up
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Sat 8th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Woodbury | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Salsa Dance | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Offered to clean it for Dave. Very technical, quite unique moves
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5.10c | Lovely lady Liss | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Easier to clean, and ledge fall potential real. Hard start, but had to do it for photo opportunity
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Fri 7th Jul 2017 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Slocan Valley Slocan Bluffs Roadside | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Forever Young | 33m | ★ Good | |||
The sun was coming, needs more traffic
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Sun 2nd Jul 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Blipvert Tower | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Granola Bar | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Did as a 50 m pitch from the ground with lichen in my navel- that being the name of lower pitch
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5.10c | ★★ Maximum headroom | 34m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Despite a fair bit of bird poo this had great moves
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Fri 30th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Great White Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★ Bella's run | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Did this on TR after lowering off the link up.
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Fri 30th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Grassy Glades | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Grassy Glades | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and clean and steeper than it appears
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Wed 21st Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Red Tail Upper | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Assholes of August | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Would be 5.7 at Squamish
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Sun 18th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Et Tu Brutus | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Traverses quite a way so easier to clean on second
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Thu 15th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Lieback Flake | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Takes some gear and has a bolt
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5.10c | ★ Geritol | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt easier than flying circus, nice crimps and edges up a dyke, yay, face climbing!
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Tue 13th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute Quagmire Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Quagmire crack | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite tricky in places but I found 2 knee bar rests
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Mon 12th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Dessert Dyke | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Felt a bit desperate seconding with a pack on
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5.10a | ★ Dessert Dyke | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Felt a bit desperate seconding with a pack on
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Sun 11th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Picket Line | 35m | ★ Good | |||
A bit Ledgy, but quite nice
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Sun 11th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Lower Crag X | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Centre Street - with David Gray | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Long and subtle
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Sat 10th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute Starr Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Slap and Tickle | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing, though not sure how it's meant to end, bailed to the right
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5.9 | ★ Under the Mercy | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good for a short climb
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5.10a | ★★ Paul's Crack | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Numb fingers at the start with the crack still a bit wet
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Thu 8th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Papoose | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Centrefold - with David Gray | 120m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty cruxy at points, nicely led by Dave while I snuffled my way up behind him
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Wed 7th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Unearthly Delights | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Giving the new shoes a burn. I need a new body though
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | ★ Good | |||
All over after the start
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Tue 6th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth | ||||||
5.10a | ★ It's Not Easy Being Green | 25m, 2 | Average | |||
Ok, and yes the poor frog is still there.
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5.10a | ★ Hungry Hungry Hippos | 22m | Average | |||
Was a bit damp
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Mon 5th Jun 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Zip | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Crystal Ball | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Blowing away some cobwebs, nice to be out climbing at 8pm after sleeping all day
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5.10a | ★★★ The Zip | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Even jet lagged and flu ridden I could appreciate the quality of this route
|
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Sun 14th May 2017 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
19 | Final Friction | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Looks pretty new, ok, a boulder problem on a rope
|
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Sun 14th May 2017 - Berowra | ||||||
Glamorpus Area | ||||||
17 | Black hand crack | 10m | Average | |||
Just as the rain hit. Must have been done by someone, climbs ok, more under clinging than jambing
|