Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 1st Feb 2014 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
another shot, got to the usual spot before falling but felt realy good, locked off nice and tight but tried the new beta and threw myself off haha. oops! sort of felt like i could have done it this go, had i stuck to my original plan. never let fatigue change your mind! just rest and try again. soon!
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27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
draws on, refreshing my memory. been a little while!
|
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Mon 27th Jan 2014 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Caves Area | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ She Who Snoozes | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow! I loved this route, nice slab, tackle the reindeer antlers in the roof, pull the lip trying not to get too pumped for the tricky and technical finish! Delicious. Get on it!
|
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26 27 | ★★ Absinthe (Absynthe) | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had a go, fell doing long move after 4th. tired after big 3 days climbing. made it to the top in 2 sits. Love this route.
|
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26 27 | ★★ Absinthe (Absynthe) | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Draws on, playing on different sections. Really good! for me this route is the classic on this wall. Hard, burly and sustained.
|
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Mon 27th Jan 2014 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Ocean Vista Area | ||||||
19 20 | ★ Indi and The Ninja | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
warm up. climbed in a billion knot winds. was exciting!
|
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Sun 26th Jan 2014 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Progress today. Climbed to 4th bolt clean, but got a bit too high before clipping and fluffed around and came off. went to top in 2 more sits, realised what I was doing at the end would be too strenuous.
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed through the start clean again to 3rd bolt, but sat there. went through to the last bolt, and played around with the end after Tom K-O told me another way. seems good, eliminates an extra move.
|
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20 | ★ Dave | 12m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up. Fun
|
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Sun 19th Jan 2014 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Much more playing. Can do the start, and can do the moves from first bolt to 4th bolt. I think I do 10 or 11 knee bars.
|
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First good bit of progress. Rested at 1st, clean to 4th, rested then clean to last bolt. Was very knackered after 2 days of Capital Spankishment so I am amped about that!!
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20 | ★ Friends in High Places | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Had some beta, and worked well. I had a lot of fun on this and will do it again. good warm up for the mind and body.
|
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Sat 18th Jan 2014 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A 'thrash down' attempt. fell off near the end, then back cleaned for Todd who sent this day!
|
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20 | ★ Dave | 12m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
pretty funky, nearly fell off at the end mantle thing! access for David Lee Roth.
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
playing around for a while with different things, working moves..(getting spanked)
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
mental note: none of this route helps you warm up.
|
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Mon 13th Jan 2014 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First shot. Woah. Used my imagination alot, dogged to the anchor and pulled a couple of draws along the way. Figured out the back rest straight away which was cool. LOTS to do still.
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
More playing. started to figure out some way of doing the hard bit after 3rd bolt. Needs more work. but I am excited to do so!
|
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Sat 11th Jan 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
25 | ★★ Pompeii | 27m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard, Rad, Technical, and aesthetic. Not to mention Pompy!
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Pyroclastic | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Attempted in vain as a 'warm up' this day, when it was 23. got smoked! tried again later and got double smoked. cool though!
|
||||||
20 | ★ Plinian Eruption | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Really fun, wacky, exciting route.
|
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Mon 6th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lyptus | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sweet, really really good the whole way to the chain. Loved it.
|
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23 | ★★★ Lyptus | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Last route of the trip! OS to the big move. close. Tomic gave some good beta and I went to the anchor clean.
|
||||||
Mon 6th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Ancient Mariner | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! short lived crimpy crux into nice climbing up the face.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Mr. Curly | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great warm up.
|
||||||
21 | ★ Cowboy Clip | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A bit of fun. got a bit pumped after taking a little long to pull the lip. confused by someones tick marks!
|
||||||
Sun 5th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Pulpit Rock Bellbird Wall area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ YAKs in Space | 16m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
After my epic spanking i couldnt muster the first few moves. from first bolt to anchor clean. Just as good as last time, awesomeness.
|
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23 | ★★ The Next Doctor | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, a chorus of wooden spoons spanked me to pieces on this pitch! start crimping like a bastard from the belay, no footers, then if your hat is still on continue to slog it out up the sustained, wandery and difficult orange wall. Bloody excellent climbing and position mind you, just going to take a couple more shots!
|
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22 | ★★ The Next Doctor Pitch 1 | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rad long pitch, has a lot of nice climbing on it too. enjoyed it the whole way.
|
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Sat 4th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★★ Kathy K | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had a go, fell off mid crux feeling a little tired. fell again and the end of the crux, then to anchor. cool route, ill be back on for sure.
|
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25 | ★★ Kathy K | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Putting draws up and a bit of working, boulder start to rest, pumpy shouldery crux sequence, to a pumpy top section that you could blow at any point until at the anchor.
|
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Sat 4th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pallets of Pies | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried to just do a big lunge this time, but couldn't hold on. oh well! Mitch schooled me on this route.
|
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24 | ★★ Pallets of Pies | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
"I want to try onsight this" next minute fall off the first move! Tricky boulder start that ended up taking a few shots to work out, probably V3, to ledge where you can have a tea party. then blast the steepness proper on jugs to high crux.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Pallets of Pies | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
fell at the top long move, thought I had a way to do it with a heel hook but it failed me.
|
||||||
Sat 4th Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
21 20 | ★ Scramble Syndrome | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went easily next go, it is a shame it doesn't go on like that for longer! lack of bolts through the easy end keeps it worth doing.
|
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21 20 | ★ Scramble Syndrome | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Haha! fell off another warm up.. oops. must stop being too casual on slabs. I will get spat off.
|
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Thu 2nd Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lady Stardust | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is a little gem, and tricky onsight with a bit of wandering and spicyness! couple that with a bloody tornado trying to pull me off the wall and youve got yourself a good time! dont fall at the second bolt- that will be a bad time.
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Dr Do Little | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Similar to sound and vision, but I held on a bit tighter and read the route better!
|
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20 21 | ★★ Sound and Vision | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
haha, woops! fell near the end of the crux, ended up in a position i couldnt rewind really cool route though.
|
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19 | ★★ Mike and Lorna go to Town | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
fun and varied
|
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18 | ★★ Jolly Good Fellow | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up on our volume day.
|
||||||
Wed 1st Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Pole 28 | ||||||
22 | ★ Just a Little Late | 15m | Average | |||
very cruisy climbing with no hands rests every couple of moves, to a hard crux then really easy finish. Wouldnt have found it overly good even if Id stayed on, but hey- its still climbing.
|
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21 | ★★ Path to Paradise | 15m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Fun warm up.
|
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Wed 1st Jan 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★★ Surprise Package | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Putting draws up, getting beta.
|
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24 | ★★ Surprise Package | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Put it away. Rad fun, Funky route with a climatic finish. Happy New Year!
|
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Tue 31st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Padington | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Putting draws on, having fun on the tiny holds! Left it to save skin. cool route though.
|
||||||
23 | ★ Acceptably Cosmic | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Fun little route. Just keep moving.
|
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Tue 31st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Billy Bunter | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
first route this trip.
|
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Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
23 | ★★ Gethsemene | 18m | ★ Good | |||
OG onsighted, like a boss. I tried in vain to follow suit, this is brutal slabbing with hard to read sequences, poor feet and a shot of chilli pepper. i was well tired by this time, and promptly took to the air at halfway. Dogged the bajebus out of it to get to the anchor, with my tail between my legs. Everyone should climb this.
|
||||||
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Hung on a Tree | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flash attempt after OG looked really solid. HAHA! got spanked hard, let this word grow in the keyword section- HEINOUS . barely halfway up, started flailing. was a long shot to back up after Bozon though
|
||||||
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Dungeon | ||||||
25 | ★★ Bozon | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Putting the draws on and working, super route, bit of everything. bouldery start, slopers, funky top section that could still spit you off if youre not careful.
|
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25 | ★★ Bozon | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
had a go but glassed off the first hard move. pulled rope and retiied.
|
||||||
25 | ★★ Bozon | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd go, definitely wasnt easy but climbed well where it counted and got the tick. Radical bananas, thanks for some tips and tricks OG!
|
||||||
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First route at Hillwood, with OG. Really Radical, had to think outside the box a bit. This crag has got the funk! great the whole way. 3 stars.
|
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Fri 27th Dec 2013 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
24 22 | ★★ Berts Butter Menthol - with OG | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
DAMN. flashed all the way to top rooflet, and punted it. Keen to get back on this in December with the boys!
|
||||||
25 | ★★★ Neon God | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Onsight pitch 1 for a warm up, first route on Mt Welli. Climbed with OG, completely shrouded in freezing clouds! could not see the belay from the anchor, rope dissapeared into white. Awesome absorbing wall climbing thats never too hard, touch of spice up high and a tricky start. 3 stars love it.
|
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Mon 23rd Dec 2013 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
19 17 | Tinka Extension | 18m | Average | |||
warm up, hot as up the top!
|
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Sat 21st Dec 2013 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
wayy too hot. slimed out of the left pocket coming into MM. then to top clean.
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
waited til the arvo, was a little cooler and got a new highpoint. feet were wrong, I think I had a chance this lap. one hang again. cool!
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
draws on
|
||||||
16 | ★ Tinka | 13m, 8 | Average | |||
warm up
|
||||||
Thu 19th Dec 2013 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
draws on, cleaning holds etc. First time sticking the move after the cross through into MM.
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had a go, tried different beta on the traverse which sucked, fell same spot. climbed to top of MM clean after a short rest. sweet.
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried again with less in the tank but climbed well, fell same spot but controlled the hold for a while, needed to get feet right. a shade closer!
|
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18 | ★ TOS | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
warm up, up and down in runners.
|
||||||
Thu 19th Dec 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wailer | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very tired/pumped, got through the crux and fell at the last hard move! surprised myself. this is a real nice route too. cool beans.
|
||||||
25 | ★★ Wailer | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
'Flash Attempt' got lost at the crux.
|
||||||
Wed 18th Dec 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Howler | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
draws on
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Howler | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thats better! Great route, sting in the tail.
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Procrastislider | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up. w/Duncan. heaps better way to do these routes i reckon!
|
||||||
Mon 16th Dec 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
End of the day play to see how it felt. the only good outcome was the splits rest didnt hurt my knee anymore. The rest spanked me. Hangover beatdown.
|
||||||
27 | ★★ The Antipump | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
WOW. This is a gem, totally agree it deserves more attention. Thanks Eric for the stickclip 2nd bolt beta, I would have decked for sure. Needs a bit of a clean (cobwebs/dust) but I'm excited to see how it goes. Felt like I was playing Twister with a Contortionist and a Boa Constrictor.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor? | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool beans. Hard in the state I was in! cut loose twice, stayed on to the end. Team sendage w/Tracey
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor? | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up and remember the moves. hungover as hell. with Tracey
|
||||||
Wed 11th Dec 2013 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
25 | ★★ Bikinitown Direct | 18m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
draws down at the end of the day for Tarryn who is getting very close!
|
||||||
23 | ★ Crime Capital | 17m | Average | |||
Many others would give this a 'dont bother' but I think every route deserves at least one shot. Just barely got through the rooflet with some knee trickery and a credit card crimp, route then takes you left away from the bolts, then up into a huge loose block. Helmets a must, and that thing needs glue or a crowbar asap! damn its hard to climb gently when you are pumped.
|
||||||
23 | ★ The Pink Poodle | 17m | ★ Good | |||
A lot better than I expected, I would do it again. one day haha. hard crank to pull the lip
|
||||||
17 | ★ Rock n Surf | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
better rock, big holds, nicer climbing. half a star.
|
||||||
19 | Are We Dancer | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
I didnt enjoy this route. Valencia is a much better/ safer access to sunbowl! Did it to work towards my 'tick the cliff'.
|
||||||
Mon 9th Dec 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Howler | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
fell on last move, too tired this go. til next time.
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Howler | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
onsite flail attempt in the blazing sun.
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Howler | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
working
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Howler | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
silly fall moving to last last crux oops!
|
||||||
Sat 7th Dec 2013 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | ★★ Bombay Rock | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
warm up and draws on for Jarryd who ticked today! yeww
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
draws on
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
had a burn to try get to MM, did the cross through, fell moving to the decent pockets on MM.
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
one more burn but was too trashed. fell one move earlier. im psyched on this now!
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
climbed to big pocket clean then worked the crux for a bit. cliff was busy so came down and went up MM to get out of the way and keep trying. figured out something that works.
|
||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
draws on
|
||||||
Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
batman to first bolt, clean to anchor in my Trail shoes. socks would have been grippier! cleaning for friends at the end of the day
|
||||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Did everything perfectly, even with 40 odd crew chattering below me! managed to find my tunnel vision and it went really well! Proud.
|
||||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
draws on, refine crux beta
|
||||||
24 | ★ Beer, Boobs and Jerky | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Came backto try do it after ticking Screaming, and just squeaked it in! good fun.
|
||||||
24 | ★ Beer, Boobs and Jerky | 10m | ★ Good | |||
had a play to suss it out with Nick Foster
|
||||||
Sat 30th Nov 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
woo! nice to repeat at the end of the day.
|
||||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
3 more goes, much better conditions, and got a bit higher then fell due to a mistake. pulled straight back on and went to the anchor clean. Closer!
|
||||||
Sun 24th Nov 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
3 goes today, only last one was decent though! clean to crux again. I should really hang on the bolt and work some beta for that bit? felt a bit rushed with everyone around and it was a terrible sweaty day.
|
||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
last climb of the day, fell going for undercling. great to see the fellas going hard on this today!
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Nov 2013 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
27 | ★★★ The Pumping Jetty | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
made it from green room to bikinitown, but the big hole is wet as and cant rest. plus the next moves are hard. climbs really well for a link up/traverse, going to be fun I think! love the cross through move into metermaids.
|