Routes in World for selected grade

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004 and replaced 2021. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at its best.

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt.

Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

Cue '90s era gangsta rap. Originally given a different name, the first ascentionist has requested that it now be known by this name. Excellent steep climbing, and the classic Nowra 25. Start where the undercut roof touches the ground (at a ring bolt).

Sit start low and move through beautiful slopers to roof and finish up jugs. The best problem in the Balkans?

Tsz Ying Yau

Already a classic.

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular outing on some of the best rock at the crag. A hold snapped late 2015 making the moves past the 2nd last bolt a little harder, but doesn't change the grade.

Sit start at the small cave. Move right and up to top.

Classic pumper in the middle of the wall - get a ticket and get in line. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential.

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off. Find a gullible seconder to clean.

Sit start, pinch, squeeze and wiggle your way up the knife edge arete.

Mauricio Chino

The right most line on the wall before the corner.

Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'.

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block). Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

Classic endurance pumper. Thin start (like everything here) then trend up left for a couple of bolts then back right following the jugs until short flake and heartbreak exploding arms finish under rooflet. The bolts on this route are part new and old - with bolts 1, 4 and 5 still being the originals and probably also suspect.

The crag classic!!

Crux down low but plenty of funky holds and tricky moves to keep you pumping all the way to the top.

A total Nowra classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a bit of exposure. This route starts in the exposed cave above the closed Mini Wall. Do not abseil down Mini Wall to get off - scramble off instead.

This second climb established at the cliff is a demanding steep route, start from the little cave. Avoid doing a double heel hook no hands rest at the 3rd and you'll walk away without ruptured abbs like visiting Brit Ben Heason!

3 UB's up the shallow corner and slab to base of the steep wall with seam running up it. Long and strong moves on big holds up this (welcome, gym climbers) to ledge. Two rings off the ledge then move R into the the sustained finish of Over The Falls.

Ultra classic. Mostly superb jugs to a rest just before the redpoint crux right at the end. Take a ticket!

Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastons. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of Ben Trovato Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).

Slab to some tricky pocket pulling. Sustained headwall also not a giveaway. Probably the stiffest 25 here.

Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug.

Short intense bouldery little number. Bit of a one-move-wonder ...

Varied and interesting. Rebolting has led to sudden popularity.

The climb finishes at the top anchor after the mantle, then either down climb or lower and rethread at the initial anchor to avoid trashing your rope. If you don’t go to the top you haven’t done the climb!

Great climbing which has always suffered from muddy runoff when it rains. Please brush the route when you are working it to keep the holds in good order.

Through thuggy roof and onto the wall. Move hard right (don't continue up the arete) and continue up the nice pumpy wall.

A classic of the wall. Tricky crimpy start but persevere as the jugs of glory aren't far off but that's when the pump really sets in. Gentle on the flake, it probably needs to be fixed. While the routes to the left stay dry in the rain, the first half of this route seeps.

U-bolts then FH's. Up easy corner as per original, but then straight up the face. Really great pocket moves. Some deviate briefly into OTF just before the ledge which makes it easier. Possible to go direct - both are fun.

Sit start on the massive juggy pocket and move up passing a bad RH sloper

Obvious crag classic!

Sit start on the right side of the cave. Head left via some funkiness to top out up the ramp.

Ainhoa Martinez Sam May

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

Start just R of the boulder. The short right-facing corner.

Climb The Green Room to the ledge and instead of going right, climb directly up without deviating past 4 UB's to another anchor.

One of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug.

Jordan Maxwell

Mikha Liem

George Li

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

Go up SHGTTD and continue in the YCT extension. Adds more climbing to a short route but no change in grade.

Popular steep climbing. Climb up juggy cracks and flakes to the biggest roof at Binary Cave. Crank over this with a bouldery lip move then up great orange headwall. Two long draws in the roof help reduce rope drag.

The plum line of this sector. Start 3m L of SD and climb all the way to the tippy top with the lower-off on the ship's prow.

Den on High Tension

Start L of the blunt arete. Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

The square arete on the R side of the main wall. Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought.

Sit start on the curving crack. Move left using pockets and crimps. Traverse into the higher of the two rails and finish as for "The Show Must Go On"

Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts.

Classic Mountains 25. One of the bestest at the grade. Tricky flake to steep thuggy roof to pumpy headwall - awesome. Start approx 20m left of approach hand-over rope below right trending flake feature.

Starts as for Bachelor Busted Balling Bimbo but breaks left at mid height and and finishes above the crux on Shocked. Was 24 for years but most people feel it's fair at 25.

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though).

Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.

Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.

The right arete is a classic that has a sting in the tail. Sit start on the underclings and climb up left past a pocket and into slopey finish.

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

One of the most obvious 'lines' on this wall and the first route bolted by Monty in the Ben Trovato Renaissance period. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.

1. 30m (23) Straight up to the base of the right facing and left leading big flake. Follow this to final tricky layback finish (this final flake is sounding very hollow, take care (or fix it)). Best to extend bolts on the right of the flake (60cm+ draws), so that your rope isn't pulled in over the sharp-ish edge of the flake. If you are only doing the first pitch use the lower offs before the ledge. Otherwise, continue up to the giant staple.

2. 25m (25) Balancy start then blast straight up the gorgeous orange wall above with final death by crimp section. Belay on ledge at double rings.

3. 30m (24) Pumpy conclusion up the steep wall and corner above with a baffling reachy thin section down low. Either lower off the double rings just below the top or dirty mantle out to belay from a tree.

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

An awesome route, with an infamous runout finish. This is the leftmost route on the ledge, about 20m R of the chopped access steps. Take note, it's easy to muck this one up. When you clip the final bolt on the traverse, you'll climb left along a rail and see an anchor up and left. This is NOT your anchor (it's the cleaning anchor for Wipe Out's extension). Instead, after the L traverse, hand traverse back right to Sail Away's anchor. See the topo photo for clarity.

The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic

Start up juggy rooflet, then some good rock and powerful climbing right up until the anchors.

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

Go go stop. The best of the harder routes at the Binary Cave Steep bouldery start trending right to rooflet then straight up the gorgeous orange wall on small sloping holds to an easier finish.

The far left hand edge of the cliff. Essentially a one sequence wonder with a tricky V4/V5 boulder problem crux in the middle. Clip the first bolt on "How Much is a Duck Worth" then move left and follow the line of bolts with increasing difficulty to the anchors.

Start just R of Padington. Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

Hug your way up this overhanging block.

Start: Sit

Phillip Booth | Mauricio Chino

M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet.

Start up TDLW for three UBs, then trend slightly L past FHs up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

Start route directly under the one and only bolt on very small crimps. Extremely thin crimping up blank face. Finishes on small ledge with DBB.

1. 25m (25) This pitch doesn't get done much since Deep Play was established, the latter being easier with much lower ropedrag and admin.

2. 40m (25) This is the "money pitch". Mostly Bolts (about 8), a few pieces of trad gear where the climbing is easier.

A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to Dazed And Confused. Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 or 1982 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

1. 36m (25) Climb the overhanging diagonal crack right of "Kingdom Come" to the top of the peapod. Step right and go up the crack to double ring-bolts at 20 metres. Continue to ledge.

2. 10m (16) Move left and follow the wide crack to the next ledge. Go a few metres L.

3. 25m (21) Thin jamming up the superb crack.

The classic of the crag

Classic 25 pumper, crank the steep start then keep pumping up the wall of jugs.

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

One of the best routes at Tianjara and a classic for the grade! Sustained climbing on bulletproof orange sandstone! Closest climb on the right of chimney, follow ring bolts which replace old hangers. Shared start then trend right at Y split.

Sit start on slopey edge. Make a hard move up left to a slopey edge and continue to top out as for White Destiny. Bring a brush!!

V4 Stand Start, V5 Sit Start

The grand classic of this wall. One of the best routes of this style in the mountains. Rebolted 2004.

Jumping off the stool instead of just pulling on drops it to 24.

Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.

Great route with a couple of bouldery sections - including a massive reach/dyno depending on your stature. Stick clip. Often has birds nesting in the big break on the right, particularly in spring. Have a look, and stay off if you see signs of a nest.

Start in the back of the cave same as The Low Side but pop out the right side of the roof and up the slopey ramp.

Graded 24 until a large jug ripped off, courtesy of Mr Baker. Now a soft-touch 25 power-endurance fest. Takes the left most chalked weakness past a line of rings bolts and positive holds to a fingery crux at the last bolt. One of the best routes at the Summit.

Crimpy face climbing with a high crux.

Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'), reach the juggy break and head up and right through scoop.

Mauricio Chino

M7,L8,R9,L10,R11,L12,M12

Don't bust a tendon!

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Batman then up right.

Start up Grape Hour into the finish of Grey Power. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

One of the best routes in Thailand, maybe the world? Take 15 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

1. Same first pitch as 'Circus Oz', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

2. Straight up over two bulges, then slightly left to the anchor on a big ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

3. Slightly left and straight up. 11 titanium bolts.

4. Towards the right through steep rock. 10 titanium bolts.

5. Short pitch to the left on sharp rock, just to reach the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend by rapping down three times with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Start at the back of the cave on the obvious chalked holds. Move out the left side of the roof and continue up the front face via slopey holds (keeping right of the cluster of big jugs).

Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out.

The holds bite. A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

Start off cairn with committing move, then pumpy steep climbing to left set of anchors on the slab directly above last bolt.

Sit start at small tree on left of cave, traverse right and finish up Hollow Mountain Dreaming. Mauricio Chino

The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.

Start on top of boulder as for Dictator in a Deerstalker but step immediately right, then up.

Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings. Holds broke recently making it a bit harder.

Steep start, follow the corner then up.

Excellent Quality route and probably one of the best at the grade in Yangshuo, From crimp, jugs to some tufa wrestling.

Upgraded in the 2019 guidebook. 5m left of MF, just left of small tree leaning against cliff. Steep juggy start up to big roof. Monkey across imposing roof flake then up super headwall.

The original route here - and used to be protected by only one bolt! Start at the first `weakness' right of the overhanging section. Hard move over overhang to shallow left facing corner, follow this with increasing difficulty to where it ends. Traverse hard left to a tricky mantle and good face climbing up wall above - some wires or slings help with extreme run-out to anchor.

Fantastic route! Start as for Toyland but instead of traversing along the overlapping flake, push straight upwards towards the anchors. Now the preferred version. There is potential for a small wire to be placed in between the second and third bolts to stop a probable ground fall off not inconsequential moves, it seems the placement is tricky to spot though.

Start on the cobble under the roof. After a dynamic RH move from the crimp rail to a good hold on the lip, smack your LH up to the sloper. A difficult mantle makes the send feel hard-earned yet satisfying. Aptly named for the sharpness of the holds.