Routes in World for selected grade

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up.

As 'Boogie Knights (Original)', but exiting right of the horn via jugs as on 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Significantly easier finish than the original.

Start: Sit

Mauricio Chino

Awesomely popular kneebar fest, a “must do” crag classic! Usually always draws on it, but take a long draw for the 6th bolt if not. Then commit to the second half and enjoy the air below you. 2nd pitch is not completely established.

1. 20m (27) - 9 bolts

2. 17m 'Open Project' left and up from the anchor. All the way up to the high anchor. Bolting not finished

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug.

This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall.

Traverse right out lip of cave to tough mantle then finish up easy slab.

Oliver Chen

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

Climb Spoonman and after the crux, at the large jug rest, continue tending leftwards up 5 new bolts, staying off the route to the left. The route finishes on a single hanger with a ring just below joining Spoonmonster.

Note: I opted to not climb to the Spoonmonster anchor as the rock quality is poor, sharp and dusty and adds nothing to the route in terms of difficultly or quality.

Rebolted 2004. A great climb! There is a slight right hand variant that avoids the crux and the best moves which is referred to as Dirty Linen, 26. Roman

Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread).

Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.

1. 30m (24) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. The best way to do it is to start up Vespasian's Wall for 3 bolts, then traverse right into rising line of bolts. (The original grade 23 start used to have a large dead tree to stand on to reach the first holds. Now its a stick clip and awkward batman, so just do the new start which is longer and more sustained).

2. 25m (24) The right line of bolts directly above the three bolt belay. Long sustained orange wall - a couple of crazy fragile features spices things up. Finish at last good jugs at lower-off.

3. 12m (28) Link this from pitch 2. Either belay from P1 mini ledge - or the ground. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake!

Traverse right to left as for Cruel Sea into the heuco, but then cut out the crux sequence by going straight towards the topout as for Dead Calm. Stay low all the way with the "upper V5 Lip" being out.

Kiu Hei Chu | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso (No cut beta)

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

Batman start. Long and varied with a sting in the tail. Popular!

Start up Onions to 3rd bolt then head left into Veteran's Affair. Rebolted 28-03-19

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

Don't go getting offended by the route name, once again this was comment on what was happening in society (Black Death in Custody) when the routes were climbed and the music being listened to. Continuing the tradition of excellent 28's at Nowra. Backup anchor added in 2004. Start: Start 2m to the right of EFTDF. The undercling at the crux snapped off around 2012-13, but there's still a sequence.

Short flake to start. Finishes up left above small roof. Partially rebolted.

Possibly the best rock and route in 'Centennial Glen'. A perennial favourite. Start at the vague arete on the left side of the terrace (5m left of 'Junket' Pumper) by mantelling on a ledge.

Climb the fun first 3/4 of "the boob" and then traverse merrily left on more unlikely pockets. A tricky sequence gains you access into the end crux of “Cosmic Caveman”. Classy movements on holds that are never too poor or spikey. *9/05/17 moved anchors slightly, couldn't remove one of the old anchors as it was stripped, don't use captive ring - will remove.

Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Hang Ten.

Starts 2m L of 'Pulse' up vague flake feature.

This climb has a lot to offer with a fun start to a good rest then the crux awaits. How many draws can you skip???

The first climb at DF, and widely considered to be one of the absolute best routes at any grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Giles sure knows how to pick them.

The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems.

Start: Sit

Marcus Lim

Start from the small boulder. Powerful over horizontal moves through the ceiling then up the hard steep wall above.

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

Has been called the best 28 in the world. The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26, maybe still is. Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

Gabriele G

This route is an absolute blast and a NSW classic. It climbs the longest line through the massive roof. Excellent. Start up the corner and slab on the left hand side of the Grease Cave.

Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling.

A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds.

CMCC

Start on the R face of the sharp ravine in The Lower Main Cliff just past Owl Pillar.

Stickclip the rightmost RB then up the overhanging wall of the ravine past 4 more RBs. The climb originally finished here at grade 22, but now continues leftwards with hard technical moves past 3 FHs to anchor. Keep left at the second last bolt and stay on the line-of-most-resistance—breaking right through the corner feature is LSD.

Sit start, out the middle of the roof finishing left over the rounded lip.

Jack Folkes

Sit start matched on little input edges and a sidepull. Climb straight up to top out. Getting your butt off the ground is no easy feat.

Straight up from the LH belay past 6 FH on nice orange rock to the break below the steep wall. The business starts here (permadraw). Very nice climbing on interesting features give classic moves all the way to the chains. 60m rope required for the top lower off or 70m to get back to the ground.

Sit start in the back of the cave on the obvious chalked side-pull, then it's crimps and slopers to the end. Finish up as for "Werner Heisenburg".

Phillip Booth

Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face.

Start up 'LAMOP' to 5th bolt then go right 6 more bolts to Space Odyssey's anchor. A long pumpy route.

An area classic that is more technical than it first looks. Sit start on good holds in the low seam and climb up and leftwards, making the most of a variety of challenging slopers!

If you use the line of sidepulls and underclings going out right at the start, then you are on the right-hand variant V4 (but you won't be the first to be mistaken!).

Phyllis climbs Riding Shotgun!

Sit start on a LH pocket and a RH big sloper/slot. Climb straight out via pockets and slopers to top out stood on the slab.

Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

The original route up the right side of the wall, to anchors beneath final bulge. This used to be 26.

Sit-start at the back of the cave on obvious holds and follow the nice line out of the cave. Mantle to top-out.

Start at base tot he left and use good holds to first bolt, then ape your way to the break for a rest. Traverse with poor feet to crux then powerful moves to the top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMIDRboCFb4

Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side.

Awesome pumper. Face, roof, then however you like up the headwall, all the options have been done so use the holds, or don’t, whatever.

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake to top out on the far right side of the wall.

From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards.

Jump from one break to the next and traverse left as far as you like. The grade is the number of inches you are under 6'7' times by 2/3.

Phillip Booth Dylan Hill

M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5

Good problem! Hold that last swing.

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors.

Sit-start on low pockets. Powering straight up and veering right, leads you to an easy mantle out. An exceedingly popular face-climb!

Thin start and up to long moves into the first crux of 97% Fat Free, then trend up and left to jugs below roof. Follow jug rail out left, turning lip and finishing up final headwall. Has a recent addition of a redirect biner before the roof for when cleaning.

Start as for Ass Backwards and move up to slopey features. Dyno from here up right to the worn white jug on the face....like a boss! Top out. (Good holds used for Ass Backwards, up from the slopey feature are out - besides why would you not want to do the dyno?)

Start under the cave, traverse right, crux is move through hanging block then right onto face and up.

Start on the underclings and go straight up to top out as for The Percival Extension. Settling at 7ish down from V9 with a breakage.

Start on the good holds below the seam and head up via the enhanced slots and the "potato" hold and match on the finishing sloper.

Classic at the grade. Great funky moves on good rock up the slab to awesome conclusion on fairly unique scoops. Rebolted 2004.

Sit start as for Cool and straight up 45 degree wall, Jugs out R are off.

Marcus Lim

Chris Beers

Alternative Beta to the Dyno: Mauricio Chino

Start on good hold on the left side of the corner and head left out the roof. The separate boulder at the base of the start is not in for hands or feet.

Start: Sit

Sit start at left of cave. Head straight out to the face and then head right to finish up the ramp. Back wall/ledge is in.

Stephen Rawls Peter

Sit-start on the horizontal on the right-side of the cave and head up via a sidepull and pinch to the slopers. Dyno for the flat-top jug to finish. Originally given V6.

Ryan

Uhuru Channel static finish!

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

Ross pulled himself out of a slump and sent this in 26 shots, about 4 every weekend for many weekends! Stick clip first bolt. This beautiful right sweeping, ever hardening line is worth singing and dancing about!

Eliminate for 'Battle of the Shirts'.

Sit start then up the two beautiful pockets to the slot and mantle over. All other holds on the face are off.

Phillip Booth

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

A pocket boulder gem. Tricky and funky start getting easier leading up to the sand pit. Get a good rest then knuckle down through and couple big moves and a wicked stretchy pocket boulder top.

Off break through crimps and pinch then jump to sidepull up right and delicately to top. Sit start has been done but it's not worth it.

Sean Morris

Climbs direct through the steepness into the crux of 'Song and Dance Man'.

Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high.

Crimpy and sustained. At the 5th bolt it makes sense to move R into Nitro for a few moves before punching back L. The back wall is off limits until you're at the anchors. Some folks say 27. Log a personal grade and let the algorithm decide.

Start as for the first 3 bolts of 'Entergalactic Ceiling' then branches left and up sustained head wall. Finishes at the anchor of Entergalactic Ceiling.

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?

An amazing line through some steep bulges. It will work your shoulders and test your footwork as you try to unlock its hidden secrets.

Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face. Up crack before stepping left into the difficulties. Finishes out right up easier ground to DRB.

Notable for an early send by Christine Gambert (FR) in 1986, when it was 29, likely the first female ascent at either grade in AU. Was also the first route in AU given grade 29, originally done by stepping L higher than is now the norm, but has slipped to 28.

Rightmost climb on the ledge, directly left of the Via Ferrata. A classic journey with an amazing mix of climbing.

Start inside cave on the left. Obvious hole leads to shelf and joins Shinkansen at the compression moves. Finish as for Too Soft.

An absolute classic. Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake into the slopey middle topout. Originally graded V8 but vandals and time have reduced the grade.

A 20m roof in Sydney and on good rock. Fun gymnastic climbing. Big holds but upside down absolute pumper. The right most route in the cave heading far left out following the pockets and scoops to join the Riot Wing at the large flake, follow it to the anchors. This route was bolted as a tag team effort by Matt and Neil over three weekends. Crawling up into crouch cave after midway gives you a very long 24.

6b for 5 bolts to the first anchor. Two more bolts to second anchor. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

A direct start on the steep wall punching into the scoop.

George Li | Phillip Booth

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Make sure you mantle the ledge at the anchor to get the tick! Anchor has been placed too low.

Crag Classic. Sit start at base of slopey rail (RH crimp, LH crimp under bulge- see topo). Head up and left to finish on jugs. Excellent.

Sit start 4m right of Wiggly Boy between the tree and the boulder on the shallow pockets in the vague seam. Move up on edges and mantle.

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve.

Start this crag classic, on the left side of the big tree- matched on the predominate jug. Traverse the big bulge to a powerful, morpho slap. Finish up and left.

Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

Superb technical and powerful climbing the whole way, requiring much more fitness than most Blue Mtns routes. The pumpy runout finish just adds to what is a truly memorable route.

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'The French Connection' (Stickclip the first) before splitting right into a flexibility, dependant crux. If you're like Glen you can just campus it!

Start 0.5m R of B. Runout bottom half (3 bolts where Black Heathen has 6!), excellent top half.

A great and sustained linkup. Start up the first 3 bolts of Paint God, clip a new 4th bolt and do a hardish move to join Games Without Frontiers just in time for its crux. Then step left and finish up Apple Pie.

The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).

1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past RB and up reachy wall past wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 RBs + wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground).

2. 20m (26) Traverse 5m L from the lower off then up the red scoop (bolt, med cams) into cave above (optional 2no of carrot bolt plates on spacious ledge: pitch 1 originally went to here). Out right side of cave to top and lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is most easily approached via Mr V.

Another ultra classic. Steep pumper with many quality boulder problems split by good rest jugs. A very unique crux.

Start up the first 4 bolts of LRNP and keep on heading up.