Aiuto

Upper Pharos Gully

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Stagionalità

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Descrizione

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Avvicinamento

Up the gully past Huey Wall, or along the vague path off the Pharos Gully main track

Etica ereditato da Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Buttress uphill from Voidoid Pinnacle - opposite 'Totally Foxed!'

Right-leading diagonal. From almost at top of seam, step left and go up.

Start: Start under hanging flake on left side of face.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Start on right side of wall. Traverse easily left and finish up weakness left of 'Stranger Than Friction'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Short corner bounding right side of wall.

FA: Ed Sharp, Paul Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1984

Way up the head of the gully, right down on the gully and facing south-east is this little orange wall. It's about 60 metres left of Huey, on the same (north-west) side and facing the same way.

Fairly direct but not the logical line on this wall. From just left of centre go up and right to ledge. Diagonally left along crack, as for Sheer Ecstasy, then go back right up wall on buckets.

FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984

Not quite but you can't blame them for trying. Take the right-left diagonal all the way. Be careful at the end where the tendency is to run it out a little but the ground below is not all that far away.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985

A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off.

FA: Robbie Martin & John Watson, 2013

Start: Up and behind "Huey" is a small wall with a large cave on the right side.

Climb crack to left end of cave, step left and swing up the wall.

Beware the first hold on the left side of the crack is actually a huge detached block which would do serious damage if it pulled off!

Descent: Back and then scramble down and right past base of MOAFHG.

FA: Paul Colyvan, Greg Pritchard & Ed Sharp, 1984

Uphill from the righthand end of the Huey buttress is a prominent grey buttress.

Full value, sustained climbing.

Follow diagonal, starting out of gully, on left side of buttress. At major break, step right and up thin seam.

FA: Robin Miller, Chris Bacter & Dave Gairns, 1985

The finish is a bit runout and insecure, especially if you're not quite tall. Climb arete just right of Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman for a few metres then go up wall immediately left of arete to an exciting finish.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Robin Miller, 1985

Pleasant. Start from the ledge a few metres up and right of Winching Pommies.

Follow weakness up wall right of arete with a hard move in the middle.

FA: Robin Miller, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985

Nice slab. Up seam a few metres right of Crocks On The Rocks and step up right onto wall above, avoiding easy ground on right. Go up and slightly left on delicate wall then back slightly right to finish.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Robin Miller, 1985

Start on south face of grey buttress opposite Crocks On The Rocks, immediately left of huge leaning tree against right side of buttress. Up then diagonally up left to small stance on left above overhangs. Finish steeply.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985

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