Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 13th Oct 2016 - White Rock Conservation Area | ||||||
The Bat Cave | ||||||
V3 | ★ PowPow | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Misread the V8 Topo and climbed this problem. Felt cool enough to be an official problem. Basically avoiding all of the good holds, climb the aggressive, small crimps all the way to the victory jug. Took three goes to complete. V3 felt fair
|
||||||
V6 V4 | ★★ Alfred | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic! But V6 this ain't
|
||||||
V3 | ★★ Robin | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much better than it looks
|
||||||
Thu 13th Oct 2016 - White Rock Conservation Area | ||||||
Little White Rock Antiquity area | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Antiquity | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool problem. A couple of goes today before heading to the cave area. Almost topped out at my last attempt; make sure you brush the topout, it requires some friction
|
||||||
V3 | ★ 4 | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 | ★ 5 | 2m | ||||
V1 | ★ 6 | 2m | ||||
V2 | ★ 9 | 2m | ||||
V2 | ★ Yogitoes | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Balance Bitch | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 1st Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Woody | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ The Woody | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fucking awesome! A must do for anyone who is staying in the campsite nearby.
|
||||||
Mon 28th Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder | ||||||
V0- | ★ The usual descent - with Sam Clark | 5m | ||||
V0+ V0 | ★★ Classic high arete - with Sam Clark | 7m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Golden Streak - with Sam Clark | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Damn this thing is slippery. But oh so good!
|
||||||
V0+ | ★ Up nice wall - with Sam Clark | 3m | ||||
V0+ | ★ Wall R of the descent - with Sam Clark | 5m | ||||
V1 | ★ Face and flake - with Sam Clark | 3m | ||||
Thu 10th Sep 2015 - Black Cave | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Aquarius | 7m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good one Niko. On my first run managed to split two of my old finger wounds wide open... Then kept trying to send this with only my index and ring finger operational.
|
||||||
Thu 3rd Sep 2015 - Black Cave | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ Cruel Sea (Lower Lip Traverse) | 8m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
So I am back where I was before with some progress made. Can one arm lockoff and then match inside the "Huecko" followed by very low percentile double toe hook and grab sequence. Still a little off. Need to figure out as to why it works sometimes and not others... At the end of my session discovered how some people think that this problem is soft. See V6 Aquarius, any problems/suggestions feel free to start a discussion.
|
||||||
V4 | ★★ Dead Calm (Left Side) | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent! Felt soft but I had an advantage where I could really compress inside the starting holds.
|
||||||
Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Forestville | ||||||
Sissy Crag | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Short Circuit | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V3 | ★★ I'm Too Sexy For My Cat | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Took 5 goes to send. Short'n'Sweet
|
||||||
V4 | ★★★ The Sexy Wall Traverse | ★★ Very Good | ||||
You will go hedge trimming; but it's worth it. Definitely give those upper holds a brush before you jump on; they are full of dirt and leaves.
|
||||||
Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Killarney Heights | ||||||
Crumbly | ||||||
V8 | ★★★ Sushi Train | 4m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Alright so I watched a youtube video of a guy sending this and realised I had to throw up with my right rather than my left. So... reversed hands; holy crap; yep definitely a V8 now. Can get to the desperate bulge; can not for the life of me bump my hand to the next hold. Even holding that pose requires everything I can possibly give. Need to train harder to acquire beast mode; alternatively if I could make gravity weaker....
|
||||||
Thu 16th Jul 2015 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline Front and Centre | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Sloper-Dan Milosevic | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A quick warmup and a warmdown lap. Quite easy for my bodytype.
|
||||||
V7 | ★★★ Boogie Knights (Boogie Knights (variant)) | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Damn. Tried so many different ways. None of them better than the others. Might be still slightly above my paygrade for the time being.
|
||||||
Thu 9th Jul 2015 - Killarney Heights | ||||||
Crumbly | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Anorexic | 4m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sent. But almost at the ultimate price of snapping my ankle in half. Learned the hard way that the heel hook if positioned as far forward for the most amount of reach may lock in place as you fall. Thank god for spotters. In the end it was the sideward toe hook/drop knee hybrid that did it. Got the match fully static with no swing by having my right foot still inside the mega bulge.
|
||||||
Tue 23rd Jun 2015 - Dark Forrest | ||||||
The Happy Place | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Team Triangle - with Sam Clark | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V5 | ★★ Journey to Anywhere - with Sam Clark | ★★ Very Good | ||||
On the softer side of a V5. Very low on the start. Excellent!
|
||||||
V4 | ★★ The Happy Pyramid - with Sam Clark | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome!
|
||||||
V3 | ★★ What's Golden - with Sam Clark | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 | ★★ We'll never make it out alive - with Sam Clark | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 | ★★ Dead or Alive - with Sam Clark | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4 | ★ Rigor Mortis - with Sam Clark | Don't Bother | ||||
Kneecap and Shin destroying. Don't say I didn't warn you.
|
||||||
V6 | ★★ The Golden Pinch - with Sam Clark | Average | ||||
The pinch (under the conditions I had) has become climbfit/sissy crag quality kind of hold. Caked in chalk and smooth to the point where I would slip off if tried holding on harder.
|
||||||
V9 | ★★★ Viking Invader - with Sam Clark | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Misread it as V7... Solid progress with single rail line toe/heel hook beta. Had to leave before I could work the latter break.
|
||||||
Mon 22nd Jun 2015 - Jessicca's | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Bedside Manner - with Sam Clark | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V5 if you're short. Tried 8 different ways all together. Most ways resulted in my knee hitting the roof or my torso whacking against the upper lip. Found an undercling in the roof; one arm bicept curl brought the send home.
|
||||||
V5 | ★★ No Name 1 - with Sam Clark | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ha! Almost flashed it. Again that bloody long shared throw at the end got me. This micro crag is like being stuck on an island with really rare Pokemon. Trying to catch them all with only a few crappy pokeballs and no way of getting more.
|
||||||
Thu 4th Jun 2015 - Blues Point | ||||||
Life Aquatic Wall | ||||||
V5 | ★ Dislocation Station - with Sam Clark | 5m | Average | |||
Putrid Feet; really wrecks your shoes. Interesting how the rock can be so solid yet so crumbly and perishing at the same time. Not quite sure how to match on that ledge.
|
||||||
Thu 4th Jun 2015 - Blues Point | ||||||
Peeking Patch | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Coal Train Blues - with Sam Clark | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V6 | ★★★ Pockets of Power - with Sam Clark | 4m | ||||
Couldn't reach the starting pocket in any way.
|
||||||
Thu 4th Jun 2015 - Blues Point | ||||||
Kung Fu Captin Wall | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Bruce Lee - with Sam Clark | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tue 2nd Jun 2015 - Black Cave | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Right To Left - with Sam Clark | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
It seems that my memory is not the best when it comes to climbing. Could hardly recall any of the developed beta. But managed to tick it. Awesome!
|
||||||
Sat 18th Apr 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Pipe Dreams | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Pipe Dreams | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V5 | ★★ Upper Pipe Dreams | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A couple of quick fangs for 15min after work.
|
||||||
Fri 3rd Apr 2015 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches The Caves | ||||||
V6 | ★★ Fat Women var | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Raining today. Figured a way to get to the ramp now. Now have some funky knee jam/pull beta. May been able to send it if all the stars aligned. We'll see!
|
||||||
V6 | ★★★ Bring It On | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Warm-up. A little pumpy
|
||||||
Thu 2nd Apr 2015 - Umina | ||||||
The Brown Room Brownroom proper | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Paraplegic | 9m | ★★★ Classic | |||
And sent! However conditions were less than favourable. Damp holds all the way! Very good problem.
|
||||||
Wed 18th Mar 2015 - Iron Cove | ||||||
Callan Point | ||||||
V3 | ★ Oh No You Done Did It | 2m | Don't Bother | |||
Tried 2 times, extremely chossy.
|
||||||
V3 | ★ Afternoon Delight | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4 V3 | ★★ Sky Rockets | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Feels a little light for the grade given. Give it a good brush prior though, seems to collect a lot of sand. Excellent problem and pick of the bunch.
|
||||||
V4 | FA ★★ Aquarius | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought that this was the open project but after figuring out the line realised that I was slightly left of track. Definitely harder than Sky Rockets, but I am reluctant to give it a V5 rating. Maybe with additional traffic it can either go up or remain at V4.
|
||||||
V1 | ★ Did It | 2m | ★ Good | |||
V3 | ★ The Long Way To Did It | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V1 | ★ Exit Stage Left | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 24th Feb 2015 - Forestville | ||||||
Sissy Crag | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Dentalectomy | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too slimy today.
|
||||||
V0 | ★ What Am I Doing Here? | 4m | Average | |||
The hardest v0 on earth
|
||||||
V5 | ★★★ Mr Smiley | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stopped being fun today. Holds we're damp and no amount of chalk helped.
|
||||||
V1 | ★★ The Pillar | 2m | ||||
V4 | ★★ Nuclear winter | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Descent enough.
|
||||||
Sat 21st Feb 2015 - Killara | ||||||
The Big Pump | ||||||
★★★ Mummy Dust | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Came here because we had a couple of showers last night. Ideal wet weather venue my ass! Sure you don't get rained upon but the holds are super slimy about a quarter of the wall is seeping and most of the footers are just pure mud. Not impressed.
|
||||||
Sun 15th Feb 2015 - The Hide Away | ||||||
The Ghetto Cave | ||||||
V0 | Arete - with Dominik S | 5m | ||||
Sat 14th Feb 2015 - East Killara | ||||||
The Promised Land Middle Tier Genesis Left Wing Christianity | ||||||
V3 V2 | ★★ An Amazing Crusade | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent. Should have stars but over-graded by a mile; lets just say that the problem Bill Smith graded V1 at Sissy Crag is harder . Contender for the easiest V3 in all of Sydney.
|
||||||
V4 | ★★ The Devil Wins In War | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice! Had to leave before I could compete this puppy. Will be back!
|
||||||
Sat 14th Feb 2015 - East Killara | ||||||
The Promised Land Middle Tier Genesis Right Wing Christianity | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Thy Mighty Right Hand | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Satisfying to get. If you're struggling due to height and want a bit of advice here it is. I could only do it by cutting all my feet and hands and aiming to the far right. When you reach the hold your legs will swing out turning the sloper into a sideways jug. Use that time to secure yourself and then proceed to topout.
|
||||||
V5 | ★★ Deep In The Belly Of The Whale | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V1 | ★ Water Into Whisky | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V1 | ★ I Solemnly Swear | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 12th Feb 2015 - East Killara | ||||||
The Promised Land Top Tier King Davids Overhang | ||||||
V5 | ★ Out Of The Lions Jaw | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent easy, yet satisfying climbing to a petrifyingly difficult topout. Need to do this with spotters and an extra mat. The sacrificial anvil shaped "widow maker" rock at the bottom of your potential fall-area is not a what we would call an ideal landing zone.
|
||||||
V5 | ★★ Going Goliath | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First dyno is super satisfying. Not sure about the second as soon as I went for it half way up the flight the sun beamed straight into my eyes and I completely missed the hold, and almost my mat. Scared me enough not to attempt again, will be back though,
|
||||||
Thu 12th Feb 2015 - East Killara | ||||||
The Promised Land Middle Tier Genesis Undecided Christianity | ||||||
V1 | ★ By Faith Not By Sight | 3m | ★ Good | |||
25% of the holds aka the remaining ones probably would justify an upgrade in difficulty. Did not trust anything but wanted to warm up before the V6
|
||||||
V4 | ★ Christian Brothers Brothers | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Would be excellent however the right side of the rock is choss-city. Started to brush it all of but the sandstone underneath is very brittle. Just crumbles up. There two less holds now. The grade is an easy 4.
|
||||||
V6 V5 | ★★★ Church Of The Eternal Hug | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hahaha. I think I understand what is happening here. There are two 'main' ways of doing this. You either rely on the left arête or the right. The left looks and feels better, but very hard to get up due to lack of footing. The way of the right, is much better - read easier. The first move is the f€%#>ng bomb! Skipped all the tap dancing by pulling up with my right in a full leaver position. Either way it's the best problem of the crag so far. If you sent V4's then definitely get on it!
|
||||||
Tue 10th Feb 2015 - Killara | ||||||
The Block | ||||||
V1 | ★ Bog on up | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 V3 | ★★ State of origin 1 | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hmm... Did it by skipping straight to the broken lip. Just no way could do the move to it. Either way, nails! After a few attempts the lip was too greasy for any more goes.
|
||||||
V2 | ★★ Ugly arete | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V4 | ★★ Teddybear's picnic | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 9th Feb 2015 - RnR | ||||||
The Overhang | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Engage & Energize | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jug hauling at its best.
|
||||||
V5 | ★ Fluxx (Back to the future) | |||||
The latter part of the traverse is tricky. Must put the heel hooks in perfect position; once your feet cut loose you will scrape the floor!
|
||||||
Wed 4th Feb 2015 - Jessicca's | ||||||
V5 | ★ This Way Out | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really enjoyable! Recommended!
P.S. I used a heel hook on the lower hold off towards the left. I'm assuming that it's okay and there are no special 'no feet'/'no heel hooks' rules.
|
||||||
V3 | ★ Expectant Fathers | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Taxing on the digits. Took a while to commit due to variable landing and no spotters. Last two holds are choss city otherwise would have been an excellent problem. The v5 is the better option.
|
||||||
Sun 1st Feb 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Kenny Boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★★ The Nose | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Made easier by already having done the V5 on the left hand side.
|
||||||
Sun 1st Feb 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
She-Oak Wall | ||||||
V5 | ★★ The Golden Triangle (Sit start) | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A project! Nice!
|
||||||
Sun 1st Feb 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Four Cracks Wall | ||||||
V2 | ★ 13 | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this! Wicked tricep pull-away move you don't get to do that often.
|
||||||
V5 | ★ Razorblade Alley (2) | 4m | Don't Bother | |||
As the french would put it "Oh my got'; eet eez a peaze of sheet" The very sharp kind. If you have the hands of steel you would think is far to easy or after an entire session of bouldering way too hard. Either way nothing to rave about. After trying the first two moves for a few minutes, I skipped them and easily topped out. Those two holds is really where the grade is at and not really worth it IMHO
|
||||||
V0 | ★ 6 - The Layback Crack (6) | 4m | ||||
McJuggen; It's good!
|
||||||
V1 | ★ 12 - Slanting Crack | 4m | ||||
Nice
|
||||||
Sun 1st Feb 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
First Wall | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Ralph's Arete (sit start) | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very good and almost had it. But doesn't add a grade to the V4 by making it slightly harder by making it two moves longer. The difficulty of a boulder problem is judged by how hard the moves are- seldom on endurance.
|
||||||
Sat 31st Jan 2015 - Blues Point | ||||||
Life Aquatic Wall | ||||||
V4 | ★★ ELAP - with Dominik S | 3m | Don't Bother | |||
I really don't understand how this can be a 3 star problem. Desperate and convoluted.
|
||||||
Sun 18th Jan 2015 - Umina | ||||||
The Brown Room Brownroom proper | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Love Jugs - with Dominik S | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sweet!
|
||||||
V4 | ★★ Around the World - with Dominik S | 9m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very Good. Maybe a bit soft for the digits. Ended up going clockwise (but planned in opposite direction). Got really disorientated!
|
||||||
V4 | ★★ Low Traverse - with Dominik S | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Agreed. Better than it looks. My body is prefect for this kind of problem though!
|
||||||
Sat 17th Jan 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Pipe Dreams | ||||||
V4 | ★★ 3 | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4?
|
||||||
V2 | ★★ 4 | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 17th Jan 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Walkdown Wall | ||||||
V1 | ★ 9 - Walkdown Crack | 4m | ||||
V1 | ★ 10 | 4m | ||||
V3 | ★ 7 - Discontinuous Crack | 4m | ||||
Sat 17th Jan 2015 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Kenny Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★ 12 | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn't think that I would get it. Sceptical of the tick feel like I maybe cheated, but can't really tell how. Started off semi seated/standing with my right hand on the broken hold and my left foot inside the small chalked slot - my left hand on sloper, heel hook around the corner followed by using both arrets all the way up to the top...
|
||||||
Wed 14th Jan 2015 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline The Eastern Bloc | ||||||
V4 | ★ Crewcut Sit Start | 3m | Don't Bother | |||
Had a quick look at this problem after my warmup as I didn't have to move any of my gear. Imho the standing start is far better. I had to fold the mat over in order to even reach the first hold. The mono finger slot is just waiting for a pulley rupture. Not really worth it
|
||||||
V1 | ★ Crewcut | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good. But over too soon!
|