Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 30th Oct 2020 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
22 | ★ Welcome To The Thunderdome | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is one of the most recent lines to be put up, and I reckon it’s one of the best! Pretty solid at 22. Great route Jack!
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21 20 | ★★ The Alchemist | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route. Difficult at 11am getting blasted by the sun! Maybe 22?
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Thu 1st Oct 2020 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
21 20 | ★★ Nostrildamus | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing route, good job Matty
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24 | ★★★ Two Men Enter, One Man Leaves | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Full body workout, punted at the anchors. You’ll see
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21 20 | ★★ The Alchemist | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd ascent run, hold broke near the top 😂
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17 | ★ History Never Repeats | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Nice engaging slab
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26 25 | ★★ Good as Gold | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing route, can’t wait to get back on it. I actually think I would have flashed this, had I not been on a gentleman’s sit attempt. Made it through all the business clean and remembered it hadn’t been sent yet so said take at the start of the slab. too gassed for a 2nd or 3rd shot send. Must do.
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21 | ★★ We Can Be Heroes | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb
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23 20 | ★ Bold as Brass | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome position, ending is a bit contrived but overall a great climb
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24 | ★★ Blood Moon | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Early OS attempt foiled after the business by a rogue loose boi. Haven’t been back to it yet. Looks much better now after a few more ascents.
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25 | FA ★★ Metamorphosis | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Wish this was more continuous, but it’s still a great climb. My sequence for the low section turned out to be sub-optimal and consequently knocked a grade off after the other boys worked out a better way.
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23 | FA ★★ Darklight | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Felt like I was squeezing this in when I did it, turned out to be a great little techy nugget
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21 | ★★ COVID Light (Asymptomatic) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The line of least resistance
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22 | ★★ Covid-22 | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sensational route
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24 | ★★ Yesterday's Hero | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A lot more to this than it looks. Awesome climbing through the bulge
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24 | FA ★★ Desert Treasure | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Nice surprise how good this turned out!
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25 | FA ★★ Antipoison | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Awesome position. Fingery, technical and bouldery
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21 | ★★★ Lock Stock | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Completely blank except for what you need. Great!
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19 | ★★ Catastrophist | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb up a cool tower. Gentleman sit when jack bolted it then repeated later because it’s great!
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Fri 29th Nov 2019 - Oatlands | ||||||
Bottom Dam The Yellow Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V2 | ★ Un-named | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice roof warm up
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V3 | ★★ Sanguine Direct | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome! We opted to not use the jugs or the side pull on the V2. Felt right for a 3
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V4 | ★★★ Sanguine | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sick problem. Love the iron cross to the good hold! Fell on the last move on my first attempt. (2)
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V5 | ★★ Roundhouse - Roof pocket variant | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not 5 in my book but a cool problem never the less. First try.
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Mon 25th Nov 2019 - Sand River | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Unquenched | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome, would be classic if longer.
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22 | ★★ Welcome to the Dark Ages | 19m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome! I loved this route, has a bit of everything
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26 | ★ Hold Back the Rain | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought I’d have a look so OG could mock me. OS to between 2nd and 3rd but it was a bit warm for the slopey crimps and I couldn’t get any purchase.
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22 | ★★ Glowing Embers | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Also excellent, for me this is a grade easier than dark ages but I am comfortable with roof climbing. Loved it.
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24 | ★★ Fire Starter | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome route, got mislead multiple times by red herrings.. who the fuck is holding some of that shit?! Fine 2nd time round knowing what I wanted to use. Heartbreaker finish, pretty strong at 24 IMO
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17 | ★★ The Arsonist | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent route, must do at the grade.
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Fri 22nd Nov 2019 - The Paradiso | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Sultan Of Sweat | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow, lived up to the hype! Incredible route. Had I not punted the onsight at the last bolt, I would have been more proud of this ascent than my hardest redpoint. Still, chuffed with my effort, gave it absolute everything and read many hard and strange sequences on the fly. Tidied it up nicely second shot. Must do 25!
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Wed 20th Nov 2019 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Backdoor Block (Dry) | ||||||
V4 V5 | ★★ 2. Aphex Twin V5 (highball, stand) | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool crimp traverse into tall top out above impalement. Sent first try after doing the V3 with the same finish. All 3 of us thought more like a V4.
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V4 | ★ 3. Kiche the Curry Dog (sds) (3. Kiche the Curry Dog V4 (sds)) | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This one is excellent and only spoiled by a couple of sandy footers.
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V3 | ★★ 4. Backdoor (highball, sds) (4. Backdoor V3 (highball, sds)) | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good!
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V2 | 5. V2 (sds) | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Sketchy with the thorns below
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Wed 20th Nov 2019 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Rumble Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Rumble in the Jungle | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Re-tick because it’s a great climb!
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V6 | ★★ Flounder | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only a quick go before leaving but still elusive
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Tue 19th Nov 2019 - Fruehauf | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Couldn’t remember this from when I did it last, felt hard for 22! 23 for me.
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21 | ★ Gibbon Habits | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good moves, rock is a bit meh in the middle.
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21 | ★ Plastic Extras | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Quite good!
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25 | ★ Play Launch Direct Start | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Onsight foiled by the start, found a mingin intermediate which made the move much more controlled. Straight forward 2nd shot.
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17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ★ Good | |||
A bit glassy/greasy
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Sat 26th Oct 2019 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
29 28 | ★★★ Iron Man | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
X2, sussing it out. Really good!
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
29 28 | ★★★ Iron Man | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
X2, sussing it out. Really good!
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 19th Oct 2019 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2 laps
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V nice to re-do this one.
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25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slippery in the stormy, rainy humidity!
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Sat 5th Oct 2019 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt terrible, desperate and awkward. Should have done Screaming first!
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26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Felt great, remembered the beta well.
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go
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24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor? | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
EOD, felt it.
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Sat 28th Sep 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
22 | ★★ Four Seasons | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this ages ago, never logged it.
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24 | ★★ Morning of the Earth | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 25 | ★★ Bird of Prey (Bird Of Prey p1) | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Event Horizon | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Done all the moves now although need to refine the top section. Also need to actually train!
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Sat 27th Jul 2019 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Event Horizon - with Danny John | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Picked this as my get back on the horse project. Steep, fingery and punchy. Got some work to do!
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Sat 20th Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Bad Company - with nathan mcneil | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough for 15, Nath did a great job on lead.
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake - with nathan mcneil | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Greasy in the sun but still great.
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18 | ★★ Angel Rider - with nathan mcneil | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good old Frog!
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Sun 7th Jul 2019 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
24 | FA ★★ No name yet.. - with foztr | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Changed the top sequence and it worked a treat. Actually a really fun route! Great spot up there too.
Side note: the crag is being stupid on my phone and saving while I play around with names. I’ll settle on something soon. |
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Sat 15th Jun 2019 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
24 | ★★ Reign Day (CLOSED PROJECT - REIDO) - with nathan mcneil | 25m | ★ Good | |||
2 more shots today, trundled the wobbly block and gave all the holds a good brush. High point at the last bolt now, though there’s a few thin and powerful moves guarding the chains.
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Sun 9th Jun 2019 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
24 | ★★ Reign Day (CLOSED PROJECT - REIDO) - with nathan mcneil | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Better late than never, decided I better give this thing a sesh. Glad I did! Needs 1-2 wobbly bits removed (they are in the line but not required) did all the moves and clips on lead, think it will be pretty good addition.
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22 | ★ What's The Password? - with nathan mcneil | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
This was good fun! Wish the steeper part was longer. Mind some loose bits at the top.
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Sat 19th Jan 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Banished For Infidelity - with Rob Saunders | 170m | ★ Good | |||
Fun and adventurous outing. Not for the faint of heart, there is a fair bit of loose rock and some spaced bolts in some places. The beehive at 2/3 height on pitch 4 is still there and very active. I would strongly recommend doing only the first 3 pitches or trying the 24 pitch instead.
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Sun 6th Jan 2019 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
26 | ★★ Sun's Out Guns Out - with Matt Fingleton | 25m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
Where the slab meets the wall it was seeping a lot, and the first flake is very dodgy looking. Matt and I went up right (near dusk til dawn) and stepped in. The crux seems to have lost a hold, there is a scar right where it would be perfect for a crimp. Quite burly and hard on some slopey crimps in the humid air. Over all a decent climb, though I would want to remove all the loose crap from the start flake before it kills someone. It’s all jugs there anyway so totally unnecessary.
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25 | ★★ Water Is Optional - with matt fingleton | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Haha! I feel like Rob Saunders , apparently I sent this 4 years ago.. and I called that ascent an Alzheimer’s flash! Alzheimer’s flash number 2, after Matt onsighted it like a champion.
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Sun 30th Dec 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Halfway House | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Voluptuous | 11m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Is there beta that doesn’t involve a shoulder destroying Gaston? Also the finger slots are not perfect if you have chorizo fingers.
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24 23 | ★★★ Black Op's - with Rick Helm | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Low end 24 but superb route, highly recommend.
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Fri 28th Dec 2018 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ TOS | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
487,533rd lap
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Mon 24th Dec 2018 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
23 | ★★ Sandbanked | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Actually really good! Sustained climbing on some flat edges and at times hard to find holds
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25 | ★★ Over The Falls | 18m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice to re-do this one. Felt surprisingly strong and controlled.
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Sun 9th Dec 2018 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Stolen Jigsaw Puzzle | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A very worthy addition IMO, got it first shot- though the transfer is only 1 move so I didn’t need any new beta- could be a great one to send first if you’re transistioning from 25-27.
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22 | ★★ Dark Side Of The Moon | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I feel bad I took so long to do this one- it’s excellent, better than the original in my opinion, plus more consistent and slightly harder. Get in it!
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Sun 10th Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
6c | ★★ Ciao Vecchio | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
What the spooge?! Polished already, this cliff seems to have been molested by the sweatiest hands on earth. Tried the direct 7a finish but far too greasy, barely stayed on the 6c bit to the right.
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6c+ | ★★ Calipso | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Literally wet feta on the holds.. does no one in Europe own a fucking brush?! Melted off the jugs at the top overgripping like mad. I spent ten minutes and half a brush trying to clean it on the way down. Needs a gerni.
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5c+ | ★★ Laertes | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Last route of the trip, fun little one.
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Fri 8th Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Sikati Bay The Beach | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ Karpouzi | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Amazing feature that itms being loved to death. Needs a pressure clean. Still excellent !
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6c | ★★ Tomboy | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing aswell on crimps and pockets, but needs a very good scrub and shortly a rebolt! Top anchor hanger is v rust.
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6a | ★★ Piero & Angela (Piero and Angela) | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Way better than I thought it would be! A bit sharp in places but great pockets and a couple of tricky bits. I did it twice.
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7b | ★★★ Elizabeth | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
For me, this was one of the best routes I’ve ever climbed in my life! Amazing rock, awesome moves on pockets of different sizes (including some classy cranks on mono’s). I onsighted to the last bolt, and was woefully misled by a recent tickmark of someone’s spastic beta. I pulled straight back on and went to the chain. Doesn’t even matter, I was grinning from ear to ear.
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Thu 7th Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartan Wall | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ The Beginning at the End | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool, snatchy power climbing on mini tufas and blobs. Steep off the deck, then pumpy but still powerful, into a technical and at times slopey mantle and top out. Loved it
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Thu 7th Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
6a | ★★ Blu | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The description is spot on. Did this at the end of the day, was very engaging with not a lot left (of anything) in the tank.
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Thu 7th Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a | ★★★ DNA | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got lost/retarded in the top tufas and decided to sit rather than blow gaskets, amazing fun route.
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7b+ | ★★ Ivi Ole | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Verrry hot and humid today, zinged off the left crimp once unexpectedly, then stuck the dyno next attempt and went to the top.
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Tue 5th Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Skalia Ghost Kitchen | ||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★★ Globus | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Last of the day, as the sun came over- HOT! cruisy start, nails middle section on tiny sharp holds and zero feet, and awesome steep pockets at the top. What a route!
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5c | ★★ Weissmatten (Weissmatter) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun, great holds-mostly pockets- the whole way.
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6b | ★★ Pic Pic | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not gonna lie, I selected mega classic first but then calmed my farm. I had such a great time on this long technical journey up the grey slab.
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6c+ | ★★★ Dafni | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unfortunately I got a bit lost at the crux and got gassed, what an awesome crazy route with multiple tufa blob seats! Need to think more laterally on these tufas I think.
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6a+ | ★★ Parasitos | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome! It would be classic with 10 more metres of that slab. Very cool.
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Tue 5th Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
6a | ★★ Argo Navis | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome long pitch on good holds.
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5b | ★ Telemaco | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warm up
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7b | ★★★ Daphne (Dafni) | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wanted to place the draws and learn the moves for another go, but couldn’t bring myself to stop. Awesome, pumpy route. Onsight ended at the second (non-juggy) rightward traverse. Worked the top, rested. 2nd go I fell a few moves higher, never really recovered from the first 5 stars.
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6b+ | ★★ Why Not? | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Jeebus! Stiff moves off the (very slippery) tufa. Wasn’t ready! Pretty fun though.
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Sun 3rd Jun 2018 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Iliada | ||||||
7b 7b/b+ | ★★★ Dolonas | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Introduction to tufa’s and stalactites for me. I fared well, being proficient in the dark arts (knee bars) but my fitness level is very low at the minute and I couldn’t wrangle a 3rd shot send. Might come back, great fun and the rest of Iliada looked gorgeous.
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6a+ | ★ Ifigenia | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome! Adventure style, long, airy and a bit of every genre. A little sharp and loose-looking (but not actually loose) in a couple of spots.
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