Start about 20m right of Black Orpheus. Fairly contrived.
25m Up an open rock gully to a tree belay.
Bruce Schneider on ★ Orpheus 10 - Orpheus pitch 1
29m (crux) Trend right over a horrendous flake, then diagonally up right, to tree belay.
27m Up slab trending right for gear, or straight up (very run-out), to a line of small steelwood trees. Left along dirt ledge to the face right of Black Orpheus chimney & tree belay. This ledge is the same as the end of BO pitch 3.
28m Up onto the wall right of the chimney. Traverse rightward around to rubbly gully. Up this gully (LHS is the better option), to a tree belay.
40m Finish as for the fourth pitch of Prometheus 1 up in Cave 4.
1957 | First ascent: R Brooks & G Baines |
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
10 | Assigned grade |
10 | Mark Gamble |
15 [14 - 16] ++ | grAId |
8 | Lee Cujes |
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Overall quality 48 from 16 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
★ Orpheus 10 - Tibro routes ca. mid 60's-3
Bruce Schneider on ★ Orpheus 10 - Orpheus pitch 1
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