Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | ★★ The Good, the Bad and the Ugly - with Blake Hawkins | 100m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Sep 2018 | ||||
3rd pitch top out is fun/fine. perfect for accessing the bluffs afterwards
|
|||||||||
19 |
★★ The Desired
- with
Anna
| 60m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Nov 2017 | ||||
Took a while on the low crux with no warmup, got up and down a few times before committing to a jam/layback combo, the gear is good but you won't be stopping for a bit. Pitch one is long and terrific with several mini crux sections to keep you working. Pitch 2 is harder than 14 off the belay I reckon.
|
|||||||||
19 |
★★ Wall of the Afternoon Sun
1
19
40m
2
17
27m
3
17
22m
4
14
48m
| 140m | Arapiles | Wed 8th Dec 2021 | |||||
18 | ★★ Kaiser Resignation Direct - with shichang | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Apr 2015 | ||||
A very nice option if you like thin crack finger locks, avoid the pointless traverse out and back. 3-party traffic jam at the pitch 2 belay with much pleasant conversation. ShiChang ran pitches 3 and 4 together on doubles to get us out of the way, plenty of drag by the top.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ Skink
- with
Grant Johnston
| 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | ||||
A grand outing as 2 pitches. We belayed in the cave. Fun hand traverse and balancy little crux, then I missed the hanging belay totally and was another 10m up before realizing, so ran it out to the top. Just made it on half ropes with considerable rope drag. Grant couldnt clean a nut just after crux, so I got lowered down only to discover following party at the hanging belay, and they had clipped it. Left it there and climbed back up top slab of Auto Da Fe on top rope, quite nice. Nut is now gone apparently.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ Eurydice
- with
Anna
| 65m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Apr 2016 | ||||
Awesome stuff! Pitch 1 way more sustained and difficult seconding as all the gear was set pretty hard, some weird positions to get 2 hands free in places, arrgh. Interesting assortment of bail slings just before the P1 mantle finish, was disappointed at the lack of belly-flopping. P2 hard off the belay then easier up in a great position. Got back down and wanted to do it again.
|
|||||||||
18 | ★★ Voodoo - with Grant Johnston, shichang | 65m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th May 2017 | ||||
Felt really good with great jamming on the first pitch, the arm handling the face holds got a bit pumped. Entertaining full bellyflop topout on the novelty cave/roof pitch from ShiChang, his look of horror when he first saw it from below was priceless.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ Eurydice
- with
Louis
| 70m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Oct 2018 | ||||
Fun well conceived climb. Pitch one is totally the money with heaps of really sustained and tricky climbing that keeps you on your toes but pitch two also has some very nice sections. I managed to get some gear stuck which sadly ruined Louis' clean second but otherwise it was a very straightforward two pitches, I even got to place my tiny hex.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★ Cantata
- with
John Henry, Jonno Rau
| 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
Jonno’s first taste of Arapiles 18. A really nice sequence getting into the crack on P1, done slightly differently by each of us. Managed drag at the start of P2 by putting bugger all gear in, gulp. Top of P2 is just barely 18, and decent climbing. You could call both pitches 17 with a straight face I think.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★ Kaiser Resignation Direct
- with
Ryan Siacci
1
18
30m
2
13
15m
3
15
23m
4
11
23m
| 91m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Nov 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ Skink
1
12
25m
2
18
40m
3
17
42m
| 110m | Arapiles | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Skink
- with
Jason Capenecas
1
12
25m
2
18
40m
3
17
42m
| 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 22nd Mar 2022 | ||||
Fumbled the navigation resulting in some down climbing on P2. Really bad rope drag on P3 when the ropes fell into a crack. Contemplated down climbing but pushed on hauling the rope. Sat down exhausted at the top. Got a pep talk from the belayer at the top of watchtower crack, and hauled a bit further to a boulder. Thanks to the amazing climber who took a detour on rappel to unstuck the rope.
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★ Checkmate
- with
Stephen Bailey
2
14
lead by
Stephen
| 85m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Apr 2016 | ||||
Been avoiding this for a while. Run out at the P3 crux and pumped above small gear, lots of holds and placements buried under funnel-shaped spider webs (are those dangerous?), not a happy place for a kiwi. A bit freaked out. Continued into P4. A bit lost? More spiders. Phew. Has seared itself into my brain. A fitting end for the trip.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★ Vandal - with Grant Johnston, shichang | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd May 2017 | ||||
Good climbing on each pitch, with stepping into the layback/bridge corner a tad committing just off the belay on the 3rd (assuming you don't do some ridiculous thrutch way way way inside). A #6 is way too small to protect that, there is an 0.5 at the lip but got well above that before being able to stop for more. Pretty cool. The rap sling clusterfuck at the top could do with some rationalization but is OK.
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★ lphigenia
- with
Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett
| 45m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 28th Oct 2017 | ||||
Fun grunty crux on P1, probably placed too little gear. The downclimb at back is a little spicy.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★ Revelations (Revelations Linkup The Bishop)
- with
Grant Johnston
| 52m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Oct 2018 | ||||
The reverse of our linkup a few years back. Soloed up to the guano alcove under the roof. Grant wandered off to the right wall a fair bit at the roof, but there is a very satisfying bridging sequence that avoids doing so (look behind you). P2 of The Bishop is pretty outstanding with brilliant exposure.
|
|||||||||
17 |
Passover
- with
John Henry
| 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 16th Oct 2019 | ||||
A late start after morning rain. Not at all average, this deserves at least a star. The bouldery start can be protected with a ball nut (remove it after), and the climbing is absorbing all the way with more than one crux. I'd do it again.
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★ lphigenia
- with
Heather Pagram
| 45m | Arapiles | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | |||||
17 |
★★ Vandal
- with
Dylan Tubaro
1
14
50m
2
13
3
17
| 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||
Had a snorkel of a time!!
|
|||||||||
17 |
★★★ Oceanoid
- with
strong tim
1
17
45m
2
17
30m
| 75m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Apr 2022 | ||||
17 | ★★ Vandal - with Shaggy Horse | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2022 | ||||
Really good. Enjoyed every pitch. This weekend I learned I am not good at seeing obvious stem moves. Thought the first pitch was harder than the second.
|
|||||||||
16 |
★★ Yo Yo
- with
Grant Johnston
| 90m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th May 2014 | ||||
Our first crack at a 16. Pretty good, the "finger layback" is straightforward. Not much pro for quite a way off the belay on pitches 3 and 4, consider doing the lefthand crack of pitch 3 (18) next time. First pitch nothing to write home about.
|
|||||||||
16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
- with
Grant Johnston
| 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th May 2014 | ||||
Mostly face climbing and bridging, a little bit of layback. A #5 camalot is just barely big enough to reduce the runout from the 3rd belay to the bolt, though it may make more sense for whoever leads pitch 3 to keep climbing, clip the bolt, then downclimb to the 3-piton belay, so the 4th pitch lead is pre-clipped. 2nd pitch quite fun. Belay cave cold and smelled like wee, get a bloody move on Grant.
|
|||||||||
16 | ★★★ Brolga - with Grant Johnston, Magnus | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Apr 2015 | ||||
Panzer was occupied so decided to get this done early in the trip. Nice moves. Not as run out feeling as mantle. Tricams handy.
|
|||||||||
16 | ★★ Saracen - with Anna | 110m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 5th Apr 2016 | ||||
An old school 16 with all that entails ... first pitch a good tough fight through overlaps, then ran 2&3 together, pitch 3 traverse quite exciting until reaching the welcome crack. Pitch 4 is crap with 2 poorly protected mantles, finishing up Dunes might be better.
|
|||||||||
16 | ★ Deathwatch Beetle - with Angela Hewlett | 130m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Apr 2017 | ||||
Climbed as per the select guide, up the Lute, probably lots of moss out right. Went a bit too high and traversed into P2 from above the rap anchors, beware of potential death blocks up there. Crux is a neato combo of slab then overhang, worthwhile. P3 enjoyable enough after an average start.
|
|||||||||
16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
- with
Stephen Hawkshaw
| 100m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 11th Jun 2018 | ||||
Lots of Stoke lots of fun. Stephen Hawkshaw got to run out the crux and I got to catch one of his cams on belay. Great crowd on the wall as well!
|
|||||||||
16 |
★ Decibel (Decibel Linkup Stentor)
- with
Grant Johnston
| 55m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 5th Oct 2018 | ||||
Decibel P1 quite delicate then a surprise hand jam near the top. Not sure I'd give it a star. Up the easy Stentor chimney with one piece for sanity, then a commiting step into Stentor P3 which is short but nicely sustained, a bit of a pump hanging around for gear. Wouldn't give that 17 or an R rating though.
|
|||||||||
16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
- with
Mary Grace Stocker, Dad
| 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | ||||
A glorious way to start the trip. One that had eluded me on previous trips.
|
|||||||||
16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
- with
Bert
1
12
25m
2
14
20m
3
16
18m
4
16
32m
| 95m, 3 | Arapiles | Thu 14th Jan 2021 | |||||
This was really good! Kept me on my toes quite a bit too. Linked p1+2. Nice shade mid summer. Polish and interesting for sure at times.
|
|||||||||
16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
- with
Daniel Borsi
| 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Feb 2021 | ||||
yes very nice
|
|||||||||
16 |
★★ Saracen
- with
Heather Pagram
2
12m
lead by
Breanna Slattery
4
34m
lead by
Breanna Slattery
| 110m | Arapiles | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Brolga
1
15
30m
2
16
45m
3
14
40m
| 120m | Arapiles | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | |||||
15 |
★★ Arab
- with
Claudine Cheah
| 100m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jun 2021 | ||||
16 |
★★★ Brolga
- with
shauno
1
15
30m
2
16
30m
3
14
30m
| 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Apr 2022 | ||||
Lovely. Linked pitch 2&3 with a 63m rope
|
|||||||||
16 Hard |
★★★ Watchtower Crack P4
- with
Kat Hayhoe
4
16
32
| 32m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 17th Feb 2023 | ||||
Quest For Mr chicken pt3: by this point 35° day was getting to us, kat lead the final pitch and we then stumbled our dehydrated butts back to camp for much needed Cider. Such a fun quest would do again, without helmets next time.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★★ Toccata
- with
Grant Johnston
| 50m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th May 2014 | ||||
Fun thoughtful moves on first pitch, funky undercling into chimney. Something died at P1 belay.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★★★ Resignation
- with
Colin Megson
4
12
lead by
Colin Megson
| 96m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Apr 2012 | ||||
Pitches 2 and 3 are total stonkers! Opposed horizontal wires before crux overhang on P3, then suck up the exposure.
|
|||||||||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation (Ejaculation Linkup Diapason) - with Sid Lu | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Apr 2017 | ||||
Really enjoyed this, just a touch of fist and hand jamming sure helps on P2. Getting established on the final section up Holpyp is harder than expected, and rather good. Some rope drag management skills required. Finished up P3 of Diapason then rainy afternoon off.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★ Smeagol (Smeagol P1-2)
- with
Grant Johnston
| 110m | Arapiles | Tue 25th Apr 2017 | |||||
P1 and P2 are great varied climbing, not difficult to navigate, and deserve a full entry in the select guide. Had a go at the start of the alleged P3 but after the traverse L at approx 4m the moves become committing, there looks to be little or no protection above and the black wall appears very mossy. Is somebody having a laugh? The select guide doesn't mention P3, perhaps rightly so. Has anyone done this? Pulled the plug and rapped down just before the rain hit (phew).
|
|||||||||
15 |
★★ Bulger
- with
Grant Johnston
| 60m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Apr 2017 | ||||
A bit of an old school sandbag, both pitches hard for the grade. P1 has some quite grunty moves at the start, P2 needs some awkward jamming skill, a short thrutch up and down is perhaps only needed to safely place a high cam before committing to the torquey jam and tricky feet. Great edge-of-disaster action from Grant, with some rather foul language for the party approaching Eskimo Nell below. Pretty memorable.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★ Dante's Inferno
- with
Alisa
1
15
lead by
Alisa
| 70m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 1st Nov 2017 | ||||
Dirty first pitch, second has a goey start somewhat reminiscent of Vandal P3.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★ Boomer
- with
John Henry
| 42m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 5th Nov 2017 | ||||
Back for the second pitch, which is easier than the first. Watch out for the pile of rocks behind the top block just waiting to be kicked down the chute.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★ Viagra
- with
shichang
| 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Apr 2018 | ||||
Enjoyable. A good old-fashioned P1 jam bridge grunt followed by a fingery start to P2, nice high position at sunset.
|
|||||||||
15 |
★★ Sundance
- with
jimmy
1
12
42m
2
15
22m
3
13
30m
4
14
48m
| 140m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 19th Apr 2022 | ||||
15 | ★ Monitor - with Grant Johnston | 110m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
A reasonable day but Brolga still a waterfall. Up this instead. Not bad. Two river crossings en route, the black scunge of a Smeagol finish was not at all appealing.
|
|||||||||
14 |
★★ D Minor
- with
Colin Megson
1
10
lead by
Colin Megson
| 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Apr 2012 | ||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter - with Grant Johnston | 78m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th May 2011 | ||||
A must-do. Great exposure and thoughtful climbing with a bit of route-finding on P2, crazy traverse under the roof on P3 (protect the roof crack well for your second)
|
|||||||||
14 |
★★ Hot Flap
- with
Grant Johnston, Anna
| 170m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
A fun long wandery route. 3 in the party, took a while. Tri-cams are handy for the little face pockets.
|
|||||||||
14 | ★★ Mantle - with Grant Johnston | 90m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Apr 2015 | ||||
Bloody run out in several places including the start, bold lead. Double ropes will help find gear. Grant ran 2 & 3 together.
|
|||||||||
14 |
★★ Touchstone
- with
Grant Johnston
| 60m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Apr 2017 | ||||
Spent 2 hours thrashing from the curtain wall carpark up various bushy gullies looking for the path to this, failed and wound up at the transmitter, found the anchor and rapped in. 2 excellent pitches, balancy traversing, corner crack bridging then face climbing that is like an easier version of I'm a Little Asteroid. Worth the effort.
|
|||||||||
14 |
★ Eurylochus
- with
Grant Johnston
| 33m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st May 2017 | ||||
Fun, first pitch trickier than it looks (bridge it), 2nd pitch a cross between Agamemnon and Lamplighter P2 with great exposure near the end. Good gear all the way, big thread belay for P1.
|
|||||||||
15 | ★ Shaggy's Route - with Angela Hewlett, Stephen Bailey | 110m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 6th May 2017 | ||||
Decent climbing that isn't nearly as scrappy as it looks. Done as 3 on a 70m rope. Good lead from Stephen on first pitch. Managed to find a small P3 overhang to climb through for the crew to follow. Walked off right and soloed up the wee wall to get off.
|
|||||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter - with Mark Barnett | 78m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Dec 2015 | ||||
Lead pitches 1 & 3, chimneying out from the cave on the alst pitch is surprisingly scary!
|
|||||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter - with Daniel Borsi | 78m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Feb 2021 | ||||
14 |
★★★ Lamplighter
1
10
30m
2
14
30m
3
13
18m
| 78m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Mar 2022 | ||||
Great fun. Bit of a thrill seeing a wire fall out behind me on the traverse.
|
|||||||||
14 |
★★ Hot Flap
- with
pete
1
8
24m
2
13
30m
3
14
32m
4
13
50m
5
12
35m
| 170m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | ||||
13 |
★ Tarzan
- with
Shaggy Horse
| 33m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
14 |
★★ Hot Flap
- with
Chris Baker
1
8
24m
2
13
30m
Linked 2 and 3. Amazing climbing. Loved it so much!
3
14
32m
4
13
50m
5
12
35m
The only bit o did not like that much. Still a good finish for an amazing route. | 170m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | ||||
13 |
★★★ Muldoon
- with
Grant Johnston
| 42m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 16th May 2011 | ||||
The crux on P1 over the bulge protected by a #3 brass offset is pretty nervy for a 13 I reckon.
|
|||||||||
13 |
★★ Dunes Direct
1
13
30m
2
11
25m
3
10
22m
4
12
23m
| 100m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Mar 2022 | ||||
13 |
★★★ Muldoon
1
13
20m
2
12
22m
| 42m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 22nd Mar 2022 | ||||
Tiny nut before the crux lulling me into a false sense of security
|
|||||||||
13 |
★★★ Muldoon
- with
Jason Capenecas
1
13
20m
2
12
22m
| 42m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Mar 2022 | ||||
Nice watching the sun set from the P1 belay.
|
|||||||||
13 | ★★ Dunes - with Colin Megson | 100m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Apr 2012 | ||||
I think I'd do this again.
|
|||||||||
12 |
★★★ Bard
- with
Grant Johnston
| 120m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th May 2011 | ||||
Don't expect much pro up the first slab start. Passed at the beginning of pitch 3 by a French soloist. All in a day's work...
|
|||||||||
12 |
★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks
- with
Colin Megson
2
11
lead by
Colin Megson
4
11
lead by
Colin Megson
| 120m | Arapiles | Average | Fri 27th Apr 2012 | ||||
Initial chimney harder than it looks. The rest a bit dull.
|
|||||||||
12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
- with
Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett
| 110m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Apr 2015 | ||||
Ran pitch 3 and 4 together on double 60s, had to trail my little pack thru the squeeze. Brilliant chimney, run out but felt secure, lots of 3D moves.
|
|||||||||
11 |
★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks (Hurricane Lamp Cracks Linkup The Shroud)
- with
Angela Hewlett
| 120m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 11th Apr 2015 | ||||
Skipped the shroud first pitch for something better. Angela's last climb for the trip, good job.
|
|||||||||
12 | ★★ Panzer - with Angela Hewlett, Stephen Bailey | 95m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Apr 2016 | ||||
Hung around for 2 hours in drizzle waiting for it to be just dry enough to start. 3 great interesting pitches, fun slabbing, cool corner crack, more slabbing, a traverse to another corner, then a terrific overhung jug haul. Get up on it.
|
|||||||||
12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
- with
Jass
| 110m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Mar 2019 | ||||
12 |
★★★ Siren Direct Finish
- with
Yuji Nakano
| 170m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Apr 2022 | ||||
Direct finish is fantastic
|
|||||||||
12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
- with
Shannon Lucas
1
12
45m
2
8
17m
3
12
31m
4
8
18m
| 110m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Apr 2022 | ||||
Happy birthday shannon! Crusher
|
|||||||||
12 |
★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks
- with
Shaggy Horse
| 120m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2022 | ||||
My failure to stem continues...
|
|||||||||
11 |
★ Lizard Procrastination
- with
Grant Johnston
| 40m | Arapiles | Average | Mon 16th May 2011 | ||||
11 |
★★★ Agamemnon
- with
Grant Johnston
| 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th May 2011 | ||||
First pitch a bit dull but the second totally makes up for it.
|
|||||||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
- with
Grant Johnston
| 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 21st May 2011 | ||||
11 |
★ Penny Dreadful
- with
Grant Johnston
| 40m | Arapiles | Average | Sun 15th May 2011 | ||||
11 | ★★ Harlequin Cracks - with shichang, Sid Lu | 80m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2017 | ||||
Grovelled up the 2 little approach gullies to find another party had nipped around us, had to wait for them to get up the first pitch, during which time ShiChang nearly killed me walking out on the big tippy block I was sitting under. First pitch is good, then ran 2 and 3 together, but a bit meh. Skipped the final dogleg and punched straight up through the overlap to make it more interesting, one hard move at maybe grade 16?.
|
|||||||||
11 |
★★ The Dribble
- with
Grant Johnston
| 120m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd May 2017 | ||||
Done as 2 speedy long pitches on a 70m rope. Good fun.
|
|||||||||
11 | ★★ Phoenix - with John Henry, shichang | 98m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Apr 2018 | ||||
Led great first pitch, as fun as Kestrel but with more spaced gear options.
|
|||||||||
11 |
★★★ Agamemnon Linkup li
- with
Paul Kinnane
| 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Oct 2018 | ||||
11 |
★ Transylvania
- with
Grant Johnston
| 60m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 7th Oct 2018 | ||||
P2 has a committing start then some fun wee roofs to monkey around on, you can make it a couple of grades harder and perhaps better by not veering so far right in the top half, at least I think that's what I did.
|
|||||||||
10 | ★ Eagle Cleft - with Max, Mike Ashelford | 120m | Arapiles | Wed 24th Oct 2018 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Agamemnon
- with
jass
1
8
18m
2
11
22m
| 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Mar 2019 | ||||
11 | ★ The Eighth Direct - with John Henry | 96m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | ||||
A small epic was had. Took me a good 10 minutes to squeeze myself and my sunburn in sideways to get some gear. Once in I was definitely not coming out sideways again, and thrutching up took quite some effort. After exiting, the climbing above flows nicely, or maybe it's just relief. My skinnier second managed to get the gear without going in, dammit. Dropped a few nuts and my ATC at the P1 belay, so next was an extended belayed downclimb/reclimb of most of P1 to look for the nuts (fail), then straight into P2 (a bit dull by comparison), and out to Flinders Lane. Baked out, this was it for the day, slunk off down Ali’s to flop out in camp. Ack.
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11 |
★ Transylvania
- with
Augustus Holian
| 60m, 1 | Arapiles | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | |||||
Rap off after the first pitch. Don't bother with the second pitch. Had to split it into a third pitch because of terrible rope drag and the second pitch is a boring climb. Not worth the effort.
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11 |
★★ The Bishop
- with
Jason Capenecas
1
11
50m
2
lead by
Jason Capenecas
| 50m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Mar 2022 | ||||
11 |
★ Transylvania
- with
natalie harris
1
11
60m
2
| 60m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Mar 2022 | ||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
- with
natalie harris
1
11
25m
2
8
15m
| 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 21st Mar 2022 | ||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
- with
Ross Paynter
1
11
25m
| 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Oct 2022 | ||||
11 |
★★ Piccolo
- with
Andrew Grahame
1
11
18
lead by
Andrew Grahame
2
11
15
lead by
Andrew Grahame
| 33m | Arapiles | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
9 |
★★ D Major
- with
Grant Johnston
| 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 16th May 2011 | ||||
The guide with the high school kid having conniptions on pitch 2 kindly let us climb through. Cheers!
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10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
- with
Grant Sutton, Victoria Frenzl
2
6
lead by
Grant Sutton
4
9
lead by
Grant Sutton
| 130m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||
A bit of everything. Tow your newbie friends up this one.
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10 |
★★★ Syrinx
- with
Nikki Sentinella, Alec
4
8
38
lead by
Alec
| 170m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 23rd Apr 2019 | ||||
Unexpectedly epic at night and as a three. A truly superb outing!
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10 |
★★★ Syrinx
- with
Aaron Lowndes, Tom Partington
2
10
20m
lead by
Tom Partington
5
9
12m
lead by
Tom Partington
| 170m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
First ever Multipitch. Still one of my favourite days ever!
I lead the first and the last pitch. As I summited I watched the sunset as the boys followed my lead to the top
Tom lead 2nd and 5th pitch. Aaron lead the rest. |
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10 |
★★ Xena
- with
John Henry
| 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Nov 2022 | ||||
Finally, a nice day! Got a bit off route to the Siren P1 ledge, then wound up belaying a bit high on the arete. P4 is the business. Watched a general military training clusterfuck in progress on and above Hot Flap. Somebody is gonna die if they keep that shit up.
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10 Hard |
★ Clytemnaestra Buttress
- with
Izzy Burgoyne
| 45m | Arapiles | Average | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | ||||
9 |
★★★ Arachnus Variant (Minerva)
- with
Grant Johnston
| 110m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 18th May 2011 | ||||
Runout on traverse pitch 3 not too bad. Be sure to walk to the right of the big belay ledge and check out Watchtower Crack and the face.
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9 |
★★ Beau Geste
- with
Grant Johnston
| 140m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Oct 2018 | ||||
A good fun ramble, with nice exposure on the P4 traverse. Grant ran 2 & 3 together on double ropes and long slings. A swarm of bees flew by, parting around me at the P4 belay. Pitch 5 is rubbish.
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9 |
★★★ Arachnus
- with
Dave Burt
| 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 11th Oct 2018 | ||||
Had only previously done Minerva variant, linked P2 and low traverse option for P3, nice face climbing. Think I prefer this.
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