Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
26 |
★★ Golden Gaytime
![]() | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good but not two stars. One or no stars
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26 25 |
★ Gay Olympics
![]() | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
Thin and very hard.
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23 |
Crows in the Snow
![]() | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Poor gear, rock, and climbing. I have no idea why it gets a star.
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Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
10 |
★ Clytemnaestra Buttress
![]() | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely better than it looks.
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17 |
★★ lphigenia
![]() | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but the rock quality drops off at the top. Nice pillar to finish on though.
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13 |
★★★ Muldoon
![]() | 42m | ★ Good | |||
Not that great! Greasy, awkward start. Good steep finish but seems way overrated.
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Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
25 |
Evading Infra-Red
![]() | 35m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
Very thin hard start. Worthless.
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17 |
★★ Surface To Air
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I think this is great climbing, much better than Muldoon. Start is fairly hard and not that well protected if 17 is your limit.
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13 |
★★ Hell For Leather
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 21 |
★ Blind Profit
![]() | 30m, 2 | Average | |||
Original is too contrived to even work out where you're supposed to go. Step R at the first bolt, back left and then enjoy the fun top roof.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
20 |
Tiresias
![]() | 38m | Average | |||
Scrappy climbing then a good roof up high. It is much easier to climb the roof than protect it! There is gear there if you can hang out to place it.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
22 22 R |
★★ Plimsoll Line
![]() | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Really not that great, and quite scary now that the pins have fallen out.
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24 23 |
★★★ Orestes
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing but not great rock! I seem to be alone in finding this 24 - it's sustained, steep and the traverse is taxing to protect well. Several people have hurt themselves falling off it.
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25 |
★★★ Have A Good Flight
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.
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27 29 |
★★ Jet Lag
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Cassandra Area | ||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but greasy rock.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
18 |
★★ Gilt Edged
![]() | 40m | Average | |||
I remember it being super greasy. Good, but not classic.
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29 28 |
★★★ Cobwebs
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...
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24 |
★★ Astral Plane
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Good but not two stars as I recall.
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24 |
★ Entangled
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Remarkably worthwhile as a second pitch to Astral Plane. Thin crux past old bolt.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★ Pwocol Hawum
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly ok
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18 |
★ Wascal
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky and surprisingly worthwhile
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16 15 |
★ ScarIet Sage
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Harder and steeper than it looks
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17 |
★ Mexican Madness
![]() | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
22 21 |
★ Metronome
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Remember it being ok but very hard for the grade and not that well protected. Harder than it looks!
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18 |
Falsetto
![]() | 15m | Crap | |||
Poorly protected, dodgy rock and not very good climbing.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
17 |
★ Reunion
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
25 |
★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.
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26 |
★ Heimweh
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.
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20 19 |
★ Excuse Me While I Belch
![]() | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly technical face to good crack. Good climbing.
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21 20 |
★★ Excuse me Lex
![]() | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is the best option of all the various lines.
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14 |
★ Eurylochus
![]() | 33m | Don't Bother | |||
The bottom groove is interesting but large chunks of rock on the top wall are very hollow. Finish is fun, but you're better off doing top pitch of Lex if you can.
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21 |
Across the Andes by Frog
![]() | 20m, 1 | Average | |||
Don't really remember this but it looks a little dangerous.
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20 |
★★ Lex Luthor
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
The first pitch is slippery, hard off the ledge and short - not that great, but the second is good face climbing on (mostly) positive holds. Beware of brittle rock at the start.
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Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
18 |
★★ Daily Planet
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Marred a little by the traverse in. Interesting climbing and fairly stiff for the grade.
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21 |
★★ I Dunno
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
I don't really remember it but thought it was good
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24 |
I Dunno Direct Start
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
Just one move. If you can do it, it's a great route. If you can't, it's rubbish.
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23 |
★ Predator
![]() | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Didn't seem that great - a few moves and it's over. And they're not great moves.
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Sun 28th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
8 10 |
★★ Mesa
![]() | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, steep and slabby. Hardest move is either the start or the slabby bit, cave is good if it's raining
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Fri 26th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
22 |
★ Strombeante
![]() | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great fun. First bolt would be necky to clip if you were short. Topout is probably the crux but you can just lower off the chains on the lip - 23m to ground
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22 |
★ Fixed Smile
![]() | 12m | Average | |||
19 |
★★ Togrul Khan
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained for the first 6m then easy. Nice climbing.
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15 14 |
★ Tarzan
![]() | 33m | ★ Good | |||
First move is very hard - at least 15. The rest is good.
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21 20 |
★ Cul-De-Sac
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Seems very hard!
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21 20 |
★★ Pilot Error
![]() | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Bolt is not good right now!
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Fri 26th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area | ||||||
22 |
DC 10
![]() | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
20 |
So Help Me God
![]() | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Extremely dangerous - you'd hit the ground off insecure crux at 7m and the rock isn't great.
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23 |
★ Thanksgiving Sunday
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Disappointingly hard just when you think it's over.
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Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
19 |
★ Pyrrhic Victory
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Quite odd.
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18 |
★ Social Darwinism
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Poor pro for first 6m then ok.
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Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | ||||||
20 |
Outlaw Oats
![]() | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Looks good but isn't. TR'd the line to the right, about 22 but not great either.
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Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
20 |
★ Porcupine
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good, hard for the grade, 4 cam handy for start.
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Thu 4th Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
24 |
★★ Cayenne
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 |
★ Herbs and Spices
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
23 |
Hopscotch
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
20 |
Vow of Silence
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
14 |
★ The Mitre
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
16 |
★ Immaculate Deception
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
6 |
★★ Guiding Light
![]() | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Okay but not amazing
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Wed 3rd Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
14 |
★ The Fall of Man
![]() | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very engaging! Just did first pitch and finished up Bishop which is a good combo. First pitch is maybe 12 but quite out there and not especially well protected.
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18 |
★ Skarramunga
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
Don't remember much, steeper than it looks
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Tue 2nd Sep 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
11 |
★★ The Archbishop
![]() | 48m | ★ Good | |||
Actually good.
|
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17 |
★ The Great White Hope
![]() | 35m | Average | |||
Good and hard but broken
|
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18 17 |
★★ Edgell Gerber Memorial Flake Climb
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
I always find this hard for 17. Take 3rp?
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13 |
★ Bostok
![]() | 40m | Average | |||
OK - access to chains at top of Nuns Love It
|
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22 21 |
★ Beelzebub Direct Start
![]() | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Very, very hard for 20. And probably reachy, and dangerous getting to the bolt.
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Sun 1st Jun 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Ministry Wall | ||||||
21 |
★ Undercover Agent
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
Desperate if you're tall.
|
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Tue 3rd Sep 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
14 13 |
★ The Baptism
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
Very stiff for 13 off the ledge high up - hence a bit dangerous unless you do it in 2 pitches
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Mon 2nd Sep 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
23 |
★ Nuns Love It
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, funky moves but the bolts are in the strangest places and seem like they would be hard to clip.
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Mon 3rd Sep 2012 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
23 |
★ Loudly Inferior
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
Hard finish is out of keeping - The Squeaky Wheel is much better
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Sun 2nd Sep 2012 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
22 |
Witch Craft
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
It's definitely not 18. The start is about 21 and then you pull through the roof on a 2 finger pocket (crux) and end by mantling a horn on the arete.
|
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19 |
★★ Morgul Can't
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Gear is a bit dodgy on the crux but I would do again. You have gear below.
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23 |
★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
Just a few thin moves. It's fun but over after 6m
|
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16 15 |
★ Mullumbimby Madness
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard and spaced gear for 15. Great climbing though, I love this one.
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Sat 3rd Sep 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
19 |
★ The Squeaky Wheel
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing but hard and unprotected at the start. A grey alien is good first piece.
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Fri 2nd Sep 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
17 18 |
★★ Morgul Khan
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Easy for 18, and nice. Diagonal right to chains
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18 |
★★ Salem
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not much worthwhile gear in the first few metres and then run out a little off good gear up the corner. #3 cam may be handy for upper pocket, don't need #1 and #2 camalots
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Thu 3rd Sep 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
10 |
★★ Serpent
![]() | 43m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent. You can go two ways, both good. A bit slippery.
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Sat 4th Sep 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
11 |
★★ The Bishop
![]() | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First pitch is okay, not super well protected. Second pitch is great but has a very stern crank for the grade that may be hard for beginners.
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Tue 2nd Sep 2003 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
11 |
★ Penny Dreadful
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Start to the right! The direct start is great but hard and slippery and poorly protected for the grade. It makes a much better start for Witch Hunt.
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Mon 1st Sep 2003 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
15 14 |
★★ Witch Hunt
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
May be hard for 14. Great climbing.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2000 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
6 6 R |
★ Cloaca
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
6 |
★★ Exodus
![]() | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 21st Jan 1994 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
On my 23rd birthday!
|
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Thu 3rd Sep 1992 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
17 |
★ Revelations
![]() | 48m | Average | |||
Really slick. Felt tough.
|
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Tue 31st Dec 1991 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
23 |
Roadside Attraction Direct Start
![]() | 20m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
Sun 29th Sep 1991 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
24 |
★ It'll Never Fly
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun but HAGF is the better route if you have the juice.
|
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Mon 3rd Sep 1990 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
19 |
★★ Acapulco Gold
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seeps after rain. Short but sustained!
|
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Sun 2nd Sep 1990 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
18 |
★ Roadside Attraction
![]() | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Poor protection, rock and climbing.
|
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Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | ||||||
2 |
★ Cartridge Arete
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
Good first climb
|
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Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | ||||||
14 |
★ Ckinell
![]() | 28m | Average | |||
14 |
★ Hangman
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
One hard greasy move, otherwise good
|
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6 |
★ Revolver Crack
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
13 |
★ Sexless Sue
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
OK, the overhang is good.
|
||||||
9 |
★ Cave Climb
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Lovely beginners route, does have one tricky move on P2. Maybe not a great beginners' lead though.
|
||||||
23 |
★ Cricket Bats in a Box
![]() | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
Hard, not that great, and would be a really, really scary lead.
|
||||||
10 |
★ Long Bow
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
great steep mega jugs
|
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15 14 |
★ Holdup Line Direct Finish
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
hard, slippery, slopey finish that's a bit dangerous, if I have the right route
|
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11 |
★ Stage Coach
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Slippery and hard at start
|
||||||
3 |
★ Bullet Buttress
![]() | 20m | Average |