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Ascents in Arapiles as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing 801 - 900 out of 900 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
26 Golden Gaytime Mixed trad 30m, 3 Good
Good but not two stars. One or no stars

 
26 25 Gay Olympics Mixed trad 20m, 3 Average
Thin and very hard.

 
23 Crows in the Snow Trad 20m Don't Bother
Poor gear, rock, and climbing. I have no idea why it gets a star.

 
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae Muldoon Area
10 Clytemnaestra Buttress - with Wendy Trad 45m Good
Definitely better than it looks.

 
17 lphigenia - with Jillian Trad 45m Good
Good climbing but the rock quality drops off at the top. Nice pillar to finish on though.

 
13 Muldoon Trad 42m Good
Not that great! Greasy, awkward start. Good steep finish but seems way overrated.

 
Tue 30th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae House of Atreus
25 Evading Infra-Red Mixed trad 35m, 1 Don't Bother
Very thin hard start. Worthless.

 
17 Surface To Air Trad 30m Classic
I think this is great climbing, much better than Muldoon. Start is fairly hard and not that well protected if 17 is your limit.

 
13 Hell For Leather Trad 30m Very Good
19 21 Blind Profit - with Wendy Mixed trad 30m, 2 Average
Original is too contrived to even work out where you're supposed to go. Step R at the first bolt, back left and then enjoy the fun top roof.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae House of Atreus
20 Tiresias Trad 38m Average
Scrappy climbing then a good roof up high. It is much easier to climb the roof than protect it! There is gear there if you can hang out to place it.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae The Flight Deck
22 22 R Plimsoll Line Trad 15m Don't Bother
Really not that great, and quite scary now that the pins have fallen out.

 
24 23 Orestes - with Duncan Steel Trad 40m Classic
Great climbing but not great rock! I seem to be alone in finding this 24 - it's sustained, steep and the traverse is taxing to protect well. Several people have hurt themselves falling off it.

 
25 Have A Good Flight - with Paul Hoskins Sport 18m, 5 Classic
Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.

 
27 29 Jet Lag Sport 18m, 8 Good
I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Atridae Cassandra Area
18 Cassandra Mixed trad 40m, 5 Good
Good climbing but greasy rock.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
18 Gilt Edged Trad 40m Average
I remember it being super greasy. Good, but not classic.

 
29 28 Cobwebs Trad 20m Classic
Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...

 
24 Astral Plane Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Good but not two stars as I recall.

 
24 Entangled Mixed trad 25m, 1 Good
Remarkably worthwhile as a second pitch to Astral Plane. Thin crux past old bolt.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
22 Pwocol Hawum Trad 10m Good
Surprisingly ok

 
18 Wascal Trad 10m Good
Tricky and surprisingly worthwhile

 
16 15 ScarIet Sage Trad 10m Good
Harder and steeper than it looks

 
17 Mexican Madness Trad 10m Don't Bother
22 21 Metronome Trad 15m Average
Remember it being ok but very hard for the grade and not that well protected. Harder than it looks!

 
18 Falsetto - with Juergen Trad 15m Crap
Poorly protected, dodgy rock and not very good climbing.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
17 Reunion Trad 25m Average
25 Debutantes and Centipedes Mixed trad 15m, 3 Very Good
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.

 
26 Heimweh Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.

 
20 19 Excuse Me While I Belch Trad 17m Good
Surprisingly technical face to good crack. Good climbing.

 
21 20 Excuse me Lex Trad 32m Very Good
This is the best option of all the various lines.

 
14 Eurylochus Trad 33m Don't Bother
The bottom groove is interesting but large chunks of rock on the top wall are very hollow. Finish is fun, but you're better off doing top pitch of Lex if you can.

 
21 Across the Andes by Frog Mixed trad 20m, 1 Average
Don't really remember this but it looks a little dangerous.

 
20 Lex Luthor Trad 40m Good
The first pitch is slippery, hard off the ledge and short - not that great, but the second is good face climbing on (mostly) positive holds. Beware of brittle rock at the start.

 
Mon 29th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
18 Daily Planet Trad 20m Good
Marred a little by the traverse in. Interesting climbing and fairly stiff for the grade.

 
21 I Dunno Trad 20m Good
I don't really remember it but thought it was good

 
24 I Dunno Direct Start Trad 10m Average
Just one move. If you can do it, it's a great route. If you can't, it's rubbish.

 
23 Predator Trad 15m Don't Bother
Didn't seem that great - a few moves and it's over. And they're not great moves.

 
Sun 28th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
8 10 Mesa Trad 33m Very Good
Great climb, steep and slabby. Hardest move is either the start or the slabby bit, cave is good if it's raining

 
Fri 26th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
22 Strombeante Sport 10m, 2 Very Good
Great fun. First bolt would be necky to clip if you were short. Topout is probably the crux but you can just lower off the chains on the lip - 23m to ground

 
22 Fixed Smile Trad 12m Average
19 Togrul Khan Trad 15m Very Good
Sustained for the first 6m then easy. Nice climbing.

 
15 14 Tarzan Trad 33m Good
First move is very hard - at least 15. The rest is good.

 
21 20 Cul-De-Sac - with Wendy Trad 10m Good
Seems very hard!

 
21 20 Pilot Error Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
Bolt is not good right now!

 
Fri 26th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area
22 DC 10 Trad 10m Don't Bother
20 So Help Me God - with Wendy Trad 10m Don't Bother
Extremely dangerous - you'd hit the ground off insecure crux at 7m and the rock isn't great.

 
23 Thanksgiving Sunday - with Wendy Trad 12m Good
Disappointingly hard just when you think it's over.

 
Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
19 Pyrrhic Victory Trad 40m Good
Quite odd.

 
18 Social Darwinism - with Wendy Mixed trad 20m, 1 Good
Poor pro for first 6m then ok.

 
Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall
20 Outlaw Oats - with Wendy Trad 15m Don't Bother
Looks good but isn't. TR'd the line to the right, about 22 but not great either.

 
Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
20 Porcupine - with Wendy Trad 10m Good
Good, hard for the grade, 4 cam handy for start.

 
Thu 4th Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
24 Cayenne Trad 15m Very Good
23 Herbs and Spices Trad 15m Good
23 Hopscotch Trad 20m Average
20 Vow of Silence Trad 30m Average
14 The Mitre Trad 25m Average
16 Immaculate Deception Trad 15m Average
6 Guiding Light Trad 60m Good
Okay but not amazing

 
Wed 3rd Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
14 The Fall of Man - with Greg Trad 45m Very Good
Very engaging! Just did first pitch and finished up Bishop which is a good combo. First pitch is maybe 12 but quite out there and not especially well protected.

 
18 Skarramunga Trad 15m Average
Don't remember much, steeper than it looks

 
Tue 2nd Sep 2014 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
11 The Archbishop Trad 48m Good
Actually good.

 
17 The Great White Hope - with Wendy Trad 35m Average
Good and hard but broken

 
18 17 Edgell Gerber Memorial Flake Climb Trad 30m Good
I always find this hard for 17. Take 3rp?

 
13 Bostok Trad 40m Average
OK - access to chains at top of Nuns Love It

 
22 21 Beelzebub Direct Start - with Andrew Clark Mixed trad 10m, 1 Good
Very, very hard for 20. And probably reachy, and dangerous getting to the bolt.

 
Sun 1st Jun 2014 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Ministry Wall
21 Undercover Agent - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Average
Desperate if you're tall.

 
Tue 3rd Sep 2013 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
14 13 The Baptism - with Wendy Trad 30m Average
Very stiff for 13 off the ledge high up - hence a bit dangerous unless you do it in 2 pitches

 
Mon 2nd Sep 2013 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
23 Nuns Love It - with Andrew Clark Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
Good climbing, funky moves but the bolts are in the strangest places and seem like they would be hard to clip.

 
Mon 3rd Sep 2012 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
23 Loudly Inferior - with Cate Trad 10m Average
Hard finish is out of keeping - The Squeaky Wheel is much better

 
Sun 2nd Sep 2012 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
22 Witch Craft - with Andrew Clark Trad 40m Good
It's definitely not 18. The start is about 21 and then you pull through the roof on a 2 finger pocket (crux) and end by mantling a horn on the arete.

 
19 Morgul Can't Trad 40m Good
Gear is a bit dodgy on the crux but I would do again. You have gear below.

 
23 A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct - with Sol Trad 25m Average
Just a few thin moves. It's fun but over after 6m

 
16 15 Mullumbimby Madness Trad 40m Very Good
Hard and spaced gear for 15. Great climbing though, I love this one.

 
Sat 3rd Sep 2011 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
19 The Squeaky Wheel Trad 10m Very Good
Great climbing but hard and unprotected at the start. A grey alien is good first piece.

 
Fri 2nd Sep 2011 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
17 18 Morgul Khan Trad 40m Good
Easy for 18, and nice. Diagonal right to chains

 
18 Salem Trad 40m Very Good
Not much worthwhile gear in the first few metres and then run out a little off good gear up the corner. #3 cam may be handy for upper pocket, don't need #1 and #2 camalots

 
Thu 3rd Sep 2009 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
10 Serpent Trad 43m Mega Classic
Excellent. You can go two ways, both good. A bit slippery.

 
Sat 4th Sep 2004 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
11 The Bishop Trad 50m Very Good
First pitch is okay, not super well protected. Second pitch is great but has a very stern crank for the grade that may be hard for beginners.

 
Tue 2nd Sep 2003 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
11 Penny Dreadful - with Natasha Trad 40m Good
Start to the right! The direct start is great but hard and slippery and poorly protected for the grade. It makes a much better start for Witch Hunt.

 
Mon 1st Sep 2003 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
15 14 Witch Hunt - with Natasha Trad 40m Classic
May be hard for 14. Great climbing.

 
Sat 2nd Sep 2000 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
6 6 R Cloaca - with Natasha Trad 30m Good
6 Exodus - with Natasha Trad 36m Very Good
Fri 21st Jan 1994 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
23 Birdman of Alcatraz - with Dave Jones Trad 30m Classic
On my 23rd birthday!

 
Thu 3rd Sep 1992 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
17 Revelations Trad 48m Average
Really slick. Felt tough.

 
Tue 31st Dec 1991 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
23 Roadside Attraction Direct Start - with Marty Mixed trad 20m, 1 Don't Bother
Sun 29th Sep 1991 - Arapiles
Atridae The Flight Deck
24 It'll Never Fly - with Edwin Sport 20m, 4 Very Good
Good fun but HAGF is the better route if you have the juice.

 
Mon 3rd Sep 1990 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
19 Acapulco Gold - with Marty Trad 10m Very Good
Seeps after rain. Short but sustained!

 
Sun 2nd Sep 1990 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
18 Roadside Attraction Trad 20m Don't Bother
Poor protection, rock and climbing.

 
Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
2 Cartridge Arete Trad 10m Average
Good first climb

 
Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
14 Ckinell Trad 28m Average
14 Hangman Trad 25m Average
One hard greasy move, otherwise good

 
6 Revolver Crack - with Stella & Liam Trad 20m Good
13 Sexless Sue - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Average
OK, the overhang is good.

 
9 Cave Climb - with Natasha Trad 30m Good
Lovely beginners route, does have one tricky move on P2. Maybe not a great beginners' lead though.

 
23 Cricket Bats in a Box Trad 25m Don't Bother
Hard, not that great, and would be a really, really scary lead.

 
10 Long Bow Trad 20m Very Good
great steep mega jugs

 
15 14 Holdup Line Direct Finish Trad 20m Good
hard, slippery, slopey finish that's a bit dangerous, if I have the right route

 
11 Stage Coach Trad 20m Good
Slippery and hard at start

 
3 Bullet Buttress Trad 20m Average

Showing 801 - 900 out of 900 ascents.

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