Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
18 17 | ★ Oh Bondage | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle | ||||||
21 | The Garden's Full of Furniture | 15m | Average | |||
Felt loose and poorly protected
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21 19 | ★ Pestilence | 20m, 2 | Average | |||
I did this before the bolts went in, thinking it was The Garden's Full of Furniture - the upper section probably is. Start is reachy and hard for 19 unless you come in from Scourge
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20 20 R | ★ Scourge | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Gear is ok but pumpy to place
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22 | ★ Kinky Kupple | 17m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Was very serious before the bolt went in!
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Wild Oats | 70m | ★ Good | |||
I found the first pitch quite runout after the start (even going R)
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18 | Non-Saraband Route-like Substitute - with Wendy Eden | 10m | Average | |||
22 | I Can't Believe it's not Chaconne - with Wendy Eden | 10m | Average | |||
23 24 | ★★ Jilted | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.
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21 | Saraband - with Wendy Eden, estherenita | 15m | Average | |||
Hard start which is difficult to protect. Not the greatest rock. Top crack is nice. I was surprised by a nesting bronzewing pigeon exploding out of her nest at about half height.
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
19 | Hassan - with dave jones | 20m | Average | |||
25 | Cuddly Fat | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Crap with a chipped hold.
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25 | ★★ Non-Stop | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ On High | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
11 | Freckled Duck | 26m | Average | |||
Tres vegetated
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24 | ★ Revolution Rock Low Start | Average | ||||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Girls on Bikes - with julian saunders | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Top crux is very reachy. Climbing is good, but not awesome.
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24 | ★★★ Intransience - with dave jones | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
26 | ★ Clap Hands | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
The bottom bit is quite good. Second shot.
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22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Johns Corner | 30m | Average | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
19 | Up In My Bedroom | 10m | Average | |||
Could actually be ok if it ever got any traffic
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23 23 R | ★ Moving Right Along | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Finish is runout, not the start.
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19 18 | ★ Femroc | 20m | Average | |||
I find the crux awkward and hard for the grade.. and the top bit thin on gear. Climbing is ok though.
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21 | ★★ Droop Street | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy to place the gear. Good climbing but all over after 10m
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20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★ Good | |||
A very slippery crux down low. Pretty slippery up high too!
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17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 | ★ Power Crazy - with Juergen Bollinger | 28m | Don't Bother | |||
Takes lots of blue aliens - but the climbing's not that great
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14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | ||||||
24 | ★ Deep Throat - with Wayne Webb | 15m | Average | |||
A bit thin on gear
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Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | ||||||
24 23 | ★ Strapping | 15m | ★ Good | |||
One very hard move...
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21 | Saddle Sore | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
very short and a bit scrappy
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Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | ||||||
9 | ★ Hope | 16m | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★★ Loyalty | 18m | ★ Good | |||
7 | ★ Charity | 14m | ★ Good | |||
5 | ★ Sincerity | 14m | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Bozo | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good for a micro route!
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Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Jackal - with estherenita | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nice
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Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Jed's Climb | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Quisling | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Some days this is desperate, some days it's fine!
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22 | ★★ Quisling Direct Start | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical and pumpy placing the gear
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Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Tannin Direct | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 | ★ Hornpipe | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | What Is Carborized? | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | ||||||
21 | ★ Passionate Tips - with claudio trefny | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Viagra - with Oz | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
22 | Love that comfort | 24m | Average | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
7 8 | ★★ Tantalus | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
24 | ★ Lois Lane - with ben weissner | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow! Super technical. You can have handholds or footholds but not both. Would be a very demanding lead. I think gear was OK but placing it very hard.
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Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
7 | ★ Easy Lizard | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
24 23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor - with ben wiessner | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two red cams handy
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15 | ★ Retardation - with Wendy Eden | 20m | Average | |||
Ok for a bit then loses it. Quite hard at the start.
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Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | ||||||
22 | Boogie Boogie - with Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★ Hyperspace Bypass - with Wendy Eden | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thin bit in the first half then R and L up the wall
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23 | ★ Vogon Destructor Fleet - with Wendy Eden | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Three tricky sections.
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Sat 24th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Bulger | 60m | ★ Good | |||
You could be forgiven for thinking this was 19!
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23 22 R | ★★ Unrequited | 15m | ★ Good | |||
I found this quite hard and a bit scary. Wondered if hexes would help in the podded crack - these days link cams might do the trick. Backed off it one day and then lead it next time.
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24 23 | ★★★ Despatched - with Paul Hoskins | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
24 If you ask me! I kicked out the RP above the roof and lost it - slumped onto a #1 RP. Went back and did it later. One of the best 24's at the mount. Don't bother with the second pitch, it's rubbish.
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20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★ Good | |||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with Gareth Llewellin | 22m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.
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Thu 22nd Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Great Working Dog Stories - with Wendy Eden | 40m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Second pitch is quite cryptic! Had me stumped for quite a while.
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11 9 | ★★ The Eighth - with Wendy Eden | 99m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome. Great climbing and rock.
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13 11 | ★★ Phoenix - with Wendy Eden | 98m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seems very hard for 11 and considerably harder than The Eighth
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18 | ★★ Falcon | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 16 | ★★ Yo Yo | 90m | ★ Good | |||
Hard for the grade and hard to protect safely on the crux. Beware.
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13 | ★★ Kestrel | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | ★★ Skylark Direct Finish | 38m | ★ Good | |||
Good but a bit dicey doing the mantel. You can get a wire in above it, but it's pumpy and hard to see. The rest is good and much easier.
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16 | ★★ Skylark | 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★ Underneath the Colours | 55m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ Antique Road Show - with estherenita | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Top section is great, bottom crux is not that much fun - but maybe I could just climb it better!
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25 | ★★ Bienenstich (Bienerstisch) - with Kieran Lawton, Gareth Llewellin | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing, technical crux at start. After the bolts I remember small opposed wires, small cam, #3RP, medium cam (red or yellow camalot). Looks like 32!
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23 22 | ★ Rubber Neeples | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Tough Titties | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Thin and hard start
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15 | ★★ Resignation RHV | 70m | ★ Good | |||
Better finish but maybe not as well protected
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15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★ Resignation Left Hand Start | 35m | Average | |||
22 | ★ Eat More Meat - with estherenita | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Classic slick desperate Arapiles seam.
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25 | ★★ Vanya Going Underground | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really, really good but really, really hard.
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22 | ★★ No Future Direct | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★★ No Future | 30m | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★★ Kaiser - Resignation | 99m | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★★ Kaiser Resignation Direct | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
15 | ★★ Kaiser | 110m | Average | |||
Thu 22nd Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
7 | Marshmallow Sea | 14m | ||||
2 | Deck Gully | 12m | ||||
20 | ★ Brit Milah | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
4 | ★ Hammer | 12m | ||||
9 | ★ Sickle | 13m | ||||
8 | ★ Marshmallow Sea DS | 14m | ||||
2 | ★ Sunny Gully | 12m | Average | |||
Wed 21st Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | Born to be Mild - with Edwin Irvine | 15m | Average | |||
"Like a true accountant's child, I was born born to be mild"
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Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Winterset Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Trouser Sighs | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Bonsai Buttress | ||||||
24 | Bonsai Banzai - with Martin Tatton | 13m | Average | |||
Looks good but not worth the bush bash
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Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Upper Curtain Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Day of Rest Direct Finish - with Cate Webb | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Exciting crux above the gear.
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Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Cut Short - with Douglas Hockly | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
I clearly don't like this route as much as most! Climbing's not great and the gear hard to place.
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21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really pumpy at the start getting the gear in. After that just pumpy! At the top go R, not straight up the corner
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21 | ★★ Round Up - with Roxanne Wells | 30m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I like Sideshow better. This is a little greasy.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | ★★★ Classic |