Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Femroc
![]() | 20m | |||||
Goofed up the awkward mantle first time round
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14 |
★★ Megalomaniac
![]() | 28m | |||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
17 Easy |
★★ Moby Dick
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It Felt solid, flowy, and confident.
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17 Easy |
★★ Moby Dick
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Practice runs
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
9 |
★ Hope
![]() | 16m | |||||
7 |
★ Charity
![]() | 14m | |||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
9 |
★ Diagonal Crack
![]() | 35m | |||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
16 |
★★ Saracen
![]() | 110m | |||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
17 |
★★ Preludes
![]() | 35m | |||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
![]() | 40m | |||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||||
19 |
★ Bootleg
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyable while in the area. Interesting step over start
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19 |
★ Bit Torrent
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A worthwhile variant of bootleg adding just with new ground to be fun.
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22 |
★★ Copyright
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Burley but worth returning for the lead.
|
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
17 |
★★ Preludes
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
13 |
★★ Stalagmite
![]() | 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
![]()
1
11
25m
2
8
15m
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9 |
★ Diagonal Crack
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | |||||
14 |
★★ Megalomaniac
![]() | 28m | |||||
Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Beautiful Possibilities
![]() | 30m | |||||
Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So much fun! Good hand jams!
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Beautiful Possibilities
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 |
★ Transylvania
![]() | 60m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Run out at the top. Chicken head when possible
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9 |
★ Diagonal Crack
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
First climb that I lead at Araps!
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11 |
★★ Dracula
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First climb at Araps ever! Props to Till for partnering with me.
|
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | |||||
Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bam Bam
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty poor effort on what shouldnt have been too hard of an onsight.
|
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Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 ~15 |
★★ Dracula
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
The start?
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Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | |||||
Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Electric Warrior
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I'll come back to lead it, excellent if insecure
|
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22 R |
★★ Devoid
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
The first moves are hardest and least well protected. Then it chills. Lovely climb, but probably serious at the grade.
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 |
★ Transylvania (Transylvania P1)
![]()
1
11
60m
| 60m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
A fun morning outing
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11 |
★ Transylvania P1
![]()
1
| 60m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Only did the firsth pitch. Good first lead at araps. Had fun exploring the caves up top and soaking in the view
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Life in the Fast Lane
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Headlamp EOD attempt. Great! After the inconsequential start, this is rad and engaging all the way to the topout
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24 |
★★ Paladin
![]() | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd shot. Brutally hard through the short crux, but otherwise unremarkable. A good challenge to solve, but on balance I wouldn't say I enjoyed it.
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Femroc
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Gear is a little sparse after the mantle but there.
|
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★ Golden Fleece
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★ Femroc
![]() | 20m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | |||||
Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]()
1
35m
2
40m
Great belay spot. Watching other climbers on thundercrack, slackliners above, and birds loving life! So much beauty and activity going on.
3
15m
Walk through cave
4
40m
Belay can be a little cold in the shade. | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Beautiful multipitch! Classic! Loved the chimney and stepping over the void on lead!
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
14 |
★★ Loyalty
![]() | 18m | |||||
9 |
★ Hope
![]() | 16m | |||||
Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
19 |
★ Rosy Shy
![]() | 35m | |||||
Much nicer than I expected!
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Deep Freeze
![]() | 15m | |||||
Lovely techy movement. Felt much easier than my first burn.
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25 |
★★★ Deep Freeze
![]() | 15m | |||||
One of the longest times I’ve been on the wall for an onsight attempt. Wasn’t a fan of a lot of my gear (needed more small wires). But then punted near the top..
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||||
22 |
★★ Starless and Bible Black
![]() | 40m | |||||
With young (14 y.o.) Lachie, who loved it. The sometimes maligned first pitch is pretty good (21 not 22) but the upper pitch is fantastic - wonderful exposure, absorbing climbing and great gear.
|
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
![]()
1
11
25m
2
8
15m
| 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Nice climb. Fantastic belay anchors at the top!!!
|
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||||
22 |
★★ Dreadnought Variant
![]() | 12m | |||||
Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
16 |
★ Jason
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
16 |
★ Jason
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun crack, awesome protection the whole way!
|
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15 |
★★ Beautiful Possibilities
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Love it! Just an amazing climb with good protection.
|
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Los Endos
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best route on this wall. Long, and continually interesting, spicey but not death. Great position punching up the arete =)
|
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17 |
★ Oh Bondage
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Seconding Gezza. Man, what a rad finish at the grade. Committing, despite appearances.
|
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25 |
★★ Ride Like the Wind Variant
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd redpoint attempt, after a TRS rehearsal. Took a huuuuge fall on my first RP attempt. Short and hardly a "line" but cool rock and moves, and crazy sustained for a face climb.
|
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★ Golden Fleece
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
11 |
★★ Pedro
![]() | 36m | ★ Good | ||||
18 |
★★ Golden Fleece
![]() | 35m | |||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
![]() | 40m | |||||
Some of the most amazing features I’ve ever seen! Wow.
|
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle | |||||||
19 |
★ Pestilence
![]() | 20m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★ Kinky Kupple
![]() | 17m, 1 | |||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | |||||
glassy slabby feet. forgot the crack gloves. terrifying and pumpy. done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. it'll be a while until i can place gear on this
|
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14 |
★★ Megalomaniac
![]() | 28m | |||||
thought it would be easier climbing this while it wasn't raining. elvis'd the cruxxy bulge near the start and stuck a solid hand jam to drag myself over the lip. lost my head game a bit after that.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
rpt. last climb of a 13hr day. great way to end it.
|
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10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
K in a day quest last climb if the day. I'm so spent. 1000m!!
|
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | |||||||
20 |
★★ Bam Bam
![]() | 12m | |||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
17 |
★★ Moby Dick
![]() | 15m | |||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Golliwogs Cakewalk
![]() | 40m | |||||
Fri 22nd Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
13 |
★★ Dunes Direct
![]()
1
13
30m
2
11
25m
3
10
22m
4
12
23m
| 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
5 |
★ Sincerity
![]() | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dunes
![]() | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Clean Repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 2 of 2 of our speedy early morning ramble. Probably better than Eskimo Nell (and much better than I remember it).
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10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Clean repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 1 of 2 in a speedy before-breakfast push to work up an appetite. Just a classic easy outing.
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12 |
★★ Dunes
![]() | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I thought this was great, climbed as one mega pitch with paul
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10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 130m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did it with paul on my rest day. 2 pitch’s
Missed the upper chimney and went straight up the face.
|
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★ Girls on Bikes
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took a monster whip falling off the upper crux on my onsight-attempt. Then had a few more less dramatic falls before I pieced it together. A briefly thin and reachy sequence, but otherwise not tooooo hideous.
|
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23 |
★★★ Intransience
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very easy at the grade (and better protected than I expected) but super super fun! The start traverse is wild fun, and the finale is smoooooooothe face climbing pleasure.
|
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22 |
★★ Cecilia
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Totally botched the start sequence and pumped out, then went back to the ground and sent. Probably about gr20 from the first bolt to the top, but the start is gnarly and slippery.
|
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Electric Warrior
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Jeebus! I found this nails at the grade. I struggled with the slippery start until I sorted my feet, though the top was no slouch either. One of the harder routes I've done at the grade.
|
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||||
23 ~22 |
★★★ Intransience
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
No pressure lap on Paul’s gear. Fun enough with plenty of run up top but over good gear.
Would be 21 at Shipley with bolts
|
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22 ~21 |
★★ Cecilia
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I worked myself up expecting a solid lead, turns out it’s easy and a lot of fun. So much so I did two laps.
|
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Mari
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Well I almost fell off the start by jamming the crack instead of lay backing. Great steep corner above
|
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14 |
★★ Megalomaniac
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quick lap on Mitch’s gear, great easy trad route
|
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
13 |
★ Lawrence
![]() | 100m | |||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Wild Arts
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Seconding Simmo. Climbed as a giant 50m pitch. Absolutely awesome in this manner, eith a super cool finale up the face.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Electric Warrior
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun. A good mix of hard sections and nice climbing with rests.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||||
24 |
★★ Dreadnought
![]()
1
24
2
24
| 54m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thought the first pitch was kinda average (short, bouldery, uninspiring and on average rock for Arapiles), but P2 was mega (great rock, gnarly oozy moves, cool position). Linked both pitches for a more interesting outing.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | |||||||
18 |
★★ Howling Wolf
![]() | 28m | |||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 |
★ Transylvania
![]() | 60m, 1 | Average | ||||
Nice easy top rope to finish the weekend off. Go-ey moves for an 11. Being tall and flexible helps at crux at bolt.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
5 Hard |
★ Sincerity
![]() | 14m | Average | ||||
Gears runs out towards the top. Committing for the grade.
|
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7 ~8 |
★ Charity
![]() | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Good gear through-out. Committing moves through the roof for the grade.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★ Electric Warrior
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Seconded after an awesome lead by Luke
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
23 |
★★ The Sandpiper
![]() | 30m | |||||
Pulled on gear through the crux.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
17 |
★★ Moby Dick
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
More beans required than I remembered
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
12 |
★ Zorro
![]() | 12m | |||||
Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||||
22 |
★★ Dreadnought Variant
![]() | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow! What a line. For such a short route, this one packs it in with wiiiiild climbing on great rock. Linking this into P2 of Dreadnought makes this line a proper classic!
|
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★ The Stoat Steps Out
![]() | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very happy with this! Hardest pure trad (not mixed) climb to date! Woohoo. Thanks to Glenn for getting me on this and keeping my head in check.
|
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Beautiful Possibilities
![]() | 30m | Average | ||||
Felt hard and some sketchy moves. Glad I didn't lead this one.
|
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | |||||||
22 |
★★ Straw Dogs
![]() | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Heartbroken to drop the onsight throwing for the last move, after being on the wall for 15 minutes; faffing around with gear and getting too pumped. Turns out none of this matters since I've apparently seconded this already. Good times
|