Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Alisa | 35m | |||||
whipped off the second crux. smearing is scary on gear haha
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11 | ★★ Pedro - with Alisa | 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
19 Hard | ★ Rosy Shy | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★★ Saracen | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
12 |
★★ Dunes
- with
geoff woods
1
30m
2
25m
3
12
22m
4
23m
| 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
7 | ★ Charity - with geoff woods | 14m | |||||
5 | ★ Sincerity - with geoff woods | 14m | |||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Mercy | 16m, 1 | |||||
My rude trad introduction, whipping on an OK nut, underestimating the slippery hand crack. One to come back to
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Electric Warrior - with AJ | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So so close. Got the bottom crux well enough with good gear, through the much cruisier middle, forgot my own beta and fell off the finger lock up top. Damn, textbook fail. Will come back. Gear spoilers: black alien protects the start move up to the ledge, the rest just wants lots of nuts, with 0.4 cam before finger crack and 0.5 or 0.75 for the awkward top bit. 120 sling for the big thread midway.
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20 Hard | ★★ Electric Warrior - with AJ | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Time to up the game. A top rope run to check out the gear. Came off at the low crux a couple of times, decided to lead it.
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17 | ★★★ Mari - with AJ | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Warmup. Belayed from bottom of corner. Easy jamming over all too quickly, then some monkey business getting gear out under the roof. When did the rap chains go in? And why?
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber | |||||||
V5 | ★★ 7) classic traverse - with Henry Tanpanny | ||||||
V3 | ★ 5) around roof and up - with Henry Tanpanny | 4m | |||||
V3 | ★ 2) deep V - with Henry Tanpanny | ||||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior - with Henry Orton | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really good climb!
The start is hard, especially until you make it high enough to place pro. Struggled even harder with the finger sequence at the end. Might have to come back for another go. |
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17 | ★★★ Mari - with Henry Orton | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome line! Absolutely freezing in the shade and wind.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities - with Henry Orton | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Henry Orton | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great sequence of moves!
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Preludes - with Henry Orton | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite a burly fight with the crack on this one. Fun climb. Rock isn't as bad as the guide implies (alt explanation: I like choss)
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite - with Henry Orton | 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick - with Henry Orton | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
There is a flake crack in the Bluies. It is also grade 17. This one is unlike that one in difficulty.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 | ★★ Dracula - with Henry Orton | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky start for an 11!
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | |||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
11 | ★★ Pedro - with Denis | 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena - with Denis | 16m | |||||
No idea what I was doing all along…
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17 | ★★ Moby Dick - with Denis | 15m | |||||
Wish I could crack climb…
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump | |||||||
9 | ★ Anne | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
At first I said to myself: why am I doing this? Then it all changed in the short corner
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||||
9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit spicier than expected. Overall super fun and engaging. Descent looked a bit sketchy so preferred to walk up to the tree to rap down.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece | 35m | |||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | |||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||||
18 ~20 | ★★ Hyaena — 2 attempts - with AJ | 16m | |||||
An epic 4 hour session with 2 lead attempts from me. All that can be said is I got up the thing. Very very hard, pumpy, gear in the way, gibbering, downclimbs, falls, sits, sulking, go for it and pray, swearing, utter shellshock. The gear is fine. Nothing left in the tank. Tom, you are a master sandbagger.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Isaac Miles-Fine | 130m | Average | ||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Nikita Bulach | 130m | |||||
Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ John Thomas | 30m | |||||
Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | |||||
18 | ★ Johns Corner | 30m | |||||
Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Droop Street | 30m | |||||
22 R | ★★ Devoid | 35m | |||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | |||||
21 | ★★ Evans Above | 40m | |||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell — 2 attempts - with Dylan | 130m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Forgetting torches on our first attempt lead to a fun mini epic with bail off practice
Attempt 2 was wonderful! |
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Possibly Beautiful - with Jack Prowse | 28m | |||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Jack Prowse | 35m | |||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities - with Jack Prowse | 30m | |||||
Accidentally finished on Jason
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | |||||
Sarah and I planned to sleep in the pillars of hercules and this was our way up. We got to the base at maybe 9pm before realising we hadn't bought any nuts with us, so sarah led it with only cams, in true onsight fashion, where she couldn't even see past her torchlight. I seconded with the sleeping gear in my backpack, meaning that with my helmet I couldn't look up. Oh, and and i found out my phone fell out of my pocket, when we found it broken on a rock the following morning. overall a great night!
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11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | |||||
11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | |||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | |||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
9 | ★ Hope | 16m | |||||
7 | ★ Charity | 14m | |||||
5 | ★ Sincerity | 14m | |||||
12 | ★ Zorro | 12m | |||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece | 35m | |||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
13 Hard |
★ Lawrence
- with
AJ
1
9
35
lead by
AJ
Hot day, headed for shade. Wanted Arab but that was occupied, got a shrubbery instead.
2
13
35
lead by
John Pitcairn
Great pitch. Tried to go up the right side of huge block near end (hard), down thrutched, went up the rib out right with no pro (dumb), then made exposed traverse with slung chicken head (fun) to get back on line before belay. Stay left. There is booty at belay if you can be bothered.
3
13
30
lead by
AJ
Seemed over all too soon. Hot walk back to camp then too hot, hit Nati for a beer. | 100m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Stalagmite - with Alisa | 36m | |||||
11 | ★★ Dracula - with Alisa | 40m | |||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Alisa | 130m | |||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell | 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great fun. Hardest moves were on the very bottom crack.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber | |||||||
V3 | ★ 2) deep V — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Kinda sketch topout
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
9 ~10 | ★ Diagonal Crack | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||||
22 Easy | ★ Cogito Ergo Wobble | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice and exposed in comparison to the rest of garden wall
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18 Hard | ★ Brown Thumb | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | Average | ||||
19 | ★★ Possibly Beautiful | 28m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit unsure on the line for this one. I touched golden fleece at its crux, but didnt find much of a line that could completely avoid it. Hope i hit the right thing
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
13 ~14 |
★★ Dunes Direct
- with
T-R Climbs
1
13
30
2
11
25
3
10
22
4
12
23
| 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice climbing. Each pitch offers something interesting.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||||
11 | ★★ Pedro - with Jean | 36m | |||||
Worth queuing up for on the long weekend. Beautiful 3D climbing with plenty of options for gear.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dunes
- with
Paige D
1
30m
Got a bit off route - trended right up slab, gained overlap on right avoiding cruxy seam.
2
25m
lead by
Andrew Grech
4
23m
| 100m | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Shane V | 130m | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||||
24 | ★★ Dreadnought - with Sean Charles | 54m | |||||
1 burn putting the gear in. 2 send attempts. Keen to come back. Was getting to the crux. From gaining the rail (top of vert section) get high feet then throw left to pinch with thumb catch on slippery block. Then bump left to good jug then one more hard move.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 |
★ Transylvania P1
- with
Olivia
1
| 60m, 1 | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
13 ~14 | ★★ Dunes Direct - with gerg | 100m | ★ Good | ||||
First crack section was a bit thrutchy and desperate!
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12 | ★★ Dunes - with gerg | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
17 ~18 | ★★★ Mari - with John Capretta | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Am awesome climb, provided you don't have the worst time of your life...
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ Lawrence - with Heath Manning | 100m | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Oh Bondage - with Andy | 15m | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
11 |
★ Transylvania
- with
Andy
1
2
| 60m, 1 | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | |||||||
15 | ★ Puppy Love - with Andy | 35m | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | |||||
Got my red cam stuck halfway up. Had to come back at night with Jack Leerson and an axe to bash it out.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||||
13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | |||||
11 | ★★ Dracula | 40m | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | |||||||
11 ~12 | ★★ Red Parrot Chasm - with Mason Finney | 55m | Crap | ||||
Very run out, bailed onto Josies anchors at halfway point.... dodgy AF!
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari - with Floyd turbill, Hugo Lynch | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac - with Floyd turbill, Hugo Lynch | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Brown Thumb - with Mason Finney | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
19 ~18 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop - with Mason Finney | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 Easy | ★ Cogito Ergo Wobble - with Floyd turbill | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac - with Tim Schofield | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb. It was a good warm up for Mari. I don't remember much of it after doing Mari though haha.
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17 | ★★★ Mari - with Tim Schofield | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This climb was epic. Terrifying but so good.
Rack beta: Despite appearances, you don't need more than a double rack up to #2 BD cams. A single #3 is nice but not necessary.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ A Weed in the Garden - with Tim Schofield | 26m | Average | ||||
I felt like it was a bit of a sandbag but I'm reserving my judgement on that. Not sure it's worth the one star it's got, but I was tired and it was the end of the day so maybe I was a bit grumpy. The climb also felt a bit run out and sketchy, especially for the first half.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||||
22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Intransience - with Kat🏔 | 25m | |||||
Beautiful route. Wish those incut crimps went for longer. Gear felt pretty good also!
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22 | ★★ Cecilia - with Kat🏔 | 25m, 4 | |||||
Wish I just jumped for the jug, all the hard moves are before it… Definitely easier from there. But start moves were 22 for me for sure.
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber | |||||||
V5 | ★★ 5) Second thin seam | 4m | |||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||||
16 |
★★ Arab
1
16
25
2
10
3
3
15
4
25
5
32
| 110m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
- with
Meike Pummer
1
35m
2
40m
3
15m
4
40m
| 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
rpt first move is still bullshit, yet still one of the best
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle | |||||||
10 | The Minstrel | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Had fun getting a party of four up top to hangout and enjoy the view
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