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Ascents in Mount Buffalo as trad by gaetan

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Showing all 23 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Date
Mount Buffalo The Back Wall Area Back Wall
15 Quartz Route Variant Trad Good Sun 18th Mar 2012
There is know an abseil line, no need to bushwack down like we did.Great climb , the quartz pitch is awesome

 
Mount Buffalo The Hump Area The Hump
18 The Initiation - with Thara
1 lead by Gaetan
2 lead by Thara
3 lead by Gaetan
4 lead by Thara
Mixed trad 90m, 1 Very Good Wed 10th Dec 2014
Cool climb, good warm up for the trip. We managed to sort of miss the start despite what should be an easy abseil in. Also missed the new shiny bolt on the traverse pitch.

 
22 The Icing On The Cake - with Mattyj
1 22
2 21
Mixed trad 75m, 9 Very Good Wed 27th Apr 2016
Steep slab, desperate at time but with some nice holds towards the top. Started where it branches of initiation, as we had both done initiation before. Managed to second the 2nd pitch clean somehow ! It's quite run out and would be better with a couple extra carrot.

 
19 Run free with the buffalo - with Chris Harper, Mattyj Mixed trad 30m, 6 Good Sun 24th Apr 2016
Another nicely protected slab. 30m to double carrot belay

 
19 Chickens in Choppers - with Chris Harper, Mattyj Mixed trad 30m, 7 Good Sun 24th Apr 2016
Nice protected slab, route is 30m to the double carrot belay.

 
20 Cows with Guns - with Chris Harper, Mattyj Mixed trad 50m, 7 Good Sun 24th Apr 2016
Nice slabbing on slightly featured wall.

 
Mount Buffalo The Cathedral
17 Maharajah Trad 42m Sat 17th Mar 2012
probably not the best climb to jump on at the time, for a first one at buffalo.

 
21 Sultan Trad 65m Very Good Sat 17th Mar 2012
20 Sultan - with Thara Trad 65m Very Good Fri 12th Dec 2014
Fell on the last overlap, got a bit tired clipping the bolt, which is not really needed. Awesome climb though. There is 2 stuck nut at second belay.

 
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Wilkinson's Lookout
21 Silk And Satin Trad 25m Very Good Sun 26th Jan 2014
awesome corner crack, sustained

 
21 Silk And Satin Trad 25m Very Good Fri 12th Dec 2014
Such a good climb ! shame I was a bit too tired to go for the lead, happy to have seconded it again.

 
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area
15 What Ethics? - with Chris Harper Mixed trad 10m, 1 Average Mon 30th Mar 2015
Nice little number, not as straight forward as it looks

 
18 Beowulf Trad 20m Good Sun 26th Jan 2014
A bit stiff for 18 but great climb

 
18 Beowulf - with Chris Harper Trad 20m Good Mon 30th Mar 2015
Easier if you don't have to place the gear

 
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse
18 Caligula - with Chris Harper
1 lead by Gaetan
2 lead by Chris
Trad 60m Classic Mon 30th Mar 2015
Good old school wide crack and awesome position. Had to rest on the rope on the second pitch to get the #4 out, looks like it had walked in. Did all the move clean though.

 
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout
21 The Status Quo
1 lead by Thara
2 lead by Gaetan
3 lead by Thara
Trad 96m Classic Thu 11th Dec 2014
First pitch (left variant) not great, maybe the right variant is better. Second pitch is an awesome sustained corner. we cleaned the grass so it's quite nice now, but still a bit mossy. Found the last pitch hard for the grade, compared to the other 21 I did at buffalo (maybe 22?) This pitch is still a bit grassy, but there is now a stuck nut above the last belay. Great route though.

 
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress
17 Where Angels Fear to Tread (Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Finish) Trad 230m Classic Wed 24th Apr 2013
Lead the first pitch and the offwith one. Great day out, we were just a bit slow due 3 people team and rope shinnanigans.

 
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress
21 Commander Cody Trad 30m Good Mon 27th Jan 2014
got a bit scared by the run out, turn out to be fine

 
21 Commander Cody - with Chris Harper Trad 30m Good Sun 29th Mar 2015
Glad for the #5 cam this time, my endurance being shit I got a bit pumped but managed to push through and keep it together. Great line.

 
15 Devilled Cream - with Chris Harper Trad 64m Average Sun 29th Mar 2015
First pitch is a nice intro to Angels style, although a bit too wide in place. Second pitch is crap really. Chris linked both pitches.

 
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim
16 Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé Trad 30m Good Mon 19th Mar 2012
20 Home James Mixed trad 30m, 4 Very Good Sun 26th Jan 2014
20 Home James - with Chris Harper Mixed trad 30m, 4 Very Good Sun 29th Mar 2015
Awesome face climbing on Dykes. Bolting is a bit spaced but where you need them, and takes a bit of gear as well

 

Showing all 23 ascents.

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