Routes in Mt Alexander for selected grade

Stand-start and make a one-move-wonder to the good large hold where the arete flattens out. Mantel to finish. So named because the slabby arete above is where the real problem should go.

Stand-start to the right of SSatH. Climb the slab directly via some thin moves

Stand-start and climb the arête which eases at the top. Since tree fell against arete start now considerably more awkward and more like V2.

Overhanging arete on the boulder right of the main boulder. Short. Opposite Lama's V1. Not on the bolus boulder.

Start on the boulder to the right of the Bolus boulder. From a good hold on the right arete, traverse from R to L (tricky move in the middle) ending up on the Bolus boulder. Finish easily. I was there. The rock was there. I thought I may as well climb it. It may well have been done before. Most probably by me!

Climb the wall and cracks. Sit start.

Start on top of the boulder, and circumnavigate the horn. Add a few grades if you avoid the detached block as a foothold. 3 stars if this is your kind of thing, less than zero if you like your forearm skin.

Start with Hands on the Good Quartz jugs, and feet on the textured quartz rail. Traverse left gaining good feet, then up into tricky moves before topping out through thin seam. Avoid using Right arete.

Sit start with good hands and cryptic feet. Slap up the opposing aretes to top out hugging the mossy capstone. Good hands can be found without clearing the moss and lichen beds.

From a sit, climb the Left arete being careful to avoid detaching the lower half of the weak flake.

Start with notch on the bulge and gaston in the crack and climb the bulge.

Stand start with left on arete and right in small crack. Up arete and face to fridge hugging before top-out, avoid using tree limb.

Central arete on fragile holds. Careful. Stand start.

Stand start and go up centre of wall.

Sit start and up sloping arete.

Sit start and climb the crack around the corner from 'Pemberley'.

Climb the central line.

Start as for Move more move, but step right using good underclings to easy top out.

Stand start using sloper and climb up to Horizontal break. Continue up short slab above and committing mantle to finish.

A bit committing slab problem.

Sit start with slopey Right hand, and good undercling. Fun sequence gains high feet, then top out at pinnacle of boulder.

Perfect hand-fist sized crack located in the gully downhill of the walk-in to Outer Kingdom.

Sit start inside the split egg of meteor hammer. Climb vertical left arete of the back half of the split egg.

Cool low ball! SDS left hand on arete and right-hand on good crimp in middle of face. Pull on and slap up the right arete before rocking over onto the left face.

Sit start using pinch on left hand side. Move up and across to top out on right hand side.

Sit start on right hand side. Move up to crack then left to the middle of the wall. Right hand on good hold then to the top.

Sit-start and climb the outer arete of the pinnacle.

Cruisy slab right of FUPV without arete. Don’t pitch into the hole!

Climb arete on right side of the graffiti from a sit.

The left arete of graffiti’d wall from a sit.

Sit-start and climb the obvious crackline.

Start right below the first bolt, without using the block or anything right of the flake.

Note: As of June 2017, one of the belay bolts is loose. The remaining good bolt can be backed up with trad gear.

Bummy wall/arête around corner from Wave Wall.

Stand start and climb the arete. Hollow, xylophone holds near the top. Don't use the boulder on the left.

Start as for Bastet but move directly to the triangular jug on the right in the groove/ramp. Then match and get the second triangular hold further right with your feet on the ramp. Finish using these good holds.

Sit start and climb direct.

Enjoy the lovely first half of Hands of Odysseus without scaring yourself at the top. Escape half-way onto the large ledge.

Sit start

A nice little face with good rock 150m down and right of the Wall. Right arete of downhill face. V2/3.

A nice little face with good rock 150m down and right of the Wall. Right arete of downhill face. V2/3.

Start with left hand in good slot under roof, right on flat sidepull face. Rock up ledges into brief crack system before jugs.

Sounds better than chicken crack. Start on the horizontal break and climb the crack. Can sit start at same grade.

Just below the chicken-related routes facing west. Sit start with good right hand, and large flakes. Upward using side-pull to the edge, avoiding feet on the adjacent boulder. Though slightly contrived; a worthwhile challenge is to avoid the flakes altogether at around V4.

Opposite to Stop Point-Motion there's a nice warm up that can be traversed over and over.

Sit start on the corner to the right of Let's get started, stand up and traverse left. Avoid hollow bits on Cornflake and Let's get started rest on the easy bit and continue all the way to the starting holds.

Stand start.

Around the corner from Pullin' Rock and below Stop-Point Motion etc. Sit start using the base of thin seam, and sharp pocket. Up through a powerful move to top out.

Pull off good edges to side pull with left hand. Up to sloper then out.

Almost makes the chimney worthwhile. Links Mystery Chimney into Myth of Tomorrow after pulling the lip to make an all sport affair.

Mixed chimney / offwidth line to the right of Myth of Tomorrow. Has three hangers then gear up the final slabby fist crack. Trad belay, walk off. Chockstone comments "Looks like it might swallow you whole and spit out the pips". Careful not to chop your rope if you pull off one of the flakes.. FA unknown

Left of Spittle project. Stand start using a low pocket on the right hand side of the arete. Climb up the arete. At the top move left until you get a good hold about 1m left of the arete. Top out via a mantle. Loose!

Stand start without many feet. Climb the crack on the northern side of the boulder.

On the boulder across from Uncertain Lifestyles (to the south).

Sit start the fridge-like arete, RH crimp and LH slap. Slap up, mantle and topout.

Start beneath Land of Plenty and traverse left avoiding the crack/jugs. Gain large slopey crimp and top out.

Sit-start and climb the arete left of The Shining Wall.

Sit-start and climb the arete behind The Shining Wall boulder. Follow the arete all the way up and left as it flattens out.

Awkward to get started, then a lazy highball to the top

The obvious left-hand sloping crack, sustained.

Originally lead from the ground. Now easier off the fallen tree. Lovely sustained smearing and “dime-sized” edges lead past 4BRs.

Start 4m left of Poised To Strike. Quiver your way past 2 carrot bolts on excellent fine-grained granite.

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Match the sloper and top out.

Climb the bulge.

Climb the arete to the right of Go with the flow. Don't use the crack itself. Hard first half then eases considerably when you get yourself established on better footholds after lay-backing the arete and high-stepping. A really nice line with good climbing. Soloed after top roping.

Climb the centre of the slab between the two cracks. Nice climbing. Second half of the climb is harder than the first, with the crux being the last move. FA on top rope by Sam North on 8/4/2018. Soloed after top rope on 1/3/19 by Pete Reynolds.

Climb the obvious ramp.

Climb the arete on the right hand side.

Climb the right side of the arete

Takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall

On the north side of Rhomboid boulder (4m left of Conflict Diamond). Stand start and climb the featured, balancey face.

Arete

Climb the beautiful arete on the right-hand side. A bit scary.

Start atop the detached pillar and jump to the ledge to the right of Freerider. Mantle to finish.

The obvious diagonal seam down left of TTR climbs well and has undoubtably been done before. Slightly left of where marked on topo.

Climb the arete without the left-hand side wall.

Stand up on high feet with right arete and make a few moves to top out. subtract a grade if you are tall enough to reach the high left sloper.

On face to the left of Concrete Boots. Stand start matching on the rail, up to arete and second rail, traverse right to top out on the big blobby jug.

Start as for Tabaqui but continue the traverse rightward into Concrete boots before topping out.

Climb the arete on it's right-hand side from a stand-start.

Climb the arete on it's left-hand side from a stand-start.

Up the wall to the left of Ebb and Flow past two carrot bolts.

Start on fallen over log, up obvious crack to direct finish up and over, don't go around the arete. May need to place a directional if top-roping to avoid whipping into tree.

Link up between DM and McD, guide says it's 25+ but nothing like that

No pro. Up slab L of HISP.

Thin face with a single fixed hanger at about 4m.

Start at vertical crack on the RHS of the alcove. Up this then traverse L to finish up wide crack. This was originally graded 18 and was later upgraded to 20. If you only use the crack and don't bridge across to the left hand wall, or climb around the start, then this climb is more like 22

Start at Semantics then continue direct up the arete left of the roof.

Popular face climbing past BRs to a DBB.

Climb the crack and arete to top out.

Arete near Little Bo Peep.

Sit start on the upper rail of jugs (clear the possum refuse off first). Traverse to the Right to gain the jug, mantle to gain the arete, then up to sloping top out. Well worth brushing the upper holds vigorously before climbing.