Ascents in Central having Beta

Quick stop at Bowen. Worked this problem for half hour. Sun gods were shining in my favour!

AC Danabus

Used to access the Butterfly Wall anchors.

One move passed the crux and a hold broke causing a fall 😭. This is an absolute cracker of a route. Tiny crimps, tiny side pulls and tiny footholds.

cut fingers on the second attempt to top the route cleanly =(

Stopped by 1770 for a quick look. Did this one. Wasn't brave enough to try the others without a pad

Gritty top out

Pretty hard, couldn't quite stick it

So much fun I had to give it a second lap.

Toughest 13 I've ever done. Was running laps on sweet remedy beside it and didn't have to try so hard as on these waxy blocks

Much oophing. Did a foot hold break off at the crux?

Ooooph.

Fairly hard start, though likely just beta intensive.

Difficult climb to start for a shorter climb. After 3rd bolt the climb is relatively easy.

Sent crux a few times ! now to link it up and send. 26/27

Worked all the moves time to put anchors in and try send. Grade 21 climbing with a V5 crux’s in the middle.

Contrived but good. Did it once going straight to the crescent hold but then up/right... Went again (few tries) heading left from that hold. Definitely more of a struggle

Savage second move. Stopped in the name of skin preservation, although don't think it was going today anyway

Scosh's fa

Started even further right than suggested...

Got about half height first go but the holds felt so damn spooge. Bailed to reassess - feel pretty high up top!

Iconic

Done as a sport route & pumpy for the grade.

Unreal. Great movement, great rock, great location

Big move to the lip

Fun as

Awesome line. Technical and quite committing up top

Cheese grater

Satisfying move

Bit of a treat. Didn't know there was climbing at 1770! Lots of potential on this headland

Using dirty cracks and small feet on face probably around 16-17, perhaps easier with a couple more attempts smoothing out the beta. Fun enough while at the wall, warm down after the crimpy routes to the left

Maybe for the masochistic to start from the back wall of the skinny cave and offwidth roof crack climb out to make it worth it. Otherwise small battle to get started, not worth the lantana and grass itch, bats were more exciting, a walk up. Vertical hand jam back towards the highway would be great if it was ten times longer.

Down climbed it with 100m of 11mm rope on my back and loose fitting volleys just to feel something. Not worth the lantana and grass itch

Hard to read with some committing moves!

Kicking off the road trip climbing ledger. Fun, airy climbing overlooking rocky.

Surprisingly hard to read, perhaps harder than a 13?

Pretty fun little route, rock felt good

Found this little gem next to the megacave. Super fun route. The climbing position is epic!

Great little find. Only had one #4 with me so had to bump it a couple of metres. Good little offwidth sections that are well protectable. The megawide section in the top has many options for small cams.

Snagged the FFA two days after falling at the end of the crux on the FA. The stemming beta I had worked out worked a treat. Amazing climbing doing moves I have never done before on the most incredibly frictioned rock. One of my most proudest First ascents and a great climb. Added a DBB at top.

Reclimbed this to access Nightowl to attempt FFA.

Went for the first ascent and almost pulled off the onsight but fell at the end of the roof exit ripping a micrcam. Pulled back on and after much thought solved problem with pure friction stemming to classy rockover move to exit. Easily up wide cracked corner to top.

Fun route that climbed better than it looked in the top half. Have now installed DBB to access second pitch and make belay and rapping safer.

Super fun and exposed route at the top. Great to put up a first ascent Multi ground up with Scott on his birthday.

Apt name… bit breaky but fun 🤩