Ascents in Central as Hang dog

One move passed the crux and a hold broke causing a fall 😭. This is an absolute cracker of a route. Tiny crimps, tiny side pulls and tiny footholds.

cut fingers on the second attempt to top the route cleanly =(

Much oophing. Did a foot hold break off at the crux?

Hard to read with some committing moves!

Pretty fun little route, rock felt good

First climb with the s/h EB Torch shoes. Rubber and lack of stiffness did not help.

Forgot one move at crux and had to rest.

New Beta thanks to Alan unlocked the tricky start. More strength needed though.

So close to getting clean on both attempts. Arms getting pumped out from the crack.

Climbing was great up past the first belay point but the last 2-3mtrs are technical and more in the region of Grade 22. Strained back muscle and had to grab the draw to reach the anchors.

Pumpy and very cool movement. Rest x1.

Really cool exposure. Technical pumpy moves. Rest x1.

Hold broke

Was supposed to be the mornings warm-up which turned into a bit of an adventure in the summer sun.

The roof we're all hooked and pulling up on looks to have a large flake on the underside in the process on seperating. It sounded very hollow and i wasn't confident climbing up on. I might not be 100% correct but be careful when climbing it, if the flake comes loose then i fear the roof won't be safe. So I moved out onto the face and climbed up right on GBR and had two large Christmas platter sized flakes, one on top of the other and balancing on the edge of roof greet me. I slowly moved up next to them on roof, wriggled them away from the edge and wedged smaller rocks underneath. It was all a bit draining in the heat. The offwidth section was good and strenuous, minus being stung by WASPS, the WASP NEST, halfway up is hanging in a little bush growing on the left face.

Take to clean stuck cam but otherwise clean. Great Cania climbing on big gear and what beautiful offwidth moves to finish. One for a lead next time.

Either some holds have ripped off or this is the most sandbagged 22 I’ve ever witnessed. I’d say it definitely goes at a 24, if not 25. Great route but some pretty committing moves, interesting sequence and sketchy rock. Blew off twice from rock ripping off, and took a while to crack the beta between 3rd to 4th. Looks like clipping hold at the anchors has recently ripped so had to clip it pretty low. But pretty keen to get back onto it!

Tried some different beta, starting to come together.

Took a sit after the crux at the wide bit. Should have pushed through!

The first pitch would actually be really good if not for all the dead grass and dirt. The second pitch is nails hard. After an initially attempt I aided through the hard section and lowered to try the moves. They go, but would be around 24/25, although placing gear through that section would be tricky on redpoint. The roof on the third pitch isn't that hard and I was able to link it with the second pitch.

Didn't commit to the micro crimp and slipped off.