Ascents in Queensland by Matthew Robbins

Punt.

Went for an onsight attempt but retreated back down at the first bolt. Climbing is classsy but the bolts do not look to be in a healthy state.

Happy to have tried it (Frog has lots of hidden gems but this isn't one of them), happy to have exercised good risk assessment and bailed.

Seeing how it felt +1 year. Top crack still easy, bottom crux feels like it’d go any shot but could also be another 5 sessions of bad luck. Might leave it for end of the season.

Account closed.

Sensational, sustained arete and compression climbing. Unrelenting until the final body crack, which unfortunately keeps it from being a 3 star route.

Stoked af.

Encouraging! Done cold and while at the tail end of the flu.

Send attempts Saturday.

Well, that was unexpected. 🤷‍♂️

Having barely climbed in Europe was aiming just to reacquaint with gear and beta with the hope of a decent link. Ended up accidentally sending it on top rope solo.

Scratching an itch that’s been with me since late last year. Glad to say this thing is bloody brilliant!

Text book example of why I think the mid-20s grades at Frog are where some of its best climbing is: sustained, graceful and technical climbing where the crack is only really there for pro.

All moves -2 free and linked from ground to halfway. Maybe 75% of the gear sorted? Probably need another two size-1 ball nuts to make it sane. Will be a pink point route for me, gear finicky af to place on lead.

Punted at the last move before the mantle to the chains. 🤷‍♂️

Well done to Troy McAndrew and Liamtemp for their sends though!

First time at Andromeda just to get away from desk work and be out on some rock. There are some beauty, fun lines here!

Lap to get Troy to afterlife.

I redact my previous R rating statement. Found a bomber #3 cam so runout eliminated and all placements sorted.

Linked ground to final mantle so probably time for tie ins!

Thanks for the catches Troy McAndrew 🙏

Cruisey red point this week to get Liam up to Afterlife.

This would be a hectic onsight, the gear on this is very hard to find.

In the R rating territory with some hard moves above shallow brass wires... Definitely a head point route for me.

Somehow got crux onsight and then pumped out in a finger lock on glassy feet trying to finish traversing into the easy terrain. Completely misread it, went easily once I wasn’t gripped and had a clear head. 🤷‍♂️

Very, very Arapilian style climbing.

A stonker of a trad line!

Whipped on the crux of P1 and broke a fragile flake that was wedged into some dirt. Cleaned up the dirt and loose rock and it opened up into a small hand crack… which probably make P1s crux a bit easier?

Sent P1 comfortably on 2nd tie in with gear/beta knowledge and without the pressure of trying to onsight.

P1 only, linked into the HB variant.

Technical climbing that can be straightforward with the right beta but real punchy without. Feel like 2 of the 5 tie ins were just for rock cleaning and discovering/chalking holds.

A sport route for crack climbers! 🙈

Impressive work by Kyle onsighting the route end of the day.

First pitch is where the stars are at. Second pitch is ehhhh

Cryptic!

Damn good! Can’t believe I’ve walked past these routes for years.

Brilliant, honest ticcy taccy crimping. Took more attempts than ideal but executed it perfectly on the send so happy with that!

Big gear would have been nice but honestly fine without it. Two #4’s made it tame.

Much better than expected!

Just still so outrageously good. 😚 👌

A two year project finally put to bed. 👌👌

Everyone, say hello to Savage Sunday, Queenslands trashy cousin to Arapiles Glory Rodent.

I’m very satisfied to put this down and a little surprised that it hasn’t had an ascent before? In any case, heck, I’ll take the FFA.

When I first started this in mid-2021, I was convinced this was going to be 24ish. But with a few more trad routes under my belt and a 5 grade jump since then, 22/23 seems more on point. The send took some effort, but it went pretty easily once the beta was solved.

If you love trad climbing, roof cracks, rock rash, dirt and have a slight disdain for your belayers, then this is the route for you!

Named to continue the area's theme and after a Henry Barber route, Savage Journey, at Lost World in Tassie.

Practice run to find gear for the top of the FFA. New route for Brooyar incoming 😉

Apparently 2 years since I was last on this. All moves unlocked and felt good. Maybe next session it’d go?

Just missed first move on the first shot but got it comfortably straight after.

I spooked a big mama Peregrine Falcon and spent the last bolt to the chains fending her off while she dive bombed me.

So…. What’s the ethic for adding a grade when you’re fighting off the local wildlife mid route? 😂

Nice to have a win and see clear progression from training after getting shutdown at Frog. Thanks for the catch and a great day out Piet 🙏

Definitely in the “why the hell would you climb that” list. Kinda enjoyed it!

Probably in the 5 worst things I’ve been on haha

Done in approachies and gloveless… Would probably go at 18/19 at Frog 🤷‍♂️

Then again, I never ever boulder so who knows.

Ran out of draws so clipped a cam to a wire as a makeshift quickdraw. Thats some big brain shit I tell you!

Very close now, all moves free/one sit and doing red point attempts. Just need to stick one move and it’s over. Out of skin again, time to wait another week.

Clean link from finger crack all the way to the end so some decent progression. Rib barely gave any trouble as well! Absolutely zero skin for a Red-Point shot but feels to be closing in.