Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Sit start, matched in the slopey pocket. Up to gain the scoop, mantle.

Start at small ceiling crack and work your way through jugs, a mega pinch and crimps for a mad dyno finish. This problem is a matched finish on the obvious flat ledge.

Starman left to right version.

Tricky little problem from hard sit start to horrible mantle high up.

Airy climbing following the great holds up the obvious arête.

Up the blunt arete on sharp crimpers, to first carrot 4-5m up (gear possible in large overlapping flake), then up to FH, then past another 3 carrots, then small gear to top-out.

From UV belay station traverse left upward following the ramp. Once over the bulge it's easy climbing to the anchor. This large ledge give access to the Dawn Wall above.

A short but enjoyable line that is more challenging than it first appears. Rappel off tree at bottom of Main Wall to access anchors. The missing plate is now in place and also a bolt for the belayer at the start to avoid falls from the small ledge

Left hand on good undercling. Right hand out wide for sidepull. Feet kinda pinching on low vertical edge. Straight up.

Starts left of large grass tree under cave. Stickclip first bolt and either climb direct or come in from the left over first bolt. Interesting moves through cave to pull onto wall above. Carefully through to upper cave which holds one of Ninderry's finest views. Shared anchor with Distraction Utopia. *Please respect the resident Falcon.

Sit start the right arete with a high LH side pull and low undercling. Straight up!

A good groove with a dangerous but easily avoidable finish. Start directly underneath the groove.

John Schwerdfeger, Shane Stephenson 6/92

Or just finish up Smiley. (Shane Stephenson, Mark Boston 6/92)

Right to left canyon traverse - No lip for the grade. V0 with the lip.

Start in between 'Climb 13' & 'Climb 14', using ledge to balance/throw to the top and mantle out.

Back wall in the boulders facing towards Arcadia. Stand start with flake side pull. Straight up. Pulling on is the highlight.

Start as for Overhead Transparency but half way up the fridge bust left and up the poopy slab.

Bolt protected and quite hard and a bit runout. Three FH’s.

Start by climbing through a giant hueco on the right side of the cave and then straight up to mantle.

Sit start at the round arete. One strenuous move off the ground brings you to the jug beneath the small roof.

This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side!

Up wall on good edges to jug and FH. Tend up and right over ramped ledge to FH. Continue up into corner passing 2 more FH. and jug over lip. Mantle and on to mallions.

Start at the arête right of Snake Skin Crack. Up passing four bolts. Small cam after second bolt. number three friend in a pocket to right of small roof just below top. Move left to finish

A squeeze, but so what. Shares first bolt with Five Point. Goes a little L after bolt 3 into the underclings. Shares a few holds with COYS before busting R and up. Same top as the others. Can certainly be done punching R lower on some cool intense side pulls at 23 but is unfortunately contrived.

Update: All the bolts on pitch 1 have been chopped by ranger.

An awesome little 2 pitch multi located on the upper platform to right of "Phantastic Phallus".

1. 15m (18) Starts at the obvious dihedral corner, a fun and cruisy climb to the top though not as easy as it looks. Can be easy for some and hard for others.

2. 22m (21) Climb over the big block at the first pitch anchor, clip the first bolt then follow the wandering route of bolts around the wall diagonally up and right through the thin balancey crux. Then head up the main wall but take time to rest as it's sustained and the good holds aren't obvious which can take a while to find. The last two bolts are run out which brings a little spice to the head game.

Finish at the chain & ring anchor, then rap back down to the first pitch anchor. Excellent moves, good variety, great fun, nice exposure and views into the valley below.

Stick clip the first FH. Tricky start, cruxy to the second FH. Then engaging and consistent to the top.(about 16-17 after the second FH) its possible to get down on rope stretch on an 80m rope.

A short, pumpy line with an early crux which has two possible variations. Stay left after the first bolt for the much harder of the two. There is a DBB at the 4th clip for top-roping and lower off or continue up to top out.

Start: just around the corner as you arrive at the block/cliff.

(Note: there are trad options available on this route, if one so chooses.)

A mix of slab, cave, vert and crimp. The only Rona Wall route to have it’s own first bolt, up and right from the belay station. Shares the anchors with ‘Maggie’s on the Bogroll’.

Start matched on the low sloping jug. Line of least resistance takes you around its jaw where you grab his eyebrows and slap him in the face to mantle. Great beginner problem! Chockstones are out.

Balancy face climbing starting at the obvious curving flake. Up and then right to top out.

See also the variant "Jason's Problem Low Start"

Start just L of 'Humped' on wall edges and throw to rail with L hand. Mantle out.

Starting as per AETSS, but traversing left along the lip up the hill.

Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point.

Sit start in the same place as Down to a Sunless Sea. Go left into the big vertical crack and then up. Boulders below are out.

Up the obvious cool features. A nice under cling mid way up.

A sweet route, like our Glühwein would have been, had it not ended up in the gutter back in Brisbane...

Line of four hangers 5m right of Bitter Aftertaste. Rap anchors in a block at the top.

First bolt missing hanger 08/23.

As for JB to the 1st bolt, climbing the face just R of the arete past 4 more bolts to a good finish.

Direct finish - Straight up from the 9th UB avoiding the leftward traverse.

Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top.

Popular face climbing directly up the slabby wall to the final corner of RS. FHs and some natural gear. There is a great looking finish out L of the top corner to be done.

Starts just left of Winter Winds. Straight up to a bolt at about 12 metres and onwards. Double bolt belay and rap.

This route has been retro-bolted.

Start: Directly in front of Light Box #12. Climb the spreading Fig tree at the start to first BR, then thin moves up to a ledge, move Right along this to 2nd BR. Straight up to a 3rd BR just Left of the arete, then traverse Right under the overhung & up the blank corner passing another 3 RBs to chains.

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

Sit start on small LH pocket, and good RH. Boulder on the right is out. Climb the arete. Make like a Pandanus and up up up!

Up the arete, sit start is not yet done.

Sit start on a good left hand side pull and a right gaston in the crack. Pull on and bump right to a slopy side pull and move left to a small but positive crimp on the face. From here, sort feet and move right to a sloper, then left to positive crimps up high to top out. Gets its name for some interesting foot beta that makes the start much easier.

Climb the perfect finger crack using locks and lie back technique. Located uphill of boulder #19 as listed in the Peter Crane topo.

Great dynamic problem up the steep blunt arete.

Right side of pink bits slab, staying off arete. Nice moves.

The long groove 1m right of IP requires numerous crack masteries to get to the top! Up to the bulge, passing this on the R. From here up a long and desperate off-width like corner, stepping L at the top. Gear is adequate.

Starts right of the ominous face, following a chimney, traversing to the arête, up to anchors, double fixed hanger anchor

The easier, stand start variant of Crossing Borders. Stand start on river side face of boulder. Up and slightly left using arete and features on the face.

Shaky climbing on friable holds. Up the bottom crack of YUTV to a ledge. Lean out R and clip the bolt. Step down and traverse out R to the arete. From here, bowel quivering moves lead past another bolt, and some questionable RP's to the top.

Up corners following RBs and into cracked corner system on gear and onto cracked face, up the face/finger crack to a cruel and unusual exit into a smooth groove, could be a little sandy here depending on traffic. From there up any line to the top.

Start: Just before the white vertical beach look for the first ring at head height.

Start 1m R of 'Sticky Fingers'. Up slab to shaft. Up this with awkward placements to ledge. Clip FH and blast through bulge. Continue up shaft on RP's, small wires and a FH to ledge. Finish directly up 'Hex Heaven's flared corner.

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill.

Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to anchor on steep wall.

Quite varied climbing. Bouldery start up seam onto balancy slab/corner. Contort L into finger crack to layoff though bulge, then easier slab climbing to top (station on L). Four FH’s. Please be careful clipping the second bolt, or stickclip it.

Start just left of CS following the line of bolts and natural gear to anchors

Start on bushy ledge accessed either via 'Traverse Link to 'HtWT'' or by abseil from the top. The abseil is from double U bolts located 15m uphill from rings 19 & 20 (the top of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot').

Very hard to the first bolt and very tricky to the second. Use the U bolt tie down for the belayer to minimise leader fall from first bolt.

Interesting climbing up through the prominent crack feature before blasting out through the rooflet.

Starts immediately right of the small cave.

Sit start matched on the undercling, up and over.

Start: 5m left of The Capitalist, just right of a small bush.

Up to the chains. The blank section above cuts this route short.

Note: the 2nd bolt is in decking out territory, but there are plenty of trad gear options available, if one so chooses.

SS on very sharp side pull(not the big jugs)

Up the corner to the ledge, face just R of the corner past three carrots.

Well protected climb with steep hand jamming finish up splitter crack! U bolt anchor.

​Starts in the middle of the vertical face 1 to 1.5m right of a slow escape. Stand start pinching two rib high chockstones. Straight up. Probably v2, maybe a soft 3.

A fun undercling climb that tests your smear skills and endurance.

Start far right of obvious long, large, horizontal crack. Work your way up and onto the face of the cliff. Smear and undercling your way to the left until you hit a small cave section. Tricky section after a undercling pump, but look for holds and you will be rewarded.

Finish by climbing down at the end of the underclinging crack.

Reverse works too but it has a tricky start.

Gets full sun from 8am - 2pm

Left of 2, really shitty bumstart on L arete, using large jug to lever up to large holds and easy slab. Only 1 hard move

Directly up the obvious arete from a sit start, with good sidepulls.

The next nine routes are in the tourist gully about twenty five metres left of the above route.

Start from the block next to the small arête to the left of the track as it turns right to the summit. Up the arête past two bolts. Tree belay well back.

Sitstart at the start of Full Tilt, then up on nice pockets and traverse out left around the arete to slopey topout up Bolton Boy Made Good.

Starts on L arete of the crag and goes up then out R to shared station. Five RBs to chain.

Stand start up the arete with the huge pockets. A bit committing.

Direct start to Rainbow Drop. Starts 2m left on the goldish rock and links into RD after 6 bolts.

Start seated with pad on spikes, work into crossing holds and then jug to topout. Cool movements.

Start as for DFAQL, then trend R and straight up large orange corner all the way to roof.

Sit start with left hand on the juggy arete and right hand in the LOW pocket.

Start with left hand on undercling and right hand on right arete. Work your way up the spine feature.

Stand start on big jug at lip of overhang then straight up.

Stand-start on small sharp R hand sidepull, L on undercling/sidepull or a crimp as wingspan allows. Get on the wall static then balancy footwork or just huck to high holds, traverse L to topout over middle of bloc.

Pad the hole, start on the arete into chill sidepull holds and semi jugs/pockets. Be wary of scrappy feet. Topout through flaring crack-like weakness

Sit start on the rocking boulder, then a single move dyno to the top.

A nice clean crack climb, its about an inch wide.

Follow up the arete to the right of Dexterity. strong start into a fingery balancy top section.

A wild jaunt up some unlikely looking territory that deposits you on Halfway House ledge. Nice climbing movement with placements where you need them on some really amazing rock. Leader should be solid at the grade to avoid an epic. Take two racks of cams, one set of wires and rp's.

Start right of Rubicon and 3m left of Clemency below orange cave.

1. 15m (16) Climb delicately trending slightly leftwards heading for sloping block at small ledge at base of vertical wall. Some solid placements if you search around. Trad belay at base of block. Note: beware large detatched block to right of belay.

2. 15m (19) Mount block and dont miss RP placement at chest height before balancing straight up the wall on sidepulls and high feet heading for left side of orange cave. Trad belay in large crack on left end.

3. 15m (17) Step left from belay to lip of cave and head straight up through steep blockiness on great rock until you reach Rubicons' first bolted belay on left.

4. 20m (Crux) (20) Step right from belay to steep groove right of arete and straight up. This pitch has some fantastic movement on great rock. Head straight up staying right of the arete to belay from small crack at back wall of orange alcove.

5. 10m (20) Trend diagonally left up headwall to surmount large bulge 5m right of Rubicons exiting moves. Hand traverse the lip until reaching a spot to mantle onto ramp. Head left to belay from Rubicons' final bolted belay.

Starts just left of the start of Lucky 13 and then follow bolts up the arete, eventually finishing on the left side of the arete.

Wander (probably roped) up gully right of Condor towards top of MPFC belay at base of left facing corner. Up this, then up finger crack and offwidth (which you can't see from the ground), left of the orange corner of Fawlty Towers. At ledge, step out right up finger crack. Scramble up to lookout to get off.

Crap name - good climb. The scene of Lee Skidmore's brush with death (4m grounder onto back on grisly boulders). Don't let that deter you though, there is bomber pro. Starts right around the corner from the above two routes, about 15m from S. Up the overhanging layback crack then L to arête (BR). Up L side of arête past another BR and some natural pro in pockets to ledge. Finish up the short face behind (BR). Mind rope drag, or use two.

Contrived, straight up the grey wall on the right side of Cardiac Arete to a large break, up right onto ledge. From here to top.

Line of three fixed hangers 2m right of Pet Cow. Bouldery start, then follow the somewhat hollow flakes and then straight up the nice juggy headwall, passing some good nut placements.

The third expansion bolt didn't tighten and we ended up with a Bitter Aftertaste in our mouths - just like when the Glühwein smashed in the gutter.

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Starts 2m right of "Small Wonder". Climb up short corner crack (medium-size cam) to ledge and corner to break then straight up to big pocket (large cam). Undercling and up staying right of the fixed hanger, traverse up lip of large cave a few moves then over lip of cave (crux) into large corner. Finish on run-out but easy slab. Anchors for top roping can be set up.

Novelty traverse across lip of cave starting on far right. Route gets steeper and steeper until final fun roof move. Rap chain.

Sport climb at the headland From car park follow track to the left, towards the headland, until you reach a track with a tree stump on right. Go down this dirt track to a rocky cove and go left. The first climb is behind the large boulders and the other about 50 to 100m past this towards the headland. Both well bolted with ring bolts.