Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Super committing line on the slab just to the right of the main cave. High with the crux at the top-out. Not the hardest line in the cave definitely the most serious. Prep really well for this problem. Skull n cross bones with poop everywhere.

The very obvious and scary looking rounded arete that splits the crag in two. Have fun and be safe. Serious poo territory.

Changed with First Ascentionist permission.

Start on the Gravel Pit jug, traverse right past the TIE Fighter flake, then continue right moving slightly up on jugs and pockets for hands, heel hooks and toe cams for feet. Then climb Horned Banthas to its finishing jug. With this many moves, it would be more appropriately graded 22.

Start at base of flake (same start as TIE Fighter) at the back of the cave, traverse left along flakes to finish at big jug on arete.

Mantle big triangular sloper.

Stand-Start as BOD (RH in bowl) except LH down low on good hold (side pull) and left foot on wall. Straight up then traversing right on small edges. The whole lip left off the little shrub is out. Finish on jugs under the rock stack, highest point of boulder (the same finish as The non-friction section)

Start right of brave heart In the obvious corner, straight up to exciting slopey top out.

Up slab to friendly pockets and very committing finish.

Two hand start on ledge directly below obvious pocket which serves as the finish to Wolf. Up to pocket then traverse right 1m. From here up via the obvious in cut ledge. V3 due to exposure and insecurity. Probably V2 difficulty.

Start at Fox traverse right a coupleof meters then top out

Start in big Hueco and traverse left into Polar Express

Start as for Orient Express and blast straight up out of the cave. Cleaned with Matt's hands on first ascent...May need a brush still.

This problem will help you train for moving a fridge. This is the boulder to the right of PE. Sit start with a hand on either side of the arete and bust a few burly slaps and heel hooks up the bloc. Classic movement

Sit start and trend slightly left. The crux involves moving off two small edges.

Sit start with the left side of the obvious scoop in the middle of the cave's lip, then blast up the the wall to a pleasant mantle out.

Sit-start matched on slopey crimp-rail, pull up left through better rail and either blast up to top or grapple with heinous intermediate on the way.

Start as for Alfred on the chalked jug on the left side, inside of cave. Move straight up on jugs and crimps, then dyno or do some body English to reach the jug mantle under the roof.

Sit start to the right of Bane Light” on two funky jugs next to the rail and a heel out right. Blast off to a fingery move, finishing on the bucket shelf. Don’t move/shake your mats around too much because....

Start on two poor holds at the very bottom end of the cave. Keep body tension high and pop to an other poor hold straight above and finish on the victory jug right behind. All good holds to the right are off!

The slab right of NBC, stand starting on high LH pocket (Cleopatra’s Eyes) and RH on lower slimper (sloping crimp). Technical, smeary climbing up to a committing top.

Left to right traverse starting at the obvious slopey pocket. Fingery and tensiony moves through the thin horizontal crack lead into an easy finish up Crack O'Lantern.

Sit start on the far right side of the boulder, with the right foot in a pocket, LH on a pinch, and RH meathook around the point of the arête. Climb the arête using a couple of powerful meathooks. Short but stout.

Stand start in two underclings, with the RH near the right arête and good feet out left. Move up RH to a small but positive crimp on the face, the do some classy footwork to match holds on the sloper at the top of the face. From here, but a big move to good holds to top out.

Sit start the arete and proceed through some hard crimping. Get ready to be greeted by an interesting lip move and challenging mantle. Please do not brush off the tongue orchids. Fun Problem.

Start start on the right side of the boulder and get extreme directly up the arète following a cool RH crack.

Super balancy slab.

Sit/Stand start on good jugs or edges on R arete of boulder. Up and L to low face crimp then up to sidepull flake and mantle. Footwork essential.

Start inside of small cave on a massive ledge, work outwards and into the crack. Head to the start of the cave and finish upwards.

Be careful of spiders and other deadly creatures dwelling in the hole!

Start with right palm of right wall with left crimp. Use both walls, left wall used for feet and finish top on left wall. V4 for small people

Stand start using small edges on a very bad footer, slap the slopers and mantle.

Sit start using good holds, big move to the good hold at the top. Stand or jump start to the good top hold for a V0

Sit start as for The Downfallen. Climb straight up until reaching a line of crimps below the lip. From here, make a technical traverse left to top out as for And Better.

Stand-start using good edges and big foot above the left hand side of the small cave. Trend up and a little right.

Stand-start on right hand side of slab using obvious foot, straight-up.

Stand-start on small iron-stone edges and ok feet, straight up.

Start as per Hockey Stick. As you round the corner, stay low instead. Move left to small feature pinch with a low shouldery crossover crux to good hold at low on crack (rock on ground is out for feet). Move diagonally up (left of crack) using small left sidepulls and right slopers to finish.

Start low on the obvious shelf. Left hand to a rough pocket and continue up and slightly left.

Start with both hands on the under cling, go straight over the lip to jugs using precise foot placements through a tricky middle, ending with a juggy top out.

Sit start with low RH sidepull jug and big LH sidepull. Straight up over the small prow.

Sit start on the boulder to the right of the warmup boulder with the V5s. Start compressing between a left and right jug and straight up via a powerful throw. - EDIT: Suspect a crucial starting hold for this has broken off making it MUCH harder if still possible at all!

Sit start down and left of standard praise the cobble start. Left hand on good sidepull. Right hand originally very gently nearby on slightly loose flake (Now broken. Use nearby cobbles instead) Up and right to standard praise the cobble start and top it out as normal.

Feet on shelf at ground level. Left hand on hold just above head. Move up and slightly right. Maybe should only be V2.

Starts 0.5m to right of starter. Both hands undercling obvious chest height ledge. Left foot on foot hold used in Starter. Right foot smear. Straight up without using any part of the main Starter edge (you may undercling it if you want) (you maybe also use the slopey crimps immediately at the right hand end of the ledge)

Sit start diagonal edge (right hand) and sidepull (left hand) at right hand end of face. Traverse the face heading left (the lip and above are out). Top out a slow escape. Note - this may actually be the original start to headsloposion. Needs someone to confirm.

Start right hand on the larger of the two rails below the roof. Left hand on the smaller sloped rail. Work your way out of the roof and top out as per Hell.

As Mera Mera but extend along the lip to the right following the overhanging line to it's zenith before topping out

Start the same as Jesse's Direct Finish, but when the rail ends, continue right to the prow, then top out.

Start on big low jug, then up and right to top out above and right of the faint crack line.

Sit start hands in sharp slopey pockets on second bulge (not the bulge that forms the lip, the one below). Throw to lip and an interesting mantle. Try not to dab on throw. Graded V3 but compared to the grading on one other sit starts on this boulder it might as well be a VB.

Sit start with right hand gaston on what would be the left for the standard yakini sit. Left hand far left to great square left hand. Up from here. Sit on floor, not on pad for full effect.

This problem is located on the low boulder just to the left and slightly uphill of #8. Sit start on the layback flake feature. Ascend on perfect edges. Diminutive, but what it's got is good.

Climbs the blunt arete directly above the cave. The most striking line on the boulder, with the best rock quality and tallest profile.

Sit start with left hand on good hold, right hand on the crimp at the same height. Up via another RH crimp and some sidepulls until you reach the break (easy topout).

Iain Hunter

Start on pockets with a high left toe, bump left hand to a positive sloper and move right into the flake. Get on it before the flake ekes out its last creak!

Starts on the high right side pull where the seam opens up. Move LH to a small crimp rail over the top, find something to stand on and try not to grate any skin off your knees as you top out.

As from 'Nom Nom Nom' but then head right to a cool pinch and up.

Up side pulls and slopers avoiding the rail, a more direct version of 'Finessive Aggressive'.

Sit start out of the bum hole then as for Mouth. A magnificently worthwhile addition to a proud line.

Start on Arete and traverse left using the pocket and small crimp left of the pocket. Keep low and top out as per rail finish.

Start with hands on either side of large bulge, get feet set for a throw to L rail and then easy top out

Sit start. Right hand low on good crimp. Left hand relatively high on small pinch. A strong pull up to get off the ground then find your way to the top.

Low start on arete, Big throw to a Slopey jug at the lip or some fiddly moves on crap holds and then up to same, then up and mantle on slopers.

Sit Start in the middle of the boulder with left hand on a full hand pinch and right on a small pocket, push up and latch to the next pocket above followed by an array of nice pockets to choose on your way to the top.

SS left of crack on slopers and smaller holds without using crack

Standing start straight up on crappy slopers for interesting mantle. Sit start at V4.

Both hands on chest high undercling. Left hand as gaston. Right hand as undercling. Left foot on low jug. Right foot flagging. Straight up.

Stay low off undercling, with long reach to good sidepull, then balancy traverse moves through more slopers.

Up slopers then veer right around ferns.

Start low L on sharp pinch and R on deep side pull. Up on slopers and then traverse L to some good small pockets and top out.

Stand start with high foot on the only good pebble. Balancy moves to a high mono.

Sit start low right with 2 jugs, traverse left on rail, throw to high sloper and mantle out.

Start with both hands on the ledge under the moveable chockstone (which is now gone?), then straight up left onto the next ledge to match. A thin traverse follows along the obvious horizontal crack until you reach the ledge far left on the boulder face. From there straight up to the top.

Start on diagonal rail and throw to left hold and mantle out.

Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip.

Start bunched in low break. Out to lip and throw right for decent hold.

Start as for HRIL, moving the RH up to the lip and then the LH to the (now broken) high side pull. Continue straight up for a more pleasant final top out than HRIL, using only small face holds to the right of the Nun's crack.

Sit start near large starting jugs, near crack. Throw to ledge to the R. Set up for layback up high to the small L hold. Moving up slightly to the R for top out.

Sit start next to large sidepulls, using crimps and crappy small slopers to good hold at crack.

Sitstart as low as you desire under blunt arete, up and L to awesome rail, top out.

Crouch start 2m left of Chopsticks matched on left-most hold at the lip. Punch up right for slopey crimps and massive sidepull, then mantle. Traverse right and topout to the right of the fern.

Starting with the right hand high on the good sidepull, left hand low at the bottom lip of the boulder stand up, use your feet and gain the good holds at the top lip.

Start with the L foot either left of the tree on a good foot hold or for the shorter climber right of the tree on the low poor lip. Left hand on the high good ridge and right hand low on the large hold at the base of the boulder's lip RHS. Find your balance points and up you go.

Start R of Sharp and Eats Skin on good R hold and up to nice diagonal sidepull near prominent hold and finish off the same as Sharp and Eats Skin.

More pain

Start above creekbed around arete to L of 'Cobble Face' on the rail with feet on the small boulder underneath. Throw up to hold high to the R and then L to large flake (glued). Straight up and over the top there is a good L finger hold and R edge

Start on large cobble sidepull, up a short way to good L crimp and good R hand rail. There is an undercling for the L hand and reach up with R hand to ledge, then go for roof and top out.

Up roof

Bumstart up to small hold near thin crack and moving up and to the left

Same but go right at the mantle

Jug up to the ledge and holds below undercling and mantle out using hold to left.

Start with hands in the break. A nice undercling and high feet will allow you to reach past the blank looking rock. Trend left via rail and use the good sidepull to mantle.

Elimination traverse route. Start low at Jacked and move right to good L undercling at ceiling base. Route trends under ceiling to reach hold directly above painted 9. Finally, stay on overhang to Climb 10 arête top-out. L shelf ledges used in the traverse routes are out to keep low feet/hands as V3; R boulder out like Climb 10.

Start in cave below the painted 9 and move up to R without using large boulder to the R. Straight up arête above painted O.

Start at "Right", with right hand on the mini jug in the small overhang, and left hand on the crimp up and to the left, left leg flagging. Several moves up slopers, then a tricky traverse all the way across to the tree to the left of "Left" and top out. Keep below the top until the finish for legit V3.

Amazingly cut route which starts deep within the cave and follows a perfect looking crack which eventually sucks you out and tops out nicely. Same route could be done with a two hand crack start for a V5.

Two finger hold up high for R and small L sidepull at start. Throw high to L and then large hold, easy top out.

# Important to have long R arm for sit start.

Start matched on the sloping jug. Slap some gator cheeks and mantle directly. Chockstones are out.

Sit start matched on the low blob, follow arete

Smaller overhang below the witness boulder. Start low on crimps, blast up and left to a vicious mantle.