Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 | ★★ Troposphere
1
15
30m
2
17
15m
3
18
15m
4
15
20m
5
16
30m
Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope. Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from. | 110m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl
Start at big "PT" mark. Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing. Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now. FA: Ted Cais & David Reeve, 1969 FFA: Mick Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1985 | 17m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
21 | ★★ Idiot Wind
Start at the "IW' mark. Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing. Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts. This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow) FFA: Gordon Bieske & Paul Hoskins, 1984 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
18 | ★★ Gladiator
An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here. Straight up to DRBB. FA: Chris Peisker, 1975 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | ★ Dysentery
Start at "D" mark. Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'. FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984 | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★★ Halva
Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H". Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB. FFA: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1992 | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
24 | ★ Crazy Horny
Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 24. Back jump to clean, lower from second bolt. FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2000 | 10m, 4 | Mt Coolum | ||
24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor?
Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted. FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007 | 12m, 7 | Mt Coolum | ||
23 | ★★★ Squealer
An awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to a lower-off. Stick clipping advised if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Squealer traversed in from Howler). Start: From the first raised platform. FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 21m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
22 | ★★ Slider
Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air. Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards). FA: Gareth Llewellin & Adam Donoghue, 2008 | 16m, 7 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution
A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. DRBB. FA: Ross Allan & Rick White, 1970 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat
Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt. FFA: Simon Moses, 1998 | 8m, 5 | Mt Coolum | ||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity
The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change! FA: Chris Coghill, 1997 FFA: Simon Moses, 1998 | 15m, 9 | Mt Coolum | ||
18 | ★ TOS
Short and fun - a popular warm-up. Most find this a pumpy little 18. FFA: Glenn, 2010 | 12m, 8 | Pages Pinnacle | ||
17 | ★ Bombadil
Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B". A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB. FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole & Mark Poole, 2002 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row
Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR". Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16. FFA: David Reeve, 1968 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear
Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF". A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'. FA: John Pickard, 1968 FFA: Roger Bourne, 1984 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
20 | ★★ Dreamcatcher
Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing. FA: Grama Page / Adam Dodson, 2007 | 15m | Brooyar | ||
24 | ★★★ Howler
Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five bolts with a late crux to a lower off. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighted down, in slow motion, and with bare feet... Seriously. Start: Just R of 'Madder' FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999 | 16m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
20 | ★ Pommy Bastard
Start at the "PB" mark. Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs. First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there. FA: Michael Woodrow & visiting female climber... | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts
Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB". Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead. Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors. FFA: Gordon Bieske & Rob Whannell, 1985 | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity
This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up. FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007 | 20m, 12 | Mt Coolum | ||
23 | ★★ Cucumber Castle
Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC". Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB. FA: Rob Staszewski, 1970 FFA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1984 | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
14 | ★ Electric Lead
A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun). FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron | 26m | Frog Buttress | ||
24 | Chipped ★★ Chip A Holloway
Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH. Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'. The route got its name when the pockets on the steep wall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets. Described in the guidebook as a tough 22 10 years ago... this was before the crux hold broke off. FFA: Andrew Horchner & Steven McMillan, 1998 | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
19 | ★★★ Infinity
A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb. FA: Ross Allen & Rick White., 1970 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | ★★ The Enticer
Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade. FA: Gordon Baudino & Colin Carstens, 2008 | 14m, 5 | Brooyar | ||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo
Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'. Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt. FA: ross ferguson | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
19 | ★★ Gnarley
Some people find it that way! 3m R. FH's. FFA: Peter Monks & ross ferguson, 2010 | 18m, 10 | Pages Pinnacle | ||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP
One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap down RURP from the DBB on the wall at the back of the ledge, not in behind the pillar as for Micron, which is notorious for stuck ropes. FA: Rick White & Barry Overs, 1971 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
12 | ★ Date Anatomy
Start at the "DA" mark. Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB. FA: Marcus O'Mara, 1994 FFA: Kevin Coleman, ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 16m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
22 | ★★ Strip Clubs
Slab with some nice pockets (don't you wish this went on for 50m?), then sustained headwall which should make your arms feel warm. FFA: Glenn & Tim Rowe, 2012 | 18m, 12 | Pages Pinnacle | ||
17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch
Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'. Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing. FFA: Dave Whitworth & Michael Long, 2000 | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
20 | ★★ Move Over Brussel Sprout
Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'. Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB. FA: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1994 | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
22 | ★★★ The Great Devoid
Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely Africa shaped plate. Up and over the lip trending L and up to recently installed rap station/lower-off. Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt. FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993 | 15m, 4 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy.
Start 5m R of 'MOBS'. A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB. | 15m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
15 | ★ Such A Nice Monster
Start: A further 10m up the gully. Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM. FA: Gareth Llewellin, M Smith & ross ferguson, 2004 | 15m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ Shit Heap
Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing. TR access can be gained by scrambling up from the left. FA: Ian Cameron & Rick White | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★ Standing Room Only
Start at "SRO" mark. Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB. FA: David Whitworth & Michael Long, 1994 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
24 | ★★ Brisbane Bitter
Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB". Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish. Very cruxy. FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
25 | ★★★ Madder
Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade. Start: Just R of 'Squealer' FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 15m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
15 | ★★ Devil's Wart
Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you don't need to use any of it. FA: Ross Allen & Ian Cameron, 1970 | 27m | Frog Buttress | ||
26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder
Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade. FA: Matt Eaton, 2007 | 10m, 5 | Mt Coolum | ||
15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible
A classic test piece at the grade. Start up face from the ground, or step in from the L at 2m (not as good). It is a little tricky to protect in the first 4m, but look around and salvation will come to hand! From here, climb the superb thin hands-to-fist/off-width crack all the way to the ledge. Rap chains can be found here. Cams to a #4 C4 are essential if you don't like run outs! FA: Rick White, 1972 | 24m | Frog Buttress | ||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice
The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars. FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007 | 15m, 9 | Mt Coolum | ||
16 | ★ Anonymous DS
Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'. Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB. | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
15 | ★ My Brothers Keeper
Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade. FFA: Graham Page, Charlie Lewis, Clint Westbrook & Mclovin, 2008 | 10m, 5 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts
Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'. Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'. FA: ross ferguson, Gareth Llewellin & Kevin Coleman, 2005 | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
27 | ★★★ Spoonman
Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade. FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007 | 20m, 11 | Mt Coolum | ||
13 | ★★ Clockwork Orange Corner
Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear (if you have a number of fist-sized cams) with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to DBB as you top out of the corner. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1
Start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1969 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★★ Beyond the Black Stump
Heel hook start, quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains. FA: G Page & A Dodson., 2006 | 15m | Brooyar | ||
21 | ★ Pink Berets
Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'. Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station. FA: Lee Cujes & Samantha Coles, 2003 | 15m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
15 | ★ Bad Company
A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner. Rappel down from DBB directly above the route. FA: Nic Taylor & John Hattink, 1977 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | ★★★ Smoked Banana
Classic Frog climbing. Up the initial twin cracks with some difficulty to a ledge. Step L and up the single crack to a stance under a daunting roof. Sling the chock stone on the R in the wide crack, swallow hard and swing out and up the ladder of chock stones with bowel-quivering exposure! Rest your nerves in the body crack for a moment, travel into the depths of the crack, then squeeze up for a move or two until it is possible to step out onto the arete and face. Easily to the top. FA: Rick White & Greg Sheard, 1968 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★ Micron
The best 16 at the crag. Start up the chimney with technical bridging to a rest on the top of the semi-detached pillar. Step onto the R face and follow the line up to the top. Awesome climbing, bombproof gear and brilliant moves! Rap down DBB above Elastic RURP to avoid getting ropes stuck. FA: Unknown, 1972 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
12 | ★ JAFKPR
Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'. Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains. FFA: Steve Kloske & Paul Pagoldh, 2013 | 13m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
22 | ★★ Beach Bum
More bouldery than Strip Clubs. Start just right and up the slab (like all routes in this sector). Daunting black overhang then headwall. Where's that finishing jug...? FFA: ross ferguson & Peter O'Halloran, 2011 | 18m, 11 | Pages Pinnacle | ||
16 | ★★ Sun Chaser
Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB. FA: Graham Page & A Dodson, 2006 | 15m, 4 | Brooyar | ||
25 | ★★★ Nitroglycerin
Already a classic. FA: Jerome, 1992 FFA: Jerome, 2011 | 15m, 6 | Mt Ninderry | ||
18 | ★★ Annabelistic
In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to double U-bolt belay. FA: Lara Masselos, 2008 | 16m, 7 | Brooyar | ||
21 | ★★★ Dontworry.com
Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed. Top bolt very loose on anchors. Hand tighten and put your draws next to the bottom bolt until someone can come with a spanner (loctite or lock washer please). FFA: Jerome, 2011 | 25m, 10 | Mt Ninderry | ||
16 | ★ Snake Charmer
Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to double U-bolt belay. FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 | 15m, 7 | Brooyar | ||
22 | ★★ Aphelion
1
16
35m
2
21
12m
3
22
30m
4
22
10m
Great climbing in a superb position. Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall.
Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope. FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004 | 87m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D
Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD". Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB. FFA: Rick White, 1969 | 17m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin
Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top. FA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 | ★★ The Most Monstrous Monster
... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower. FA: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 13m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band
Great climbing up the pillar bisected by an ever widening crack. The crux is near the top, coming out of a cave into a fist jam section. Easily up and L to Plume Ledge. FA: Rick White & Rod Bolton., 1969 | 17m | Frog Buttress | ||
13 | ★ Electric Mud
Up the easy corner with good gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy! FA: Ian Cameron, Chris Knudsen; Ian Cameron & Chris Knudson | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★★ Gobble
Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G". Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'. FA: Paul Hoskins, 1983 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner
A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Take a few 3-4 camalots. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC. FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969 | 25m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees
Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB. FA: Gareth Llewellin, Kevin Coleman & ross ferguson, 2005 | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
19 | ★★ Dysentery RHF
Start as for 'Dysentery'[12213427], marked "D". At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery'[12213427] veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB. FA: Rob Whannell, 1985 | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
19 | ★ Something About Sandy
Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'. Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 13m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
18 | ★★★ Plume
From the right side of 'Plume Ledge' (facing the cliff) Climb the obvious hand crack infront of a forked tree (belay). Great jamming up to a diagonal traverse right to a jug, then up the thinning crack trending slightly left on face holds to top mantle. FA: Fred From, 1976 | 25m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 R | ★★ Kiwi
Start at the "K" mark. Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing. FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1992 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
24 | ★★ Punks in the Gin
Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG". Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. FFA: Mick Woodrow & Paul Lawrence, 1985 | 17m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
17 | ★ Three Stroke Scree Slope
“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds. FFA: Jerome, 2011 | 15m, 6 | Mt Ninderry | ||
25 | ★★★ Little Wednesday
Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off. Find a gullible seconder to clean. FA: Graham Page & Colin Carstens, 2008 | 8m, 6 | Brooyar | ||
15 | ★ Miss Kandy Kane
The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off. FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999 | 20m, 5 | Brooyar | ||
21 | ★★ Prickles
Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang. Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing. FA: Unknown, 2003 | 18m, 7 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★★★ Satan's Smokestack
The start is easier if you are tall. Climb boldly up the front of the wide crack to avoid the thrutch. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows., 1968 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
25 | ★★ Wailer
The right most line on the wall before the corner. Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2004 | 18m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
19 | ★ Worm Hole
Start 5m L of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "WH". A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt. A hold may have come off since the original grading of 18? Regardless, holds are there and just need to be found. Goes well once you know the sequence. Rebolted 2014. FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 17m, 5 | Mt Ngungun | ||
17 | ★★ Zeitgeist
1
17
2
13
3
15
Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.
From final DBB it's easy to scramble a few metres right into Cave 3: ★★ Zeitgeist 17 - Top of Zeitgeist scramble into Cave 3 then up over the scree shoulder & down, into the very large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Scramble down through Cave 1 out right, to the DBB. Descent from here, via the 'Caves Route' consists of 3 raps = will get you down on a single 60m. Descent back down Zeitgeist on a single 60m rope: 4 raps will get you to the bottom slab and then a scramble down to the ground: rap down to the first DBB, 5m above the 2nd belay, mid pitch 3. ★★ Zeitgeist 17 - First rap station from the top; pitch 3 From here, rap to the next DBB, mid pitch 2 - about 15m above the first belay station on the big ledge. ★★ Zeitgeist 17 - 2nd rap station = 15m above first belay on big ledge Then a 15m rap to the big ledge, and pitch one belay. From here, a full 30m rap will get you to the top of the slab, with some careful down scrambling to the ground. NOTE: IT'S STILL 4 RAPS USING A SINGLE 70M! FA: David, Ruth Reeve & a host of helpers, 2010 | 110m, 3 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
15 | ★★ Coco Pops
Start 2m R of 'MD'. Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor. | 30m, 7 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★★ Electronic Flag
A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. Decent gear all the way but if you're belaying be aware that there are several ledges that the leader could hit. There are three choices of start to this route: the rightmost is the Direct Start (19) which takes the clean layback corner into the line. The middle start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17. The original route (14) starts 4m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section. Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down, or 1 x 70m will suffice). FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur
Start at the faint "SI" mark. Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
15 | ★ Tiger Stripe
Start at "TS" mark. Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB. FA: Bernie Corfield & John Jones, 1980 FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Coles & Chris Gibson, 2004 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ The Horse
Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'. Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB. FA: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 12m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
15 | ★ Iron Butterfly
A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route. FA: Rick White & Ron Collett | 28m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★ Frontier Psychiatrist
Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'. Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain. The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
30 | ★★★ Evil Wears No Pants
The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia. Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'! FA: Adam Donoghue, 2008 FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008 | 20m, 11 | Mt Coolum | ||
16 | ★ Moonlight Dilemma
Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD". Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'. FA Unknown, original line unknown Set: David Reeve & Ruth Reeve, 2013 | 15m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
17 | ★ Blowing Bubbles
Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM). Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête. FA: Scott Lawrence & Gary Meyrick, 1999 | 15m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
19 | ★★ Surrender
Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'. Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB. FA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1984 | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
4 | ★★★ Caves Route
Queensland's own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). Rap stations are present on five of the 8 pitches (Aug. 2019). Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for these 5 pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. Start: 20m R (down the slope) of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked "CR". ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1
*Note: There is also another Caves Route variant that avoids the chimney section which starts right at the base of the chimney by taking a short contour to the right hand side until a large cave is found. Go to the end of the cave and scramble up for about 25 m until the top of the NE face is reached. This second variant is slightly easier than the one described above. FA: Bert Salmon & Allan Clelland, 1926 | 520m, 8 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
19 | ★★ Dawn Raid
Best route on the pillar - sustained. Start 2m to the R of & 2m down from 'Afternoon Delight'. Stickclip high first bolt from ledge on the left but start the climb down right. 3 shiny new RBs to lower-offs. Retrobolted (with permission) 2015. Take care clipping the 2nd bolt, as there has been at least one ground fall. FA: Neil Monteith & Marten Blumen, 1994 | 9m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
19 | ★★ Footprints on the Other Side
Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds. FA: Graham Page & Colin Carstens, 2008 | 18m, 6 | Brooyar |