Routes in Australia for selected grade

“Despite Neil being here first, in the absence of an organised governing body, I hereby declare this ‘crag belonging to no one’… therefore it is mine.”

The face just right of the far left arete. A long technical slab, with some dubious rock. Finish at lower anchors in the middle of the big roof. 12 bolts. If continuing up the extension, extend the 1st, 3rd, 4th, 9th and 10th bolts and skip the anchor.

Harder than it looks! Small wires and smaller holds.

The tough thin crack just right of Squeakeasy leads into Quisling.

Guaranteed deck between 2nd and 3rd can be protected with medium size cams (green/purple)

The right side of the left arete. A little bit of choss to get started through bulge then really sweet climbing all the way to the top.

Start at mantle just right of 'Love Jugs'. Traverse all the way to the Low Eliminate Wall and keep going until passed the finish of 'The Gape' (which is a climb at the Low Eliminate Wall)

Flakes 5m R of IHOP, Right end of cave. Stickclip first bolt. Finishes on black fin at end of IHOP, backjump to clean

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

Next one right.

Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose.

Thin for a move. Rebolted 2004.

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

in the middle of wall you rap down 5 mtrs right of over the yard arm slab, thru roof (crux) rest in middle of easier climbing on cams and bolts to a tough finish

Start 2m L of 'Red Dwarf'.

Climb past 3 FHs then R to the DBB shared with 'Red Dwarf'. Really nice moves in the first half.

Superb overhanging corner to the right of arete. One of the best at Hillwood.

Start as for Suncorp, go into left jug start of St George and finish up and left on face. Bit sandy on the left arete.

To the right of Good Friday is a thin slabby seam (crux) leading to steep jug hauling up high. Some loose rock around the rooflet, but a great long route to the top of the crag.

A most satisfying starting move!

Sit start just left of "BCIS" with a heel hook and hands on the delicate ledge line.

Pull on and throw for the angled pinch on the cave lip left from you. Make for the lip with the right, match and topout straight up.

A super satisfying problem

10BR to anchors (+1 optional belay bolt on ledge). Moderate ledge-y stuff on P1 then sweeeet clean face above. Belay on ledge a good idea (grade 18, 5BR to there) but reasonable as a single pitch with a few long runners in the first half and an attentive belay. From the ledge, get your crimp action on. A thin bouldery section is followed by excellent edging up an immaculate steep wall to anchors.

Start as for 'Kiosks' The most sustained of all 'Kiosks' variants. After crux at start, continue straight up through line of 3 RBs to Double RB lower off.

A balancy and technical arete on the right edge of this wall. Quite sustained and a little sandy.

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

The left arête of the west-most face. 3 carrot bolts, one fixed hanger and a couple of sling placements.

Grade varies greatly dependant on height, grade 21 if over 6', much harder if shorter.

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

As per Contempt, but topout for Tally Ho.

A quality climb slapping up the arete from a sitstart.

…but not forgotten. Several years earlier, Monteith placed a BR off to the R of this route but discarded it. It took the persistence (and jiggery-pokery!) of Box to get the line bolted and sent.

Start 50m or so R along the cliff from the 'Acid' area at some blocky orange roofs.

Five RBs lead up the overhanging orange rock. The climbing is quite bizarre. A rap station is located on the big ledge above and to the R of the last overhang.

Pumpy traverse, start on block and finish up blunt arete

Excellent thin face climbing with a very hard start.

Starts high at the end of The Downclimb Slab. Drop down to the middle of the wall near problem 4 - feet on the obvious horizontal break. At the left hand end pop onto the shelf and scramble onto Abseil Wall without touching the ground or using the tree.

Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity.

About 50m further R of the descent gully amphitheatre is a bolted line up a neat face beside a large eucalypt. Follows a beautiful natural line of features up the centre of the face with some superb, sustained face climbing. An intense, crimpy start, then some nice moves on big holds leads to the crux between the 7th and 8th bolt. A powerful move to gain the stance below the hanging flake, then some funky layaways and heelhooking on the flake leads to a good rest. Easy up the face until a sting in the tail just below the anchors on some rounded laybacks with little for the feet. A classic.

Stand Start The left arete

2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab. (rebolted 2018)

Solid for 22. Start at the left-hand side of the wall, heading directly upwards past 3 U's before delicately traversing right and upwards past another 3 U's to DBB lower-off.

1. 12m (19) First pitch is described as not great and is quite vegetated at time of writing.

2. 30m (23) Second pitch is good (all rings now), and may be combined with the other 3 upper pitches previously described; in which case, traverse in right from the belay of TSL (a bolt would be handy, or swing across on your rap rope) and belay on the ledge below the climb (currently off an ancient FH, and the RB above it). Tree belay on top (same top-out as Much of a Muchness).

1. 25m (22) Hard start on tiny incuts.

2. 25m (20) Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings. You can JUST make it back to the ground with a doubled 80m rope. Hurray!

This short steep, left-leaning, black-streaked corner system closely resembles Walk On. Make sure you are on the correct route!

Originally climbed using two protection pegs which disappeared decades ago. A bolt added in lieu of the old pegs was chopped, presumably because of the possibility of a lower cam placement behind a dubious block. That block has fallen out (the climbing is now a grade harder than when the route was established) and the bolt has been replaced (to avoid a ground-fall that a fall from the crux would otherwise entail).

Start on same jug as North Arete and move up into first pinch and dish move. Head left into obvious pockets and go straight up. Avoid anything right of the crack.

Up through pumpy overhang to a funky pocket move, and straight up seam to anchors.Short but great.

Four metres right of Alex In Wonderland head up to a bolt via a hollow sounding flake and then on to a small ledge on the right. Left and up past two more bolts. SLCD belay. Rap as for Alex In Wonderland.

Starting left of Nude Nothings, this route has good climbing most of the way followed by a definite crux where all good holds have been ripped away to leave only a difficult move, one hard & crimpy crux. A steep finish to anchors shared with Nude Nothings.

Sit start as per Ear using undercling's in mouth to traverse across face and topping out on Lobe (keep feet out of Mouth and Bum Hole)

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

Thin face climbing past a bolt leads to the superb hanging flake.

A terrific free climb with one single bit of aid doing a crack transfer to start the second pitch. Pitch lengths are approximate. Havin a few #1 camalots makes the route much more pleasant (HB suggests taking 6!).

Abseil access: To the right of bents lookout (looking out) there is a gumtree between you and the next lookout, sling this and fix a 70m rope there then slab across under bents lookout (climbers right) to three shiny ringbolts on the other side of the slab. Clove hitch the rope to one (or more) of these bolts so your partner can come across on a fixed line then rap down the redirected single line from the bolts. You'll get to the bolted (carrots) hanging belay at the end of pitch one. Leave the fixed line and rap from these bolts with your climbing rope to the start of pitch one leaving the anchor in place. Once you finish the climb, you can use the fixed line to get back across the slab to the gumtree.

1. ~40m (22, crux) Up the right facing, thin hands corner. This eases from vertical to slab as the corner arcs to the right and the crack thins. Hanging belay on two vintage carrot bolts.

2. ~30m (19) Lower from the belay and swing over to transfer to the mega-flake to your right. Climb this on perfect hands jams while ignoring the sound that it makes every time you slide a cam in. Continue through a couple of seams to a small stance near a tree.

3. ~20m (20) Up the crack to where it peters. Slab left past an antique bolt and hanger and into the next crack system. Belay approximately on the slab to the left before the crack goes vertical.

4. ~30m (21) The vertical crack. A burly move or two and then head hard left back to your clove hitched rap rope and eventually your starting gum tree. There is probably some other ways to finish this pitch directly up to the lookout but the convenience of cleaning up the rap rope on the way outweighed the value of a few more meters of vertical climbing for us.

Start as for WtBF, vere leftwards at 2nd bolt to nice flake and follow the awesome pockets.

1m left of decent route

Update: As of June 2017 the "magic block" is gone! Grade and description are awaiting an update. Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

An excellent and absorbing climb. This climb relies more on balance and technique than power, and is essentially one big balance problem. The gear is thin and spaced.

Climb the wall and crack.

Start on the obvious chalked jug head left and up on small crimps to top out.

Cute boulder problem to start. Wall 4m R of where the track hits the cliff.

3m right of Scheme of Things. Hard yarding on poor holds.

Sit start at the rail, big mantle up to the sloper. Then move up to finish with a big move to the hueco. The corner is often full of cobwebs but this is well worth quickly brushing them away.

Another steep start. Enjoyable moves the whole way, finishing on the fairly obvious overhung prow.

Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

Start slighty left of the original on two small edge side pulls and head directly up on small holds to ledge at mid point. Finish up original line. First bolt cannot be reached so it's a high-ball to the second bolt.

Left of 'Locomotion'. Streno start, thin moves to big flake. Maybe just a touch harder then TBTB.

Start as Babylon but head left below small overlap to climb the underside of 'the hull'. From arete jug harder moves left gain the crack in the back of the corner then punch up to finish at monster jug. Slab on left out (obviously).

Rattly finger / thin hand crack splitting the face, quite unique and sustained for the mountains. Sling a tree to rap/lower off and retrieve easily on way back up track.

Start 26m left of TJ. Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Sit start.

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt.

Varied and interesting. Start 4m R of Huey. The start has some long reaches protected by adequate gear in horizontals, then up the bottomless V-corner.

Sit start out of the bum hole then as for Mouth. A magnificently worthwhile addition to a proud line.

Face and blunt arete just L of crack. Joins COYS in cave.

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

Straight up the middle of the block, start just left of the yellow streak. Optional sit start adds 2 moves.

Meanders up face left 2m of major corner (Hail Mary) and punches through steep jugs to finish.

Look up what do you see? Look down, you're still on the ground. What's holding you there? Look up you see bolts leading up the best arete you have ever seen (at least at Nowra), its easy there are holds everywhere. Look down your feet are still holding you back.

Start: Just left of the arete of 'Fractured' Fairytales

Start just left of 'Hidden Gem'. Up the vertical wall with big moves to big holds. Victory jug is just AFTER the anchors.

Shared start with Vertical Smile then left to the arete then up the gorgeous orange wall trending right to shared anchor. 3rd bolt is a hard clip.

Start up Eastern Bloc Arete, finish up Mission Impossible.

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

Very good and very strenuous.

Great moves up slopers on arete. Probably easier than V3 though.

SDS with obvious jug (RH) and crimp (LH). Slap up and right to good holds around the arete.

Consensus suggests this is more like V3 so upgraded from the original V1.

Addendum (2024): Left hand crimp broke sometime 2022/23 and has become much better. Probably easier than before but still V3.

Two finger hold up high for R and small L sidepull at start. Throw high to L and then large hold, easy top out.

# Important to have long R arm for sit start.

Find shallow mono above head height 1m R of "Sherman Tank". Up using this with R hand. Sherman Tank is off.

Start compressed between the arete and right sloper, then up and over the top.

Outstanding and varied line. The magnificent orange face 3-5m to the right of Koalasquatsy. Start up Koalasquatsy for 5m and then lurch rightwards on slopers to a RB. Up the face above (RB) then over tricky roof to gain hanging right facing flake. Up this to DRB lower-off in small cave. The route used to top-out up the major choss before SCV installed the anchors.

Blocky vague prow kind of feature up the centre of the wall.

Jump up on flake/slab to start and clip first RB and crux. Step left at second RB and continue straight up left of seam past 2 RB's and a Double RB Lower off

Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish.

The most sustained route at the crag. Starts just right of large grass-tree growing against the cliff base, in the middle of the cliff. Fantastic orange rock with a tough move at the fourth bolt. Hands on top of the cliff for the full tick.

1st problem in the cave.

Subtle arete on crimps to stance, then up bulgy wall to anchors under big roof. Starts behind small tree, with a ringbolt to begin, then FHs above. This route is waterproof due to the large roof above.

Sit start on obvious jugs just right of small corner. Up left to gain corner and layaway/gaston to top (which needs a sweep).

Slab right behind Ali Baba. Stand start off crimp rail, head straight up.

Classic little warm up, harder now a hold has broken.

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perrys! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

Through the brutal overhang on a variety of holds then fight through the difficult bulge to the top