Routes in Tasmania

Crack to R of Uncle.

The dirty looking corner is cleaner and better than it looks.

left of descent scramble

An entertaining scramble up the south ridge with a few slab moves and patches of giant rusty carrots from some ancient via ferrata.

Descent: Down climb the route? Abseil off the cairn? Call a chopper?

From Barron Pass scramble up through scrub to a steep wall with an overhang above it. Continue R of this through a gap and climb short wall on L to gain ridge. Straight up ridge for three rope lengths leads to a knife-edge ridge and summit of White Needle. Alternatively, keeping L of the ridge from Barron Pass, there is a scrub clutching scramble to the top.

The cairned bushwalkers route up Federation Peak.

The deep and dark chimney on your right just before the rock-hop to the main crag. Climb the chimney and exit via the hole in the top between the huge boulder. Can be easily protected if you want to rope up.

The right or eastern face and arete of the boulder is a good warm up.

This is actually the slab boulder to right. Super easy but actually quite nice rock and movement.

On the far right end.

Up the right side and traverse the lip.

On the right end.

On the Lyell side of the boulder there is two obvious rising traverses, this one is done with hands in the upper break and feet in the lower, toping out at the end of the break.

Short arete on downhill side. Average.

Up the arete and all the way along, quite a good warm up.

Start at the base of Dunson and head up the left side of the boulder.

The right hand line of the boulder.

Up the right feature.

Up the left end slab/feature.

Starting just left of the arete for an easy rising traverse to the highest point.

These problems are on the beach side of OTG. Follow the flake up to the top.

Great beginner climb. Use flake to follow curve up, topping out

Stand start the diagonal crack

Hang start the right arête.

Sit start the left arête.

Stand start to the slab.

Stand start. Climb the slab on the far left.

Low traverse of the slab between '133bpm Left' and 'The Heart Beat' in either direction.

Climb the slabby face, very easy yet fun, great boulder problem for kids

Climb the broken pinnacle from a stand start. All sides are as easy as each other.

Access via tolkien track until you reach Gandalf’s staff then head 20m uphill until you reach another giant tree where the splinter crack is located. Jam your way into the canopy until crack fuses, then down climb cleaning all the bomber gear you just placed. Size 4 cam recommended.

A classic ridge traverse.

Park at the Dove Lake carpark (arrive early to avoid shuttle bus). Walk the West side of Dove Lake and take the Lake Wilks Track up to the Face Track. Approximately 200m North (Left) on the Face Track a definite (cairned) pad heads uphill (1.5 hours). Alternatively, walk on the east side of the lake and take the track up to Hanson Peak (a left hand turn just near Glacier Rock). Follow this along the ridge line, summitting Hansons peak and linking into the Face Track, all the way until the cairned path that leads off to the left up to the summit of Little Horn. If you take this approach and come to the sign for the Lake Wilks track you have come too far.

Follow steep path to summit of Little Horn, then begin scramble down towards saddle. 1-2 short (<10m) abseils may be advisable depending on conditions. Walk/Scramble across saddle to base of Weindorfer's Tower and a vegetated ledge.

From here, a narrow pad may be visible on the right (West) side leading to exposed scrambling; consider roping up. The route takes the line of resistance over rocks and vegetation, approximately following the line of the ridge.

After the summit of Weindorfer's Tower there is a 23m abseil from a large boulder; tat may be in place. The start of this abseil can be safely scrambled down in good conditions taking you to a Horn that can be slung for an approx. 10m abseil. The route then continues as before, though generally easier and on the left (East) side of the ridge, with one very exposed rocky traverse on the right (West) side.

The route eases as approaching Smithies Peak, then descends slightly to main summit path which is followed to Cradle Mountain summit. Return via summit walking track.

Gear: 50m rope, abseil tat, 10-12 slings, large nuts/hexes. Helmets recommended, climbing shoes unnecessary.

Time: 9-10 hours car to car.

If the weather turns, there are a couple of points where you can bail out fairly easily. This is after descending Little Horn (there is actually a path leading from the saddle to face track) and after abseiling off Weindorfers tower, this would involve a bit of bushbashing, but doesn't look too steep.

Obvious gully to the left of Grandma Baz. Easy down scramble.

From sleepy bay head to mt Amos via Parsons and Dove. Faint white paint marks and cairns help. Much slabbing , mantling, and a few bouldery spots.

The base of the gully is blocked by a large chockstone but above this widens and becomes well defined. Ice screws (45m. ice pitch); slings, pitons; cams. 1. 5m. The chockstone presents some difficulty if not well banked with snow, otherwise easy. 2. 50m. Up the gully, snow with ice bulges. 3. 35m. Continue up the gully to the foot of the two-tier 70m. headwall. Belay in a recess on the left (cams) near the base of a deep-cleft chimney. (From here the line follows a streak of ice up the wall on the right. If this is broken the headwall is inaccessible. The deep-cleft, ice-glazed chimney can be followed to an enormous chockstone, 50m below the plateau rim. Progress from here would be problematical. A rotting abseil sling marks the spot.) 4. 35m. WI 4. Up the streak and the wall above via an airy traverse and steep ice runnels to the steep-banked ledge. On the first ascent a belay crack was excavated, with considerable effort. An elegant pitch. 5. 45m. WI 4+ (85 degrees). The left hand line. Move up left and steeply up the iced column, the angle eases a little towards its top. (On the first ascent the crux move was a mantelshelf onto the sheared-off top of the column, where the ice ran out). Easier to the plateau snowfield.

Several variants

Various direct starts and finishes.

There is also a RH variant.

TBA

1. 20m (- M5)

2. 15m (- M5)

3. 30m (- M5)

Mega line through the middle of the cave

A good practice route for aspiring aid climbers. The original aid version of Seize the Day. Climbs the thin seam directly up the middle of the face on mostly small wires and micro SLCDs. Originally written up as M1 in Bob McMahon's South Esk guide. Probably considerably harder (about C2+) if using clean gear only and ignoring the bolts. Note that nailing on what is now one of the gorge's most classic hard free climbs will probably result in you and your hammer getting evicted from the state and chased back into the 1960's where you belong.

The crack directly through the 2m roof. Yet to see a free ascent.

Project - Hard line a couple of metres left of the arete.

Project - up the thin crackline to slab.

Project - sit start a couple of metres left of the crack. Up through a big undercling to slopers and the slab.

Lower angle slab on the left of the main face.

Right side of bottom face.

Left side of bottom face.

Looks like a traverse either way may be on.

Hard problem with interesting looking finish. Not a lot around the lip.

Line to big jug and into corner.

Project - slab on the right

Project - This desperate little number needs to wait for a cold day. Start on the obvious edge on the lip of the steep section of wall, head up past slopers and sidepulls to top out.

From chossy jugs through bulge

project - the right hand arete

The left hand arete of the boulder. Some one has cleaned some holds.

Project - about 1 metre left of V6 towards left hand end of Illumination Wall.

These next two problems are on the small steep face to the right of the Book Thief Block. This is the Eco-Terrorist Block.

The left hand arete sit start to Eco-Terrorist. Sart left hand on a dimpled sloper on the left hand arete and the right hand on a slopey break low down on the face, punch out and up to finish up Eco-terrorist. Harder than Eco-Terrorist.

Project - Stand start on two small small side pulls, punch up and right to the arete and continue up just left of The Book Thief.

This problem is on the small triangle block just below Badass Wall. Climb up the left arete.

The next line left of "Cool Guys" and right of the corner.

Climb the slab.

Open project - The tall overhanging arete, left of the main face. Gotta have some balls.

The dirty chimney to the right.

Starting on the two sidepulls left of Vitriol, heading straight up. A harder line will go that starts further right leading to the sidepulls.

Up middle of the face downhill.

Project

Project - Thin face right of Limpet. Move left at the top.

Sit start and up onto slab.