Ascents in Victoria by Dave Scarlett

Surprisingly fun! The bulging rock makes the handholds invisible from below, so there's a lot of groping around for good hands, which can make it a little intimidating, especially combined with the steepness of the route. They're definitely there though. Maybe take a cam around BD #0.75 size if you'd like to thoroughly protect the (fairly easy) slab finish.

Nice and long, with a slabby, bolt-protected crux passing the obvious roof. The only runout section is the grade 15 start shared with Blind Sox, after that there's plenty of pro.

Magnificent climbing, and highly unusual for Buffalo. Found the crux (vertical face climbing) fairly straightforward, but the final section (traversing up a dyke with only friction for feet) was quite intimidating, as it is a little runout above the last bolt and there's the potential to hit the ledge below the crux in a fall.

Nice and consistent climbing with a wild finish through the roof. The final bolt seems to be positioned way too far right though, with the most reasonably point to tackle the roof (especially at this grade!) being about a meter left of the bolt.

Only gear needed is 2-3 cams in the hand to fist range for the initial traverse.

Excellent, consistent slab climbing on P1 that keeps you on your toes the whole way, and would be thoroughly worthwhile even only as a single pitch to the lower-off. Fiddly gear, with a full range of nuts (mainly small to micro, with multiple sites being very handy) and some cams, mainly small to micro. Moving right to breach the final overlap at the bolt, only to move back left seemed a bit contrived, but is probably justified given that the more natural line would go through a huge jammed block which looks like it might one day come unjammed.

P2 starts easily, but the traverse right at the first bolt seemed harder than anything on pitch 1, and a sandbag at grade 19.

Led pitch 1 onsight, seconded up into Kestrel instead of P2 after leader escaped into it.

Varied and thoroughly enjoyable. Delicate and crimpy slab moves to start, with the lower crux being just reaching the first bolt. Eases off after the third bolt (but is run out), until the big horizontal crack, where a great hand crack continues to the top, with maybe 6m of grade 16 crack climbing. From the ground it looks like it's all over after the horizontal crack, but this isn't the case! Take finger to hand sized cams and nuts, with a BD #2 or #3 for the horizontal crack.

Wonderfully varied terrain - slab, face climbing, a chimney, and then the super exposed corner crack. Definitely one of the best outings at Arapiles.

GEAR BETA: 2 dubious old carrot bolts on P3. One in the top of the chimney (put a DMM Revolver on it to manage rope drag!) and another about 2m above the roof. Proper bolt with fixed hanger about 6m up P4. The end of pitch 3 and start of pitch 4 will be runout without big gear. A #5 Camalot or #2 Big Bro is ok, #6 Camalot or #3 Big Bro is great.

Took a BD C4 #6 and Big Bros #2 and #3, plus a #4 WC Helium Friend as a test of what could be used in the offwidth sections. Found #6 is actually too small for the start of the crack (after the roof on P3), and then becomes too big when the crack suddenly narrows! I managed to get it in, but it was almost overcammed. A #5 would have been better there. The #4 Friend was too small for the very top of P3 too. Need BD #4 or another #5 instead, then #6 fits P4 when the crack narrows before the bolt.

Very thin on gear. Micro cams useful for both the slab and the arete.

Runout start, with no protection other than a carrot bolt. Although you can get a small-medium cam in way out to the left after the carrot, and then an obvious micro-cam placement in the slab above. The corner crack looks wide from the ground, but doesn't actually need big gear - nothing larger than a #1 Camalot.

Nice, delicate slabbing past the ringbolts, then slightly easier slabbing through the fixed hangers above.

Be sure to take slings - there's little if any other pro available after the 2nd bolt!

Tricky slab moves around the second bolt.

Difficult moves getting up after clipping first bolt, with small cam possible maybe 1m above and right of that bolt, then crux pulling past 2nd bolt on crimps and one poor foot, leading to an easier but delicate finish.

Very nice. A series of jugs all the way up, mostly just a slight stretch apart. Might be more difficult for shorter climbers. Amazing views!

Committing step from the bouldering slab up to the arete, and then delicate moves around the first bolt up to an annoying finish amongst the tree branches. Listed as 14 in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne, and is definitely not a 12.

P1: Brutally sustained, with an early crux just past the (ancient, dubious, unnecessary) bolt. The wide crack is often too big to be practical for cams, and while there is other, smaller, pro, it can be fiddly or sparse. The final mantle move isn't bad, with pro and holds available if you search.

P2: One difficult move to get past the roof, then cruisy, grade 15 climbing to the top. There's plenty of pro under the roof, but above is tricky.

Leaders should be confidant at the grade!

Had a less-experienced climbing partner lead P1, who thought it was very tough for an 11 - especially the starting moves and the (bolt protected) bulge at the top. The 2nd pitch has some fascinating rock features, and you should bring lots of slings, as there are countless chicken-heads and holes than can be threaded. I thought the bolt was unnecessary, as I was able to place two cams (admittedly one being a micro-cam) within 50cm of it!

Warm up. Lovely and cruisy. Had never noticed before just how dodgy the bolt is. Looks like an 8mm (or thinner?) thread with a bolt plate fixed to it!

Tough moves getting through the bolt-protected bulge at the start, then easier slab climbing in the middle, before a slight committing finish. Quite nice.

Bouldery start leads to a pumpy section with plenty of medium cam placements, then a rest ledge and bolt before the crux. It's wishful to think that being tall will make the "reachy" crux any easier.

Very run out. No reliable pro before the rusty carrot bolt, and then not much before the end either. Ended up clipping one of the nearby bolts on Summer Breeze. Interesting bollard moves at the start though. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear or a long sling or cordelette reaching to the Skippy bolts.

Came expecting a flake the whole way, instead found the crack fusing shut and instead leaving a runout slab on fiddly gear! Micro-cams, small nuts and micro nuts indispensable. Easy finish once you reach the final flake. Couldn't see any evidence of the chopped bolt, which was apparently a foot above the top of the flake.

Very tricky moves for the grade on P1 getting up the wide crack to the bolt, and then a very confusing final pitch, where there's sloping holds, poor pro, and no clear line to follow. I went up the right corner, chimneying against the right scarab horn, which was mossy, but at least had decent protection.

Done in two pitches. Led final pitch.

I think this and 'Flake of Fear' at Summerday Valley should switch names. Don't try to place any protection before the bolt - best case you will introduce massive rope drag, and worst case you'll fall, tear the flake off, and not only hit the ground, but also have the now-detached flake land on top of you!

Terrifying climbing up the paper-thin flake, followed by a nice, delicate slab traverse, and then a final loose finger crack to finish, which offers nice, secure finger-locks.

Difficult moves at the top of the crack getting onto the slab, then a good rest once you're above that, very delicate slabbing past the bolt, getting much easier towards the finish.

Balancy and a bit runout through the middle, but not too difficult. Good gear before the roof, though it's at the far right side, so long quickdraws are essential. The roof itself (crux) is jug hauling with poor feet, and the position of the bolt can make for some bad rope drag once you're above it.

Sandbagged, runout, and sustained. Looked like there was gear most of the way up the initial crack, but it'd be difficult to get it in, and then there's a significant runout before the bolt, which included what I felt was the crux, traversing left to the slab under the bolt. Definitely harder than 18 (maybe 20, maybe 19?) and I definitely had no desire to lead this!

Lovely corner climbing on the first pitch, with some tricky laybacking in sections. Lots of loose rock in the bottom of the chimney, so decided stringing pitches 1 and 2 together wasn't a good idea. P3 is the chimneying, which felt a little run out, and thrutchy in parts. Overall probably much more serious at the grade than something like Bard.

Led P1, soloed P2, seconded P3-4 strung together.

Surprisingly good, after I gave it a decent brushing. Somewhat similar crux to Wishful Thinking, but more prolonged, harder, and further from the bolt. (But still very well protected.)

Amazing! Difficult moves just to leave the ground start a grade 18 wall up to the roof, then a good rest before the roof traverse, great heel hook at the end before having to commit to pulling over the lip on reasonable holds and good foot placements. Rested on cam at roof lip.

GEAR: BD 0.4 1m above bolt (use long draw), micro cam in horiz break another 2m up, BD 0.75 to back up roof piton, tight finger size cam (BD 0.3?) at roof lip, then medium nuts and small cams for easy finish.

Gets seriously difficult when you reach the bolt. Obscenely reachy and bouldery moves to gain the poor, mossy ledge above the almost featureless wall containing the bolt, then up, strenuously, on a combination of jugs and crimps. Large horizontal crack below overhang will take a BD #4 cam easily, or a #3 if you find the narrowest sections. Got through the reachy crux cleanly, after backing off and returning to the ledge several times, but then pumped out while approaching the overhang.

P1 crux start with 8m of vertical laybacking on a finger crack flake. Bring lots of finger size cams (BD #0.3-0.4) but place carefully as it is very easy to get then overcammed and stuck. P2 nice flake climbing then slab traverse. If belaying final pitch from chockstone, be sure not to use your big cams in the belay, as they are needed for the P3 crack, which warrants at least doubles in BD #2-3, and at least one #4.

Led P1, P3. Fell once from about 6m up P1.

One swing, then got back on and got through the roof the second time. Need to remember when clipping the pin to keep both strands of the rope on my right hand side, so as not to get tangled in them when beginning the roof traverse!

I thought this would stay dry in and after rain. I thought wrong. Pockets at the top of the initial traverse were seeping and felt like someone had rubbed a wet bar of soap inside them.

Allegedly graded M2 when aided, but that's only if you have an unlimited amount of big gear! The crack became too wide for my #3 Big Bro about 2m before the top, so I ended up going out onto the arete on very thin hook placements.

Felt more like M3 but was apparently originally graded M2 before it was freed. Mostly small to medium nut placements, many of which require a bit of thought, occasional cam placements, and a few (optional) hook and cam hook placements.

Small to medium nuts, small and micro cams, and one each hook and break placement. The crack didn't really seem suited to cam hooks, but ate offset nuts. Bailed off to the right at the horizontal break as the offwidth at the top needs at least 2 BD #4 cams, possibly something even bigger.

Terribly chossy and definitely not worth the two stars given in the guidebook.