Ascents in Victoria as sport by Josh Ellis

Was cool to get back on this as my warm-up 4 years after first red pointing it, man it felt hard back then! Much easier and less polished than I remember but still just as classic! What a grade test-piece!

Warm up!

Felt cruisy today!

Cool V5 on a rope! One go to figure it out, one go to fall off like a punter. Should have sent it got to the "jug" and tried a silly stem when I should have oulled through. Should go next time.

Cool link up! Boogie is the route that just keeps on giving! Thought it might go second go but the dead point I’m doing is a little bit low percentage. I’ll be back!

Went into the first go so confident I was gonna’ send, lined up perfectly for dead point and then somehow still ended up dangling! 🤷‍♀️ Went to lower tier to climb some over stuff as the block was fairly busy, came back up later for round two. Bit tired but still determined, lined up again and somehow the rope kinda’ got tangled round my knee right at the crux, faffed and fell. Tried the move again and same thing happed! Reminder to self: longer draw on the far left bolt otherwise you get tangled!

Felt cruisy with some skin and the right beta! Being too cold to feel my fingers was probably advantageous too!

Bit of a weird start! I feel like the rock is so visually noisy it’s hard to repeat a foot sequence. Thought it might go 2nd crack but the start kinda’ cooked me and I was trashed by the 3rd draw, then it rained! Maybe one day but not really in a rush to get back on it!

Flailed around for like 40 minutes trying to sus a sequence, figured it out still felt absolutely nails. Gave it a red-hot second try anyways, no dice. As I was accepting I’d never get this ever a “local” showed up (Steve I think, cheers Steve 👍 ) and gave me some beta to try. Went up with new beta and fell on the last hard move. New beta made it feel heaps more do able and pleasant! Gave it one more go but with the sun on it and little to no skin left (it’s a skin shedder!) it was pretty desperate! Pretty sure it’ll go next time now and I think I kinda’ enjoyed it even! 😂

Fucking nails!

Couple of cool moves, shame it wasn’t longer!

Similar experience to lots of other routes at Macedon, incredibly hard to read on the onsight, fell off, faffed around with a bunch of impossibly hard sequences until finding the “right” way, making it feel several grades easier. It’s really it’s own style at the hump!

Warm up. Actually quite techy at the top.

Pretty fingery and actually quite good. Probably not the best condies for it today was a bit humid. Only one go as it started raining.

Probably one of the best routes at Macedon! Started on the smaller holds (to the right) at the bottom and avoided the arête to the left at the top for the “original experience” although I clipped all the draws! Not really sure it felt 23 at any point I probably wouldn’t argue with 22 though? Idk lovely route either way!

Warm up lap. Did the “direct” start this time.

Went to get the draws down, thought it’d be a nice rewarm up as it’s a lovely flowey route, climbed it the worst I’ve ever done it, got super pumped! Idk

Already blew the onsight years ago, but bit peeved I didn't get it first go. Sorta' started slippin off on the last "hard" bit and sort'a instinctivly grabbed the draw. Can I blame it on condys?

Breezey second time round, gotta' be the nicest route here I've tried I reckon.

Linked the hard section on the way down on the first go. Clean run second, out of beans by third. Reckon I need one top rope go to dial the moves then go for the lead. Held off as I don’t feel like I can clip the third “independent” draw but I think I just gotta’ go for it.

First go felt impossible with my old beta being probably 10 degrees warmer than last time I tried it! Tried Matthew Follent beta which was definitely better and managed a clean top rope lap, just out of beans and skin by the time I figured it out. Maybe next year! 🤷‍♀️

Bring your steel finger and toes caps for this one! Took a while to figure out, a fair bit of lichen and no chalk to be seen. But actually pretty good climbing. Fairly spicy even with the extra bolt!

Didn’t do it today but done in the past and didn’t log. Terrifying from memory.

Tried this ages ago, so the onsight was already gone. But doubt I would of got it anyway. Pretty sequencey in the middle, fell multiple times figuring it out.

Came down from my first go, pulled the rope and straight back on as it was home time.

Didn’t do it today but done in the past and didn’t log.

Classic unsend/resend combo. 😂

Didn’t do it today but done in the past and didn’t log.

Nice to put this one away! Not nothing though, weird combination of powerful/techy.

Had ambitions to do “Velvet Goldmine” but after a shaky warmup on “Terminal Insomnia” I wasn’t really up for it. Decided to retry the moves on this as Ben had it up. Did all the moves which was nice, but didn’t have a red point burn, was feeling too shaky.

Actually felt pretty comfortable with the right beta.

Nearly went second attempt, but foot slipped down low.

But if a pumpy warmup! Very satisfying onsight, got pretty close to pumping off!

Was gonna’ try for the onny but someone was on it while I was belaying next door. Fun route with some cool sequences down low.

Went up twice, once to put the draws on for Caroline Chang, then again to clean. Wish I hadn’t! Got totally flash pumped on the onsight found a seeping pocket, rope fell down a hole, etc. The second go didn’t feel any more enjoyable tbh! No idea why this one gets the stars, least favourite route at “VDL”.

Not today but done in the past.

Bouldery starts are the go here!

Fun boulder to start!

Not today, but defo done in the past.

Nice route with a spicy finish. Great on-site by Caroline Chang! 🤟

Bloody shocker of a day for me by this point, fell off the 21, couldn’t do the dyno on the 26 and then fell off this. Cool moves but absolute bag of sand, unless I’m missing something it felt maybe a grade “easier” then the 26!

Stuck the bottom boulder second try but the dyno is just so unlikely for me. I defo got closer, but it took like 100x tries and way to much skin. Fair play to Chris Martinez sticking it first try!

Totally missed the key hold through the crux, did some IFC world championships bouldering 360 dyno beta instead, obviously fell off! Lowered to the ground when I spotted the hold and did the rest. 🤦‍♂️ Great flash by Caroline Chang

Crux is getting on the route without falling into the void!

Spicy finish I thought, Caroline Chang made it look easy though!

Not sure that crux was a 100% move!