Routes in Melbourne and Surrounds for selected grade

Up arete without using the large 'ledge' below.

SDS wide easy corner crack

Up the obvious nose, seems like it could be slightly precarious until you factor in all the jugs above.

Up the corner finger crack, good holds abound - no struggle here

The less than vertical slabs are a good warm up spot, could be some problems

Start at R edge of face. Up. 2BR. Solo FA

R of PFC, take arête on lose holds. 2BR. BB

Crack to L of Slated. Dirty and mossy.

As name suggests. keep to E face. Original guide states 7BR, but only 4BR found on inspection. DBB

Slabby corner to R of Crusty, the bulge. BR. DB

face R of corner. BR. BB

Up to and up shallow corner at L end (uphill) of face. BR. BB. Now totally overgrown with moss and very dirty.

S face of top R boulder, start between the black stumps. 2BR. BB.

Up, Right, Cross ledge and around overhang on next buttress to right. 2BR. BB

L arête of pinnacle

Up the center of the N face of the boulder to the R. BR. BB

Start as for DDE but immediately go up R to finish up top of Xanthorroea Pinnacle LHV. 2BR. DBB

2m R Endomorph. From terrace either stay right of Endomorph or continue as for Endomorph. 3BR. BB

The slabby section below the arete, starting at lowest point. Up arête then corner. 4BR. BB

Scramble to the next set of pinnacles across from The Pinnacle traverse. Rope down the crack in the overhanging wall to the level of the lowest ledge on the next pinnacle, just above the water. Pendullum onto it. Follow the groove directly up the wall. Return either over the seaward edge of the pinnacle, then up and over the boulder bridge and up to the R wall. If the tide is in however, move down the face between the pinnacles and prussic out.

Climbs the 1m wide pillar on the far left when facing the cliffs, with Pulpit rock to the right.

Start on the 1st pinnacle reached on the beach from the carpark at a crack on the side facing Pulpit Rock. The crack.

The edge of a thin arête at the back of seth zawn, using the edge and north face.

At lowest tier take the steep wall up to through overhang. At the back of the ledge navigate around follage and take the corner to continue up.

Where the 2nd tier ends climb up to meet a diagonal ramp. Head to a small ledge then around the overhang and up.

Dirty - because it was never cleaned!

Start: Start as for CB.

The filthy R side of the block including a yucky chimney. Slab finish.

Start: Start 1m R of WotE.

As for WBR, then move to and up arete

As for TSNaE. Finish up arete

Up slab on rock 10 m R of LS. No Pro. Huge old rusty belay bolt on top.

L of Weasel, climb middle of slab. High runner off to the Right.

Follow diagonal on W face, starting at bottom left.

L edge of slab. Bridge it. BR.

Up slab and through horizontal break 2m R of OOR.

Left face of corner to thin crack then left and up ramp

Corner then arête 20m R, after wall degenerates and regenerates.

The V groove 12m R of Jumpjack Great pro.

Layback corner 5m R of JaS. L side of gully.

Continue along 4wd track. It turns S again. The next climbs are on a boulder just L of track. On N side, up the diagonal crack.

From SE corner go up and L to top.

Crack 1 m L of IK

Mouth of Chimney then crack.

Starts as for Primordial and follows the slightly right-leading line easily to top.

2m R of Sea Scape.

L of Steps, up diagonal seam.

Dogleg crack R of RMS.

50 m Down and E from Cloud 9 is an orange boulder. 50m across the hill from this is a large dead gum tree. 20m S is an erosion gully. On S wall of gully is a narrow crack in a shallow corner. If you actually went to the trouble of finding this climb you might as well go up it.

There is another group of boulders further uphill. Go up wall from NW corner to roof. Hand traverse R. From ledge go up L face.

The corner

Chimney and corner crack on North of rock

The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Double RB belay.

Start on the right hand side of the slab, up past 2 FH to DRB anchor.

Half way up the L wall of the descent gully behind the main face there is square cut crack line. Traverse across the slab to the crack and up it.

Buitiful face climbing on the arete just right of B.P.M

Main Grove/crack that splits the face, surprisingly good climbing.

Next crack 2m right just left of main large grove. crack then face.

Scary for the grade. The L leading line 6m R of LBW. The line to the halfway ledges. Straight up the the flakes, and past these with caution and dubious protection to a large ledge.

Continue on 100m after Cave slab and you'll get to an easier wall.

1. 26m Up with passing the overhang and to a stance above.

2. 27m On to the top

Starts 13m R of Mesopotamia under where a boulder leans against a flake. 1. (35) Up to the boulder. Pass interesting holes, up over buldge, then left to the diagonal ledge. (1 FH). 2.(45m) Keep going up and L till you merge with Mesopotamia.

This route is at the top, or back of the crag. Something to fill in the day while putting off the walk back down. Start in the cave at the rear of the pinnacle immediately north of the Regrettably Lammentable pinnacle. Bridge out of the cave and climb the crack to the top. Abseil needed to get of the pinnacle.

Start on the R side of the 4th buttress 150m R of Misty Mountain Hop. This has an orange roof low down.

1. 20m 3m up the narrow gully between the buttresses, then up the L wall to the overhang. Follow the crack, then step L up onto the large ledge.

2. 30m Up the easy slab to a ledge.

3. 48m Up and L onto the next slab. Keep R of the sword grass and climb the wall to the tree.

4. Up the narrowing slab to the greasy ledge.

5. Up to the top of the pinnacle. Abseil 15m down the back.

An excellent climb up the R hand arete of the outcrop. Start by scrambling up the short L facing corner to a ledge below the arete at roof height.

1. 20m Enjoyable climbing up the arete to a big ledge.

2. 10m Step L and climb the wall to the top of the pinnacle. Rappel off.

This route has some safety to it, being in a little groove and facing across-ways from the slab. It is very short as well so falls aren't that bad, this boulder goes up right side which is also the lower end.

Comes up from the back side, where the cracked piece is, then up and over the top of the boulder.

A route starting from the bottom of a rock located underneath the boulder and finishing on the top/end of the boulder after ascending at a diagonal.

This boulder is just to the right of No.3 on the other side of the knobby outcrop. The holds on this side are less smooth allowing for a better grip but is longer and more challenging.

1. 30m (10) Start up the slab, some of the protection is poor. Belay from a vertical crack with foliage and dead tree. Good stance behind the tree.

2. 40m (9) Keep going up, climb a small overlap and head up to the large vertical crack. Belay from below the large overlap.

3. 20m (10) From the belay pull up and over the overlap and follow the crack up. Belay options; either from a tree at the start of Traverse of the Gods or head up another 10m to a small ledge with trees.

4. 30m (6) Follow the cracks and to the top.

Described in the 1988 guide as an excellent outing.

1. 34m (8) As for the first pitch of Central Buttress.

2. 12m (9) As for Divect pitch 2.

3. 35m Up

4. 35m Veer rightwards then up on clean rock 4a) 30m (14) Or, climb the slab directly above as for Divect Direct Finish

Just R of FG. Up easily then the short wide crack, continue to the overhang/diagonal, traverse R and belay.

Part way up the corner, R along obvious line to V cleft. Up via this.

Corner 30m L of Green Thumb.

Straight up the crack